Intro Thread / Hoping I didn't buy a 30K lemon... (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 17, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
19
Location
Grantham, New Hampshire
Hi all, been mostly a lurker here for a bit, but finally starting my own intro thread. Story time incoming.

I'm a long-time import car guy. My wife and I had our 15 minutes of fame several years ago coming from the Nissan Z world. I owned a highly modified 2009 Nissan 370Z and my wife owned a full resto-mod 1978 Datsun 280Z. Had import car magazine covers / website features etc.. Did lots of car shows in the Chicago area. We were known as the "Z couple" if you want to do some google searching. We got out of that scene 6-7 years ago. (we got old lol). More recently owned a 04 LS430 and 5th Gen 4Runner, current daily is a 2018 Tundra Platinum.

After searching for a long time, I picked up this 1996 Land Cruiser from BaT. Yes I know I paid a lot.

Despite the price, I felt like I got pretty lucky finding a southern owned, sub 100K mile car that didn't have a lot of rust. Post auction BaT shipping was a s***show and they spent 3 weeks trying to find a driver before I gave up. My Dad who is retired but still very healthy/active offered to fly down to Florida and drive the truck up the east coast to our current home in New Hampshire.

3 hours into the drive I get the call I was dreading... "Hey I've got a CEL" The car was running fine, all gauges looked normal. He stopped in at an Autozone and pulled a p0171 code. He also mentioned that on a gas fill up there was extreme pressure in the gas tank, the "PSSSHHH" was loud enough that I could hear it while i was on the phone with him. For the p0171, advised to buy some MAF cleaner and send it down towards the MAF to see if it helped, otherwise just keep on truckin...

Next day I get a call that after stopping for gas, the engine is stumbling / surging and has no power. Shutting it off for a minute and restarting seemed to help a little, enough for him to get on the highway and set the cruise to 60 and make the slow trek up I-95. This continued to happen throughout the duration of the trip where he'd suddenly lose power after stopping, has no power to merge onto the highway, He had a couple close calls on the shoulder to get it running enough to get going.

3 Days of driving a questionable car, somehow he made it.

After getting the car, I started to look it over a little more closely. Body / paint was in great shape, interior was a little rougher than the pics lead on to. Lots of small random s*** broken, driver door speaker, driver and passenger power seats not all functions working, hood latch sticks, driver door card vinyl torn. The listing did mention the sunroof was inoperable but didn't mention the trim around it was broken. All those are minor things IMO though and i'll eventually get to.

Turning to engine bay. Wanted to immediately address the gas tank pressure issue, tested the canister according to the FSM and sure enough it was clogged. Replaced with the recommended Duralast VC120. Thinking that stumbling / no power issue might be fuel related, also replaced the fuel filter, as the one there looked original. Also replaced spark plugs because it was an easy thing to try.

Looking closer though, its becoming apparent someone was "in there" over the years. Finding lots of wiring harnesses / relays that are not clipped in to their locations. A wiring harness over the trans dangling loose, another one rubbing on the driveshaft. One of the 2 breathers from the tranny dipstick (that goes to the top of the bellhousing) is just hanging there. Missing the blanket under the hood, missing the wheel well splash shields. Missing a splash shield under the front bumper area. Also there's no Cats on this car, someone replaced with a straight pipe. I think I need to fix that to pass NH inspection (not sure yet).

One thing I noticed too was the Neg battery terminal was loose, which also makes me think it was for easy clearing codes while trying to sell the car...

Seeing all these things, it makes me think the engine/trans was out of this car at one point. Trying not to be a conspiracy theorist here, but is there a way to verify that the engine in this car matches the VIN?

I can see lots of new parts, starter, alternator, all radiator hoses replaced. Brakes were done recently as well as knuckle rebuilds (although it still looks a little greasy around there). Carfax says EGR was serviced last year.


I knew going into this car it would still take some work on the little s*** that's broken. but the engine issue has got me feeling discouraged and not sure how to troubleshoot the stumbling / loss of power issue.

Here's my most recent experience. That p0171 code got cleared when the battery died on me and has not returned.

