Just bought a 2000 LC - big problems

[hickuptruck]

Pics. Post em up here and we'll tell you how to proceed.

Master cylinder, you're looking at $2500. Don't put $2500 into a rotting pile. That's just not smart.

 

[Usterzai]

I'd say you have every right to be bitter, it's a s***ty situation. Take some photos of the issues and post them, what appears horrible to you may be run of the mill levels of rust for those of us up north. While ugly underneath, it may still give you years of service.

Exactly what he said, a lot of us are driving 100's form northeast that have plenty of life left. If it is not too bad maybe fluid film/Krown or something like that can slow it down.

 

[OwnerCS]

Share some pictures. It many not be that bad. There are a lot of 100 series running around in the north without issues. Hopefully, you can do (or learn to do) a lot of the work yourself.

Tacomas can be a problem with frame rot in the case where a previous owner covered up a rusty frame with undercoating. Later the owner finds severe damage.

 

[Swampdawg1]

Ouch. As a 2000 UZJ owner I am aghast. I hope you did not buy it as a DD but wish you luck. I love my truck but at some point I know it will have to be retired.
As I was reading this I was thinking there would be the usual used car 30 day warranty but it sounds as though there was not?

No, it seems there was no 30-day warranty. And I did buy it as a DD but really just for fun. I have a 2007 Tundra with 130K miles and I was really hoping to split the miles between them so the Tundra would last longer and I would have a fun LC that I have wanted for a long time to drive as well.

 

[Swampdawg1]

Share some pictures. It many not be that bad. There are a lot of 100 series running around in the north without issues. Hopefully, you can do (or learn to do) a lot of the work yourself.

Tacomas can be a problem with frame rot in the case where a previous owner covered up a rusty frame with undercoating. Later the owner finds severe damage.

View attachment 2257455

Now that is truly terrifying. I will try to get some pics and post them after work today.

 

[abuck99]

Go to Carmax and trade it for anything you can and try to recover some $$. On these trucks you need to do your homework, be patient with your search, have some mechanical competency, willingness to DIY or deep pockets to pay a mechanic.

I h8 hearing buying experiences like these, but they are mostly avoidable by applying some discipline. There are several states where you should avoid buying a car with owner history from and Illinois is high on the list (along with OH,PA,NY,MA,VT,ME,NJ,WI. and a few others) as you have learned; they get expensive quickly- even for DIY.

If you don't plan to, or have the inclination to do your own work, then you'll want to start by finding a truck that has ownership history in the south, southwest, or west that and has under 150k miles-period. You'll pay$15k-20k+. Carfax will help you see a quick history where it was registered- doesn't help much with actual maintenance. Even then, a vehicle will require some baselining (so budget for that) but you won't have severely corroded expensive components to work through and replace in the near term. Corroded fasteners and components are the bane of service techs, and you will pay more labor & parts on a rust belt rig.

Expect/anticipate that dealers seldom if ever do anything to a used vehicle beyond a visual inspection and an oil change when they come in.

Lean on us to help you assess potential buys here:

Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here

Ask your questions here about buying and selling 100 series Cruisers. - What years are better? - What features changed? - How much should I pay for this rig? - How much should I sell my truck for? Slee's guide to year-by-year changes to the 100 series...

forum.ih8mud.com

And re-read this from the FAQ a few times and learn how to inspect a 100series before you buy it.

100 Series Newbie Guide - Slee Off Road

Our Newbie Guide for the 80 Series Land Cruiser proven very popular, so we decided to compile one for the 100 series as well.

sleeoffroad.com

 

[jlm43]

I feel the pain. Being in the northeast, rust is a killer for sure. I had to go to FL to get one without rust.

What are the rest of the details of the transaction though? Before we give "internet advice", we should know the full story. You mentioned that you drove to MS to pick it up, did you pay in full before arriving at the dealership? What was the purchase price? Did you take a test drive before signing anything?

If the body and interior are excellent, but the shock was already detached from the frame from rust when you picked it up, you only paid $1,500, and signed an "as is" document, I would tend to think that the dealer did nothing wrong. On the other hand, if it was misrepresented, you paid $9,000 for it, and sold as "safe to drive and inspection worthy" with a temporary registration tag, then it should be on the dealer as they lied about the condition and you should definitely seek legal advice. But that's just two of the MANY scenarios that could have played out.

But like others have said, some pictures of the undercarriage would help us get an idea on what you're dealing with.

Best of luck with all of this. It's not something that anyone wants to go through.

 

[Swampdawg1]

I feel the pain. Being in the northeast, rust is a killer for sure. I had to go to FL to get one without rust.

