That was the dryer
J-Robs truck saga (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bodean
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
jrob
Florence, MS
Small update:
Well JT and myself spent most of the weekend trouble shooting small problems and doing s*** twice. We decided that was the best way to know you truck!
A lot of problems, to the short of it.....
Today we had a noise coming from the
AA bell housing. It sounds like a spring is broke on the clutch. It is a pretty decent rattle(not really a grinding). Engine running no problems, clutch halfway to 3/4 in no noise. Clutch to the floor that's when the rattle begins. Truck will still move and run.
After hours of changing slave cylinders, master cylinder, and pulled starter and reinstalled. We decided to was a clutch spring...any thoughts?
For those of you that don't know,....it's a lot of work getting to that bastard with that AA adapter!.....s***!
Well JT and myself spent most of the weekend trouble shooting small problems and doing s*** twice. We decided that was the best way to know you truck!
A lot of problems, to the short of it.....
Today we had a noise coming from the
AA bell housing. It sounds like a spring is broke on the clutch. It is a pretty decent rattle(not really a grinding). Engine running no problems, clutch halfway to 3/4 in no noise. Clutch to the floor that's when the rattle begins. Truck will still move and run.
After hours of changing slave cylinders, master cylinder, and pulled starter and reinstalled. We decided to was a clutch spring...any thoughts?
For those of you that don't know,....it's a lot of work getting to that bastard with that AA adapter!.....s***!
Last edited:
New throw out bearing?
jrob
Florence, MS
Yes, it came with the AA kit
are you using a marks adapter or the aa bellhousing adapter. I've had problems with the throwout bearing with marks setup.
If you pull it a part see if you notice rub/wear marks on your pressure plate "fingers". At least with the marks...there is some magic associated with setting up the clutch fork adjustment... may not be the same issue with you if running the aa bellhousing.
would hear noise from clutch area about 3/4 of clutch pedal depressed...no noise fully disengaged or pedal fully depressed. I don't have any good answer...for the fix other than replacing the throw-out bearing...but you should not have to do that on a brand new setup.
I had my truck over to ACC and had them fix that along with something else I had going on with my transfer case. The fix was new throw-out bearing, and adjusting the clutch fork play.
Oh yeah...if you have the marks kit...you need to pay careful attention to installing the "shims" on the clutch fork....easily overlooked.
If mine screws up again ....I'm probally going 4L60E or 4L80E and solve all that $$hit.
If you pull it a part see if you notice rub/wear marks on your pressure plate "fingers". At least with the marks...there is some magic associated with setting up the clutch fork adjustment... may not be the same issue with you if running the aa bellhousing.
would hear noise from clutch area about 3/4 of clutch pedal depressed...no noise fully disengaged or pedal fully depressed. I don't have any good answer...for the fix other than replacing the throw-out bearing...but you should not have to do that on a brand new setup.
I had my truck over to ACC and had them fix that along with something else I had going on with my transfer case. The fix was new throw-out bearing, and adjusting the clutch fork play.
Oh yeah...if you have the marks kit...you need to pay careful attention to installing the "shims" on the clutch fork....easily overlooked.
If mine screws up again ....I'm probally going 4L60E or 4L80E and solve all that $$hit.
Last edited:
It's a marks adapter.
One of the many things we were troubleshooting Saturday (before all this clutch nonsense started) was a high pitched whine/squeal that would come and go at idle. We couldn't identify the source, but it sounded like a belt or pulley or idler. When we got under there yesterday to inspect the clutch area, one of the first things we noticed was that the throwout bearing was not fully disengaging from the pressure plate fingers. You could spin the bearing, but it was far from free as there was quite a bit of resistance due to contact with the fingers. Also, when you turned it, the noise it made when rubbing against the fingers has me thinking now that that might have been the source of the 'whine' we were trying to find Saturday. We made a fairly significant adjustment in the adapter shaft to pull the throwout bearing back away from the pressure plate, and we added a stiff spring to the end of the clutch fork to make sure pulled away completely when the pedal was released.
When fully separated from the pressure plate, the throwout bearing spins freely and has no noticeable resistance or play. Would riding on the pressure plate have caused it to fail, and, if so, would it have whined/squealed before giving up the ghost?
A majority of the troubleshooting was done under the assumption that the throwout was being pushed too far into the pressure plate fingers and causing the clutch disc to retract from the flywheel too much....the thought being that the rattling was the actual disc making contact with the fingers inside the assembly. We made adjustments at the slave rod, at the pedal, and at the adapter shaft (as described above) to try to shorten the throw of the fork as much as possible, but none of that seemed to do much of anything. It seemed like, whatever adjustment we made, the throwout bearing moved pretty much the same distance. Also, what we found was that you could only shift into gear when the pedal was fully pressed and the noise was present. So, from a functional point of view, the throw of the fork seems to be exactly right, no???
