Nice 4runner, I like how you kept it IFS, minimal lift, 35s and duals. you dont see that often 
Nice work.
Nice work.
JT's 88 4 Runner Build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter jtaco1
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Nice 4runner, I like how you kept it IFS, minimal lift, 35s and duals. you dont see that often
x2
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks guys, it really has surprised me how well it works. This is the second truck that I built and did all the work in my garage with help from friends.
Next up is an internal roll cage, suspension seats and maybe 4.7 gears if I can get a set cheaply, otherwise it stays stock duals.
Next up is an internal roll cage, suspension seats and maybe 4.7 gears if I can get a set cheaply, otherwise it stays stock duals.
Nice build. I just sold my 32 BFG MTs and will be ordering 35 Trxus MT to replace them. I as well am going to keep it with out a lift. I have an 88 with the 3.4 swap and the 340h not the f. I will be switching over to the f when I get the dual cases as well. Im not sure which to upgrade frist duals or sas. Good to see that the IFS will hold up. I was thinking I would have to sas sooner than i thought.
X3. I am about to take my BL out and everyone says I am nuts for spendy my money on a IFS lif and not SASing it.Nice 4runner, I like how you kept it IFS, minimal lift, 35s and duals. you dont see that often
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- #26
SAS is nice, but I don't feel that I need it yet, it would make the trails that I run boring.
X2 I ran an area when my runner was not locked and geared and tit was challenging. After the gears and lockers I did the whole thing in 2wd.
- Thread starter
- #28
Well we went to Rausch the other weekend for EC4RJ and had a blast. Truck wheeled great and having a trailer is so nice. Here are some pictures from the weekend.
Who knew stock springs could droop that much
Who knew stock springs could droop that much
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Great rig man, i just attended the SE4RJ last month It was a blast. There was a sweet f-toy there
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks, that F-toy is nice looking. once the body gets beat too much I will go F-toy with it.
Alright jtaco1 I realize you answered how to cut fenders thread but: what did you use, and how ie. what process did you use to cut those fenders, I am about to go with 35's for my 89 yota pickup and I know that there is some cutting in my near future just wondering how you did your fenders. Gotta follow what looks good right? Your $hit looks good cut like that, I can only hope mine mimics yours. I set up a 35 next to my truck today and tried exactly what will be needed to trim, hit with a BFH and what not, just trying to figure out exactly I will be cutting and trying to figure out what will be the most precise. Also if you can remember the clearance you had with your wheels in your opinion would a 35 12.50 be ok with the Ball joint spacers and 3.75 back spaced wheels? Cheers!
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Alright Another question, I plan on regearing to 5.29's front and rear I have no need for an SAS in the next five years and figured I would run 35's with that until I swap out the front ifs for a solid axle. My question for you is: is it cheaper in your opinion to run dual cases and stock gearing or regear front and rear without Dual cases? And with dual cases will I need to get new drive lines for both front and rear?
- Thread starter
- #33
I cut the fenders with a cut off wheel on a grinder. Use the existing body lines on the fenders and measure to get the lines where you want them. I don't try to cut the entire way through on teh first shot, I score the surface of the metal with the disk and work my way along the line, once I have the line scored, I then work my way back and forth finally cutting through. If you try and plunge the disk through, it will grab and go where it wants or explode. I did a lot of cut then test fit then cut a little more to make sure everything cleared.
I run 3" BS rims and still rub a little under compression in the front at the firewall. Should have taken more out in this area, but it really isn't that bad since there are no sharp edges to cut the tire. I would think that you could fit your setup no problem.
As for gearing, if you are going to be on the street, you will want to most likely regear, although, I don't have a problem. I would say give the stock gears a shot and see what it does, you may be ok, but it will not pull off the line very fast and 5th gear may be worthless, although I use mine at cruising speed. Hills will be a bit of a pain with stock gearing as well.
The dual cases are great for offroad, but do nothing for onroad. I have two stock cases and it works well, but with teh 4.10 axle gears it isn't slow enough for me, so I am putting 4.7 gears in teh back case to go slower.
Figure out if this will be a mostly trail truck or a DD, if trail truck run stock gears and dual cases, if DD run the 5.29 gears and a stock case or a geared case to go slower offroad. The gears do nothing until you go into 4 low, so they will not interfere with DD.
If you do dual cases, you will have to shorten your rear shaft and lengthen your front. I cut my rear down by 6.5" and welded it back up and the front I cut in half and spliced in a section of schedule 40 and welded it up to the length I needed. Has worked great so far. Your other option, like I mentioned earlier, is to go with a geared t-case, you get the benefits of low geraing without having to mess with your shafts.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
I run 3" BS rims and still rub a little under compression in the front at the firewall. Should have taken more out in this area, but it really isn't that bad since there are no sharp edges to cut the tire. I would think that you could fit your setup no problem.
As for gearing, if you are going to be on the street, you will want to most likely regear, although, I don't have a problem. I would say give the stock gears a shot and see what it does, you may be ok, but it will not pull off the line very fast and 5th gear may be worthless, although I use mine at cruising speed. Hills will be a bit of a pain with stock gearing as well.
The dual cases are great for offroad, but do nothing for onroad. I have two stock cases and it works well, but with teh 4.10 axle gears it isn't slow enough for me, so I am putting 4.7 gears in teh back case to go slower.
Figure out if this will be a mostly trail truck or a DD, if trail truck run stock gears and dual cases, if DD run the 5.29 gears and a stock case or a geared case to go slower offroad. The gears do nothing until you go into 4 low, so they will not interfere with DD.
If you do dual cases, you will have to shorten your rear shaft and lengthen your front. I cut my rear down by 6.5" and welded it back up and the front I cut in half and spliced in a section of schedule 40 and welded it up to the length I needed. Has worked great so far. Your other option, like I mentioned earlier, is to go with a geared t-case, you get the benefits of low geraing without having to mess with your shafts.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thats awesome Jtaco1 that helps alot! I am going to try the 35's but I do plan on regearing since the 31's are too much for my liking with the 4.10's. I am not too worried about the cost of the front end considering I can put them in for free at my shop and if I didn't regear, my truck would piss me off for being too slow, bog down in the snow, and would need a new clutch. It is a DD and 5th gear would be nice to be able to use. Thanks your experience with this subject will save me a lot of time. Thats why I love Ih8mud, you guys are experts! It is the setup to stick for the next 5 or so years so the cost of the gears in the front are not a problem to me at all. I'll keep you updated!
- Thread starter
- #35
Little update, I am picking up a FJ60 front axle housing this weekend to build to go under the front of this truck. I will be swapping all of my parts from my 85 mini truck front axle to the FJ60 and running 4.10 FJ40 diffs, since I have two of them sitting in the shop.
I had a set of IFS wheelbearing hubs turned down to fit Tacoma rotors so I can widen the axle. In the end I should end up with a front Toyota axle that is around 62" wide without spacers and a ring and pinion similar to a Dana 60.
Next month I will be dropping a 4.7 geared t-case with twin sticks in so I will have a final crawl ratio around 175:1. Looking forward to this mod.
I had a set of IFS wheelbearing hubs turned down to fit Tacoma rotors so I can widen the axle. In the end I should end up with a front Toyota axle that is around 62" wide without spacers and a ring and pinion similar to a Dana 60.
Next month I will be dropping a 4.7 geared t-case with twin sticks in so I will have a final crawl ratio around 175:1. Looking forward to this mod.
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Sounds good! What sort of lockers are you going to run?
- Thread starter
- #37
I will be open to start with most likely. I find where we wheel that the dual cases and rear locker can take you most places.
I need to look and see what all lockers are made for the 9.5 Land Cruiser diffs. Ideally I would use a rear elocker diff out of an FJ80 to match the elocker I have outback now.
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- #39
Thanks, the motor is a stocker that I got form a buddy that parted his 87 4 Runner out. It has something like 200k on it and is still going strong. Eventually I will replace the timing setup and what not since it has been awile. I think I paid like $80 for it.
