JT's FJ40 build

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DAMN...I need to clean that thing! After several steering pump replacements, I think I've got about 6 quarts of power steering fluid all over everything down there.
 
And what the hell could be leaking on that motor? we replaced all the gaskets. ??
 
I think a majority of the oil has been leaking out from around the valve cover...specifically the back of the valve cover. We found one of the nuts loose while on one ride, and when I took it off to adjust the valves a few weeks ago you could see where it had been seeping out on both sides. I was going to replace the gasket (again), but it looked to be in perfect shape. When I put it back together I made sure it was positioned correctly, and I properly tightened all the valve cover nuts. I'm hoping this will fix that.

I'm going to degrease everything this weekend and get it all cleaned up. Suggestions on a degreasing product? Soak with Simple Green and rinse off with hot water?
 
Yes that or find out from CT what he uses to clean shop floors at 49Tire. Purple Power is good also. If you know someone with those badass stem cleaners that is the ticket.
 
I've got one of those tankless hot water heaters, and it's installed in an exterior wall of my garage. If you remove the cover, there's a hose bib inside that's to be used to drain the system. What's cool is that you can attach a garden hose to it and have fairly instant, endless, hot water in the driveway. I use it all the time.
 
Hot pressure wash would be the ticket. Simple Green is never strong enough for me, and Purple Power seems a little too powerful and eats the surfaces of things.

Have you gently snugged up the oil pan and front cover bolts?
 
Have not touched the oil pan bolts since receiving and heeding the following scolding:

orangefj45 said:
Just take out one oil pan bolt at a time and put a dab of loctite in it. That's what I do. And it's the only way it should be done. If you loctite them before install, it'll never work. Loctite sets up pretty quickly. So when you're dealing with a setup like this, where you have a large quantity of bolts that need to be retorqued a few times, the loctite sets up and then turns to powder the next time you tighten the bolt.
So I get the pan on, go thru my torque sequence 5-7 times till the gasket starts to compress, then I remove one bolt at a time ( in torque sequence ), apply a little loctite, and re-install. Tedious and takes time, but it works.

Georgle

Ps: torque the pressure plate bolts to 21 foot pounds. No more.
Click to expand...
 
Man, I didn't even know this was going on....
 
fountainhead said:
Just doing some homework so I don't waste any of your shop time, brother.
Click to expand...
I'm not doing any homework but I need mine welded on as well....
 
Man y'all got a week to get this stuff fixed! You too JT! You are going!
 
IF I get to go, and IF I don't have the ram worked out beforehand, I'll happily rock the 3rd iteration of my power steering install as is and deal with the resulting aftermath. Plus, I've already got a 4th pump with a Georg pulley bolted on ready to go in the spare parts bin.
 
There are a lot of tricks to that that I have learned over the years.

One main one is although having proper torque is important it does not have to be exact.

I found that the lbs that my air ratchet will turn if I have a loose grip is perfect.

Doing them by hand is a death sentence.

I cringe every time I see 32 bolt beadlocks.
 
Being inexperienced, slightly anal, and tending to strictly adhere to instructions - assembling a set of 5, 32 bolt beadlocks with a torque wrench is a chore I hope never to perform again. The only thing worse than the painstaking task of getting all 160 bolts lined up and started by hand so they won't strip the nut inserts and then properly torqued 4 times each is hovering over the tires, inflating them, and trying not to s*** your pants when the bead finally sets.
 
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