Just won an 80 series at auction. Looking for advice.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

DLeggett

DLeggett

Joined
Jun 2, 2025
Threads
3
Messages
14
Location
Orlando, FL
Website
www.dml.gallery
Hello everyone! I just won this 1985 cruiser at auction for $7900 (which I was not expecting 😂).

Here’s the auction:
https://carsandbids.com/.../1995-toyota-land-cruiser...

It has triple locking diffs and seems largely in good condition buy does have some flaws:
Odometer not working.
Fuel gauge not working.
Needs front brake replace.
Some wheels missing lugs.

I just bought myself a GX 470 to daily + take on some road trips, and I can only keep one car. This cruiser is all the way out in California but I have no problem driving it back. Once it’s back i could either sell it and keep the GX or sell the GX and keep this.

What do you guys think it’s worth? Did I get a good deal or should I back out and pay 400 dollars in fees.
Any advice for driving it back? Common issues? Any information is appreciated.

Thanks everyone! Sorry if this is not posted in the right place.

gEGHv.jpg


vf8PU.jpg
 
Very nice looking Cruiser there. Drive slow and stop and see what there is to see.
 
Looks good to me. As others' have said, go over anything mechanical.

Your washer hose is disconnected. Since you are in Florida, clean, prime and paint anything metal, and then use something like fluid film religiously.
1750120325911.png
 
I’m going to start to invoke a $25K rule just like E30 M3 BMW’s did prior to the price explosion on the 1stGen M3’s.

You will burn $25K - either from a former owner who did all parts or a sold 80% — or buy @ $8K & burn $12K ++ to get what a $25K FZJ80 has already had done recently.
 
LINUS said:
I’m going to start to invoke a $25K rule just like E30 M3 BMW’s did prior to the price explosion on the 1stGen M3’s.

You will burn $25K - either from a former owner who did all parts or a sold 80% — or buy @ $8K & burn $12K ++ to get what a $25K FZJ80 has already had done recently.
Click to expand...
Yes, there is some equation like that - but with a qualifier for the skill an experience of the buyer.
 
Transfer the vehicle to me and I'll pay the $400.;)

If you decide to keep it, first check all fluids before a long drive across country, if any question about their condition replace all the fluids including the gear boxes (front/rear diffs and transfer case), transmission, engine oil, coolant, ---. Replace air filter and oil filter of course (Toyota parts), check air pressure in the tires and air them up to 36-37 psi cold (before being driven). IME that's the sweet spot for highway driving for most tires that are close to the OEM size.

Very important to grease ALL the driveshaft U-joints (4) and slip yolks (2), and add (Moly fortified) grease as needed to the steering knuckles before a long drive. IME those are some of the most neglected maintenance items.

If you have any questions how to do any of those ask the forum before you head out.

Do NOT expect your average Quickie lube shop to do any of that correctly except maybe the oil change.
 
Last edited:
LINUS said:
I’m going to start to invoke a $25K rule just like E30 M3 BMW’s did prior to the price explosion on the 1stGen M3’s.

You will burn $25K - either from a former owner who did all parts or a sold 80% — or buy @ $8K & burn $12K ++ to get what a $25K FZJ80 has already had done recently.
Click to expand...
That is the frigging truth, man... at least from my personal experience... lol.
 
Kernal said:
Transfer the vehicle to me and I'll pay the $400.;)

If you decide to keep it, first check all fluids before a long drive across country, if any question about their condition replace all the fluids including the gear boxes (front/rear diffs and transfer case), transmission, engine oil, coolant, ---. Replace air filter and oil filter of course (Toyota parts), check air pressure in the tires and air them up to 36-37 psi cold (before being driven). IME that's the sweet spot for highway driving for most tires that are close to the OEM size.

Very important to grease ALL the driveshaft U-joints (4) and slip yolks (2), and add (Moly fortified) grease as needed to the steering knuckles before a long drive. IME those are some of the most neglected maintenance items.

If you have any questions how to do any of those ask the forum before you head out.