After replacing the fuel pump, I thought the problem had gone away. A couple drives around the neighborhood seemed promising. The other day I took a 25 minute drive down the highway to Home Depot and got the engine up to temp. On the way there things seemed good. Didn't have any stumbling at all and engine seemed strong.

My amazon bluetooth OBDII adaptor (Veepeak or some s***) talking to the Torque App on my phone showed Engine temp in the 165 range. Other notable things the Torque app is telling me, Short-term fuel trim is like +19ish. I'm not getting a reading at all for Long term fuel trim. Both O2 sensors are bouncing voltage ~.1 to .8 every second, which according to the FSM says they are good. I've got 25~ on Vacuum, and MAF is giving good readings. Catalyst reading is obviously not ready as there's none there...

Things seemed fine on the way there. When I got back in the car 15 mins later, it ran like s***. Like no power and wanting to die when i try to accelerate. I literally have to put the pedal to the floor to get it to stumble up to 3-4k RPM and then it will surge and start to move.

Interestingly, the Torque app when I'm having the stumbling problem, shows 0's for ShortTerm fuel trim and both o2 sensors. I had a hell of a time getting it back home, and it eventually threw p0125 and p0130 codes, but that sounds like a result of the zero readings from the o2 sensors and maybe not the cause?

I've dug thru threads about those codes, some mention ECT sensor, but those threads talk mostly about bad gas mileage and don't mention engine stumbling, more like annoyance codes. Others talk about replacing o2 sensors but when the engine is running good, they were showing good readings.


So... Any help? Some recent thread searching had me thinking about fuel pump sock, but ruled that out as it seems like only an issue after turning off / on the car after the engine was hot. Maybe the sock is "deflating" when I turn the car off? Other than that maybe next thing was to check fuel pump relay? Not sure if that would cause this kind of trouble?

Thanks all.
 
Last edited:
Hi all, been mostly a lurker here for a bit, but finally starting my own intro thread. Story time incoming.

I'm a long-time import car guy. My wife and I had our 15 minutes of fame several years ago coming from the Nissan Z world. I owned a highly modified 2009 Nissan 370Z and my wife owned a full resto-mod 1978 Datsun 280Z. Had import car magazine covers / website features etc.. Did lots of car shows in the Chicago area. We were known as the "Z couple" if you want to do some google searching. We got out of that scene 6-7 years ago. (we got old lol). More recently owned a 04 LS430 and 5th Gen 4Runner, current daily is a 2018 Tundra Platinum.

After searching for a long time, I picked up this 1996 Land Cruiser from BaT. Yes I know I paid a lot.

Despite the price, I felt like I got pretty lucky finding a southern owned, sub 100K mile car that didn't have a lot of rust. Post auction BaT shipping was a s***show and they spent 3 weeks trying to find a driver before I gave up. My Dad who is retired but still very healthy/active offered to fly down to Florida and drive the truck up the east coast to our current home in New Hampshire.

3 hours into the drive I get the call I was dreading... "Hey I've got a CEL" The car was running fine, all gauges looked normal. He stopped in at an Autozone and pulled a p0171 code. He also mentioned that on a gas fill up there was extreme pressure in the gas tank, the "PSSSHHH" was loud enough that I could hear it while i was on the phone with him. For the p0171, advised to buy some MAF cleaner and send it down towards the MAF to see if it helped, otherwise just keep on truckin...

Next day I get a call that after stopping for gas, the engine is stumbling / surging and has no power. Shutting it off for a minute and restarting seemed to help a little, enough for him to get on the highway and set the cruise to 60 and make the slow trek up I-95. This continued to happen throughout the duration of the trip where he'd suddenly lose power after stopping, has no power to merge onto the highway, He had a couple close calls on the shoulder to get it running enough to get going.

3 Days of driving a questionable car, somehow he made it.

After getting the car, I started to look it over a little more closely. Body / paint was in great shape, interior was a little rougher than the pics lead on to. Lots of small random s*** broken, driver door speaker, driver and passenger power seats not all functions working, hood latch sticks, driver door card vinyl torn. The listing did mention the sunroof was inoperable but didn't mention the trim around it was broken. All those are minor things IMO though and i'll eventually get to.

