Is H55 in my BJ45 a simple swap?

[greenbeast]

Was going to wait until the 3B was rebuilt but now with a move in 6 months coming down the line I would like to just install my H55 into the stock 3B. Anyone know if I need to use any different mounting brackets? Outside of support brackets I assume it should be relatively easy install?

Outside of a tranny lift any special tools required? This will be new territory for me so anything you can share would be much appreciated

 

[David*BJ70]

What year is your BJ45 ? I presume you have a 4spd H42 ? If you have the late H42 model, the cross member is the same.

Aside of the 4spd shift stick that is place on “the front” of the tranny top cover where the 5spd is on the “back”, it is a easy bolt on swap.

 

[greenbeast]

What year is your BJ45 ? I presume you have a 4spd H42 ? If you have the late H42 model, the cross member is the same.

Aside of the 4spd shift stick that is place on “the front” of the tranny top cover where the 5spd is on the “back”, it is a easy bolt on swap.

Its a 1984 BJ45 from the Netherlands.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Your 3B motor will need a 3B input shaft on the H55f. Regular 2f/h/12HT H55fs will not work.

 

[David*BJ70]

Forgot to mention the drive shafts length are different

 

[David*BJ70]

Your 3B motor will need a 3B input shaft on the H55f. Regular 2f/h/12HT H55fs will not work.

Obviously !

According to is signature, the OP might have a H55f from a 3B

 

[greenbeast]

Is there a way of snowing the needed length of the driveshaft prior to install? Sure would be nice to just have everything ready at install.

The H55 is out of a BJ42 and I had Valleyhybrids rebuild it last year so no problem there.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

It's relatively simple.

I put a BJ60 H55F behind my 03/81 BJ40 B engine recently.

- Drive shafts: As David* says above, driveshafts will have to be changed (I went ahead and ordered new, double cardan models from Tom Wood's - excellent service and excellent product if you don't have easy access to someone to modify your existing D/S)

- Shifter location will be a question. You didn't specify if your H55F is new (in which case it will always have the 60 series top plate and the 'rearward' shift tower - lots of info on this in the 40 section), or what it came out of. If (again as David* notes) if it came from behind a 3B, you'll be OK for input shaft, but still have the question as to whether that 3B was a 60/70 model or a 40. If you've got a five-speed with a 40-series top plate that's a special beast and you'll be fortunate not to have to worry about modifying the transmission hump/access cover. This isn't difficult, and not a show stopper - just cut some sheet metal and (when ready) patch up the hole so you can remount the boot - but it should be considered so you're not surprised.

- Cross member and isolator (the support that goes under the tranny). Should be the same between your (presumed) H41 or H42 four speed.

- Special tools. None that I can think of. I've never owned a specific trans jack and have changed a few by just finagling things around strapped to a floor jack. Not optimal, but with the infrequency of this work I haven't purchased that tool.

- Are you taking the split case off? Might consider ordering seals and gaskets while you're doing it.

Sorry for the amount of rambling. Bottom line, it's not difficult, but takes some planning to go easy.

HTH, Travis.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Is there a way of snowing the needed length of the driveshaft prior to install? Sure would be nice to just have everything ready at install.

The H55 is out of a BJ42 and I had Valleyhybrids rebuild it last year so no problem there.

I don't have easy access to my truck at the moment or I'd measure for you.

I'm pretty sure a search in the 40 section will get you close, but some of this measurement will depend on what suspension you are running. That wouldn't vary a ton. But, in my case, I just added OME 2" lift, and being brand new it's surely gonna relax a little. If you're on your 1984 springs (I haven't searched your posting/content so if you've detailed this elsewhere I apologize) there might be a significant difference in DS length necessary to properly span the gap and allow for flexion/compression.

You might get close by using someone else's D/S measurements, but any shop you order from, or who is gonna modify your existing, will probably want measurements from you given your set up.

TDC.-

 

[greenbeast]

Gracias, I really don't have access to any shops who deal with drivelines. I will check with the individual you mentioned. When I purchased it I was reassured I have the appropriate top plate so lucky there I dont anticiapte any tranny hump mods. The H55 also has a split case also attached so I really am hoping for plug and play other then the driveshaft.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Gracias, I really don't have access to any shops who deal with drivelines. I will check with the individual you mentioned. When I purchased it I was reassured I have the appropriate top plate so lucky there I dont anticiapte any tranny hump mods. The H55 also has a split case also attached so I really am hoping for plug and play other then the driveshaft.

I've no affiliation with Tom Woods (Custom Drive Shaft Shop | Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - https://4xshaft.com/) other than as a satisfied customer.

Ordering was easy, fabrication was quick and quality, and shipping was spot on. When one of the yokes turned out to have been installed incorrectly Wood's sent me a new unit without question, and without me needing to return theirs first. They made it right *immediately* and let the admin of getting my wrong one back to them play out as convenient.

All in all, it's just much simpler (though somewhat costly) than trying to mod old stuff to work; especially given the extremely short rear D/S after the H55F goes in - it's begging for a double cardan (I think some would say it's "required", though an equal number will probably say no, it's not... internet is great for debate - haha). In my case (and I put one of their D/S in my Tacoma when that intermediate bearing from factory failed) it was well worth the investment to have a quality component there.

