Just bought a 200, surprise rust question.

[gomar]

I recently bought a 2018 Land Cruiser with a 114,000 miles from its original owner. The owner lived in Tacoma, WA, and had the car serviced at Titus Will Toyota since day 1. Excellent service records.

I live in San Diego. The car was well priced, so I had the seller take the car to Titus Will for a pre purchase inspection. I spoke with the Toyota tech beforehand and told him that my primary concern was rust, I asked that he be overly cautious in calling out any rusty spots. His assertion was that the rust "isn't even worth discussing, nothing to report."

Well....bought the car and had it shipped down. The undercarriage looks good, just surface oxidation along the weld seams, but upon popping the hitch cover and inspecting the rear crossmember, there's quite a bit of corrosion and flaking. Its my fault for not inspecting it myself, but so be it!

I have a guy ready to dry-ice clean the rest of the undercarriage and apply a rust/corrosion prevention treatment (dimitrol 4941) once this rear crossmember corrosion is abated. I live on the water, where even my stainless steel fridge rusts, so I really want to get this handled properly.

I have no idea how to evaluate the severity and/or repair-ability of rust. Few questions. How bad does this look? Has anyone dealt with something similar? If so, what did it cost? Lastly, any shops in Southern CA (San Diego - LA) that you recommend for this kind of work?

Excited to join the 200-series family. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Same old question, same old answer.

Whether or not that's a significant amount of rust will depend on where you live and what your expectations are. In sunny San Diego, you think that's an issue. In the PNW, that's a brand new truck that just rolled into the dealership. I'm with your inspector on this one.

It certainly won't hurt to try to slow down/remove the rust. I did that on my own truck a few years ago, too. But really, nothing in these photos will affect your ability to drive this truck for the next 20 years.

 

[gomar]

Same old question, same old answer.

Whether or not that's a significant amount of rust will depend on where you live and what your expectations are. In sunny San Diego, you think that's an issue. In the PNW, that's a brand new truck that just rolled into the dealership. I'm with your inspector on this one.

It certainly won't hurt to try to slow down/remove the rust. I did that on my own truck a few years ago, too. But really, nothing in these photos will affect your ability to drive this truck for the next 20 years.

Thank you for allaying my concerns. The persistent feedback I got when searching for a car was that "you can't go wrong as long as you don't buy a rusty one." I'm glad to hear that this isn't as bad as I've made it out to be!

 

[jlm43]

That's not bad at all but as you are already doing, should be taken care of. My theory is that the hitch cover prevents the hitch from being rinsed off so it sits under its cover just building up the rust. I've been leaving my cover off and giving the hitch a good coating of Fluid Film each fall and it seams to be helping.

 

[Sandroad]

If you want to really get after it, remove the rear bumper so you can clean and treat that crossmember. It’s a well-known place for road debris, salt, and mud to get trapped. I power wash and treat that area frequently. The rest of the frame looks ok, but be sure to directly treat the KDSS valves under the drivers side rear frame for rust. Overall, it’ll be fine.

 

[gomar]

If you want to really get after it, remove the rear bumper so you can clean and treat that crossmember. It’s a well-known place for road debris, salt, and mud to get trapped. I power wash and treat that area frequently. The rest of the frame looks ok, but be sure to directly treat the KDSS valves under the drivers side rear frame for rust. Overall, it’ll be fine.

Very good to know, thank you. I'll pop the bumper and power wash the crossmember this afternoon!

 

[gomar]

That's not bad at all but as you are already doing, should be taken care of. My theory is that the hitch cover prevents the hitch from being rinsed off so it sits under its cover just building up the rust. I've been leaving my cover off and giving the hitch a good coating of Fluid Film each fall and it seams to be helping.

Yeah that definitely makes sense. I'll be leaving the cover off moving forward as I frequently mount a bike rack to my hitch, but that'll also let me wash/treat the hitch on a regular basis.

Thank you for weighing in!

 

[Heckraiser]

Obligatory "what rust?"

Treat it if you wish (and it sounds like you do wish), but I wouldn't be concerned by what you see there. A good wire brushing, POR15 and topcoat of chassis black will make it look like new and it will probably stay that way if you stay in SoCal.

 

[gomar]

Obligatory "what rust?"

Treat it if you wish (and it sounds like you do wish), but I wouldn't be concerned by what you see there. A good wire brushing, POR15 and topcoat of chassis black will make it look like new and it will probably stay that way if you stay in SoCal.

Haha "what rust" is comforting to hear. Going to hit it with a wire brush today and see if I can get it cleaned up.

 

[Kins]

I live in SD also and just bought a gx470 from Chicago. Had about 15 minutes to check it out before someone else bought it. Rust is a little worse than yours I plan on tearing things apart and using Woolwax cleaner then their coating for the stop of new rust. A little bit of a process but I think it will be worth it in the end.

