- Thread starter
- #81
if I had it to do all over again I would go with the same kit, just my 2 cents
Ironman Foamcellpro installed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kreiten
- Start date
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Me too... for the money it's fantastic, and for more money, I'd still probably buy it. Just haven't had a reason to look at anything else really.
Have you guys been able to adjust the front without taking them out?
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We’re u able to adjust without taking them off?Yup, @RTaylor , you are right.
I had been texting @kreiten back and forth earlier this week, and he had taken his 200 to @torfab to get his struts tightened. He told me that Torfab used a Snap-On industrial brand of adjustable pin spanner wrench, so I got on Amazon and found the same one on Amazon
here: Amazon product ASIN B002FHPC68
Sure enough, I got it in 2 days and went to town as soon as it came in. It takes a VERY long time to get the springs adjusted; lots of force is required (had to use a 14" cheater bar) and the threads are SUPER fine, so each adjustment only moves the spring very little.
After spending at least an hour or so on each spring, I was able to adjust the struts to a point where I felt satisfied. I am not sure as to how much lift I have gained, as I did not take a measurement from stock, but I can tell you it made a very big difference. From talking to @pdxlc200 , it would seem that I have gained approximately 3.5" over stock. It is just about leveled out now; the rears are still sitting about 1" higher than the front, but it is barely noticeable. I know I could easily get it COMPLETELY leveled if I would just install the OE 10mm spacers from @beno , but after the ordeal I went through with the KDSS relocation brackets, I am afraid to take my struts off, because I am afraid I would never be able to get everything back together again!
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Yes, with a spammer wrench, and a breaker bar
I loved the IronMan Foam Cell Pro on my FJ. I went from stock to the IronMan FCP then to Kings. The jump from stock to the FCP's (And this was a trail team edition with the Bilsteins) was a huge improvement. FCP to Kings was an incremental upgrade. Here's a little video of giving my buddy a little demonstration. He has a 2007 TRD FJ that was bone stock so we got to do back to back stock vs IronMan FCP runs and the difference was dramatic. We both drove both trucks on the same lap so we could compare notes. We hit the first water crossing at probably 1/2 the speed in the stock truck and hit the bump stops HARD. Started getting very squirelly on the fast section around 40MPH in the stock FJ, in my run we are well past 60MPH.
Yup, @RTaylor , you are right.
I had been texting @kreiten back and forth earlier this week, and he had taken his 200 to @torfab to get his struts tightened. He told me that Torfab used a Snap-On industrial brand of adjustable pin spanner wrench, so I got on Amazon and found the same one on Amazon
here: Amazon product ASIN B002FHPC68
Sure enough, I got it in 2 days and went to town as soon as it came in. It takes a VERY long time to get the springs adjusted; lots of force is required (had to use a 14" cheater bar) and the threads are SUPER fine, so each adjustment only moves the spring very little.
After spending at least an hour or so on each spring, I was able to adjust the struts to a point where I felt satisfied. I am not sure as to how much lift I have gained, as I did not take a measurement from stock, but I can tell you it made a very big difference. From talking to @pdxlc200 , it would seem that I have gained approximately 3.5" over stock. It is just about leveled out now; the rears are still sitting about 1" higher than the front, but it is barely noticeable. I know I could easily get it COMPLETELY leveled if I would just install the OE 10mm spacers from @beno , but after the ordeal I went through with the KDSS relocation brackets, I am afraid to take my struts off, because I am afraid I would never be able to get everything back together again!
Did you adjust them with the truck sitting on the ground? I'm thinking of putting spring compressors on the coils and adjusting the collars without the spring tension. Should make it a lot easier.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
If I recall, I lifted the axle off the ground and then use the spanner wrench to adjust the coils.
I am about to lift my 2010 and I am suffering from analysis paralysis on "performance" v. "constant load" springs. I read where some have even mixed them in front and rear.
My 2010 is stock, but at the same time it is getting lifted it will also get:
Sliders - 140 lbs
Front bumper - 225 lbs
Winch, roof rack, RTT maybe in the future. Also the vehicle will likely do some infrequent towing.
This truck is my DD, and for the next few years will probably be 90% road, 10% offroad.
Rear springs are not hard to replace, but I'd rather buy one set for the front. I am leaning towards heavier in front at least, but I would welcome any input before I write the check.
Thanks,
My 2010 is stock, but at the same time it is getting lifted it will also get:
Sliders - 140 lbs
Front bumper - 225 lbs
Winch, roof rack, RTT maybe in the future. Also the vehicle will likely do some infrequent towing.
This truck is my DD, and for the next few years will probably be 90% road, 10% offroad.
Rear springs are not hard to replace, but I'd rather buy one set for the front. I am leaning towards heavier in front at least, but I would welcome any input before I write the check.
Thanks,
@1MAC did you end up going through with this? I'm about to embark on the same task - need to lift one corner an 8th or two. For those that have done this, to lift do you crank the bottom ring only? I saw a YouTube video for a racing shock on a car that instructed to do it that way - turn bottom ring to lift, top ring to go down. Not looking forward to this, but not willing to uninstall and disassemble at this point.
