I gotcha. That would work pretty well! Room is tight under the hood though. I'll be looking at compounds in the future as well.
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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I gotcha. That would work pretty well! Room is tight under the hood though. I'll be looking at compounds in the future as well.
- Thread starter
- #262
Yeah I'm not going down that path unless I get crazy and put 12mm plungers in my pump. Then I could use all the air available from the compounds. I would have serious transmission strength worries at that point though. Main use of this truck is longer range off road travel so i have a feeling compounds and a hot pump may have an effect on that goal. Sure would be fun though.
I somewhat agree doug that the hy35 might be a tad big as the large in a compound for the 3.9, but its really hard to find a turbo in this size range that is readily available for cheap. If you go a bit larger then the holsets size much better as in the 1hdt range. I was thinking of a td06 20g or something like that with a twin scroll 10cm housing, but it would have to be bought piece by piece and would end up costing quite a bit and still be an experiment, although you could mix and match the exhaust housings to sort it out. I agree that it is a waste of time unless he gets larger plungers and really fuels up.
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- #264
Had a few hours to burn today so got to work on the filter housing. I was able to drill the remaining hole in about 20min so was much better than the larger one yesterday. Once I had the hole drilled I took a rat tail file and cleaned out any burs or fillings then washe it down with break clean to make sure it was good. Then I took some 180 grit sand paper and sanded down all the surfaces to get rid of any marks from the vise and drill press. Cleaned up good so gave it ine more spray down with break clean and called it good.
All ready to start:
Plug in and all sealed with liquid teflon:
All sanded and ready to go:
All bolted into place for the last time:
I adjusted the fuel feed and return line to allow room for a large bypass filter if i fit one. I also fit the small hard oil line and it fits really well cant see any issues with it.
Still got lots of clearance even with a large bypass filter (i will be running the smaller Baldwin filter on my engine).
Fuel lines may stick out a bit far so may need to adjust when i get it in the engine bay.
I also got a few more boring bits bolted on the engine.
All ready to start:
Plug in and all sealed with liquid teflon:
All sanded and ready to go:
All bolted into place for the last time:
I adjusted the fuel feed and return line to allow room for a large bypass filter if i fit one. I also fit the small hard oil line and it fits really well cant see any issues with it.
Still got lots of clearance even with a large bypass filter (i will be running the smaller Baldwin filter on my engine).
Fuel lines may stick out a bit far so may need to adjust when i get it in the engine bay.
I also got a few more boring bits bolted on the engine.
That filter bracket your made looks really slick J.
I like the bypass filter deal as well. That motor keeps impressing me the closer I look at it.
I like the bypass filter deal as well. That motor keeps impressing me the closer I look at it.
- Thread starter
- #266
Thanks! Im really happy with the way its turned out.
Yes its a cool little engine, lots of really good ideas and design elements. It truly was an engine made with a long service life in mind. After all the research I did on this and other motors I knew if I was going to go with a non Toyota engine this would be the one.
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- #268
Thanks Don, yes I did not want it going anywhere
I'm glad I sent as thick as I did since I did not have a mill to make the holes I was worried about bit walk as it drilled but surprisingly had none.
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- #269
Today I ordered 4 new Nozzles for my rebuilt injectors. One of the OEM nozzles was showing too much bypass on the return so needed a new tip.
Longbow gave me the contact information for this company and they had what I needed in stock and it will be here Friday.
http://www.usdiesel.com/contactus.htm
Once they come in I just need to have the crack pressures set.
Longbow gave me the contact information for this company and they had what I needed in stock and it will be here Friday.
http://www.usdiesel.com/contactus.htm
Once they come in I just need to have the crack pressures set.
- Thread starter
- #270
So only had a couple hours to work on it this weekend. My engine came with out lift points so I needed to get something made. I used some scrap 1/4" angle iron I had laying around so I fashioned a lift point out of it. Turned out ok, my only worry is it clearing the firewall. The throttle arm bracket got modified as well to remove the PCV catch can since it will be remote mounted. Not getting it painted till I get the engine in and know I do not need to change it any more.
I also got the VB out of both of my A440 trans missions, the unknown millage one I got for $100 out of SoCal looks to be in very good condition it was the first time the pan has been off from the looks of it and there was almost no debris in the bottom and the filter was clean.
My Nozzles showed up as well so as soon as I have time to run them up to get the crack pressures set I will. My 2nd Volvo turbo I ordered a few weeks ago should be here tomorrow too so I can get that project done.
I also got the VB out of both of my A440 trans missions, the unknown millage one I got for $100 out of SoCal looks to be in very good condition it was the first time the pan has been off from the looks of it and there was almost no debris in the bottom and the filter was clean.
My Nozzles showed up as well so as soon as I have time to run them up to get the crack pressures set I will. My 2nd Volvo turbo I ordered a few weeks ago should be here tomorrow too so I can get that project done.
Just a quick one here!!
Do I see glow plugs in a direct injection engine??? Or is it Indirect.
Just wondering?
G
Do I see glow plugs in a direct injection engine??? Or is it Indirect.
Just wondering?
G
- Thread starter
- #272
Hi Gengis,
Yes you see Glow Plugs in a DI engine, not uncommon and good for where I live. This engine does not need glow down to about 0c below that it makes cold starting much easier. I will have a manual glow switch on mine for the few times a year I need it. If I find I need glow any more than that I will install a glow timer.
The ALH and i think BEW turbo diesel engines from VW/Audi are both direct injected w/ glow plugs. Dunno about later VAG TDI designs.
