sailor
Jackass of all trades
Very cool catch can! Mine is getting into the very smoky blowby stage now so I have new pistons on the way. Nothing like smoke from both ends!
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #962
I'm all self taught from welding to wiring it just takes time and getting your hands dirty. One good thing if you are like me you have a photographic memory or close too it. It's helpful. Start off small, don't cut corners and work your way up from there. I started with $200 cars I would fix up and sell to learn on, bonus was making money on them in the end.
Thanks! Good luck on the rebuild.
- Thread starter
- #963
Went into local dealer today to get that oil valve ordered. They redeemed them selves, the parts girl I spoke with was very knoulagable and found the part in about 30sec thanks Lisa (Mat pass that on) The other guy would spend 5min trying to convince me they did not make a NPR in 87.
So pressure release valve order, should have it early next to week about the same time my oil pump comes in. Going to try the valve first since it's easy and maybe my problem. If that does not fix it the pan drops and I go from there. Going to pull the rod caps and take a look to make sure the bearings are not hammered. Then swap the pump, I'm also going to weld on a bung for the pre oiler system I have.
So pressure release valve order, should have it early next to week about the same time my oil pump comes in. Going to try the valve first since it's easy and maybe my problem. If that does not fix it the pan drops and I go from there. Going to pull the rod caps and take a look to make sure the bearings are not hammered. Then swap the pump, I'm also going to weld on a bung for the pre oiler system I have.
Pre oiler!
- Thread starter
- #965
Yep, looking for a check valve for it right now. [emoji6] I found some info on a similar primer and all of them have a one way check valve to prevent back flow when the engine starts. I can't tell if this kit has one I it or not. As you know there is no info on them now.
I suppose you have screwed another known good oil pressure gauge in just to double check your low oil pressure isn't just a dud gauge.
- Thread starter
- #967
Yep, tried two different mechanical gauges and two stock senders. All report the same slow cold start pressure build and low hot pressure.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
I dont want to re read this thread all the way but when re/re my alternator there is a stock piece of metal from the rad support back to the front of the engine closing off the gap at the bottom- no doubt to keep high pressure air under the truck. there is what appears to be a chunk of factory sound deadening material on it. independent of fan shroud.
- Thread starter
- #969
Yes, mine has the same just with out the sound deadner.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
ok
- Thread starter
- #971
So got a bunch of parts today. I got the fan clutch and fan from Doug720 and two beers! Thanks for the beers! They went down great today working on it.
I also picked up my oil pump and pressure releaf value. I got the pan dropped and old pump out. I also removed two rod caps and checked the bearings. The all looked like new, no damage at all. So no damage was done with the low pressure.
Got the new pump and valve back in then buttoned it all up. The valve required loosening of the injection pump to get it out of the galley. The new valve from Isuzu did not require the pump to me moved it looks like they slightly changed the head of the valve to allow easy service.
That took me most the day so I did not swap the fan clutch H and fan today. Plan to do that in the next few days.
I was able to prime the oil system and start it seemed to run fine despite my efforts ;p.
Hope to do a cold start tomorrow to see if pressure builds any faster. Next test will be hot pressure and see if its any better. If it's not I'm going to tell myself it's normal and move on, I have replaced everything that would cause it and there is not dead bottom end bearings.
I also picked up my oil pump and pressure releaf value. I got the pan dropped and old pump out. I also removed two rod caps and checked the bearings. The all looked like new, no damage at all. So no damage was done with the low pressure.
Got the new pump and valve back in then buttoned it all up. The valve required loosening of the injection pump to get it out of the galley. The new valve from Isuzu did not require the pump to me moved it looks like they slightly changed the head of the valve to allow easy service.
That took me most the day so I did not swap the fan clutch H and fan today. Plan to do that in the next few days.
I was able to prime the oil system and start it seemed to run fine despite my efforts ;p.
Hope to do a cold start tomorrow to see if pressure builds any faster. Next test will be hot pressure and see if its any better. If it's not I'm going to tell myself it's normal and move on, I have replaced everything that would cause it and there is not dead bottom end bearings.
