Is it hardcore to build your own fuel injection??? (1 Viewer)

[Mace]

No, That was my job...

And that is being fixed right now huh

Although.. From what I understand your fabricator did a pretty good number oin his links last weekend.

 

[John Smith]

I would definitely consider this "hardcore" or at least, hard. I know my soldering skills are nowhere near good enough to take on that project. I thought they were selling the megasquirt system already assembled now? If so, and you are still building your own then yes, you are hardcore in my book.

 

[Mace]

$270 for one that is built.

~$120 for the kit.

I am a cheap bastard


http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=25

 

[beaufort-fj60]

are you done yet?

 

[Rock Taxi]

And that is being fixed right now huh

Although.. From what I understand your fabricator did a pretty good number oin his links last weekend.

I know I will catch grief every time I screw up and probably deserve it too, but from total strangers as well?

Ed

 

[Mace]

Just trying to deflect the barrage brother..


Besides, it makes me feel better knowing that someone who actually knows what he is doing had a bad day too

 

[Rock Taxi]

that someone who actually knows what he is doing ....

LOL! Obviously, you have me mistaken for someone else.

Ed

 

[Mace]

Cool then, a fellow hack

 

[peesalot]

Just somethin else for you to fawk up . You are quite the little inventor aren't you now ?

 

[jmaddocks]

$270 for one that is built.

~$120 for the kit.

I am a cheap bastard

I just picked one up on ebay for ~$200. Since it's already tested, I don't need to buy/build a simulator, which offsets some of the cost difference. It was worth $60 to me to have someone else solder the damn thing together. I've had enough engineering challenges w/ this project (VW Corrado 16v turbo frankenstein motor w/ Megasquirt & wideband).

If things go well, I might consider squirting my LX450 w/ a low pressure turbo setup.

Jason

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Mace what are you currently running for a FI setup?

 

[Mace]

I am not running anything on the rig right now. It had a stock carb..

(85 FJ60)

On my 40, which I might switch to MS one day, I am running propane.

 

[FLYINGLOW]

OK, I was just wondering about a comparison between stock GM and the MS. Oh well, maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[jmaddocks]

If I had a GM vehicle w/ GM FI that ran fine, I'd stick w/ stock. For an engine swap or major changes to an engine that will affect its tuning (e.g. forced induction, carb to FI, etc), standalone is a good way to go. MS is a true tinkerer's dream -- you can set it up to do as much or as little as you want. No check engine lights or inadvertant invoking of "limp home" mode to worry about. Pairing MS w/ a wideband O2 sensor/controller is gouge, as you can drive the car, data log the air-fuel ratio, and have MS determine fuel maps to drive the AFR to desired values.

www.megasquirt.info

Jason

 

[fj40charles]

Is it hardcore to build your own Fule injection computer??


Nerd core?


Or just plain stupid???

Or must have plenty of time.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Is it hardcore to build your own Fule injection computer??


Nerd core?


Or just plain stupid???

I guess it's a matter of perspective. I've been hand soldering PCB assemblies for over 25 years. Pretty mundane stuff to me.
Building my Orion t-case was intimidating. I've never done much more than change a water pump or alternator before.

 

[Mace]

Got the mother board in yesterday..

That is a dam lot of holes to fill with stuff and solder

 

[rusty_tlc]

Got the mother board in yesterday..

That is a dam lot of holes to fill with stuff and solder

A couple of hints/ suggestions.

Get a big chunk of styrofoam, cover it with foil. (The foils prevents electrostatic discharge which can destroy some components. The best practice would be to connect the foil to ground and use a cheap Radio shack ESD wrist strap also grounded. )

Tape the board to it. Bend all your part leads.

Stuff the board, the styro allows you to do this with out soldering. Mark each part off the BOM with a highlighter as you stuff it .

When the board is stuffed top solder each connection, just tack them in place. Now you can pull the board out of the styro and solder the connections from the bottm.

Try to heat the lead and the anular ring (the part of the trace around the hole) at the same time, don't heat the solder.

I strongly recomend one of those magnifiers with a light ring around it and a small fan to suck the flux fumes away.

When your done leave the project alone for a while, come back a day or so later and inspect every solder joint, touch up as required.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mace]

Helps a lot actually, I was wondering what the best way was to actually get the parts "tacked" into place.

BTW, what soldering iron do you suggest to tackle this job?


Thanks Rusty

 

[rusty_tlc]

Helps a lot actually, I was wondering what the best way was to actually get the parts "tacked" into place.

BTW, what soldering iron do you suggest to tackle this job?


Thanks Rusty

As with any tool buy the best you can afford. I haven't bought a consumer iron since,..... well ever. I'll do some looking after lunch and get back to you.