Turning to engine bay. Wanted to immediately address the gas tank pressure issue, tested the canister according to the FSM and sure enough it was clogged. Replaced with the recommended Duralast VC120. Thinking that stumbling / no power issue might be fuel related, also replaced the fuel filter, as the one there looked original. Also replaced spark plugs because it was an easy thing to try.

Looking closer though, its becoming apparent someone was "in there" over the years. Finding lots of wiring harnesses / relays that are not clipped in to their locations. A wiring harness over the trans dangling loose, another one rubbing on the driveshaft. One of the 2 breathers from the tranny dipstick (that goes to the top of the bellhousing) is just hanging there. Missing the blanket under the hood, missing the wheel well splash shields. Missing a splash shield under the front bumper area. Also there's no Cats on this car, someone replaced with a straight pipe. I think I need to fix that to pass NH inspection (not sure yet).

One thing I noticed too was the Neg battery terminal was loose, which also makes me think it was for easy clearing codes while trying to sell the car...

Seeing all these things, it makes me think the engine/trans was out of this car at one point. Trying not to be a conspiracy theorist here, but is there a way to verify that the engine in this car matches the VIN?

I can see lots of new parts, starter, alternator, all radiator hoses replaced. Brakes were done recently as well as knuckle rebuilds (although it still looks a little greasy around there). Carfax says EGR was serviced last year.


I knew going into this car it would still take some work on the little s*** that's broken. but the engine issue has got me feeling discouraged and not sure how to troubleshoot the stumbling / loss of power issue.

Here's my most recent experience. That p0171 code got cleared when the battery died on me and has not returned.

After replacing the fuel pump, I thought the problem had gone away. A couple drives around the neighborhood seemed promising. The other day I took a 25 minute drive down the highway to Home Depot and got the engine up to temp. On the way there things seemed good. Didn't have any stumbling at all and engine seemed strong.

My amazon bluetooth OBDII adaptor (Veepeak or some s***) talking to the Torque App on my phone showed Engine temp in the 165 range. Other notable things the Torque app is telling me, Short-term fuel trim is like +19ish. I'm not getting a reading at all for Long term fuel trim. Both O2 sensors are bouncing voltage ~.1 to .8 every second, which according to the FSM says they are good. I've got 25~ on Vacuum, and MAF is giving good readings. Catalyst reading is obviously not ready as there's none there...

Things seemed fine on the way there. When I got back in the car 15 mins later, it ran like s***. Like no power and wanting to die when i try to accelerate. I literally have to put the pedal to the floor to get it to stumble up to 3-4k RPM and then it will surge and start to move.

Interestingly, the Torque app when I'm having the stumbling problem, shows 0's for ShortTerm fuel trim and both o2 sensors. I had a hell of a time getting it back home, and it eventually threw p0125 and p0130 codes, but that sounds like a result of the zero readings from the o2 sensors and maybe not the cause?

I've dug thru threads about those codes, some mention ECT sensor, but those threads talk mostly about bad gas mileage and don't mention engine stumbling, more like annoyance codes.


So... Any help? Some recent thread searching had me thinking about fuel pump sock, but ruled that out as it seems like only an issue after turning off / on the car after the engine was hot. My next thing was to maybe check fuel pump relay? Not sure if that would cause this kind of trouble?

Thanks all.
In your FSM, scroll to the section that describes problems. Mr. T. provides a list - from 1-10 - of likely culprits for each issue. You'll find numerous idling issues described in that section of the FSM. Start going through them. Start with the simple things and work your way up.
 
Hi all, been mostly a lurker here for a bit, but finally starting my own intro thread. Story time incoming.

I'm a long-time import car guy. My wife and I had our 15 minutes of fame several years ago coming from the Nissan Z world. I owned a highly modified 2009 Nissan 370Z and my wife owned a full resto-mod 1978 Datsun 280Z. Had import car magazine covers / website features etc.. Did lots of car shows in the Chicago area. We were known as the "Z couple" if you want to do some google searching. We got out of that scene 6-7 years ago. (we got old lol). More recently owned a 04 LS430 and 5th Gen 4Runner, current daily is a 2018 Tundra Platinum.

