Joke thread -Who daily drives on 5.38 gearing?

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

I am pick gears for my SAS and definitely will DD it. According to the chart 5.29 is my number but most offer 5.13 or 5.38. some cases my axle might be limited to 5.13?? does anyone daily drive on this gearing? Which is better? Does it make a difference?

 

[nukegoat]

I am pick gears for my SAS and definitely will DD it. According to the chart 5.29 is my number but most offer 5.13 or 5.38. some cases my axle might be limited to 5.13?? does anyone daily drive on this gearing? Which is better? Does it make a difference?

I find it hard to believe you will successfully SAS your 100 but are unsure about this question

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

I find it hard to believe you will successfully SAS your 100 but are unsure about this question

Dude.... You know nothing of me but you some how know I can't do it?? I have spent my life engineering and fabricating for others don't say stuff like that. Focus, I didn't ask you your beliefs, just need some input so I can dial this in. Be supportive man whether I do it or not. Are you running those gears? Do you even have a vehicle with those gears. Please help out, what kind of advice do you have

 

[nukegoat]

Dude.... You know nothing of me but you some how know I can't do it?? I have spent my life engineering and fabricating for others don't say stuff like that. Focus, I didn't ask you your beliefs, just need some input so I can dial this in. Be supportive man whether I do it or not. Are you running those gears? Do you even have a vehicle with those gears. Please help out, what kind of advice do you have

Gear ratios are just math though. You can determine if they will be correct a priori.

Good luck. I still find success difficult to imagine. Doing a SAS right is hard

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Gear ratios are just math though. You can determine if they will be correct a priori.

Good luck. I still find success difficult to imagine. Doing a SAS right is hard

Thanks you,
Now I definitely agree with that, it is already challenging. I am tig welding a new gas tank and relocating the canister is a p.i.t.a. so many variables.

 

[nukegoat]

Thanks you,
Now I definitely agree with that, it is already challenging. I am tig welding a new gas tank and relocating the canister is a p.i.t.a. so many variables.

You're moving the gas tank to behind the rear axle? Assuming that's why the canister is in the way?

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

You're moving the gas tank to behind the rear axle? Assuming that's why the canister is in the way?

Ya. Apparently the earlier 100 series the canister was under the hood, I'm jealous of that. That is annoying. I may just move it over a few inches and build around it. Still deciding and still making cardboard gas tanks at the moment. Even shortening the fuel lines is a big deal sooo if I wind up with a tiny gas tank I won't do it. I will just beef up the parallel 4 link that is under there now. It's pie in the sky I know. But I have spent many hours just laying under the back end working this out. If I can buy the proper length fuel lines this doable. For sure it not only has to be right, but it must be better or I won't do it. Nothing but time and money right hahahahah ouch

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

There is so much I have not said. Like I have spent a loooonnng time thinking about this, planning, reviewing, slowly buying tools etc. I am forever a 100 series owner deeper than you could imagine. I like building and this time it is for me. The most exciting part is getting rid of the rack n pinion. If you seriously wheel, you change that thing every two years. I hate it. And the constant changing of bushings never stops ugh. I'm over it.

 

[boma23]

I've got a 100 and a Surf(4runner) on 33s that would both benefit from re-gearing, and I have no need to retain motorway crushing speeds. However I do keep reading that going lower on big rubber ( increases chances of breaking teeth (more = thinner teeth), and I'm guessing you are going way bigger than 33s with a SAS!

 

[nukegoat]

There is so much I have not said. Like I have spent a loooonnng time thinking about this, planning, reviewing, slowly buying tools etc. I am forever a 100 series owner deeper than you could imagine. I like building and this time it is for me. The most exciting part is getting rid of the rack n pinion. If you seriously wheel, you change that thing every two years. I hate it. And the constant changing of bushings never stops ugh. I'm over it.

Read my thread. Let me know if you have any questions:

Builds - Hammersaurus Lex - The LX470 gets tons

Edit: current pic: I was just sitting in my garage minding my own business and my plasma cutter slipped and cut my IFS off! This project is a ton of work but honestly not much more than Marshmallow was. I've just condensed it all into the past week so I'm exhausted. Still in flight but I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Read my thread. Let me know if you have any questions:

Builds - Hammersaurus Lex - The LX470 gets tons

Edit: current pic: I was just sitting in my garage minding my own business and my plasma cutter slipped and cut my IFS off! This project is a ton of work but honestly not much more than Marshmallow was. I've just condensed it all into the past week so I'm exhausted. Still in flight but I...

forum.ih8mud.com

Your the one with hammersaurus! Hahaha I have heard about it

 

[peacesells63]

Step 1 - Figure out what tire size you want to run
Step 2 - Figure out what axles you want to run
Step 3 - Figure out what gears are available for the axles you want to run that suit the tire size you want to run.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Step 1 - Figure out what tire size you want to run
Step 2 - Figure out what axles you want to run
Step 3 - Figure out what gears are available for the axles you want to run that suit the tire size you want to run.