I hear tell of some newer direct injected diesels that have a heated grid of metal across the intake side of the cylinder, which is pre-heated when starting the engine and is monitored like a hot-wire MAF (temperature of the grid as a function of resistance) so the computer knows when it needs more juice - which under normal running conditions is basically never. These are 'never needs replacing' sort of parts.
Can you tell that i think that adding computational logic to an engine is awesome? I think the problems people attribute to new technology are more likely attributable to insufficient testing and quality control. But I work in software quality assurance, and have since the 90's.
- Thread starter
- #274
Yes I know most the VAG diesels run glow systems screens or plugs. Toyota started using glow screens back in the late 80's but then went back to plugs on most there Diesels. Cummins has use glow screens for a long time.
The Glow plugs on the 4BD1T are kind of a life time part as well since they are hardly ever used. I was going to replace them but upon testing where good and glow fast so no need to replace. I will see how the systems works once I get it swapped in. I am also going to be running a 1400W circulating block heater as well so glow required will be minimal I hope. We are kind of jumping a head here though this will all be covered at a later date.
The Glow plugs on the 4BD1T are kind of a life time part as well since they are hardly ever used. I was going to replace them but upon testing where good and glow fast so no need to replace. I will see how the systems works once I get it swapped in. I am also going to be running a 1400W circulating block heater as well so glow required will be minimal I hope. We are kind of jumping a head here though this will all be covered at a later date.
Very nice work Jeremy.
You are putting a lot of thought and design into what you are doing.
It's pretty damn cool to watch.
You are putting a lot of thought and design into what you are doing.
It's pretty damn cool to watch.
- Thread starter
- #276
Very nice work Jeremy.
You are putting a lot of thought and design into what you are doing.
It's pretty damn cool to watch.
Thank you very much! Huge compliment and I appreciate it.
Would not be where I am with this project if I had not got a PM from you about the engine and I thank you for that.
I like you was/am a Toyota die hard I felt going with this was a good compromise between cost and the over all end package. No doubt after having this engine all town down I am very happy I went with this 4BD, really good build quality in parts and design. Parts are fairly easy to get, I would say on par with most the Toyota parts I have needed to get locally. Its still not a 1HD-t but I am happy with my choice and the $4-5K difference in engine swap cost gets me a lot of diesel.
For anyone following this so far and thinking it maybe something they want to do. I cant stress enough with a swap like this how important it is to have a plan and research all you can and more before getting started. Having some background with swaps and engines is good and makes it easier but its not required. Resources like MUD and 4BTswaps as well as those who have done it are great but in the end you are the one doing the swap and spending the time. The quality of the end product is directly related to the time and care you put into the swap. From experience with swaps the last thing you want to do is start saying "its good enough for now I can come back later and do it right" do it right the first time and life will be much better.
My 4BD1T has glow plugs that were never hooked up. It starts fine in -10C (24v starting) but at those temps needs a little extra pedal to keep idling for the first 20 seconds or so.
My VAG tdi (BMM) has glow plugs, my Nissan tdi also. IME it's only really toyota and cummins that screwed around with glow-screens. Turns out it's bad for air-flow to put a mesh screen across the intake.
Perkins had a hot fuel starting system way back. A lot of tractors ran it.
- Thread starter
- #278
Yeah I started mine when I first got the engine in 0-5c with no glow and startled the hell out of myself, was just trying to make sure it turned over. Fired up in 1/4 a revolution.
24V cranking helps a lot in cold weather starting I would think? I will just be 12V starting with 1000cca. I'm tempted to fit a heated (electric) fuel/water separator and a engine oil pan heating mat to the fuel tank for when we are in the Prairies in the winter (-30c). We are also planing a winter trip to the Arctic Ocean but for that I would need a Wabasto or something diesel fuelled. Got along was to go till I start worrying about those projects.
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- #279
Got my second TD04HL from a Volvo off Ebay. This one with a 13g compressor and a larger straight turbine discharge not the early conical. This Turbo was sold as a runner....yeah right. There was actually bits of aluminum in the turbine housing from something in the engine. Fortunately it did not damage the turbine or the housing.
Here you can see the size difference between the older conical and the newer flange type. The newer is the lower of the two.
New also has a larger waste gate flapper and a much less restricted exhaust exit (2.5" ID).
Older conical flange smaller flapper and much more restrictive (2" outlet and heavily offset from turbine).
Sold as a usable turbo....yuck
Fortunately the parts I need off it (turbine and housing) are in good shape. The old turbine housing also has a large crack from Waste gate almost to turbine. Im a bit worried about the shaft from this turbo as it looks well cooked with oil and possibly some ware on the journals.
I also installed my new Injector nozzles tonight so they are all ready to go.
Here you can see the size difference between the older conical and the newer flange type. The newer is the lower of the two.
New also has a larger waste gate flapper and a much less restricted exhaust exit (2.5" ID).
Older conical flange smaller flapper and much more restrictive (2" outlet and heavily offset from turbine).
Sold as a usable turbo....yuck
Fortunately the parts I need off it (turbine and housing) are in good shape. The old turbine housing also has a large crack from Waste gate almost to turbine. Im a bit worried about the shaft from this turbo as it looks well cooked with oil and possibly some ware on the journals.
I also installed my new Injector nozzles tonight so they are all ready to go.
Wow man nasty compressor. Much better flow on that new housing though. Im thinking the bits of alum in the turbine housing came fromthe compressor. I would go for a credit or something off that seller or smack him with a bad report. I always read negative reports before I buy anyhting off ebay.