Again, sorry for the novella internet posts. It's slow at work, and I like to try and be clear in these things.

PS. You may have to fight with the tube cross-member in the frame - the one with the hump in it behind the T/C - as you lift the whole Tx/Tfr combo into place. It's tough to get enough up and down clearance between that while trying to seat the input shaft into the flywheel forward and back - but it can be done. Just takes some, occasionally infuriating, creative jack work.

 

[greenbeast]

Truly appreciate the help. I have a 55 also I am working on and after looking at the prices on their website I thought they were crazy reasonable. I did send email to see what they say.

 

[rick_d]

I would consider 40 series H55 top plates unobtanium (and not worth sourcing for the $$$$$$). So ignore that direction.

You will need to adjust the tunnel opening for both the shifter and the t case lever (factory or double lever aftermarket)

You will need the 3B input and bearing retainer off the appropriate H41 (low gear 4 speed)/H55. Your transmission *might* have the correct unit but then you must source a long obsolete early H55 (1981-1985) for conversion- this could be hard to find.

You should find a later 3B matched H55 (1986-1999 general h55's- the 3B units were 1986-1989)
(the front retainer will have "ears" use search function).

Your t case should work, but it needs oil cup receiver and rear bearing machining for the h55 output shaft bearing. take apart and look out for confirmation.

Double cardens were used in front driveline applications when the shaft was short. H55 on a 4x series are about 32" and do not need a double carden if under a 4"++ lift. The rear will be short but you can reverse the springs to gain a little placement. Grand Junction etc should have a driveline shop- most are 1 day turn around. Not a rocket science assembly.

 

[David*BJ70]

…

 

[David*BJ70]

PS. You may have to fight with the tube cross-member in the frame - the one with the hump in it behind the T/C - as you lift the whole Tx/Tfr combo into place. It's tough to get enough up and down clearance between that while trying to seat the input shaft into the flywheel forward and back - but it can be done. Just takes some, occasionally infuriating, creative jack work.

It's been almost 12 or 13 years since I did my swap… I totally forgot about this … yeah, it's coming back to me now. This step was almost …. discouraging

 

[greenbeast]

I would consider 40 series H55 top plates unobtanium (and not worth sourcing for the $$$$$$). So ignore that direction.

You will need to adjust the tunnel opening for both the shifter and the t case lever (factory or double lever aftermarket)

You will need the 3B input and bearing retainer off the appropriate H41 (low gear 4 speed)/H55. Your transmission *might* have the correct unit but then you must source a long obsolete early H55 (1981-1985) for conversion- this could be hard to find.

You should find a later 3B matched H55 (1986-1999 general h55's- the 3B units were 1986-1989)
(the front retainer will have "ears" use search function).

Your t case should work, but it needs oil cup receiver and rear bearing machining for the h55 output shaft bearing. take apart and look out for confirmation.

Double cardens were used in front driveline applications when the shaft was short. H55 on a 4x series are about 32" and do not need a double carden if under a 4"++ lift. The rear will be short but you can reverse the springs to gain a little placement. Grand Junction etc should have a driveline shop- most are 1 day turn around. Not a rocket science assembly.

Appreciate the info. This H55 came with the 3B being rebuilt. from early 80's BJ42. It was sent to Georg at Valley Hybrids where it along with the Xfer case were torn down and inspected and everything made as close to new as possible and alleviate any concerns. I was also lucky enough to get the "coveted" top plate along with it.

Thanks for the measurements. I don't have much interest in switching or turning the rear springs so will have to figure that out.

 

[rick_d]

so transmission should be early "no ears". Georg should have it tight and right.

Having a 45 series your rear driveshaft length should be decent enough.

I had a 1981 40 series which I put a H55 in (circa 2002) and rear shaft was 19" or so. And as was said up thread, put the engine and transmission in as one unit. Unpossible to put the transmission/transfer in with engine in bay on mounts.

 

[greenbeast]

That was my original intent was just install with new rebuilt engine. However with no end in sight with rebuild on engine I figure I would just install the tranny and drive it. By installing tranny it’s one last thing to haul back to Oklahoma in June when I move.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

I just did the tranny swap (well actually a clutch job after the tranny swap) and did a write up on the process. It was for a 1HZ but it was in a BJ44 so close enough to what you are trying to do. I also swapped in an H55 when this truck had the 2B so am very familiar with the process.
Check my threads for that writeup (it's here in the diesel/24v section) or pm me and I'lll send you my contact info for questions.

 

[greenbeast]

I just did the tranny swap (well actually a clutch job after the tranny swap) and did a write up on the process. It was for a 1HZ but it was in a BJ44 so close enough to what you are trying to do. I also swapped in an H55 when this truck had the 2B so am very familiar with the process.
Check my threads for that writeup (it's here in the diesel/24v section) or pm me and I'lll send you my contact info for questions.

Gonna look that up! Any gaskets or seals I need to order for the swap?