Please add your own personal flare to the MT cage so it won't look exactly like all the other 40s with MT cages..
Nothing at all against em, but i think most of the people i know with a 40 have a MT cage...
Just a suggestion
WTF...weird
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Please add your own personal flare to the MT cage so it won't look exactly like all the other 40s with MT cages..
Nothing at all against em, but i think most of the people i know with a 40 have a MT cage...
Just a suggestion
Please add your own personal flare to the MT cage so it won't look exactly like all the other 40s with MT cages.. Nothing at all against em, but i think most of the people i know with a 40 have a MT cage... Just a suggestion
WTF...weird
The cowl harness is in poor shape, and the wiring under the hood is undecipherable to me...there are a lot of places where I can't match it up to the wiring diagrams in the FSM or Haynes manual. I bought a complete cowl harness from a guy here in Mud that came off his '77 (same year as mine). Once all the fires are put out on the chassis, the plan is to rip out the existing harness and go back in with the 'new to me' one - the goal being to get it to the point where you can troubleshoot...not to return it to factory condition.
I do not have a new 'rear' harness, and, after a couple of rounds of sandblasting, I'm sure there are some issues back there. That's going to take a little time, but I'm hopeful that those wires can be re-run or spliced without creating too big of a mess.
I've got a family cage from Metal Tech.
I'll put a sticker on it.
WTF...weird
What about winning....across the back.
what's next on the agenda, JT?
Seeing if we can master the geometry of a spring over while making sure that:
a) the suspension stays square under the chassis
b) the shackle angles allow for full spring flex (both compression and droop)
c) the pinion is rotated up towards the TC, out of harms way but not so much that a DC drive shaft has more than a single operating angle (i.e. zero angle at the pinion)
d) the caster is properly dialed in such that the steering returns to center while not requiring too much effort to actually turn the wheel
e) the truck sits level after making all the changes
f) last, but certainly not least, everything is put together safely (after all, my girls will be riding in this rig!)
Child's play, right? Most posts allude to it as such, and everyone will say "it's not rocket science". Most likely it is not, but I must admit the OCD in me is freaking the eff out about it a little bit.
On a lighter note, I really do have a secret sticker for the cage. I suppose, though, if we all end up putting one on our MT family cages it would defeat the purpose (I printed 50 of them).
Seeing if we can master the geometry of a spring over while making sure that: a) the suspension stays square under the chassis b) the shackle angles allow for full spring flex (both compression and droop) c) the pinion is rotated up towards the TC, out of harms way but not so much that a DC drive shaft has more than a single operating angle (i.e. zero angle at the pinion) d) the caster is properly dialed in such that the steering returns to center while not requiring too much effort to actually turn the wheel e) the truck sits level after making all the changes f) last, but certainly not least, everything is put together safely (after all, my girls will be riding in this rig!) Child's play, right? Most posts allude to it as such, and everyone will say "it's not rocket science". Most likely it is not, but I must admit the OCD in me is freaking the eff out about it a little bit. On a lighter note, I really do have a secret sticker for the cage. I suppose, though, if we all end up putting one on our MT family cages it would defeat the purpose (I printed 50 of them).[/QUOTE
Get it down.....then I can bring my 62 over to SOA
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We gonna need the keys just in case we need to move it every now and then...
I bet. I would leave them, somebody needs to take for a spin more than once a month!




