Is it possible to run without the idle solenoid? (1 Viewer)

[brider]

The idle solenoid on my F-engine Pig doesn't work (just discovered it, it's parked at my work parking ramp, and they want me to move it), and I'm going to go out at lunch and remove it and see if the truck idles again.

Is there a big downside to slapping duct tape over the hole in the upper carb body and running it, until I can get a replacement solenoid? Will that be a big vacuum leak?

I read quite a bit about the solenoid using the search function, and there are indications that with a smog-intact rig, it is necessary during deceleration, so as to minimize or eliminate unburned fuel dumping into the exhaust manifold and causing backfiring.

But with a de-smogged rig like mine, the smog circuit never de-activates the idle solenoid, and I've never had any problem with backfiring on closed throttle during deceleration.

Thanks!

 

[brider]

The idle solenoid on my F-engine Pig doesn't work (just discovered it, it's parked at my work parking ramp, and they want me to move it), and I'm going to go out at lunch and remove it and see if the truck idles again.

Is there a big downside to slapping duct tape over the hole in the upper carb body and running it, until I can get a replacement solenoid? Will that be a big vacuum leak?

I read quite a bit about the solenoid using the search function, and there are indications that with a smog-intact rig, it is necessary during deceleration, so as to minimize or eliminate unburned fuel dumping into the exhaust manifold and causing backfiring.

But with a de-smogged rig like mine, the smog circuit never de-activates the idle solenoid, and I've never had any problem with backfiring on closed throttle during deceleration.

Thanks!

 

[mr_manny]

Originally I was running my idle solenoid off my coil +, as I've read many times here on MUD.
It was disappointing to find that my rig would want to die, If I quickly came to a stop.
I figured I needed a replacement solenoid, and adjusted my driving style

It then occurred to me that my MSD box is prob. not playing nice w/the solenoid, so I moved it to a regular switched 12V source.

problem gone.

If you adjust your carb's idle to compensate for a non-working solenoid, you could get by....but now that I've lived on greener pastures, it would recommend that it ONLY be temporary

manny

 

[mikeob1]

I have a 1974 F motor. According to the FSM, I have, the idle solenoid is actually just a plunger switch designed to block the idle fuel circuit in the carb when the key is turned off. Otherwise, the vehicle would keep getting fuel through the idle port and might be impossible to shut down.

I haven't seen a schematic for my rig, but all I've read indicates the solenoid switch event only occurs during a key on / off event. In later models, it is possible, I guess, to have it controlled by the emissions "computer" and use it for other purposes.

As far as plugging it goes...not sure tape will do the trick. I would think it might be possible to leak a small amount of fuel through or change other characteristics of your carb. But if it were me, I'd just try it.

 

[Pin_Head]

I read quite a bit about the solenoid using the search function, and there are indications that with a smog-intact rig, it is necessary during deceleration, so as to minimize or eliminate unburned fuel dumping into the exhaust manifold and causing backfiring.

This is only true of later (79? and up) cruisers. On earlier cruisers the idle solenoid is always on when the key is on. I'm not sure, but I think the major purpose is to prevent run-on after shutting the key off.

If your engine idles with a bad solenoid, maybe it is stuck open. If you want to remove the solenoid and have it still idle, you can remove the plunger and then screw it back in to seal hole.

You shouldn't run anything off your coil wire except the ignition. It is the only unfused keyed circuit in the cruiser and the more wires you have the more likely somthing will short out and maybe burn out your wiring harness. It is supposed to run off the engine fuse circuit.

 

[splitshot]

Tucson? Phoenix?, Might try Napa or Merle's auotmotive or your dealer.

 

[Degnol]

I know that a quick fix is to just cut off the end of the brass plunger. Unless you have a bad case of run on after switching the ignition off, you could just run it that way.

Ed

 

[brider]

Took it off, runs fine...

...so far. I haven't tried a high-speed highway run to get it good and hot to see if it "diesels" when I shut it off.

But guess what? I "bench tested" it on the battery terminals, and the damn thing works! So then I moved it to the valve cover and plugged it into the coil 12V and valve cover stud, works again.

Then I re-installed it with cleaned contacts all around, and it DOESN'T work. Maybe it's sticking in the bore? Whatever, if it doesn't run-on after the drive home, I'll make a plate to cover the hole and drive on.

Thanks everybody!

 

[fjwagon]

If it has one wire like mine you can experment and run a ground wire to the carb. Or use a test light to check if you get power at the connector. May also want to check if the "O" ring is the right size. Just an idea......it make wonder why it binds.