Do NOT expect your average Quickie lube shop to do any of that correctly except maybe the oil change.
Click to expand...
Shot you a PM
 
Kernal said:
Transfer the vehicle to me and I'll pay the $400.;)

If you decide to keep it, first check all fluids before a long drive across country, if any question about their condition replace all the fluids including the gear boxes (front/rear diffs and transfer case), transmission, engine oil, coolant, ---. Replace air filter and oil filter of course (Toyota parts), check air pressure in the tires and air them up to 36-37 psi cold (before being driven). IME that's the sweet spot for highway driving for most tires that are close to the OEM size.

Very important to grease ALL the driveshaft U-joints (4) and slip yolks (2), and add (Moly fortified) grease as needed to the steering knuckles before a long drive. IME those are some of the most neglected maintenance items.

If you have any questions how to do any of those ask the forum before you head out.

Do NOT expect your average Quickie lube shop to do any of that correctly except maybe the oil change.
Click to expand...
Wow, that comment caught my attention. 36-37 psi? Is that good for a new set of Michelin LTXs 275-70-16? I have been running them at 32 around town but am about to set off on a 1,700 mile trip to Denver.
 
It looks like you did pretty decent. It's would consider shipping too. I was all set to fly to Texas and drive one back to Georgia, just to find Viceroy would ship it for $725. Needless to say, I shipped it here. I would look into it.
 
Just noticed that the odometer reading in 12/2010 was recorded by Carfax as 210,014 and the current mileage is listed at 210,100,
but then the video and photos also show 210,014 miles?? So has the vehicle been sitting for 15 years or has the odometer been broken/disconnected for 15 years, or has the instrument cluster been replaced or the Odometer turned back, or, or, or ---???

Something doesn't add up.

Engine sounds a bit tickety and the oil pressure was very low on what looked like a cold start-up, it got better by the end of the video (have to slow it down to see the gauges). Appears to have a cheapo "white box" oil filter.

Looked closer at all the photos: it's been repainted, maybe a quickie job, looks like body damage in a few places (?Right side),hood paint
doesn't seem to match the rest. Rear hatch emblem cracked

Interior seats redone with ?cheap ventilated leather covers.
Missing center console lid.
Shifter leather missing/removed
Steering wheel leather likely in bad shape (cheapo cover)

Engine (or head) may have been removed at some point, but at least one lifting hook is missing??
Ground strap to the firewall is in the wrong place.
PHH has been bypassed
At least one missing bolt for the valve cover.
Blue spray paint on the throttle body
Front rotors scored badly
Leaking fluid on a front wheel well (brakes or knuckles??)


So IMHO what seems like a good deal may or may not be, won't know until someone checks it over very closely.

Always a big risk buying a vehicle sight unseen and without an inspection, biggest question is where has it
been sitting (and why) for the last 15 years??


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Question from above not related to the vehicle:

@BTLSHP asked: Is that (PSI) good for a new set of Michelin LTXs 275-70-16

I've run 36-37psi (cold) in multiple P265-75-R16 Michelin tires, the no-longer available passenger load Michelin CrossTerrain SUV (two sets) which had a max recommended pressure of 35psi. Now running the newer Michelin SL rated (Standard Load) Defender LTX 265-75-R16 that has a max recommended pressure of 44psi, I run them around 37psi cold.

If you're running a Light Truck rated tire (stiffer sidewall than SL rated tires) the ride might be too harsh with the higher pressure.

I once tried 32 psi in my P rated (SL) tires (not LT Load) and lost a couple MPG compared to the higher pressure (36 cold).
 
Last edited:
BTLSHP said:
Wow, that comment caught my attention. 36-37 psi? Is that good for a new set of Michelin LTXs 275-70-16? I have been running them at 32 around town but am about to set off on a 1,700 mile trip to Denver.
Click to expand...

Do a chalk test.

Google it. Every tire/truck combo is gonna be different.

I typically use 32-35 as a baseline, adjust from there.
32 will be more comfortable, maybe a little less sharp steering wise.
36 will steer better, but feel more bumps
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

NoahWts
Best Preventative maintenance for an 80 series?
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
robnicko
R
c2dfj45
Just another 80 series diesel swap....
2 3
Replies
57
Views
6K
c2dfj45
c2dfj45
roaminglost
80-Series won’t track straight
2 3
Replies
53
Views
3K
Broski
Broski
JawgaFlyGuy
  • Question Question
80 Series What are these screws for?
Replies
2
Views
418
JawgaFlyGuy
JawgaFlyGuy

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom