Is this too much rust for california (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 13, 2021
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Socal
Hi I'm new and looking at a SF bay 100 With seemingly more rust than it should have for a california vehicle. I'm looking to wrench on it myself and I'm worried this will make it a chore compared to other rust free examples. Should I even bother? Thanks

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Wouldn't stress it. My 88 4Runner has more discoloration than that and it's been a Sacramento/Placer County rig it's entire life.
 
not seeing any serious rust, just light surface corrosion, which is no problem at all is you will keep it in California outside of beaches and snow. Seems fine to me.
 
Some degreaser, a stiff-bristled brush, and a pressure washer would likely clear most of that up. The frame looks dirty, not rusty. The first picture posted shows where someone wiped some of the dirty off.
 
The AHC accumulator tube appears to have one rusty, maybe just dirty, mounting bolt.

You're golden.
 
Looks good, no titanicish crust, that’s all light surface that will easily come off and won’t lead to bolt snappage when working on it. Pb blaster is good to use anyways.
 
I’d be much more concerned about the the amount of money you’re going to have to pour into it to fix everything. Steering rack is leaking, cv axles are leaking like hell, control arm bushings are likely shot, ball joints probably need replaced, AHC is in need of at least some work, wheel bearings are probably loose AF and have no grease, etc.
 
Yeah I saw the CV boots and I was kinda figuring everything else in that picture is almost toast.
Here's the ahc pics between high and low. If I'm not mistaken it's at 6 notches? The first is in high mode then the next is in low. What am I working with?

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I count 9.

Much easier to illuminate the side/corner with flashlight (back towards engine block) and look in thru top fill hole.
 
Yeah I saw the CV boots and I was kinda figuring everything else in that picture is almost toast.
Here's the ahc pics between high and low. If I'm not mistaken it's at 6 notches? The first is in high mode then the next is in low. What am I working with?

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I see 6 or 7. Not great. If neutral pressures are out of whack, that number may shift around a little, but as a buyer, that right there gives you some leverage. Move the price $1k for that, IMO. Not worth passing on the car over price negotiations, but at 6-9 ticks you're towards the end of life on the gas chambers.
 
Yes, I'm blind and an optimist. Unless it comes to lasers as I'm a bit of a Debbie Downer due to experience.

I see less than 7 too.
 
The vehicle has a sensor lift. If the pressures are to high assuming the owner didn't adjust it back to normal. Would it cause a lower reading?
 
Leaky Boot!
That surface ‘rust’ will come off - rust remover/wire brush. Just be careful because some of the bolts (engine tray) might be corroded /seized and will break if too much torque used — hit them with a propane torch to loosen them up, then penetrating oil.

What I would be more concerned with is body rust, look around windshield and rear window (under weatherstrip).

here's 2 more, dont mind the yellow flashlight
 
The vehicle has a sensor lift. If the pressures are to high assuming the owner didn't adjust it back to normal. Would it cause a lower reading?
It seems contrary to the theory as I can noodle it, but yes, perhaps. We seem to read about people that get more ticks from lower pressures.

Per the manual, the gradation test shall be done after neutral pressures are in spec so it's hard to put numbers on any kind of pressure effect.

Regardless, new globes are only $750. Not a huge deal in the grand scheme. Worn CVs can cost you $1200+ to repair correctly. Brake master assembly is $2500+. Windshield rust can be $2500+, etc...
 
Dude, what rust?

GM/Ford/Ram trucks after one winter in the midwest look far worse than what you have. Seriously.
 
Just want to say thanks for all the replies. I ended up passing on the vehicle mainly because it was too far to casually check out and the maintenance was questionable.This Forum rocks thanks everyone
 

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