After searching for a long time, I picked up this 1996 Land Cruiser from BaT. Yes I know I paid a lot.

Despite the price, I felt like I got pretty lucky finding a southern owned, sub 100K mile car that didn't have a lot of rust. Post auction BaT shipping was a s***show and they spent 3 weeks trying to find a driver before I gave up. My Dad who is retired but still very healthy/active offered to fly down to Florida and drive the truck up the east coast to our current home in New Hampshire.

3 hours into the drive I get the call I was dreading... "Hey I've got a CEL" The car was running fine, all gauges looked normal. He stopped in at an Autozone and pulled a p0171 code. He also mentioned that on a gas fill up there was extreme pressure in the gas tank, the "PSSSHHH" was loud enough that I could hear it while i was on the phone with him. For the p0171, advised to buy some MAF cleaner and send it down towards the MAF to see if it helped, otherwise just keep on truckin...

Next day I get a call that after stopping for gas, the engine is stumbling / surging and has no power. Shutting it off for a minute and restarting seemed to help a little, enough for him to get on the highway and set the cruise to 60 and make the slow trek up I-95. This continued to happen throughout the duration of the trip where he'd suddenly lose power after stopping, has no power to merge onto the highway, He had a couple close calls on the shoulder to get it running enough to get going.

3 Days of driving a questionable car, somehow he made it.

After getting the car, I started to look it over a little more closely. Body / paint was in great shape, interior was a little rougher than the pics lead on to. Lots of small random s*** broken, driver door speaker, driver and passenger power seats not all functions working, hood latch sticks, driver door card vinyl torn. The listing did mention the sunroof was inoperable but didn't mention the trim around it was broken. All those are minor things IMO though and i'll eventually get to.

Turning to engine bay. Wanted to immediately address the gas tank pressure issue, tested the canister according to the FSM and sure enough it was clogged. Replaced with the recommended Duralast VC120. Thinking that stumbling / no power issue might be fuel related, also replaced the fuel filter, as the one there looked original. Also replaced spark plugs because it was an easy thing to try.

Looking closer though, its becoming apparent someone was "in there" over the years. Finding lots of wiring harnesses / relays that are not clipped in to their locations. A wiring harness over the trans dangling loose, another one rubbing on the driveshaft. One of the 2 breathers from the tranny dipstick (that goes to the top of the bellhousing) is just hanging there. Missing the blanket under the hood, missing the wheel well splash shields. Missing a splash shield under the front bumper area. Also there's no Cats on this car, someone replaced with a straight pipe. I think I need to fix that to pass NH inspection (not sure yet).

One thing I noticed too was the Neg battery terminal was loose, which also makes me think it was for easy clearing codes while trying to sell the car...

Seeing all these things, it makes me think the engine/trans was out of this car at one point. Trying not to be a conspiracy theorist here, but is there a way to verify that the engine in this car matches the VIN?

I can see lots of new parts, starter, alternator, all radiator hoses replaced. Brakes were done recently as well as knuckle rebuilds (although it still looks a little greasy around there). Carfax says EGR was serviced last year.


I knew going into this car it would still take some work on the little s*** that's broken. but the engine issue has got me feeling discouraged and not sure how to troubleshoot the stumbling / loss of power issue.

Here's my most recent experience. That p0171 code got cleared when the battery died on me and has not returned.

After replacing the fuel pump, I thought the problem had gone away. A couple drives around the neighborhood seemed promising. The other day I took a 25 minute drive down the highway to Home Depot and got the engine up to temp. On the way there things seemed good. Didn't have any stumbling at all and engine seemed strong.

My amazon bluetooth OBDII adaptor (Veepeak or some s***) talking to the Torque App on my phone showed Engine temp in the 165 range. Other notable things the Torque app is telling me, Short-term fuel trim is like +19ish. I'm not getting a reading at all for Long term fuel trim. Both O2 sensors are bouncing voltage ~.1 to .8 every second, which according to the FSM says they are good. I've got 25~ on Vacuum, and MAF is giving good readings. Catalyst reading is obviously not ready as there's none there...

