Just Broke Wheel Stud - How Easy To Replace?

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Went to rotate tires on the new to us '99 LX. Started at DS rear. 2 nuts were really snug, I was debating whether to continue or to send it off to a shop on Monday, I hate not being able to do stuff so I tried again and snapped one off - mother of pearl! :mad:

So do continue on the other one, and risk breaking that one off? Or leave 4 on and send it off out on Monday?
 
If they are snapping it indicates they are either cross threaded or over torqued. I would anticipate replacing more than one for piece of mind. If they snap off with a wrench they might snap off while driving. And if one is trashed I would be suspect of the others.
 
Sounds like this happens a lot to people.

I am not sure if the change to 5 studs was better for us? Oh well, that ship has sailed, I own a 100/470 now.

NAPA had some replacements, not cheap! $9/stud, $5 per lug nut.

Link from FAQ: How-To change a broken lug.
 
No wonder they are over-torqued if you let the tire-shop do it. Many of the boys on the floor have no idea how to torque correctly. And if a wheel falls off, they'll be sued, so the torque to death.
If you don't know personally that the guy knows how, ask them to let you do it yourself, and then drive a mile or two and do it again. (If they are not over-tightened, they will allways be too loose after a mile or five). That way your studs will last as long as the rest of the truck.
Or you can ask them to torque manually, and pay the extra 5 $ for the extra 5 mins.
 
WTF with the 2 different styles of lug nuts?
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1449960545.348948.webp
 
Just replaced 3 studs. All in the rear. It's easy in the rear luckily. One tip, if rotor is hard to get off put a bolt into the small threaded hole and that will back it off.

In my case local tire shop destroyed 2 regular lug nuts and destroyed a locking lug nut. Idiots.
 
Looks like I have one of those odd-balls at each corner.

Some one ditched the wheel locks at some point and replaced them w/ different lugs. I'm about to ditch mine.

Did your spare tire lowering assembly require a special tip instead of the usual brown hook? Mine requires a similar styled locking lug nut key to get the tire down.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1449984235.023031.webp
 
Some one ditched the wheel locks at some point and replaced them w/ different lugs. I'm about to ditch mine.

Did your spare tire lowering assembly require a special tip instead of the usual brown hook? Mine requires a similar styled locking lug nut key to get the tire down.View attachment 1175511

Yep, the spare lowering mechanism is keyed. Key was in the tool kit! Even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes...
 
No wonder they are over-torqued if you let the tire-shop do it. Many of the boys on the floor have no idea how to torque correctly. And if a wheel falls off, they'll be sued, so the torque to death.
If you don't know personally that the guy knows how, ask them to let you do it yourself, and then drive a mile or two and do it again. (If they are not over-tightened, they will allways be too loose after a mile or five). That way your studs will last as long as the rest of the truck.
Or you can ask them to torque manually, and pay the extra 5 $ for the extra 5 mins.
Spot on as usual uHu.

I've had tire shops; damage while lifting, bust lugs, improperly balance, damage lugs & wheel (aligning) holes.

Number one reason lug bolts broke off my vehicle's was from cross threading, all because they didn't start threading by hand.

I now only go to shops that allow me in bay area while they work. While keep and eye on tech I check brakes, axles, boots and wheel well area. Additionally I put a thin coat of marine grease on hubs at base of lug bolts and wheel contact points.

My local Discount Tire has retrained the techs on how to lift our 100's and too always hand start all lugs. Additional they now hand tighten at least two opposing lugs all the way in, this is to line up wheels on hub. This helps to reduce damaging wheel lug holes, which is important for wheel alignment on hub. Also they use a two step star pattern to torque, reduce chance of warping hubs & wheel.

One friend of mine even brings in his own impact socket for proper fitment, reduces damage to lugs. To late for my lugs.
 
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My understanding is that if any oil gets on the threads yo can potentially over tighten if you go to torque spec.

Mine as well. You want to read some strong opinions, just look up "torque specs + anti-seize"
 
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