Yeah, I did not go through with it. I don't think the FCP's are designed to be adjusted in-place. I actually just put in an OEM Toyota spacer on one side to level it left-right. Lesson learned - make sure the FCP's are evenly adjusted (same collar heights) prior to installing and assume they are unadjustable once installed.
reddog90
SILVER Star
I thought I would add my experience to this thread as well.
I ordered the foam cell pro kit with prebuilt coilovers and 2" performance springs front (0-110lb) and rear (0-660lb). It's not that I needed the performance spring capacity in the rear (yet), but I wanted to maintain rake for when the vehicle is actually loaded for a camping trip. The only other option would have been the 1" comfort spring in the rear. I do plan to add sliders and drawers, and possibly a roof rack, and I wanted that rake. I also added SPC UCAs.
Install took me probably 14-16 hours of labor in my driveway working leisurely over the course of a few evenings. I don't have air tools or a lift, and my only other lift experience is my FJ40 a couple years ago. None of the work was very technical and I think any capable shade tree mechanic can do this themselves if they don't want to pay shop labor. But a quality LC shop can fine tune the coilover height and your alignment after install to help tire fitment. I will mention that the lift kit came with essentially no instructions. I relied on the Ironman GX lift install video, the Ottram 200 series tough dog lift install video, and this thread for guidance.
LT285/70/18 ridge grapplers on factory wheels (60mm offset).
As you can see in these numbers, I got quite a bit more lift than what was advertised. I don't know if Ironman is to blame for that, or my old suspension was worn out. Track width with factory wheels looks too narrow for my taste, but the vehicle stance looks great now. I really prefer the ride over the stock smushy suspension.
However, I am rubbing the KDSS arm and the passenger side stabilizer bar at full lock:
And my CV angles look pretty steep:
If a good shop did the install, they might have built the coilovers to a slightly different height. Then maybe the track width wouldn't have narrowed as much, which might prevent at least the rubbing on the passenger side stabilizer bar? I counted the threads on my coilovers and they seemed to have been built to the same height, but I have received at least one message from a guy that got one coilover 1/2" taller than the other. I have called a couple well known cruiser shops and they basically always install spacers with factory wheels to widen the stance and help clear the UCAs and KDSS arm.
I am now debating some options. Diff drop and/or KDSS relocation kit. Adding spidertrax spacers or seeing if Discount will take these tires back and switching to Icon wheels (25mm offset) and 285/75/17 ridge grapplers. Some guys report almost no rubbing with Icons and 285/75/17s, some still rub in the same spots I am.
I ordered the foam cell pro kit with prebuilt coilovers and 2" performance springs front (0-110lb) and rear (0-660lb). It's not that I needed the performance spring capacity in the rear (yet), but I wanted to maintain rake for when the vehicle is actually loaded for a camping trip. The only other option would have been the 1" comfort spring in the rear. I do plan to add sliders and drawers, and possibly a roof rack, and I wanted that rake. I also added SPC UCAs.
Install took me probably 14-16 hours of labor in my driveway working leisurely over the course of a few evenings. I don't have air tools or a lift, and my only other lift experience is my FJ40 a couple years ago. None of the work was very technical and I think any capable shade tree mechanic can do this themselves if they don't want to pay shop labor. But a quality LC shop can fine tune the coilover height and your alignment after install to help tire fitment. I will mention that the lift kit came with essentially no instructions. I relied on the Ironman GX lift install video, the Ottram 200 series tough dog lift install video, and this thread for guidance.
LT285/70/18 ridge grapplers on factory wheels (60mm offset).
As you can see in these numbers, I got quite a bit more lift than what was advertised. I don't know if Ironman is to blame for that, or my old suspension was worn out. Track width with factory wheels looks too narrow for my taste, but the vehicle stance looks great now. I really prefer the ride over the stock smushy suspension.
However, I am rubbing the KDSS arm and the passenger side stabilizer bar at full lock:
And my CV angles look pretty steep:
If a good shop did the install, they might have built the coilovers to a slightly different height. Then maybe the track width wouldn't have narrowed as much, which might prevent at least the rubbing on the passenger side stabilizer bar? I counted the threads on my coilovers and they seemed to have been built to the same height, but I have received at least one message from a guy that got one coilover 1/2" taller than the other. I have called a couple well known cruiser shops and they basically always install spacers with factory wheels to widen the stance and help clear the UCAs and KDSS arm.
I am now debating some options. Diff drop and/or KDSS relocation kit. Adding spidertrax spacers or seeing if Discount will take these tires back and switching to Icon wheels (25mm offset) and 285/75/17 ridge grapplers. Some guys report almost no rubbing with Icons and 285/75/17s, some still rub in the same spots I am.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Looks great with the lift. Those CV angles do look to be pretty steep. I am running the Tough Dog Lift with the 45mm adjustable Shocks and my measurements are within a 1/4” of your rear hub to fender numbers however my front height is more then 1” less. Between 1” - 1.25” lower. I am around 22.5” front and 23.75” rear. Lean is less then 1/2” after I swapped the rear driver and passenger springs.
