Is it hardcore to build your own fuel injection???

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Frys in Las Vegas has a Hako 936 which they sell for $85, that looks like the best bang for the buck.


General info on soldering irons:
Wellar, Metcal, and Hako are safe bets.
As a minimum you need a unit with temp control and at least 60W output. 40W may get you by but forget doing any lead free soldering.
Look for a replacable pencil and tips.
 
Mace said:
Nice, thanks for the info.

Suppose a plastic case would suffice for the AL one they reccomend??

http://enclosuresandcases.com/sbspecpage.html
Click to expand...
I'd have to know a lot more about the board, they may be using the case as a heat sink. Any way those are about the best you can get, blow some of the money you saved on a cool enclosure.

Edit: Puncuation is a good thing.
 
Fair enough. Never thought about the heat sink capabilities..

I'll go for the nice case for $15.00 please ;)
 
Fry's is a cool place.

got the last socket that I needed, a DB-9 cable and some plastic screws to finish the job..

Or start the job I guess :)

Plus they had the AL case that I needed. So no more mail order :)
 
Mace said:
Fry's is a cool place.

got the last socket that I needed, a DB-9 cable and some plastic screws to finish the job..

Or start the job I guess :)

Plus they had the AL case that I needed. So no more mail order :)
Click to expand...
:banana: Frys is like Spector/Man-A Free/Marlin/AA all rolled up in one to an electronics techie.
 
Not once..............


yet ;)

Almost finished with the mother board. Everything has moved smoothly so far..

Can I repeat the term So far???
 
Don't forget to spend a lot of time inspecting your work. Most failures can be found at visual inspection. Cold solder joints, or missing solder joints are a bi.... bear to find later. They result in intermittant operartion, the last thing you want is an electrical circuit that works sometimes, usually failing at the worst time.

Cold solder joints will look opaque instead of shiny, missing solder joints will be missing solder. :doh:
 
Texican said:
Never met huh?
Who was that I pulled back to camp in SD?
I can pull plenty of threads off POR to prove you are stoopid......
Seem to remember a missed Moab trip to name one :D :D
Click to expand...

ok, I'm in for hearing a good story about my buddy Mace :D :flipoff2:
 
All done and tested with the stimulator...


Works as supposed to :)

I'll get pics.

Moab.. Short story.. I was doing burnouts in the street "testing" testing my suspension.
It failed ;)
 
Mace said:
All done and tested with the stimulator...


Works as supposed to :)

I'll get pics.

Moab.. Short story.. I was doing burnouts in the street "testing" testing my suspension.
It failed ;)
Click to expand...
Hooty Hooo! good work! Pics please.
 
soldering gun plugs into a Premier power welder nicely thank you very much....

;)
 
Dood - I know you own a digital camera. Let us see what you are doing!! :rolleyes:
 
Okay okay...
 
Here is the final unit (outside of the metal box) It looks simplistic but let me say that for a rookie that was a tON of soldering.
MS top.webp
MS back.webp
MS and stimulator.webp
 
I found a cheap new adapter from http://www.waltech.org/21stcenturyhotrods/tlc_efi/tlc_intro.shtml On ebay for $45.00. The adapter was new and I bought it directly from them. So far I am not impressed.

No hardware was included. Which was not that big of a deal until I started to mount the plates together. Fit and finish sucks.. From the pics, everywhere you see black is where the intake column does not match up. I will be spending some time in the near future making the transition from the TBI unit to the 2F intake manifold seamless.
both plates.webp
adapter.webp
bottom plate.webp
 
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