Is there a write up on replacing valve stem seals? (1 Viewer)

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Then having a valve spring compressor that will work without holding the valve head and be able to pull against the bare top of the cylinder head 48 times and be able to reach into the recess where the valve retainer is located with the valve spring compressed. Head bolts can come out with the cams pulled.
 
easier to pull the head, but at 400k I would look at a rebuild or crate engine from toyota, last time I looked a longblock wasn't that bad.. 1fz is a great motor but you are getting close to wearing it out..
 
easier to pull the head, but at 400k I would look at a rebuild or crate engine from toyota, last time I looked a longblock wasn't that bad.. 1fz is a great motor but you are getting close to wearing it out..


Not in my budget and if I really needed to dig that deep into the motor, I'd probably do an LSx swap.
That being said, I've replaced valve seals on many motors without pulling the heads before using the right tools, but I have yet to do it on a 1FZ :hmm:

My main concern is whether or not the tool I have will fit :oops: (they're are several sizes and I only have one that is mostly universal)
I know of a few guys that did them without pulling the head on the Aussie forums, but didn't see any write ups :meh:
 
We replace valve stem seals on car all the time. I have never done a 1fz, but if you can get to the valve springs with the cams out, it should be possible. You can use a compression tester hose with the valve core removed to supply air to the cylinder to keep valves up. It's best to put that piston on tdc to keep the valve from falling in should it break the air seal. I use this tool:

attachment.php


It works very well and is easy to use. I got mine from Matco, but any tool truck will have it, online, or maybe parts stores.
 
There is a great write-up in the FSM...:rolleyes:

I wish there were more technical write-ups. The FSM is good for specs and all, but the diagrams leave something to be desired...
Those Aussie guys really know how to fix stuff in the bush. I'm also convinced that you have to make a BIG mistake before you can actually damage something in these motors and make it undrivable.

I'm with the others on pulling the head. It is a PITA, but it also gives you the opportunity to clean it up and resurface the valves.
 
There is a great write-up in the FSM...:rolleyes:

I wish there were more technical write-ups. The FSM is good for specs and all, but the diagrams leave something to be desired...
Those Aussie guys really know how to fix stuff in the bush. I'm also convinced that you have to make a BIG mistake before you can actually damage something in these motors and make it undrivable.

I'm with the others on pulling the head. It is a PITA, but it also gives you the opportunity to clean it up and resurface the valves.

Yeh if the top side of the valves are all carboned and oil gunk on them you may be doing the stems in a few years again.
 
We replace valve stem seals on car all the time. I have never done a 1fz, but if you can get to the valve springs with the cams out, it should be possible. You can use a compression tester hose with the valve core removed to supply air to the cylinder to keep valves up. It's best to put that piston on tdc to keep the valve from falling in should it break the air seal. I use this tool:

attachment.php


It works very well and is easy to use. I got mine from Matco, but any tool truck will have it, online, or maybe parts stores.


Looks just like the one I have :)

myoldvalvespringtool.jpg



Toyotool has the similar ValveMaster tools, but there are 3 different sizes and I'm not sure which one will fit the 1FZ :hmm:

http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm



 
If it helps, your valve stems should be 7mm. Can your tool accommodate the 7mm stem?
 
If it helps, your valve stems should be 7mm. Can your tool accommodate the 7mm stem?


It should work, but I'm more concerned about the tool actually fitting in the recess for the valve springs :hmm:

I remember trying it on a Lexus head that had a narrow recess and the tool I had was too big, but the machine shop down the street had a narrow tool that worked :meh:

Also, I'm not sure if the tool will fit under the cowl for the rear springs :oops:
 
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Ah, yeah, that is tricky.
I believe there is a smaller diameter special tool for the tight clearance heads.
There is no solution to the cowl being in the way... except removing the head.
Bummer.

You seem to have a pretty night shop... any chance you might be able to make something to work?
 
I saw a small how-to on here when searching awhile back. Try using google and type:
FJ80 valve adjustment seal replacement

I think that's how I found it.
 
OK, the guys over at Toyotool says I an use the bottom half of their ValveMaster tool which only extends 4 inches and pry it under the cowl using a pry bar if needed :cool:

I've been going over the FSM and the only part that really scares me is the sequence for cam removal and installation :hmm:

Has anyone here actually snapped a cam or cracked the head doing this? :doh:

I've done a few 2JZ cam swaps and it's not nearly as involved :meh:
 
There was one person about year ago who posted up a thread (couldn't get the distributor gear lined up??) which turned out to be a cracked camshaft after installing a new HG IIRC, either from taking the head apart or putting it back together.
 

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