What are the rest of the details of the transaction though? Before we give "internet advice", we should know the full story. You mentioned that you drove to MS to pick it up, did you pay in full before arriving at the dealership? What was the purchase price? Did you take a test drive before signing anything?

If the body and interior are excellent, but the shock was already detached from the frame from rust when you picked it up, you only paid $1,500, and signed an "as is" document, I would tend to think that the dealer did nothing wrong. On the other hand, if it was misrepresented, you paid $9,000 for it, and sold as "safe to drive and inspection worthy" with a temporary registration tag, then it should be on the dealer as they lied about the condition and you should definitely seek legal advice. But that's just two of the MANY scenarios that could have played out.

But like others have said, some pictures of the undercarriage would help us get an idea on what you're dealing with.

Best of luck with all of this. It's not something that anyone wants to go through.

Yes, I drove to MS to get the car. The dealership actually met me halfway with the LC on a flat bed, so I was never at the dealership. Unfortunately it looks like there is an "As Is" box checked on the window sticker. I did test drive it before buying and it seemed fine. It did fine on the drive from MS back to BR as well. The body and interior are in very good condition. There was never any mention of all the flaws with the vehicle, but after speaking with a representative from the MS AG's office, used car dealers are not required to disclose any of this type of information.

I'm sad to say that I paid $7,500 for it. It was listed at $8,900. At this point I have not even registered the vehicle here as I will then have to pay an 11% tax on it.

 

[bucfl]

Pics?

 

[jlm43]

Yes, I drove to MS to get the car. The dealership actually met me halfway with the LC on a flat bed, so I was never at the dealership. Unfortunately it looks like there is an "As Is" box checked on the window sticker. I did test drive it before buying and it seemed fine. It did fine on the drive from MS back to BR as well. The body and interior are in very good condition. There was never any mention of all the flaws with the vehicle, but after speaking with a representative from the MS AG's office, used car dealers are not required to disclose any of this type of information.

I'm sad to say that I paid $7,500 for it. It was listed at $8,900. At this point I have not even registered the vehicle here as I will then have to pay an 11% tax on it.

Ouch! I'm sorry to hear that. Ya, that's definitely the dealer being unethical. Unfortunately, ethics and car sales don't usually go together.

 

[jLB]

Ethical used car dealer? I don't think that I've met one of those yet.

I'm sorry to hear about your dilemma, but it does illustrate the importance of checking out a 20 year old vehicle, before you hand over your money. I doubt that you'll find a way, to be made 100% whole, but I hope you manage to recoup some of your losses.

There were a number of tools available that should've set off red flags

Toyota/Lexus Owner website - Service history and where it "lived"​

CarFax or equivalent - service/accident/damage history, and where it "lived"​

PPI by mechanic (or local 'mud member)​

Asking for undercarriage pictures from the dealer or inspecting before they pulled it off of the flatbed.​

 

[2020 Rocks]

As I see it, you have two options:

A. Dump it and salvage whatever money you can. Possibly trade in both it and your Tundra for a vehicle that will be ideal for you. Make sure replacement vehicle is inspected by a quality mechanic.

B. Except that you are now the proud new owner of a project vehicle and an opportunity to learn how to turn a wrench. You are in the south, perhaps your mechanic has been spoiled and not seen the likes of Midwest rust on a vehicle. Post pictures, it may not be as bad as he makes it out be.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I echo what everyone else is saying: Post some pics - us northern fools runs some awfully rusty ones up here and our mechanics just expect that most brake/gas lines will need replacement and most expose bolts will need to be drilled out.

If you aren't handy with a wrench and not willing to (or have time to) deal with a 20 year old truck - I would cut this one loose and look for a newer rust free LC or buy a newer 4Runner. Almost everyone has to dump a giant load of money into their 100s - they either buy a well maintained one for big dollar or spend on maintenance after they buy a cheap one like I did.

As for the $hitty experience - that is just how most used car dealers seem to operate unfortunately. Many used car dealerships don't even allow an independent pre-purchase inspection. Our beloved 100s are now in the price range where a lot of ppl don't find it cost effective to maintain them properly, so most of the used ones are behind on a lot of maintenance.

Best of luck!

 

[dace voit]

Bummer. That dealer knew what they had. They suck.

Some states have laws the require the vehicle to be safe in order for it to be sold by a dealer or broker. Rusted brake lines are not safe. That said, you've probably already checked this out.

Fixing the brake lines and trading it in might be your best option if you don't just want to walk away from it. That or repair and sale with full disclosure. Someone would likely buy a running truck for $1-2k and a daily beater. Another option would be to part it out. If the body and interior are in really good shape, you will at least get some of your money back out of it. Parting can be a pain though.

