good idea JT, you would miss the enclosed cab 6 months out of the year in PA : )
roll cage= happy wife and kids!
roll cage= happy wife and kids!
JT's '88 4 Runner Build
- Thread starter jtaco1
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #242
Just got word that my cage should be here by this weekend. Time to get this project moving again 
- Thread starter
- #243
Here is what my 4 Runner looked like after I cut the top off from the roll.
So I took Friday off to get this cage mostly knocked out. The cage kit is from 4xInnovations and is the passenger length DOM version. The kit arrived in 3 packages and looked like this once unwrapped.
First thing you have to do is weld up the b-pillar since it is cut in half for shipping. An 8" long DOM slug is included with the kit and slips into the connection. I also drilled 4 plug weld holes in the b-pillar for added strength. I had a slight issue getting the slug all the way in on one side, but I trimmed it down and it all went together.
I then went through and put the floor plates in and tacked the b-pillar into place. I did have to use a ratchet strap to close since it was a little wide at the bottom from welding and the tweaked body. I then tacked in the a-pillar tubes and front cross bar and center bar.
I decided not to install the rear portion of the kit like it is designed and retain the factory roll bar. I have cut down the rear bars to tie right into rear bar at the main node. I don't have pictures yet since I have three more tubes to install along with the gussets and dash bar and harness bar that I need to bend up yet.
Overall the kit is nice, but you definately need two people to do the install, I did it solo and it was a pain doing the a-pillar to b-pillar at times. Also some of the notches seamed to be off slightly for all of the tubes to fit together up front. To keep the notches tight at the b-pillar, I had to put heavy tacks at that joint and then use my hi-lift jack to spread the front part apart to get the cross bar in, but it is in and works. The other thing that I'm not a huge fan of is the height of the cage, it seems like it is very low up front, but that could be because I don't have a roof and that my seats may be a bit high. I will be building a sub-frame for the seats and lowering them at the same time so I have headroom.
I have the remaining tube to install then I am taking it to my cousins to do the final welding with a larger welder, then paint and wheeling at EC4RJ at the end of June.
So I took Friday off to get this cage mostly knocked out. The cage kit is from 4xInnovations and is the passenger length DOM version. The kit arrived in 3 packages and looked like this once unwrapped.
First thing you have to do is weld up the b-pillar since it is cut in half for shipping. An 8" long DOM slug is included with the kit and slips into the connection. I also drilled 4 plug weld holes in the b-pillar for added strength. I had a slight issue getting the slug all the way in on one side, but I trimmed it down and it all went together.
I then went through and put the floor plates in and tacked the b-pillar into place. I did have to use a ratchet strap to close since it was a little wide at the bottom from welding and the tweaked body. I then tacked in the a-pillar tubes and front cross bar and center bar.
I decided not to install the rear portion of the kit like it is designed and retain the factory roll bar. I have cut down the rear bars to tie right into rear bar at the main node. I don't have pictures yet since I have three more tubes to install along with the gussets and dash bar and harness bar that I need to bend up yet.
Overall the kit is nice, but you definately need two people to do the install, I did it solo and it was a pain doing the a-pillar to b-pillar at times. Also some of the notches seamed to be off slightly for all of the tubes to fit together up front. To keep the notches tight at the b-pillar, I had to put heavy tacks at that joint and then use my hi-lift jack to spread the front part apart to get the cross bar in, but it is in and works. The other thing that I'm not a huge fan of is the height of the cage, it seems like it is very low up front, but that could be because I don't have a roof and that my seats may be a bit high. I will be building a sub-frame for the seats and lowering them at the same time so I have headroom.
I have the remaining tube to install then I am taking it to my cousins to do the final welding with a larger welder, then paint and wheeling at EC4RJ at the end of June.
- Thread starter
- #244
Here are a couple more pictures of what I got done today, the dash bar and rear center bar. I am thinking about somehow tying the three rear bars together somehow, but haven't come up with it yet. I also need to install the two down bars from teh top of the cage to the dash bar.
- Thread starter
- #245
Got a little more done today in between the kids naps. Bent up a harness bar and got two more gussets in for the back. Not much, but it is getting there.
And here is a close up of the dash bar, I will be installing two tubes between the dash bar and top bar in the coming week.
And here is a close up of the dash bar, I will be installing two tubes between the dash bar and top bar in the coming week.
- Thread starter
- #246
Gussets done and the cage has the first coat of paint on it. Colin likes it too and has plenty of head room.
- Thread starter
- #247
Quick update on this build. I have been working on building a FJ60/62 front axle to go in intsead of a mini truck axle. I will be using IFS hub bodies to widen it out to about 61.5" to match the Tacoma rear axle. Here is the axle with redone spring perches and truss along with the RuffStuff diff cover I will be using.
And just in case I don't like the Toyota axles, here are another set that I will be working on
And just in case I don't like the Toyota axles, here are another set that I will be working on
- Thread starter
- #248
I am having a 14'x30' addition with man door and 9'x7' garage door added to my exisiting shop. Once sealed up, the blue doors will come out along with two vertical rows of block so that I can get a vehicle in the block building.
Day 1
Day 2 - Roof is about 98% complete, just a little more tin to go and the windows are in on the front wall. They should be able to insulate the walls, install the tin and both doors today. Gutters and downspouts will be going on both buildings in the next few weeks.
Day 1
Day 2 - Roof is about 98% complete, just a little more tin to go and the windows are in on the front wall. They should be able to insulate the walls, install the tin and both doors today. Gutters and downspouts will be going on both buildings in the next few weeks.
envious! Nice shop JT, watch the work roll now 
- Thread starter
- #250
Here are the updates from Day 3. Looks like they may be able to finish tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #251
And it is done in 4 Days.
Next up is concrete and re-wire the entire building. New lights everywhere, outlets every 12 feet or so, at least one 220 outlet centrally located for a future welder. When the concrete is pored, I may put some footers in to put a lift in at a later date.
And the kids with their Toyota
Next up is concrete and re-wire the entire building. New lights everywhere, outlets every 12 feet or so, at least one 220 outlet centrally located for a future welder. When the concrete is pored, I may put some footers in to put a lift in at a later date.
And the kids with their Toyota
- Thread starter
- #252
Alright, here are the pictures of the FJ60 axle pretty much complete, just need to install the Longfield HD Knuckle Wipers.
Here is the RuffStuff FJ40 diff cover that I welded on. Stupid beefy 3/8" plate
Here is the frenched in passenger side spring perch.
IFS hub bodies with Tacoma rotors. The V6 brake calipers will be mounted on the outside of the knuckle ears. ARP knuckles studs used on the hy steer arms.
And finally, here are the FJ80 drive flanges installed with ARP hub studs.
Going to be redoing my front seat mounts this weekend so that they sit lower and give better clearance to the roll cage.
Here is the RuffStuff FJ40 diff cover that I welded on. Stupid beefy 3/8" plate
Here is the frenched in passenger side spring perch.
IFS hub bodies with Tacoma rotors. The V6 brake calipers will be mounted on the outside of the knuckle ears. ARP knuckles studs used on the hy steer arms.
And finally, here are the FJ80 drive flanges installed with ARP hub studs.
Going to be redoing my front seat mounts this weekend so that they sit lower and give better clearance to the roll cage.
- Thread starter
- #253
Well thanks to RuffStuff having a sale on all parts including DOM, along with the Pirate 4x4 discount, I now have a complete steering setup enroute with 0.25" wall DOM tie rod and drag link, 3/4" heims, and accessories (bungs, jams, safety washers, and misalighnment spacers) coming my way for just a touch over $200 shipped. Didn't really need to buy it just yet, but couldn't pass up such a kickass deal. So once this comes in, I am 100% ready for the SAS if my IFS takes a crap at Takeover.
Very nice, JT. Sounds (and looks) like you're going to have a bulletproof setup!
- Thread starter
- #255
Thanks, only weak link now is that I am running stock birfs and shafts, but hopefully they will survive without a front locker for now.
- Thread starter
- #256
When I originally built my cage, I was in a hurry since EC4RJ was a day or two away, so I made some compromises with the rear section of the cage and tied it into the stock bar. I never liked it so it is time to change it up. Picked up some 1.75" DOM and I am now ready to start. Last night I started with this.
Two hours later I ended the night with this.
Doesn't look like I did much, but I also have my cage foot plates installed and am ready to start the mockup.
Plan is to have a verticle C-Pillar behind the rear seats with a D-Pillar angles down at the back of the body. To tie the two sides together, I may just go with a simple straight tube or go with a halo type tube with two kickers. Bending will start this Sunday.
Got the tubing bent up in the morning for the 4 Runner. Finished up the frame mounting plates and started to set the tubes in place. Got the main structure tacked in as well. One issue I am running into is that my original cage is made from .120" wall tubing, but the tube I am using for the new section is .125" wall so I can't use the same inner tube sleeve that I normally use, which would be 1.5" DOM.
I have some 1.5" x .25" DOM left over from my steering linkage that I am going to have half turned down to fit in the 1.75" x .125" DOM that I am using. Once I get them turned down, I can fully weld everything out. I have about 7-8 more tubes to install, but this is how I left it at the end of the day yesterday.
