Is my fj62 overheating? You tell me!!!

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do you smell the sweet smell of coolant at the tailpipe?
do you see a constant plume of white smoke out the tail pipe?


I played Mr. Goodwrench back in teh late 80's... do you have oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil?

As I suggested . Get an aftermarket guage for temp in your truck. Don't worry what everyone else says. If you can't tell what the temp is...then you really don't know what's going on, and a few people have pointed out that the OEM guage is not accurate. No-one can tell you the temp issue on the internet, you'll need to verifty that in person.

Verfiy the tempterature of the engine. I think your shop instructor would be the first to tell you that...

I think also you most likely have a shop or school book on engine mechaincs that will tell you to look for white smoke out the tail pipe, oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil, may even suggest you look under the valve cover for cotaminated oil sludge, may also sugguest a test specific for head gaskets.

A puff of white smoke by itself is not a predictor of a head gasket issue.

Did you install a new thermostat, gasket and o-ring?

A good lessoon in mechanics is to baseline your issue and narrow the scope of what you are looking to solve. To do that you need to know factually what temp your engine is running at. to rule out issues with thermostat that may have been in the truck you generally would replace it , the gasket and teh o-ring. Many people don't replace the o-ring...make sure you know aobut the o ring and get a new one.

A big thing to consider....if your headgasket is blown...do not drive the truck!
 
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i am not driving the truck, i dont want to possibly warp the head ;). i ordered the tstat but its not toyota, what and where does this o-ring go? is it suppose to come with the tstat? i couldnt tell if there was oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. the oil did not taste sweet...........i thought white smoke from the tailpipe was headgasket problems. and no it is only for a second literally when i first start the truck then it is gone!!! when i took apart the thermo housing, the coolant was super hot and my radiator normally stays hot for a long time after i turn the truck off, i thought it was normal maybe but could that be from a sticking thermostat? i appreciate all your help Elbert and all others. i will ask instructor about the temp by gauge or gun. God BLess and i will update asap -Cody
 
I dont think you will hurt it driving it, unless you have severe/obvious signs of overheating-- coolant boils over, engine begins to ping/knock, or your oil is full of coolant which it sounds like its not. In my experience, the stock temperature gauge has been very accurate on my 62.

Get a mechanical gauge installed or at least hooked up temporarily so you know the exact temperature, then go from there. You can find an adapter and screw the mechanical temp gauge probe into the place where the stock temp sensor is screwed into the thermostat housing. Or you can drill/tap a new hole for the mechanical gauge, and run both the stock and mechanical gauges.

I believe the o-ring fits on top of the thermostat, not sure if it comes with it. I dont think so.
 
does that o ring only make it run warmer for the heater to work well? will it work without it? and i will try a mech gauge:)
 
You probably have a bad fan clutch or tired radiator and that could be why the slow speed temps are higher because the clutch is not engaging therefor the fan is not moving enough air. Then since you have obstructed the radiator with the fans the air cannot flow as much so when your motor is working harder at higher speeds you are not getting enough cooling. And at low speeds since it is not working as hard the fans help with the cooling. Try driving at slow speeds without the A/C and see how it cools. Those are my guesses.

Problem

I had the same problem. On long drive, the gauge used to be on 1/4 but on local slow driving it used to go till the middle or at times slightly above it especially when the AC (air condition) is on.

Solution

Last week, with the suggestion of a friend i fixed two electric fans in front of the AC condenser for better throw of air into the radiator. One fan is 8" of size and the second is of 10". These fans start when the AC is switched on and stops when it trips or u put it off.

Result

After driving the cruiser for the last one week, the result was as follows.
1. On local, with AC, the temp gauge is not going above 40% of the limit.
2. On long drive, with AC, ie on at constant speed of 120 KM/hr, the temp gauge was on 55% ot 60%.

Now this is strange. Can someone please put me wise as why this change?
 
I still think you need to heed the advice above and measure the temperature of your engine when you are at operating temperature. My factory gauge reads just like yours and my temperature is normal.
 
Aftermarket or OEM radiator?

I didn't see mention of the source of your new radiator.

Did you replace with aftermarket or a OEM?

Mine runs just below the half mark and on long climbs in hot weather driving it hard it climbs to the same place as your picture.

I have an aftermarket radiator for the past four or five years - My stock radiator used to run a little cooler.

This picture shows where I always run on the temp display - it climbs just above the half way line on long hills hot or cold outside and with or without the AC on.
IMG00114-20100630-1928.jpg


I don't have any problems overheating and have over 175k miles and do lots of hot weather driving in hilly areas.
 
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no it is not oem but works gr8, cfc or cfs i believe. my fan clutch seems good and has resistance after running ................i am getting my thermostat tomorrow and will put in and see what happens next...........monday i am bringing it to class and pressure test the rad and cooling system along with pressure testing the engine! i pray its not my head gasket though :) !!! i will keep updating my status. thanks for the support guys!!! God Bless- Cody
 
Originally Posted by hadinoman
Problem

I had the same problem. On long drive, the gauge used to be on 1/4 but on local slow driving it used to go till the middle or at times slightly above it especially when the AC (air condition) is on.

Solution

Last week, with the suggestion of a friend i fixed two electric fans in front of the AC condenser for better throw of air into the radiator. One fan is 8" of size and the second is of 10". These fans start when the AC is switched on and stops when it trips or u put it off.