 

[Zill]

+1 for wool wax.

I wouldn’t even bother with dry ice cleaning. Just spray it down with wool wax, and reapply it on an annual basis.

I like to use the “straw/clear” wool wax instead of the black so I can inspect if the rust is getting worse. But generally, the wool wax stops it in its tracks, and since it can breathe being lanolin based, you don’t need to worry about water rotting it out. The last perk is it’s non-toxic so if you get some on you while working on your truck, it’s not going to hurt anything.

Using any paint, unless done correctly with a ton prep work, will just accelerate the rust since water can get under the paint and start its rust process. There’s a reason why there’s rust there in the first place.

 

[gomar]

+1 for wool wax.

I wouldn’t even bother with dry ice cleaning. Just spray it down with wool wax, and reapply it on an annual basis.

I like to use the “straw/clear” wool wax instead of the black so I can inspect if the rust is getting worse. But generally, the wool wax stops it in its tracks, and since it can breathe being lanolin based, you don’t need to worry about water rotting it out. The last perk is it’s non-toxic so if you get some on you while working on your truck, it’s not going to hurt anything.

Using any paint, unless done correctly with a ton prep work, will just accelerate the rust since water can get under the paint and start its rust process. There’s a reason why there’s rust there in the first place.

Interesting, that makes sense! I wasn't aware that Wookwax would just stop the rust in its tracks, my assumption was that I would have to do some kind of prep work to remove and repaint the area. That's great to hear that just applying a lanolin product will be sufficient.

I already bought a bunch of FluidFilm. Any reason you prefer WoolWax? Or are they largely the same? Appreciate your feedback!

 

[gomar]

I live in SD also and just bought a gx470 from Chicago. Had about 15 minutes to check it out before someone else bought it. Rust is a little worse than yours I plan on tearing things apart and using Woolwax cleaner then their coating for the stop of new rust. A little bit of a process but I think it will be worth it in the end.

Congrats on the new car! Sounds like we're in the same boat.

Shoot me a message if you want to team up and combine our efforts! Just bought a bunch of supplies, probably more than I'll need.

 

[Zill]

Interesting, that makes sense! I wasn't aware that Wookwax would just stop the rust in its tracks, my assumption was that I would have to do some kind of prep work to remove and repaint the area. That's great to hear that just applying a lanolin product will be sufficient.

I already bought a bunch of FluidFilm. Any reason you prefer WoolWax? Or are they largely the same? Appreciate your feedback!

It’s nearly the same product, but wool wax is a little thicker and tends to resist washing away a bit better, but fluid film is still a great product. Can’t go wrong with either.

 

[airdzi]

Rust is like war we fight but would never win. Undercovers can be replaced eventually, same with many suspension parts,. It is wheel well welds and frame I would concentrate on most. Lowering rear tailgate and looking down under plastic flap cover is your tel-tel. Hitch is another. Last rear frame crossmember would always be the worst, wheel spray water gets trapped there - unfortunately rear bumper needs to be removed to gain access,

Wash away salt first. Dry with compressor, leaf blower etc. Clean frame as good as possible concentrating on welds and paint with quality paint. POR15 is superior to Toyota factory paint which is susceptible to pinholes, resulting rust and peeling .

It is a shame Toyota does not do better job protecting parts. I replaced my rusted undercovers with new ones but prior to installing sanded and painted with Home Depot anti rust spray paint -2-3 coats, covers still look brand new after almost 5 years.

Spray your frame on the inside - plenty of access holes on the frame. Quality gun with long tube from Woolwax works well. My first inside frame coat was Boeshield Oil as I had some peeling and rust inside the frame. Drove 1-2 weeks and followed inside of the frame with Clear Fluid Film as it flows better than Woolwax. Outside frame POR15 is best if rust is well cleaned - if not use black Woolwax. I use Woolwax for annual touch ups.

Rear crossmember before, cleaned and after photos below - it can be done but this type of work sure sucks!

 

[gomar]

Rust is like war we fight but would never win. Undercovers can be replaced eventually, same with many suspension parts,. It is wheel well welds and frame I would concentrate on most. Lowering rear tailgate and looking down under plastic flap cover is your tel-tel. Hitch is another. Last rear frame crossmember would always be the worst, wheel spray water gets trapped there - unfortunately rear bumper needs to be removed to gain access,

Wash away salt first. Dry with compressor, leaf blower etc. Clean frame as good as possible concentrating on welds and paint with quality paint. POR15 is superior to Toyota factory paint which is susceptible to pinholes, resulting rust and peeling .