Short Fab Day 3
I got some 1.5" x 0.25" tubing turned down to fit as a slug between the two sections of tubing and installed them with plug welds. Added a few more tubes, two of which took a decent amount of time to get just right. Also notched and re-bent the original tube in the middle to intersect with the new horizontal bar of the C-pillar. Three to five more tubes and it is done. Here are the pictures.
Two hours later I ended the night with this.
Doesn't look like I did much, but I also have my cage foot plates installed and am ready to start the mockup.
Plan is to have a verticle C-Pillar behind the rear seats with a D-Pillar angles down at the back of the body. To tie the two sides together, I may just go with a simple straight tube or go with a halo type tube with two kickers. Bending will start this Sunday.
Got the tubing bent up in the morning for the 4 Runner. Finished up the frame mounting plates and started to set the tubes in place. Got the main structure tacked in as well. One issue I am running into is that my original cage is made from .120" wall tubing, but the tube I am using for the new section is .125" wall so I can't use the same inner tube sleeve that I normally use, which would be 1.5" DOM.
I have some 1.5" x .25" DOM left over from my steering linkage that I am going to have half turned down to fit in the 1.75" x .125" DOM that I am using. Once I get them turned down, I can fully weld everything out. I have about 7-8 more tubes to install, but this is how I left it at the end of the day yesterday.
Short Fab Day 3
I got some 1.5" x 0.25" tubing turned down to fit as a slug between the two sections of tubing and installed them with plug welds. Added a few more tubes, two of which took a decent amount of time to get just right. Also notched and re-bent the original tube in the middle to intersect with the new horizontal bar of the C-pillar. Three to five more tubes and it is done. Here are the pictures.
- Thread starter
- #257
Got some more done Sunday morning. Where I placed my C-pillar on the inner fenders there was a bump that located the stock roll bar that made it a PITA to have a level area for a foot plate. Little bit of work with the plasma and some plating and I had a flat area to work with. I had Kris at After Midnight Fabrication locally cut me some nice foot plates. Got those bolted in and bent up the C-pillar and welded it out. Rolled it out of the shop to get a beter look at what I had - if the cage looks lopsided, don't worry it is not, I parked on a hill and suck at taking pictures
All that is left is to tie the rear portion of the cage into the frame, install a few gussets at the C-pillar like I have on the B-pillar, C-pillar and C-pillar to D-pillar braces, and a flip up storage/gear rack once some of the parts come in from RuffStuff.
All that is left is to tie the rear portion of the cage into the frame, install a few gussets at the C-pillar like I have on the B-pillar, C-pillar and C-pillar to D-pillar braces, and a flip up storage/gear rack once some of the parts come in from RuffStuff.
4Runner
JT- looks great! You won't be afraid to roll it again with all that protection! Just kidding.....
Aaron- Tricky Toy- is good to deal with. He and I have done a few deals and I'd say we've both been happy with the results. Gary S
JT- looks great! You won't be afraid to roll it again with all that protection! Just kidding.....
Aaron- Tricky Toy- is good to deal with. He and I have done a few deals and I'd say we've both been happy with the results. Gary S
- Thread starter
- #259
Thanks Gary. Rolling again will undoubtedly happen
Sounds good on Aaron, we'll see what we can do on the tranny and t-case - can't hurt to have a spare for this truck or the 89.
As for the cage, I was nearly done with notching the remaining tubes and installing them last night and ran out of wire on the second weld
Picked up the metal for the gear rack yesterday on my way into work, jsut waiting for RuffStuff to deliver the other parts to build it and should be good to go.
Sounds good on Aaron, we'll see what we can do on the tranny and t-case - can't hurt to have a spare for this truck or the 89.
As for the cage, I was nearly done with notching the remaining tubes and installing them last night and ran out of wire on the second weld
Picked up the metal for the gear rack yesterday on my way into work, jsut waiting for RuffStuff to deliver the other parts to build it and should be good to go.
- Thread starter
- #260
Have had a few moments to get some stuff done. The cage is all welded out and bolted in. Got the rear rack built and installed. I put it on poly bushings at the one end so that I can lift the tailgate side up to access underneath for tools and straps. The top has the HiLift and will be getting an Artec TrailCrate, CO2 Tank Mount, and cooler mount - all done, just not mounted yet.
Also started on cross-bracing the B-pillar. Three more tubes under the harnes bar and that is done too.
Also started on cross-bracing the B-pillar. Three more tubes under the harnes bar and that is done too.