Result

After driving the cruiser for the last one week, the result was as follows.
1. On local, with AC, the temp gauge is not going above 40% of the limit.
2. On long drive, with AC, ie on at constant speed of 120 KM/hr, the temp gauge was on 55% ot 60%.

Now this is strange. Can someone please put me wise as why this change?


You probably have a bad fan clutch or tired radiator and that could be why the slow speed temps are higher because the clutch is not engaging therefor the fan is not moving enough air. Then since you have obstructed the radiator with the fans the air cannot flow as much so when your motor is working harder at higher speeds you are not getting enough cooling. And at low speeds since it is not working as hard the fans help with the cooling. Try driving at slow speeds without the A/C and see how it cools. Those are my guesses.




@ Aseif007

This means that when moving on high speed, even if both the fans are throwing air on to the radiator, there is more obstruction caused by those fans in throwing the natural air???????????

Please explain.
 
well Cruiser Dudes, i thinki my head gasket is good. havent seen any more smoke since th other day. today i changed my thermostat with both gasket and O ring and the temp stays inthe same place sooo i am going to look for a mech gauge to install, i do believe i am not overheating now but just b/c it is a good idea and yall have suggested it thoroughly. i drove it around with a/c on in town and it stayed at that spot the whole time and at idle in my driveway. is there any definite way to test a fan clutch besides resistance after you drive it? any suggestions on where i go now besides the mech gauge( anyone know of one that bolts right in the thermo housing?) also i dont believe the head gasket is bad b/c i have plenty of power and no coolant in oil or vice versa. but i do sometimes loose some coolant out of the overflow tank and i want to figure that out unless i havent got all the air out yet!!! i am going to pressure test my system tuesday on the rad and compression test the block as well to confirm the head gasket though!!! thank again for all your help and i will continue to update, God Bless- Cody
 
has anyone bought a complete mech gauge kit and installed it on the fj62? like not having to piece it together but as a solid kit? thanks fella's - Cody
 
has anyone bought a complete mech gauge kit and installed it on the fj62? like not having to piece it together but as a solid kit? thanks fella's - Cody

Sunpro 2-1/16" guages from autozone - i paid around $35
100_1839.jpg
 
I just think that the fans are a bandaid not a solution. I would guess that it is your clutch or radiator maybe a water pump? If you drive around at low speeds without the extra fans on does your temp rise? I can drive in any temp with A/C on or off and the gauge barely moves and I believe the gauge because an engine can't go 300K like this and last IMHO. My gauge in 3 FJ-62s that I remember mostly stayed around the 1/4 mark.

Originally Posted by hadinoman
Problem

I had the same problem. On long drive, the gauge used to be on 1/4 but on local slow driving it used to go till the middle or at times slightly above it especially when the AC (air condition) is on.

Solution

Last week, with the suggestion of a friend i fixed two electric fans in front of the AC condenser for better throw of air into the radiator. One fan is 8" of size and the second is of 10". These fans start when the AC is switched on and stops when it trips or u put it off.

Result

After driving the cruiser for the last one week, the result was as follows.
1. On local, with AC, the temp gauge is not going above 40% of the limit.
2. On long drive, with AC, ie on at constant speed of 120 KM/hr, the temp gauge was on 55% ot 60%.

Now this is strange. Can someone please put me wise as why this change?







@ Aseif007

This means that when moving on high speed, even if both the fans are throwing air on to the radiator, there is more obstruction caused by those fans in throwing the natural air???????????

Please explain.
 
when i install my gauge.....what temp is too staring to get too hot? 215 or something like that
 
That is plain wrong information. From that pic you can neither deduce the real temperature, nor is there any indication of overheating there. The stock gauge (as has been mentioned here) is inherently inaccurate. 3 stock gauges at the same temp will leave the needle in 3 different positions. The only way to accurately measure the temp is with a good aftermarket gauge.
j

X a bunch.

You need a mechanical gauge.
 
anything north of 220 is something to be concerned with. You would expect to run up to around 210 or so in the summer with the A/C on.

In the winter you should run around the temp range of the thermostat....once it gets real hot in the summer and the A/C is on...you'll see it get hotter as noted above.
 
Where are you guys putting the sensor or sending unit for a second gauge? On my 80, there was a boss in the casting of the water outlet, and I machined the hole there for the second gauge.

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Is there any good spot to add or are you abandoning the stock gauge and using that sender location?


Cheers,
Dave
 
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The stock Toyota gage is sometimes a bit misleading. I now rely on a numbered gage.

As a temperature reference for the stock gage:
1/4 = 180 degrees
1/2 = 220 degrees
3/4 = 240 degrees

I double checked both the stock gage and the numbered gage with an infrared temp gun on the thermostat housing.

.
 
I think that the stock gauges can very quite a bit as to what temperature corresponds to what reading. My stock gauge reads halfway when the temp is around 190.


.

The stock Toyota gage is sometimes a bit misleading. I now rely on a numbered gage.

As a temperature reference for the stock gage:
1/4 = 180 degrees
1/2 = 220 degrees
3/4 = 240 degrees

I double checked both the stock gage and the numbered gage with an infrared temp gun on the thermostat housing.

.
 

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