It is a shame Toyota does not do better job protecting parts. I replaced my rusted undercovers with new ones but prior to installing sanded and painted with Home Depot anti rust spray paint -2-3 coats, covers still look brand new after almost 5 years.

Spray your frame on the inside - plenty of access holes on the frame. Quality gun with long tube from Woolwax works well. My first inside frame coat was Boeshield Oil as I had some peeling and rust inside the frame. Drove 1-2 weeks and followed inside of the frame with Clear Fluid Film as it flows better than Woolwax. Outside frame POR15 is best if rust is well cleaned - if not use black Woolwax. I use Woolwax for annual touch ups.

Rear crossmember before, cleaned and after photos below - it can be done but this type of work sure sucks!

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Wow, that is an unbelievable difference. Nice work, I appreciate you sharing.

Did you use a wire wheel to clean? Or just wire brush? How do you know that you’ve sufficiently cleaned enough before applying POR15? Any indicators/best practices?

Going to pull the bumper after Christmas and would love to try this, just worried I’ll trap rust beneath the coating and make it worse long term.

 

[timtom]

Funny I just bought one from out of state and have a similar issue. Let me know when you figure it out or find a reputable shop.

 

[airdzi]

Wow, that is an unbelievable difference. Nice work, I appreciate you sharing.

Did you use a wire wheel to clean? Or just wire brush? How do you know that you’ve sufficiently cleaned enough before applying POR15? Any indicators/best practices?

Going to pull the bumper after Christmas and would love to try this, just worried I’ll trap rust beneath the coating and make it worse long term.

Well, do best you can, I’m a perfectionist too but some rust would stay unless you remove too much of the frame material which is structural. on the 7 year old car this is perfect time to do it, I waited 10 and it was a lot more work, my fault, I neglected it and fixed it during fall 2020 during Covid.

Problem is Toyota paint scaling and pitting ~ worst on frame welds near wheels, rear frame crossmember, welded bump stops above control arms - see last photo below, so downward pointing horns with rubber boots (pads) as they are welded onto the frame and trap water inside, protect at all cost. Around wires and steel tubing, hard to reach use punch and hit top of the punch with hammer. Remove most scale you can.

All descaling tools, get a $ 100 bulb style compressor at Menards, you would need it for spraying inside the frame anyway. They sell descaler for it with vibrating steel rods - one tool I did not have at the time. Grinder but replace grinding wheel with heavy steel brush wheel, heavy steel attachments for drill, small for hard to reach welds, variety of wire brushes, old knife, flat screwdriver; flat punch and hammer is great for descaling that crap OEM paint just by hitting it.

Again on 2018 at your level of rust where scaling is minimal I would simply clean well, soak with Boeshield oil ( buy gallon on A) wait 2 weeks or so (stay away from salt) and cover with black Woolwax, fix outside of frame first, inside last as if you decide to go POR 15 - it would not stick to oily surfaces and you have to spray oil inside the frame as it will flow and penetrate. Woolwax would stick to oil impregnated rust as long as you allow some days in between applications. Woolwax would not flow and penetrate well inside the frame, Fluid film flows slightly better but oil is best here as it would soak in leftover rust

You would always trap some rust but by descaling would eliminate pockets of trapped air and water, so by encapsulating rust you would cut off saltwater and air (oxygen) access and slow down rust in its majority. Steel must have salt, oxygen (air) and moisture to rust. That is why washing off salt first is important, drying, soaking with oil and last stage encapsulating with Woolwax to cut on salt spray and oxygen access. POR 15 step is if you must in a way replace that factory back paint and would require much better cleaning and a lot more work under the vehicle. Woolwax is easier but needs to be maintained every couple of seasons.

My photos - buildup you see under POR is the dealer PROTECTOR coating, heavy stuff asphalt like - not a fan as it does not penetrate rust just covers it with eggshell like layer - did nothing to protect rough welds and removing it is a B.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Obligatory "what rust?"

Treat it if you wish (and it sounds like you do wish), but I wouldn't be concerned by what you see there. A good wire brushing, POR15 and topcoat of chassis black will make it look like new and it will probably stay that way if you stay in SoCal.

This…

Huge POR15 fan here

 

[airdzi]

In th

This…

Huge POR15 fan here

In The rust belt or where rust is ongoing issue - Woolwax with frequent reapplications would hold better preventing rust over time.
If rust is not an issue in your area - clean as good as possible and replace crap factory paint with thin layer of POR15 and be done with it. Concentrate on blocking moisture as it is all rust needs. Salt just accelerates the process in large number fold.

Downside of Woolwax is that many road dirt particles stick to it and suspension work gets to be very messy as that stuff never dries. POR15 dries just like factory coating and everything stays clean and largely mess free.