 

[Lester did that]

Oh man I feel for you. I live in a rusty area and unfortunately a vehicle with that age can be a horror if the previous owner/owners never did any sort of rust preventative measures or maintenance. 99.7% of owners never do because most folks don't own a vehicle for more than 5 years so long term maintenance is just a waste. The reality is it is a waste if you are the normal person that will toss a car at 100k because it has "high miles". If the rear shock fell off because it broke away because of a rot that sounds bad. No picture needed. Brake lines rust and the ebrake cable will do the same after 20 years in a salty environment. Brake boosters fail at some point as well. Perhaps the previous owner really took Toyotas we build a cruiser to last 25 years a little too serious.

I am not you but this is what I would do. Up here a lot of states have a lemon law. In a lot of cases it will override the As Is box on the contract up to 30 days but usually 15 days. Especially if you made the purchase from a licensed car dealer. (ehhh im sure this law is there because of people in your situation) Auctions are buyer beware. You can do a quick search on the internet about the local laws. Document everything. Use a paper trail with this! Emails or text messages. Do this as soon as possible and do not threaten them with litigation, they will have every right to tell they are stopping all communications with you and give you their lawyers contact info. Be very very polite. Remember they know all these laws and the time frames involved. They want to delay you until any statu of limitation expires. Too many of used car dealers are snakes and you need to be just a little bit smarter than they are with this stuff. A reputable dealer would not sell that vehicle with out full disclosure spelled out in the contract. If they let you drive off the lot and that cruiser was not safe to drive you might have a strong case in court. Find another snake aka a lawyer. Might be a slam dunk case for them and not cost much to litigate.

One last thought. How bad is it really? Have that guy that likes old toyotas take a look at it and come up with a plan. What must be fixed right now so I don't die or kill anyone? What really needs to be fixed so its just reliable and does not leave me stranded? Things that should be addressed to avoid future problems. And of course the cost. If its under 3k might be doable. I don't believe your mechanically inept. Probably just never did it before. I bet you can do a portion of the work yourself just get good mechanic gloves to save your knuckles There is so much help and info here. Heck most people on here are not professional mechanics but figure it out. I hope you stumbled onto headache that becomes a great useful hobby. Worst case you got bitten by a snake once and it will never happen again best case it can be fixed and you learn your way around the inner workings of your rig.

 

[ton504]

Thanks, I may take it to a guy down the street who loves working on old Toyotas

I too love working on Toyota/Lexus but I'm not touching one with cancerous rust. Good luck to ya.

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Hate to hear this...definitely a crappy situation and the dealer likely knew the condition and still gouged you on the price. Post up pics when you can and post the dirty dealership's name so that other potential buyers can be aware.

 

[gamecock2009]

Hi All,

New here as I just bought a 2000 LC with 200K miles a week and a half ago. I was really excited to get it and drove to Mississippi to buy the vehicle. Naturally, I did not check it over very well before purchasing, foolishly believing that it had been through the dealer's service department and checked out.

The car spent its life in Illinois, so rust underneath. When I got it back home I noticed the following:

- Moonroof broken
- Tailpipe between CC and muffler cracked in half
- One of the rear shocks was just hanging as it broke from the rusty connection
- Hood won't open
- Parking brake stuck

I am pretty irritated at this point. I only drove it a few times, and within 5 days, the brake line ruptured and stranded me. After having it towed to a mechanic, he tells me that the brake and fuel lines are all bad and need to be replaced. He also says that the master cylinder is likely in need of replacement. On top of this, he says the rust is so bad that he worries about the long-term stability of the frame. He recommended I seek a refund. Alas, the dealership was not willing to do this for me.

I am not a handy person with vehicles so I can't do a lot of repairs on my own. At this point should I just look to sell it with all the issues disclosed and see if someone is willing to pay me some of what I paid? I don't want to pay to have all these repairs done and have to keep going back to the shop again and again (as the mechanic said would likely happen).

It's just sitting in my driveway right now and can't be driven without a repair to the brake line. I am pretty bummed but just thought I'd ask some folks with experience for their input.

Thanks

this sounds like my experience... bought a 00 with "slight surface rust" for a decent deal and withing 3 months brake lines ruptured and the gas tank started leaking and had to be replaced. 3k into it right off the bat and still needing timing belt. I cut my loses then and there and sold it, lost about 2k in total but i knew that rust would lead to even more problems eventually. Now im looking for another but has to be rust free haha

 

[Swampdawg1]

Trying to post some photos here

 

[Swampdawg1]