Just bought a 200, surprise rust question.

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I use Woolwax on my rig, which sees a lot of dirt. It develops a bit more of a "crust" which is a dirt/Woolwax mixture, after which it's not really wet any more. It's pretty difficult to get off (requires a lot of pressure washer work). Since I use Woolwax black, it ends up looking like a OEM undercoating on the framerails.

In terms of getting dirty working on the rig....it's been a non-issue for me. My clothes do get some Woolwax on them, but they'd also get dirt/grease on them if the rig was uncoated, and I wear old wrenching clothes when I wrench on the rig. Woolwax will come right off you hands and clothes with soap and water (after all, it's just a fatty grease and a non-chemical). I'm able to go 3 years between Woolwax applications down here in MO.
 
Rednexus said:
I use Woolwax on my rig, which sees a lot of dirt. It develops a bit more of a "crust" which is a dirt/Woolwax mixture, after which it's not really wet any more. It's pretty difficult to get off (requires a lot of pressure washer work). Since I use Woolwax black, it ends up looking like a OEM undercoating on the framerails.

In terms of getting dirty working on the rig....it's been a non-issue for me. My clothes do get some Woolwax on them, but they'd also get dirt/grease on them if the rig was uncoated, and I wear old wrenching clothes when I wrench on the rig. Woolwax will come right off you hands and clothes with soap and water (after all, it's just a fatty grease and a non-chemical). I'm able to go 3 years between Woolwax applications down here in MO.
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I use fluid film but similar result, I always like to drive down a dusty road the day after spraying it to get a nice crust.

@OP I just bought a 2013 from Washington and my hitch looks identical to yours even though the frame is clean.
 
Fluid film advantage is that it flows better In my experience but you have to reapply every season - Woolwax advantage is that it does stick better - touch up every 2-3 seasons.

If your orginal coat was Fluid Film i would go with Woolwax for second coat.

Oil is best inside the frame - followed by FluidFilm. Do park on grass for few days after spraying oil or your driveway would turn into greasy mess. Cover garage floor with cardboard boxes.
 
I have read good things about POR15 I just worry about the paint cracking or not sealing all the way and trapping moisture under it. I am going with woolwax for the lack of smell vs Fluid film both are good products with great reviews. luckily for me I get to do all the cleaning before I put the suspension on then I'll come back through and do touch up. They actually recommend driving down a dirt road to coat the wax and give it a barrier if you will
 
Good choice my friend. Godspeed!
Kins said:
I have read good things about POR15 I just worry about the paint cracking or not sealing all the way and trapping moisture under it. I am going with woolwax for the lack of smell vs Fluid film both are good products with great reviews. luckily for me I get to do all the cleaning before I put the suspension on then I'll come back through and do touch up. They actually recommend driving down a dirt road to coat the wax and give it a barrier if you will
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You’re spot on with the POR-15. Unless you’re doing a cab off, wire wheel scrape, full access to the frame type of situation, I would not mess around with it.

Woolwax is very good and completely stopped any further rust on my Tundra which did have some build up like yours. The downfall is you need to touch it up every 1-2 years, but that’s a 2 hour long process every fall.

Get the professional spray guy, some ski or lab goggles, and a respirator for applications. I would also invest in a 20 gallon or above (husky’s are good for this) air compressor. Pancakes compressors are not big enough for a job like this.

I would also buy a 5 galllon jug of woolwax so you have enough for the life of the vehicle (20+ years).

P.S., when spraying, I like to microwave the woolwax for a couple of minutes so it’s much more runny to apply and spray. (Once it gets down below 50 degrees, it even starts to clog up the spray gun) To do this, the professional spray guy comes with those plastic bottles, and you can scoop woolwax into the plastic bottles, and microwave it (obviously not with the metal cap on).
 
airdzi said:
In th

In The rust belt or where rust is ongoing issue - Woolwax with frequent reapplications would hold better preventing rust over time.
If rust is not an issue in your area - clean as good as possible and replace crap factory paint with thin layer of POR15 and be done with it. Concentrate on blocking moisture as it is all rust needs. Salt just accelerates the process in large number fold.

Downside of Woolwax is that many road dirt particles stick to it and suspension work gets to be very messy as that stuff never dries. POR15 dries just like factory coating and everything stays clean and largely mess free.
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The dust and road grime is the best part - makes lanolin-based products like Fluid Film and Woolwax stay adhered. Suspension and other work is simple. Spray it with suspension or brake cleaner and the lanolin product disappears. Do your work, reapply with lanolin product, and you are good to go.
 
Kins said:
I have read good things about POR15 I just worry about the paint cracking or not sealing all the way and trapping moisture under it. I am going with woolwax for the lack of smell vs Fluid film both are good products with great reviews. luckily for me I get to do all the cleaning before I put the suspension on then I'll come back through and do touch up. They actually recommend driving down a dirt road to coat the wax and give it a barrier if you will
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This is the way.
 
stonepa said:
The dust and road grime is the best part - makes lanolin-based products like Fluid Film and Woolwax stay adhered. Suspension and other work is simple. Spray it with suspension or brake cleaner and the lanolin product disappears. Do your work, reapply with lanolin product, and you are good to go.
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Nice thing about lanolin is that it's a natural skin moisturizer. If you do get covered in it, it's like getting covered with lotion, rather than a toxic chemical (which most car products are).
 
Rednexus said:
Nice thing about lanolin is that it's a natural skin moisturizer. If you do get covered in it, it's like getting covered with lotion, rather than a toxic chemical (which most car products are).
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The next time my wife asks for a gift basket of some healthcare-wonder-voodoo-products, I'll gift her a case of wool wax.

Should I randomly disappear from these forums, please engrave the above phrase on my headstone.
 
eatSleepWoof said:
The next time my wife asks for a gift basket of some healthcare-wonder-voodoo-products, I'll gift her a case of wool wax.

Should I randomly disappear from these forums, please engrave the above phrase on my headstone.
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My wife hates the smell of Fluid Film and Woolwax! Not sure why as she certainly has some lanolin-based skin care products!
 
Rednexus said:
My wife hates the smell of Fluid Film and Woolwax! Not sure why as she certainly has some lanolin-based skin care products!
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Funny - both me and my dogs love the smell of Fluid Film. My wife hates it.
 
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