1 40"
2 already have the axles. Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear
3 5.13 or 5.38 looks like the gearing don't know which to pick

How do you pick travel? Do I just say 14 or 16" and build it?

 

[FlammableFishie]

You're trying to daily a SAS 100 on 40s?? I hope you don't plan on long trips. Also, if you know how to tig, why wouldn't you just make your own AN fuel lines?

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

You're trying to daily a SAS 100 on 40s?? I hope you don't plan on long trips. Also, if you know how to tig, why wouldn't you just make your own AN fuel lines?

Daily around town, I have another car for long trips.
And Tig AN fuel lines?! What do you mean.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Read my thread. Let me know if you have any questions:

Builds - Hammersaurus Lex - The LX470 gets tons

Edit: current pic: I was just sitting in my garage minding my own business and my plasma cutter slipped and cut my IFS off! This project is a ton of work but honestly not much more than Marshmallow was. I've just condensed it all into the past week so I'm exhausted. Still in flight but I...

forum.ih8mud.com

.......I read eVery post.

 

[peacesells63]

1 40"
2 already have the axles. Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear
3 5.13 or 5.38 looks like the gearing don't know which to pick

How do you pick travel? Do I just say 14 or 16" and build it?

5.38 for sure

Radius arms or 3 link?

Travel, measure what extended length coilover you can fit and what kind of uptravel you are looking for. 16" coilovers will be very close if not through the hood and will be much more difficult to fit. I am running 14" short body 2.5" kings, if I had full length 14's or 16s the driver side coilover would be in the master cylinder.

what do you plan to do for the rear? the stock suspension sucks with 11" of travel, and you cant fit anything longer than a 12" shock under the truck. If you want to run 16" up front, you will be limited to much less in the rear unless you do what nukegoat did.

Not to discourage you, but these trucks are a huge pain in the ass to solid axle swap and do it right, especially when doing a link setup. Make sure you have a good plan, and realize you will miss about half of what needs to be done VS what you think needs to be done - both in labor and cost.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

I find it hard to believe you will successfully SAS your 100 but are unsure about this question

Now I am curious, knowing this, you made that comment AFTER you did your build. Why? Did you not like you LX after because of it? Any draw backs or after thoughts you may have looking back? Do you still have it?

How did you pick your travel both up and down and what height on the frame did you set your shock towers to, or are these two the same? The axle will sit at a known height, I got that.
What height did you set your LX to for your build. Someone said 23" to the skid pan?
Did you use the four link calculator, worth it, if not How did you calculate your geometry of your suspension, a little more street or more twords dirt. what are your anti squat numbers?
You did not change motor mounts, I was thinking about raising mine, good idea?

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

5.38 for sure

Radius arms or 3 link?

Travel, measure what extended length coilover you can fit and what kind of uptravel you are looking for. 16" coilovers will be very close if not through the hood and will be much more difficult to fit. I am running 14" short body 2.5" kings, if I had full length 14's or 16s the driver side coilover would be in the master cylinder.

what do you plan to do for the rear? the stock suspension sucks with 11" of travel, and you cant fit anything longer than a 12" shock under the truck. If you want to run 16" up front, you will be limited to much less in the rear unless you do what nukegoat did.

Not to discourage you, but these trucks are a huge pain in the ass to solid axle swap and do it right, especially when doing a link setup. Make sure you have a good plan, and realize you will miss about half of what needs to be done VS what you think needs to be done - both in labor and cost.

Great info solid advice.
I was thinking 14" ORIs. The rear will go under the knife to fit the 14" shocks, if it is worth it I will try to fit 16" doubt it will work tho. 4 link rear, 3 link front. And all the side effect changes as well; new gas tank in different spot, new exhaust, new motor mounts??? Hydro assist PSC. Maybe full hydro with orbital valve set up, don't know on that one. Probably a cheaper knock off version? I will probably move the axle back in the rear some.

 

[nukegoat]

Now I am curious, knowing this, you made that comment AFTER you did your build. Why? Did you not like you LX after because of it? Any draw backs or after thoughts you may have looking back? Do you still have it?

How did you pick your travel both up and down and what height on the frame did you set your shock towers to, or are these two the same? The axle will sit at a known height, I got that.
What height did you set your LX to for your build. Someone said 23" to the skid pan?
Did you use the four link calculator, worth it, if not How did you calculate your geometry of your suspension, a little more street or more twords dirt. what are your anti squat numbers?
You did not change motor mounts, I was thinking about raising mine, good idea?

Still have it. It's just kind of an odd conclusion of a rig to be honest. Capable and eye catching, very nice, etc. But way overkill for the trails where you can keep it nice looking.

All the lift and travel and etc questions are up to you. I use the link calculators but don't remember AS values.

If you can raise the motor mounts, do it. I didn't and wish I had.