Is this an F or 2F motor?

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OK, I don't have a year or tranny to go off of so this is for the mudites.

My F has the oil filter on the driver's side. This motor ,in the picture, has the oil filter on the passenger side. The tag on the block is F 553488 so is this an F or 2F. If it is an F, why is the oil filter on the passenger side and what year did they change sides if it is an F?
xatdfr.jpg

2uduhjt.jpg
 
I'm gonna guess an say 1974 or 1975 F series.



It is not a 2F. They all came with Aluminum valve covers. The PCV valve is also in the wrong location for a 2F but I really think someone put the valve train plate on upside down.


The studs on the ends of the heads did not apear until after 1976 in the FJ40's. I have a 76 and it does not have them.
 
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definetly not a 2f, i believe 2fs had the pcv hole towards the firewall of the engine compartment, also the non aluminum valve cover is a give away that it's not a 2f. Possibly a later model f, maybe an f155
 
It's a 1974 F motor. Sept or Oct.

That's what mine looked like. A '74 "F-and-a-half" transitional motor. Either that or a 426 wedge;)
The studs on the ends might be due to a header install......


Ed
 
Is it true that the late F motors have the better oil system like the 2f motors?
 
The best F-engine

Is it true that the late F motors have the better oil system like the 2f motors?
Forget that stuff about a special engine for the FJ55, they are the same as the 40 engines. Mountainman got it right. What you have there is the holy grail of the F engines. Treat her good. I hear but don't know for sure that the heads swap with the 2F, basically the same. 9 to 1 compresion domed pistons like the 2f, 4 rings per piston like the F. Non-bypass oil liltration like the 2f. f bore. So what it boils down to is all of the best features of both engines combined in one year. You are a lucky dog. Going to rebuild it? There are 0.040 over pistons available. If you do rebuild an f, make it the 74. ps Castings that year were some of the hardest. Right up there with the buick straight six. Harder is better to a point, higher wear resistance. my 74f only lost a 0.001 cylinder wall after who knows how many miles.
 
That's what mine looked like. A '74 "F-and-a-half" transitional motor. Either that or a 426 wedge;)
The studs on the ends might be due to a header install......


Ed

I've got one just like it sitting in the garage,after putting a 2F in mine.
You're right,it does look a little like the old 426 wedge!:D
 
Forget that stuff about a special engine for the FJ55, they are the same as the 40 engines. Mountainman got it right. What you have there is the holy grail of the F engines. Treat her good. I hear but don't know for sure that the heads swap with the 2F, basically the same. 9 to 1 compresion domed pistons like the 2f, 4 rings per piston like the F. Non-bypass oil liltration like the 2f. f bore. So what it boils down to is all of the best features of both engines combined in one year. You are a lucky dog. Going to rebuild it? There are 0.040 over pistons available. If you do rebuild an f, make it the 74. ps Castings that year were some of the hardest. Right up there with the buick straight six. Harder is better to a point, higher wear resistance. my 74f only lost a 0.001 cylinder wall after who knows how many miles.

I have a '74 F from an FJ55 in my '70 FJ40. What period constituted the "holy grail" of F engines?
 
Well why don't you just get the block number and post it already!



The tag on the block is F 553488



He did. ;)




The studs on the ends of the heads did not apear until after 1976 in the FJ40's. I have a 76 and it does not have them.


The factory used 10mm bolts in those holes, not studs....





The PCV valve is also in the wrong location for a 2F but I really think someone put the valve train plate on upside down.




Physically impossible to do.

Look at the bolt holes....





:beer:
 
Forget that stuff about a special engine for the FJ55, they are the same as the 40 engines. Mountainman got it right. What you have there is the holy grail of the F engines. Treat her good. I hear but don't know for sure that the heads swap with the 2F, basically the same. 9 to 1 compresion domed pistons like the 2f, 4 rings per piston like the F. Non-bypass oil liltration like the 2f. f bore. So what it boils down to is all of the best features of both engines combined in one year. You are a lucky dog. Going to rebuild it? There are 0.040 over pistons available. If you do rebuild an f, make it the 74. ps Castings that year were some of the hardest. Right up there with the buick straight six. Harder is better to a point, higher wear resistance. my 74f only lost a 0.001 cylinder wall after who knows how many miles.

