Just get her drivable (4 Viewers)

[J Mack]

People will lose their minds.

So...........
Do you go in dry or lube??

 

[PabloCruise]

Start with the basics. Confirm you have fuel and spark. Confirm the valves are close to spec.

A machine shop valve job would just mean they lapped the valves and installed the shims. Since you had the camshaft out, it would be you who set the initial valve clearances. If you didn't do that, use the figures below to set it when you have it at TDC and then rotate 360deg. to set the other valves.

Just for posterity sake, confirm you are in correct time and not out a tooth or two. Put the flywheel on the BB so the motor should be at TDC. Confirm the distributor is pointed towards #4 as shown below. The first 2 valves from the front should be closed and the gap close to the spec. As long as they're closed at TDC you should be good to start it even if they are not exactly in spec.

You can further confirm that you are at TDC by removing #1 plug and inserting a long screwdriver or similar into the plug hole, you should almost immediately hit the top of the piston. If all that lines up then your ignition timing is definitely good enough to get it to start so long as there are fuel and spark.

It's possible that the TBI flooded the pistons and there is too much fuel to start it, which is why you're seeing it weeping out the exhaust gasket. Disconnect the TBI injectors. Remove the plugs and let it dry out a bit. Put the plugs back in but leave the injectors disconnected. Try to start it with some ether and see if you're getting it to kick over.


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Is the BB = TDC? Or the line? One of those represents 7 degrees BTDC.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks for that!^

I went through and triple checked.
-Timing
-Adjusted valves
-JB Weld manifold crack
-Added water/coolant
-Rotated it all by hand to make sure it was all spinning

And it cranked and runs and sounds great!

However, it got SUPER hot within 3 minutes, like I watched the temp gauge move quickly from cold to hot and it was boiling and steaming all over, but no steam from exhaust pipe, so that is good

I did drain all the coolant out of the block, so maybe its got some air pockets?.....I'll be working through that and will report back

How is the radiator in this Pig?

 

[PabloCruise]

So...........
Do you go in dry or lube??

With proper technique, the hole will be lubed.
You gots to queue up the Barry White!
Oh yeah...

 

[onemanarmy]

Radiator is clean internal and external. No leaks and now fresh 50/50.
.
Burped the coolant a bunch and changed the oil and went for a drive.
.
3 miles in at 60 mph (I replicated the same route and speed before the HG replacement) and it's doing the exact same thing. To the T. Overheating.
.
It'll sit all day at idle and I tried to hold it at an elevated RPM for a while and it runs fine. First tick mark on the temp gauge.
.
Within 3 miles of highway, it's overheating and blowing steam/coolant out of the overflow tank.
.
No oil and water mixing anywhere. No steam or smoke from tailpipe. Other than the overheating, this 2F cranks at the bump of the key, doesn't smoke, doesn't use oil, and pulls hard up to 65mph
I'm stumped.

 

[bobm]

Pull the T stat. See what happens

 

[onemanarmy]

Haven't run a thermostat in 3 years. Pulled it along time ago thinking that was the cause of the overheating.

No thermostat now.

 

[J Mack]

Haven't run a thermostat in 3 years.

Feel the tanks on your radiator, one should be quite a bit cooler than the other..
If not you have a circulation problem either bad water pump or plugged radiator...