just another mad aussie with a few questions (1 Viewer)

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Just sold my generation 1 pajero for 3500 and traded my daily driver for this lovely 1978 3L diesel BJ landcruiser.

Now I got a few questions!

1. When the car breaks the tail swings to one particular side. What could be the causes of this?

2. As I want this project to be high quality I am considering sandblasting, acid dipping, soda blasting or similar form of looking after the chassis. How hard is to remove all the parts from the car for a complete novice? or how much would a shop charge for this?

3. The car drives REALLY well, even from cold. However it blows a LOT of smoke. I'm aware that this could be a small issue or something a bit more major. What are the most common issues causing this and how costly is it to fix?

4. What would be causing a bit of play in the stearing?

5. What is required in removing all the dash buttons and what sort of switches would be suitable instead? I'm thinking something like those missile switches.

6. Why are so many front bumpers hooked up to the springs? surely a crash or similar bump would ruin the whole suspension setup?
 
questions

(buried my answers in the quote)

Just sold my generation 1 pajero for 3500 and traded my daily driver for this lovely 1978 3L diesel BJ landcruiser.

Now I got a few questions!

1. When the car breaks the tail swings to one particular side. What could be the causes of this?
I would be looking to see if the other side is braking at all or frozen up--Probably worth a complete brake inspection at this point anyway

2. As I want this project to be high quality I am considering sandblasting, acid dipping, soda blasting or similar form of looking after the chassis. How hard is to remove all the parts from the car for a complete novice? or how much would a shop charge for this?

stripping the car for blasting is not hard but you need to be organized and take pics if you might not remember how things go---removing the body pieces and seperating the body itself is not hard

3. The car drives REALLY well, even from cold. However it blows a LOT of smoke. I'm aware that this could be a small issue or something a bit more major. What are the most common issues causing this and how costly is it to fix?
running rich---easy cheap fix
Blown head gasket ---more but not bad
Worn rings, guides, etc --starting to hurt

What color is the smoke------- blue, black, white?


4. What would be causing a bit of play in the stearing?

A bit of wear, but you may be able to isolate it out wiggling the steering , also some adjustment of the manual box is available

5. What is required in removing all the dash buttons and what sort of switches would be suitable instead? I'm thinking something like those missile switches.

Well the original are probably the best, but whatever you choose get something durable and not cheap plastic. I like all stainless, sealed toggles but there are lots of choices ---dont cheap out on switches for important stuff

6. Why are so many front bumpers hooked up to the springs? surely a crash or similar bump would ruin the whole suspension setup?
 
Just sold my generation 1 pajero for 3500 and traded my daily driver for this lovely 1978 3L diesel BJ landcruiser.

Now I got a few questions!

1. When the car breaks the tail swings to one particular side. What could be the causes of this?

2. As I want this project to be high quality I am considering sandblasting, acid dipping, soda blasting or similar form of looking after the chassis. How hard is to remove all the parts from the car for a complete novice? or how much would a shop charge for this?

3. The car drives REALLY well, even from cold. However it blows a LOT of smoke. I'm aware that this could be a small issue or something a bit more major. What are the most common issues causing this and how costly is it to fix?

4. What would be causing a bit of play in the stearing?

5. What is required in removing all the dash buttons and what sort of switches would be suitable instead? I'm thinking something like those missile switches.

6. Why are so many front bumpers hooked up to the springs? surely a crash or similar bump would ruin the whole suspension setup?

Pics added by craigwanderer because Mudders can get anxious and narky if there's no eye-candy.

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Lol kewl. That's a um... unique looking vehicle :D Can't wait to see what she looks like once you've fixed the paint and body.

To address some of your questions:

1. Brakes - I had the same issue with mine. I was lucky because it was just gunged up and didn't require replacement cylinders. To check yours out , grab four cans of brake cleaner from supercheap or repco, take the wheels off one at a time, remove the drum cover and totally soak all parts of your drum brakes with brake cleaner. Let it sit for a half hour or so before washing off and reassembling. While the drum cover is off, check your brakes and make sure the pads are not worn down. If you're lucky like I was, your degunged brakes will now work without pulling to one side. If they still do, then it's probably the wheel cylinders. There are some great threads here on Mud showing how to diagnose and replace these.