The 'shims' you mention were not overlooked...they were PAINFULLY installed on the fork.
One of the many things we were troubleshooting Saturday (before all this clutch nonsense started) was a high pitched whine/squeal that would come and go at idle. We couldn't identify the source, but it sounded like a belt or pulley or idler. When we got under there yesterday to inspect the clutch area, one of the first things we noticed was that the throwout bearing was not fully disengaging from the pressure plate fingers. You could spin the bearing, but it was far from free as there was quite a bit of resistance due to contact with the fingers. Also, when you turned it, the noise it made when rubbing against the fingers has me thinking now that that might have been the source of the 'whine' we were trying to find Saturday. We made a fairly significant adjustment in the adapter shaft to pull the throwout bearing back away from the pressure plate, and we added a stiff spring to the end of the clutch fork to make sure pulled away completely when the pedal was released.
When fully separated from the pressure plate, the throwout bearing spins freely and has no noticeable resistance or play. Would riding on the pressure plate have caused it to fail, and, if so, would it have whined/squealed before giving up the ghost?
A majority of the troubleshooting was done under the assumption that the throwout was being pushed too far into the pressure plate fingers and causing the clutch disc to retract from the flywheel too much....the thought being that the rattling was the actual disc making contact with the fingers inside the assembly. We made adjustments at the slave rod, at the pedal, and at the adapter shaft (as described above) to try to shorten the throw of the fork as much as possible, but none of that seemed to do much of anything. It seemed like, whatever adjustment we made, the throwout bearing moved pretty much the same distance. Also, what we found was that you could only shift into gear when the pedal was fully pressed and the noise was present. So, from a functional point of view, the throw of the fork seems to be exactly right, no???
The 'shims' you mention were not overlooked...they were PAINFULLY installed on the fork.
I hate to ask, and I'm sure you didn't... But could the throw out bearing be installed backwards? I did it myself one time 
I guess it could be, but it seems like it came already pressed onto the adapter shaft.
Jrob will know...I think he's got a picture of it up close from yesterday as well.
Jrob will know...I think he's got a picture of it up close from yesterday as well.
jrob
Florence, MS
I am about positive it came on the shaft.
I can't say there is a permanent fix in this mix. My friend and I made a crucial initial error on our install/setup of the marks on my truck which was a few years ago...due in part to a crappy set of instructions (they have a better PDF document out now). We left the shims off the clutch fork because we had no knowledge they were required, so I just wanted to mention that so history does not repeat. The 2nd big gripe with me is the convoluted setup of the way you are suppose to setup the clearance on the throw-out bearing/spud shaft...etc (I recall that locking collar with something like a spanner wrench). I was never satisfied that this was a correct or a permanent solution as defined in the literature that was available. I spoke to ACC in depth about that and while I know they don't make the product...it was my take that you just "have to know" how to setup the marks kit from the school of hard knocks. I am running a stock GM (168tooth flywheel as I recall) and I run the matching center force clutch setup, recommended by AA.
My truck is a 86 60 and uses a different clutch slave, but I use the stock or correct clutch slave for my truck but I did have to get one of the adjustable slave rods and screw around with the length because I was having problems with the slave rod over-extending. I don't use a external spring on the clutch fork as the 86 60 did not come with that....but it was cause of concern because both my friend and were trying to brainstorm on what issues were in play regarding the throw-out bearing.
You might want to call Georg for some ideas...I would bet the issue is in the adjustment of that locking collar.
You guys may not have the same issue....especially since it showed up right after the initial setup. It sure sounds like its the throw-out bearing or something related.
My truck is a 86 60 and uses a different clutch slave, but I use the stock or correct clutch slave for my truck but I did have to get one of the adjustable slave rods and screw around with the length because I was having problems with the slave rod over-extending. I don't use a external spring on the clutch fork as the 86 60 did not come with that....but it was cause of concern because both my friend and were trying to brainstorm on what issues were in play regarding the throw-out bearing.
You might want to call Georg for some ideas...I would bet the issue is in the adjustment of that locking collar.
You guys may not have the same issue....especially since it showed up right after the initial setup. It sure sounds like its the throw-out bearing or something related.
Last edited:
Bomar
SILVER Star
What happened? I thought everythang was good.
It's a damn good thing y'all love that part of it.
What?
I'm guessing this is the easiest way to get to the Mark's clutchterfawk thingy.
fj40charles
SILVER Star
Any particular reason to use Mark's adapter besides not having to redo the driveshafts? I can't really think of any benefits of their adapters.
Boys wanted something to do this weekend. So they decided to leave a part out so they could yank it back out and put it in this weekend. s*** works!
But they are "learning a lot"
So what got left out?