Maybe after some some additional miles the fronts will settle more . Diff drops are not popular on the 200 but with those angles I’d at least get some opinions from the experts to see if you would benefit from one.
I was set on the LT285/70R18. Great size and looks perfect on the 200. It seems like most do rub somewhere on the KDSS sway bars with this size. I couldn’t find any posts on here where someone posted their unicorn Wheels offset and alignment numbers of them successfully running this size with no rubbing or polishing of the sway bar. My LT275/70R18 do slightly kiss the passenger side at full steering wheel lock and the driver side clears but is so very close. My wheels are 18x8.5 with 45mm Offset. Tweaking the alignment may help.
Maybe after some some additional miles the fronts will settle more . Diff drops are not popular on the 200 but with those angles I’d at least get some opinions from the experts to see if you would benefit from one.
I was set on the LT285/70R18. Great size and looks perfect on the 200. It seems like most do rub somewhere on the KDSS sway bars with this size. I couldn’t find any posts on here where someone posted their unicorn Wheels offset and alignment numbers of them successfully running this size with no rubbing or polishing of the sway bar. My LT275/70R18 do slightly kiss the passenger side at full steering wheel lock and the driver side clears but is so very close. My wheels are 18x8.5 with 45mm Offset. Tweaking the alignment may help.
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afgman786
SILVER Star
I thought I would add my experience to this thread as well.
I ordered the foam cell pro kit with prebuilt coilovers and 2" performance springs front (0-110lb) and rear (0-660lb). It's not that I needed the performance spring capacity in the rear (yet), but I wanted to maintain rake for when the vehicle is actually loaded for a camping trip. The only other option would have been the 1" comfort spring in the rear. I do plan to add sliders and drawers, and possibly a roof rack, and I wanted that rake. I also added SPC UCAs.
Install took me probably 14-16 hours of labor in my driveway working leisurely over the course of a few evenings. I don't have air tools or a lift, and my only other lift experience is my FJ40 a couple years ago. None of the work was very technical and I think any capable shade tree mechanic can do this themselves if they don't want to pay shop labor. But a quality LC shop can fine tune the coilover height and your alignment after install to help tire fitment. I will mention that the lift kit came with essentially no instructions. I relied on the Ironman GX lift install video, the Ottram 200 series tough dog lift install video, and this thread for guidance.
LT285/70/18 ridge grapplers on factory wheels (60mm offset).
As you can see in these numbers, I got quite a bit more lift than what was advertised. I don't know if Ironman is to blame for that, or my old suspension was worn out. Track width with factory wheels looks too narrow for my taste, but the vehicle stance looks great now. I really prefer the ride over the stock smushy suspension.
However, I am rubbing the KDSS arm and the passenger side stabilizer bar at full lock:
And my CV angles look pretty steep:
If a good shop did the install, they might have built the coilovers to a slightly different height. Then maybe the track width wouldn't have narrowed as much, which might prevent at least the rubbing on the passenger side stabilizer bar? I counted the threads on my coilovers and they seemed to have been built to the same height, but I have received at least one message from a guy that got one coilover 1/2" taller than the other. I have called a couple well known cruiser shops and they basically always install spacers with factory wheels to widen the stance and help clear the UCAs and KDSS arm.
I am now debating some options. Diff drop and/or KDSS relocation kit. Adding spidertrax spacers or seeing if Discount will take these tires back and switching to Icon wheels (25mm offset) and 285/75/17 ridge grapplers. Some guys report almost no rubbing with Icons and 285/75/17s, some still rub in the same spots I am.
Those numbers will settle with some miles when the suspension gets broken in a bit. My CV angle is very similar to yours, and I was told it's not too terrible. I haven't had any issues on the trails yet and I hope it stays that way.
I didn't like how the wheels look tucked in after lifting and ended up throwing spacers on. If you like the Icons it'd be worth going that route that way your getting the lower offset, and your getting more sidewall.
reddog90
SILVER Star
You have this lift as well right? Did you have rubbing? If so, where and did the spacers solve it?
Discount will take these tires back, but I will still come out of pocket about $750 to change from this setup with spacers to Icons and 285/75/17 RGs. That makes me want to try spacers.
afgman786
SILVER Star
I have an OME lift. But your hub to fender numbers are very similar to what I had when I measured after install. I did not rub the UCA but was very close and also didn't like how the wheels looked so tucked in and put spacers on. I am running RWs so my offset was +50mm. Also you're running a bit taller tire than I am, and most guys running that have spacers or running the lower offset Icons.
edit: my measurements were 60cm front and rear which is around 23.6in
reddog90
SILVER Star
Added spidertrax from slee. Got rid of almost all the rubbing on KDSS and sway bar, slight rubbing on inner fender liner. Removed the little rectangle plastic pieces and that just about fixed it. Might have to go in with a heat gun and do some shaping at some point, but the stance is proper now and I am ok with this little rubbing at the moment. The suspension has softened up since install and the ride is very nice.
Any updates on the the Ironman FCP
I'm looking pretty hard at them right now
MJ
I'm looking pretty hard at them right now
MJ
reddog90
SILVER Star
Still no complaints here. I can give you a wheeling update next week.
