Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

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Today I worked on the truck for a bit today. Am not driving the truck anymore till I find the oil pressure issue. It was far too wet to work on it out side so I worked on my PCV catch can. I wanted to make something g larger than the stock one and something that uses a cyclone type movement to pull the oil out of the air.

I started with a 12" long 3" pipe and a 9" long 2.25" pipe. I then made end plates. At the top of the 3" pipe I blended in a 5/8" inlet that will be fed by the valve covercover outlet. This will create the rotation in the air casting the oil out to the wall. The 2.25 pipe keeps this rotation going down about 9" by that time I would hope most or the large particles of oil are out. From there the air needs to make a 180* turn and go all the way back up to the top 3/4" outlet that will go into the intake pipe.











I also have a drain at the bottom for the oil to go back to the crank case with the factory check valve to keep oil from getting syphon from the pan under boost.

Guess I forgot to get picks of it done. Will get some next time.

I'll pump is on the way as is a new pressure releaf valve. Hope that fixes my oil pressure issue.
 
Excellent idea.
Thanks, I think the credit goes to you though. I vaguely remember you posting somewhere a description of a PCV can. So I went off that and a few of my assumptions of air flow and knowledge of some cyclonic filtering systems. I hope it works well, my main worry is restriction and oil syphon from the pan.

I think it will work well but truth is in the testing.
 
Thanks, I think the credit goes to you though. I vaguely remember you posting somewhere a description of a PCV can. So I went off that and a few of my assumptions of air flow and knowledge of some cyclonic filtering systems. I hope it works well, my main worry is restriction and oil syphon from the pan.

I think it will work well but truth is in the testing.

Yeah it's the same basic design as the one I made years ago. Just my one was too small, particularly the inlet. Yours should be sweet.

I need to build a new one myself at some stage to replace the provent.
 
Cool. I was thinking of adding a Venturi to my exhaust to add Vacume to the crankcase and add a filtered inlet of air to the oil pan to help dilute the blowby gasses in the crankcase and decrease soot in my oil and was looking for an efficient oil separator so as not to waste a lot of oil mist that floats around I there. Is it all cyclonic action or do you have baffles to help the oil drop out? I was going to get one based on a coaleser but maybe yours is less complicated.
 
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Cool. I was thinking of adding a Venturi to my exhaust to add Vacume to the crankcase and add a filtered inlet of air to the oil pan to help dilute the blowby gasses in the crankcase and decrease soot in my oil and was looking for an efficient oil separator so as not to waste a lot of oil mist that floats around I there. Is it all cyclonic action or do you have baffles to help the oil drop out? I was going to get one based on a coaleser but maybe yours is less complicated.

The cyclone throws the oil against the sides and seperates it smoothly. Baffles splash a bit. You can put in as many stages of centrifuge as you like, they just get more and more fiddly to make. Using lots of length means gravity helps a lot too.
 
I had a hard time getting one stage of cyclone generators lined up right. I hope this will be enough, think it will be better than the mini baffled catch can it had to start.
 
Could one of you good folk draw the circuit of this system please. Unless there is something available on the net.
Is the OEM setup not up to scratch because of the increased turbo pressure??

It's more to do with the fact that the OEM system vents to the atmosphere and it needs better oil separation before plumbing into the intake to stop oil build-up in the intercooler and excessive oil loss via the intake. Higher levels of boost = more blow by. That oil mist smell seems to get into the cabin & permeate everything if it's left vented to atmosphere.
 
It's more to do with the fact that the OEM system vents to the atmosphere and it needs better oil separation before plumbing into the intake to stop oil build-up in the intercooler and excessive oil loss via the intake. Higher levels of boost = more blow by. That oil mist smell seems to get into the cabin & permeate everything if it's left vented to atmosphere.
That is exactly why I'm venting it back in. Really do not like the smell and seeing the smoke come out of breathers always scares me lol.

Even with out the stock catch can I did not have any oil coming out just a mist, not drips or spray.
 
A quick squizz show most systems do not drain, therefore would need periodic emptying. It sounds as if yours will drain back into the sump?? is there a valve to stop sump oil pushing up if below the line or sump gas pushing up if above the oil line?
I'm unfortunately a frustrated, wouldlovetohavebeen, auto engineer and dyslexic, so I just love pictures. ( and spell check).
 