Do these engines have solid or hydraulic lifters/cups/push rods/ followers. ??
- Thread starter
- #973
Solid
Polar Bear
Is it supposed to sound like that?
Way back when I worked at the port of Tacoma, I recall one of the grizzled old reefer mechanics holding court about the diesel engine. He said that the rule of thumb is ten pounds of oil pressure per thousand RPM when hot is perfectly acceptable. I've always followed that advice and never scored a bearing, so hopefully it gives you something to reference while performing your testing.
- Thread starter
- #975
So great news!! My slow oil pressure build on cold start is gone. Before the parts swap it was 8-9 sec before pressure would build in the system. Now it's 3-4 at cold start after 16hours of time for it to settle.
Very happy with that result and the change that came along with the work yesterday. I have no time right now to do a run and see what the hot idle pressure is but I'm hopeful it's good as well.
I'm going to swap the fan clutch tonight or tomorrow and see if the cooling system issue is sorted then take it up a 4km road that goes from sea level to 1200m and see what it does. If it does that with out issue I'll call it good. The weather here has now cooled off so I will not get to test in hot conditions till next june/July.
If it's all good I can finally move onto finishing up the last 5% and make it a full driver again.
Very happy with that result and the change that came along with the work yesterday. I have no time right now to do a run and see what the hot idle pressure is but I'm hopeful it's good as well.
I'm going to swap the fan clutch tonight or tomorrow and see if the cooling system issue is sorted then take it up a 4km road that goes from sea level to 1200m and see what it does. If it does that with out issue I'll call it good. The weather here has now cooled off so I will not get to test in hot conditions till next june/July.
If it's all good I can finally move onto finishing up the last 5% and make it a full driver again.
Thats great news!! Did you end up doing the pump and relief at the same time? Or one then the other? Wh
- Thread starter
- #977
I did them both at the same time, I did want to try the relief valve first but it tested with the same pressure to open on the bench as the old one. So I decided to just replace both. I have a feeling it was the pump. I'm going to inspect the pump when I get some free time to see if I can find the issues.
I'm very happy no damage was done to the bottom end and that the pressure is so fast to build now. Big weight off my shoulders. If the cooling issue is finally resolved I'll be on cloud 9.
Here's to cloud number 9
I was hoping the beer made it to you intact! Thought you could use a little distraction of some "Foreign" libations.
I was hoping the beer made it to you intact! Thought you could use a little distraction of some "Foreign" libations.
Congratulation on your perserverence!
- Thread starter
- #980
Yep made it intact!
Thank you! Feeling like I'm on the right path now.
So today was a sucsess. I did a road test for about an hour. Lots of highway driving from 90-110km/hr. Went well no over heating or even getting hot. I still have the locked fan clutch on so that I hope is not scuing the results too much. I plan to swap the clutch and fan in the next week.
The oil pressure is awesome now. After 30min on the hwy pressure was 16-17psi at 800rpm idle. So I am very happy with that. Down side is the oil pan and pump drive cap above the cam are both leaking like an Exxon tanker in Alaska. I knew putting the pan back on I should not have used the paper oil pan gasket and re done the silicone. Problem was I had the gasket and did not have silicone. So now I get to go through it again and do it right with silicone. [emoji19]
Lastly was the fuel, I over corrected and turned the fuel down too much. It still drives fine but only makes 9psi at 2000rpm and EGT's maxed at 950f. I have a feeling the fix for this is 1) more fuel 2) 6cm turbine housing to drive the compressor harder.
Going to order the turbine in the next few days.
I have a trip planned in 2 weeks to Penticton about 4-5 hours drive away over the coastal mountains so it's going to get a good test. Fingers crossed it's going to be successful.
In the mean time I need to get my Baja rack on and have ordered Kargo rack gutter mounts for it.
So great day despite the oil leaks. Plan to fix this up in a few days.