2. I haven't had mine totally disassembled as yet, but many of the blokes here have done a frame/chassis-off and restored their tubs. As bsmith says, you have to be organised. I would imagine some sort of hoist or jack stand set up and a couple of mates would be required to separate the tub from the chassis, but it's definitely doable.

3. Mine is the same - when it's cold it blows a fair bit of smoke. When she warms up, it mostly goes away. Make sure the first thing you do is service it, regardless of whether it's been done recently or not. There are additives available which may help, but if you are a novice, I'd suggest paying a mechanic to do your first service. If you can hang around and ask questions, you'll most likely get a good idea if the donk needs some work or not.

4. The steering in a 40, even when adjusted is nothing like the steering in your Pajero. There is always more play but you will get used to it.

5. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Not the dash switches!

6. Nature of the beast.

You'll find that many of your questions are also addressed in the FAQ thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-asked-questions-f-q-updated-28-jul-09-a.html

:flipoff2: Standard issue Mud welcome salute

Welcome to Mud.
 
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Dig the "eye patch" DB.

And it looks like the PO sawed off the top of a MASSIVE roo bar for you to end up with that still-massive front bumper.

Lack of "crumple zones" is a feature of early vehicles like the 40 series. But I think you'd have to have a pretty serious frontal impact to upset your suspension mounting points.

If you're putting out a lot of BLACK smoke then the PO has probably tampered with the maximum fuel setting on your injection pump to give more power. Unfortunately this would have the annoying side-effect of shortening your engine life ... So if you have black smoke I'd reduce the setting ASAP. (But first check for a clogged air filter because this can cause black smoke too.)

How about some pics of your engine? Has it still got the B or has the PO fitted a 3B?

No chance of accidentally filling your BJ40 with the petrol with that big "DIESEL ONLY" sign :lol:

And warm welcome from me too - (as a kiwi who's stumbling round looking for his marbles). The more mad aussis here the better!

:cheers:
 
It's the 3L B engine which is VERY fuel efficient. Are there many of these things at aussie wreckers? also tomorrow I'll be getting a price on a complete 1 piece front for my cruiser. Ozeast Fibreglass 4WD Noosa "Australia's No.1 in Fibreglass Replacement Panels & Bodies."

Then the plan is to just rust proof/clean up the chassis somehow, completely strip the tub, put in new seats + carpet and fix the tub then it will all look pretty new with a soft top I reckon.
 
Also what is the part at the front of the car that hooks up the the bumper? It's the only part of the car that's got any rust.
 
What is the part called that supports the bumper and is hooked up the bottom of the radiator support panel and should it be hooked there how it is? It's the only part that has rust under it..

also I'm considering talking to a few local people that I drive past that have hoists and are often working on their car and see if they would help me out for some $$.
 
Dabadankos.... From one "complete novice" to the next. YOu are fine doing it yourself. It is not that difficult. As one other poster mentioned... lots of pics, ziplocs, a sharpie and a case of PB blaster!!.

you will also need 8,10, 12, 14, 17, 19 sockets short/deep well.... and a few sizes of phillips screwdrivers (from very small to pretty stout. NOthing is difficult and as it comes apart you will realize that it is all very simply and logically assembled. and if you are going to do the engine, one large 46mm socket for the harmonic stabilizer bolt on the front. I recommend doint the engine becuase your in there.... recycled with a new seal kit is only a few hundred bucks. (a little more for me because I needed a couple pistons) but none of it was hard.

I am not a mechanic, nor have I ever taken on a project like this. But a couple of reference manuals and some hard work this is pretty simple. Of course I would not even think of doing it without knowing ih8mud exist. Everybody here has been awesome with even the smallest/dumbest questions I have asked. There is a ton of know-how here and they willing share personal experience which is really what a garage charges for.

Hopefully the pics will inspire you.... most difficult thing I had ever done was change a water pump in a bronco... "look at me now":D

I say "go for it" but then again I am enjoying my rebuild immensely.
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Very inspiring post mate! however I'm currently living at a mates on the couch so I don't have a stable place to work on it.. Bonus points to anyone who can answer my question about that support item that is connected to the chassis? also what does it mean if there's a lot of black smoke coming out during start up and driving.. 3B DIESEL
 

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