But if you stop the oil mist and drips, what will stop our LandCruisers from rusting?:)

The catch can looks good.

I made a pair for my boat from PVC pipe and they help a lot. It had 6BTA's with manifold intercoolers, and having the mist and oil plumbed into the intake was terrible.
 
Wait, you guys don't like that smell?

After changing the oil with 15W40 rotella it smells like an oil refinery!!!
 
Could one of you good folk draw the circuit of this system please. Unless there is something available on the net.
Is the OEM setup not up to scratch because of the increased turbo pressure??

The circuit has an inlet from the 4BD1T rocker cover which on Jeremy's and my setup runs tangentially to create a vortex inside and throw oil against the walls.
There is an outlet at the top centre (where it is hardest for the oil to be) which diverts back to the intake pre-turbo.
There is a drain at the bottom which returns collected oil to the sump.

4BD1T's have an external seperator from the factory. This is just improving it.

A quick squizz show most systems do not drain, therefore would need periodic emptying. It sounds as if yours will drain back into the sump?? is there a valve to stop sump oil pushing up if below the line or sump gas pushing up if above the oil line?
I'm unfortunately a frustrated, wouldlovetohavebeen, auto engineer and dyslexic, so I just love pictures. ( and spell check).

Because the 4BD1T's run an external seperator from the factory they have much higher oil volumes collected than an engine with internal seperation. This means it needs a drain or you'll risk filling the can and feeding the liquid oil back to your turbo and intake (a bad thing).

There is no problem with oil free draining as the tube extends to below the oil level in the sump. When the system works the oil height is only a few cm up the drain tube and in no danger of sucking oil back to the engine.
But be extremely careful with aftermarket solutions. Most of them are rubbish.
 
It's unbelievable how incompetent some parts people are. I need a oil pressure release valve. I went I to the dealer the other day and got a price. Call back today and they guy I talk too tells me he can't look it up if someone else looked it up already for me and to call back in the morning and ask if they know who was dealing with it??? I work in the mornings and am unable to call, his response was getting it on line in the US...... I mean come on! All they do us bitch about losing business south of the border then when you want to give them business they tell you to order it of the US. There is something very broken in the local dealer and it seems to be on incompetent counter parts man. Such a pass off dealing with stuff like that some times.
 
A quick squizz show most systems do not drain, therefore would need periodic emptying. It sounds as if yours will drain back into the sump?? is there a valve to stop sump oil pushing up if below the line or sump gas pushing up if above the oil line?
I'm unfortunately a frustrated, wouldlovetohavebeen, auto engineer and dyslexic, so I just love pictures. ( and spell check).
I'm dyslexic as well, never let it stop me in the past. Adapt and overcome.

The isuzu has a oil return line to the sump, mine has a one way check valve of sorts in it too to prevent oil from going to wrong way.
 
But if you stop the oil mist and drips, what will stop our LandCruisers from rusting?:)

The catch can looks good.

I made a pair for my boat from PVC pipe and they help a lot. It had 6BTA's with manifold intercoolers, and having the mist and oil plumbed into the intake was terrible.
Mine is full into the rust stage so no point starting the oil down now. [emoji6]

I do still soak down the underside of it every fall and spring with diesel though. It's really seemed to stop the spread of rust for the most part. Just need to do it in a gravel parking lot at night
 
If you want you can do it on the part of my driveway that's gravel. I need the weeds gone. I hear ya on the parts guys. I hate ordering a part and the guy tells me it's no longer available when I bought one at the same place the day before. I've never heard the I can't cus someone looked it up before one though. We should start a thread on parts guys just to vent.
 
I'm dyslexic as well, never let it stop me in the past. Adapt and overcome.

Amen to that. I am very proud of being a 5volt engineer by training, but being self taught in auto stuff and building vehicles that don't come home on flatbeds.
Turbo diesels are my new interest, and I'm learning fast, forums like this assist greatly in that.

Good luck with you "niggels" list, you are on the point of getting it all together.
G
 
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