JT's FJ40 build

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fountainhead said:
Finally opened the gauges this morning and set about adjusting the valves. I have no idea how out of spec they were. I had it in my mind that I was gonna adjust them no matter what, so I didn't even think to check them before backing off the lock nuts (stupid). Seems to be a bit quieter now.

The fuel injection conversion came with an FJ-60 style distributor. The cap on it has two vacuum hose type holes/ports on it. I ignored both of them. A couple of folks have told me that I needed to use them to properly vent the cap. A couple of Mud searches revealed that the larger port was supposed to run to a filter in the cabin (or 'high' up on the firewall) while the smaller port was supposed to be connected to a vacuum source. The idea being that the vacuum would constantly pull warm dry air through the cap. I picked up some hoses and a filter from the parts house and plumbed all this while messing around with the valves.

Also, the truck was idling around 1000-1100 RPM. I wanted to get it down to 700-800 but never got around to adjusting it. I rotated the distributor cap while in there today and got it down to 750 or so. The idle is quiet and smooth now. This might end up biting me in the ass, though, since it crawled without stalling at 1000 RPM...I kind of got used to not having to mess with the throttle on some trails. We'll see...
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I had my idle set to the minimum, which I think was in the 700-750 range. No problems stalling. It will still try and maintain the idle.
 
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wngrog said:
I never had much talent.
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Must have SOME talent:
 
FJ60Cam said:
I had my idle set to the minimum, which I think was in the 700-750 range. No problems stalling. It will still try and maintain the idle.
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I started this tinkering because the truck acted like an ass when you started it and it was cold outside...especially when it was cold and damp. Several of you have heard it...lots of back firing and very rough running. It's not sexy. Once it gets warmed up it runs great and starts right up all day long.

Well, today, after I got the idle in the 750 range it sounded better than it ever has; however, if I got on the throttle really quickly it would backfire like it does on the cold starts (just one pop, though). If I eased into the throttle it was fine. I ended up moving the idle back up to 950 or so, and that issue went away.
 
Trying to get a plan together to mount a hydro assist ram and had to Georgle this afternoon. Posting some pics for reference. Trying to determine the optimal mounting location and seeing what, if anything, needs to be done to make the ram more parallel to the tie rod. I'm all ears regarding comments/suggestions.

Some clearance shots with the wheels straight (tie rod at a maximum distance from the housing...~9 inches):

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Some very rough estimations of where the ram would sit fully compressed and fully extended if mounted to the top of the diff (it's just balanced in there...the actual mounting setup would be different):

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I was concerned about interference with the driver side u-bolt top plate when the wheels were turned full passenger and the driver tire was stuffed. Thinking about it now, though, the plate and tie rod should move together in roughly the same plane. Perhaps that won't be an issue?

What about the angle of the ram itself? It's not nearly parallel...not even in the full lock positions. Is it close enough, or should I try to extend the fixed end off the top of the diff back towards the tie rod?
 
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