Yes a rebuild is in the future. What a nice surprise. This was trade deal for a good family tent and brake parts from my end. It was "rebuilt" in the past but the person I got it from was told that and he is checking the paperwork to see how extensive it was for me. Obviously the orange paint probably indicates a cam and head job, but I don't know until I pull it apart. It was probably a rebuild from inside the rig and the lower block was never touched. Lots of oil sludge and the rear main is shot. Little bit of rust in the manifold water ports area and silicon seal instead of true gaskets.

I am lucky enough to be a teacher at a school that has a very good auto shop so most of the work will be farmed out with the shop teacher taking the role as the master mechanic. I'll keep the posts going along the build.

I'll look into the 0.040 over pistons.


So give me an idea of a wish build part list of what you would do with the engine, specifically the ignition plans for it and what not.
 
Slick, I would get a big cap fully electronic diz along with the coil and ignitor from an FJ60. You'll also need the "dented" side cover from the same vehicle.
You will most likely need to reroute the PCV hose, but that's NBD.

GL

That is a good motor.:beer:
 
I have a '74 F from an FJ55 in my '70 FJ40. What period constituted the "holy grail" of F engines?
Don't know for sure but doubt mountainman when he says for a couple months only. Bet it ran the whole model year. And forget that stuff about no aluminum covers on the f. Mine has um. No doubt it is an f because I set calipers to the bore.
 
Yes a rebuild is in the future. What a nice surprise. This was trade deal for a good family tent and brake parts from my end. It was "rebuilt" in the past but the person I got it from was told that and he is checking the paperwork to see how extensive it was for me. Obviously the orange paint probably indicates a cam and head job, but I don't know until I pull it apart. It was probably a rebuild from inside the rig and the lower block was never touched. Lots of oil sludge and the rear main is shot. Little bit of rust in the manifold water ports area and silicon seal instead of true gaskets.

I am lucky enough to be a teacher at a school that has a very good auto shop so most of the work will be farmed out with the shop teacher taking the role as the master mechanic. I'll keep the posts going along the build.

I'll look into the 0.040 over pistons.


So give me an idea of a wish build part list of what you would do with the engine, specifically the ignition plans for it and what not.
sure no prob. Prior suggestion sound good for your ignition. I went with the Toyota high performance from Spector. It has the nifty little altitude adjust on its' side and 32deg total advance. Downey sells a 40deg total advance unit and insists the f need it. Haven't talked to anybody about there Downey, more dollars though. I replaced the points with a petronix. A couple other goodies, maybe a Downey torquer cam and Downey valve springs. Stainless steel valves and trick seats would be nice. If you have to replace the pushrods with new then will have to buy new rocker to boot because the old length rods are no longer available. Get a freezeplug kit from Spector, they work much better than the others I've dealt with. maybe port the heads! YA. Don't do like i done, get the good headers. Man-a-fre and Downey sell them. Make sure the header flange is the same thickness as your intake man. Might not want to trust Mech completely, f are famous leakers because people don't know how to seal them up. Too simple, Factory toy manuals tell how to do it.
 
Don't know for sure but doubt mountainman when he says for a couple months only. Bet it ran the whole model year. And forget that stuff about no aluminum covers on the f. Mine has um. No doubt it is an f because I set calipers to the bore.

rsbcrusier,I just went into sor.com and looked in the FAQ's.It shows that motor number was made in 1974,around Aug,Sept,or Oct.
 
And forget that stuff about no aluminum covers on the f. Mine has um.


Sure, and that aluminum cover was originally on a 2F.


The F engine came with a stamped-steel cover for it's whole production run.


:beer:
 
Aside from the color it looks just like my 74 transitional motor.
 

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