J-Robs truck saga (3 Viewers)

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If a shorter clutch hub is not available I would scrap the clutch and just run something like a 7 blade mechanical fan
 
Electric fan out of the question?
 
Taurus fan would be an option I would think

I think Taurus fans are made out of forming foam. They fit errythang!
I once saw a kid on a push scooter.... sumbitch had a taurus fan!

Mongoose-12-inch-Expo-Scooter--pTRU1-15815280dt.jpg
 
I think Taurus fans are made out of forming foam. They fit errythang!
I once saw a kid on a push scooter.... sumbitch had a taurus fan!

Mongoose-12-inch-Expo-Scooter--pTRU1-15815280dt.jpg

I don't know about scooters but I do know that they are thin, powerful and cheap. Two out of three things that I am not...
 
My fan clutch sits pretty close to the radiator too. My fan clutch and fan are a different year model and minor design differences. I've never had an issue with the fan eating the radiator, but I know it can happen...what the magic distance is I don't know...obviously you don't want the radiator to come in contact with the fan blades.

I like the GM fan clutch and fan on my truck...its the #1 cooling solution and I never have issues with cooling, since Ive been setup this way.

while not the greatest pic...we did get the engine to sit a little better square with the radiator core..after this pic was made.

I can get in there to roughly measure the distance between the core and the fan clutch if that would help you.. Obviously the fan clutch is fixed and the fan blades can walk forward to some degree, given the right conditions. So far I've had good cooling and no issues with damage to the fan blades, the radiator or shroud.

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you probably want to get some of those sock type spark plug boot heat shields that NAPA carries. The ram's horn manifolds will cook your spark plug boots otherwise. Unless the old school GM spark plug metal heat shields will bolt to the TBI cylinder heads. Those metal heat shields would not work on the vortec heads as I recall and I bought 8 of the sock type slip-on heat shields from NAPA after I cooked my first set of plug wires.

I'm sure there are different sources....here is one http://www.amazon.com/Protect-Shield-Thermal-Protection-Insulator/dp/B00178WH9G
They have worked well for me.
 
I agree with the boot protection.
 
Looking good Jrob. Make sure you keep a close eye on the motor mounts. Those donuts will flatten easily. I ended up getting rid of that motor mount setup since it allowing the engine/transmission to flex too much.
 
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/374071-tech-contest-cooling-v8.html

Read the whole thread, but here is the info ya asked about...., for an extra 1" use a clutch from a 94 350 TBI Impala-Roadmaster.............
Didn't read the whole link, but what I read was really good stuff!.........Gotta love 'MUD and the knowledge base here (and to other sources).

JRob, one other small thought (in case it wasn't mentioned further in Texican's link): at the outset, be sure to add a bottle of RedLine Water Wetter in with the coolant. When I was working at the dealership 20+ years ago, there were several models of Ferraris in the 80's that would run borderline hot in the MS summers. When we'd put a bottle in the cooling system, it would usually drop the temp enough to solve the problem. Since every few degrees helps - and since WW is supposed to offer benefits beyond just cooling - I thought this might be another piece of the puzzle. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
 
DNP he surely needs to do that on Stacys rig. That truck runs hot and he has done several things to try to remedy the overheating issue.
 
I battled cooling issues for years with my V8's and auto tranny's. Water wetter never worked for me. It always took more airflow, more radiators, more fans, more money. Stacy's rig is a bit different than Jrob's in that it has an auto tranny. That combo is harder to deal with.
 
My understanding is that Water Wetter is basically just a surfactant lowering the surface tension between the coolant and the metal. It's pretty well established that you can count on a few degrees of improvement. I have also been told by some pretty knowledgable race engine guys that adding a few drops of something like Dawn dish washing soap does just about the same thing. I, however, have never tried either so what do I know...
 
I've never had any issue with cooling a stock 350 TBI with an automatic. Just install a large radiator with a fan shroud and you'll be fine.
 
Thanks for all the input guys! I have 1" of clearance between the radiator and fan clutch fins and 13/4" inch between the radiator and fan blades. I am going to run it this way and see what happens, if I get into the radiator I will do something different. I will be in the shop tonight and get more pics.
 
Oil coolers with fans and trans coolers with fans help a lot. Did I mention they help a lot.
 
My CJ7 with a 401 would overheat after a couple of hours on the trail until I did a remote oil filter bracket with a cooler with an electric fan on it. It allowed me to continue using the mechanical fan and gave me more oil capacity.
 
I've never had any issue with cooling a stock 350 TBI with an automatic. Just install a large radiator with a fan shroud and you'll be fine.
In all the SBCs I've been around, this is usually the solution. The fact that you've got a new engine and a new radiator, I'm betting you won't even get close to running hot. As a general rule, a SBC, especially one with clean plumbing, is one of the easier engines to cool.
 

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