Things seemed fine on the way there. When I got back in the car 15 mins later, it ran like s***. Like no power and wanting to die when i try to accelerate. I literally have to put the pedal to the floor to get it to stumble up to 3-4k RPM and then it will surge and start to move.

Interestingly, the Torque app when I'm having the stumbling problem, shows 0's for ShortTerm fuel trim and both o2 sensors. I had a hell of a time getting it back home, and it eventually threw p0125 and p0130 codes, but that sounds like a result of the zero readings from the o2 sensors and maybe not the cause?

I've dug thru threads about those codes, some mention ECT sensor, but those threads talk mostly about bad gas mileage and don't mention engine stumbling, more like annoyance codes.


So... Any help? Some recent thread searching had me thinking about fuel pump sock, but ruled that out as it seems like only an issue after turning off / on the car after the engine was hot. My next thing was to maybe check fuel pump relay? Not sure if that would cause this kind of trouble?

Thanks all.
Welcome!

Post up some pics of your truck, including the engine bay. As a tiny aside, I'd wager that the wiring you've found running over the top of the tranny is the neutral safety switch.

Edit: clicked the link. Lots of pics. Got it.
 
Last edited:
Can you send it back to the seller? Does BAT take any responsibility for the seller posting inaccurate sales info? For $30k you should have basically a new(ish) 80 series, as I would assume everything serviceable on the truck would have been replaced and or fixed at that high of a price point.
 
I’d pull that intake hose and check it for cracks. If it’s ok make sure it’s fully seated on the intake and maf side. The pics from the ad make me wonder if it’s installed all the way. Could be part of some issues.
 
Can you send it back to the seller? Does BAT take any responsibility for the seller posting inaccurate sales info? For $30k you should have basically a new(ish) 80 series, as I would assume everything serviceable on the truck would have been replaced and or fixed at that high of a price point.

Buyer's responsibility to do all research on what they're bidding on.

Innacurate sales info yes to a point, i've seen ads taken down because of it but has to be something major.

The buyer could get with the seller to try and arrange a return but it's all up to them. Still a used car sale so as is basically
Can just say kick rocks
 
1) Caveat emptor on a used car bought sight unseen.
2) $30K is insane money for any 80. Full stop.
3) Do a full soup to nuts baseline. Don't assume anything. If you ensure everything is in spec and replace failed components, eventually you'll solve it.
 
Hey OP, I just spent my lunch break carefully studying the BAT pictures. A few things that jumped out.

What’s going on with the sunroof? The seal around it looks chewed up and it looks like a bunch of black caulk on the driver side of the sunroof over the paint? Same deal with the seal/black sealant on the passenger side lower corner of the windshield.

Also was the reported accident a front end collision? I see very inconsistent gaps around the lower front balance (the metal red piece that the turn signals mount to) and an inconsistent gap around the upper grill/headlight/hood. You see how the gap is significantly bigger as you go from driver to passenger side of the front end? And the front bumper doesn’t look like it’s sitting correctly. It looks tilted up. It should be level.!
 
2) $30K is insane money for any 80. Full stop.

I blame the new money Patagonia-wearing fauxverlander bros for driving the prices up.
 
Hey OP, I just spent my lunch break carefully studying the BAT pictures. A few things that jumped out.

What’s going on with the sunroof? The seal around it looks chewed up and it looks like a bunch of black caulk on the driver side of the sunroof over the paint? Same deal with the seal/black sealant on the passenger side lower corner of the windshield.

Also was the reported accident a front end collision? I see very inconsistent gaps around the lower front balance (the metal red piece that the turn signals mount to) and an inconsistent gap around the upper grill/headlight/hood. You see how the gap is significantly bigger as you go from driver to passenger side of the front end? And the front bumper doesn’t look like it’s sitting correctly. It looks tilted up. It should be level.!
Accident was a side swipe according to BAT listing.

No catalytic converters? Holy smokes that was sneaky of the seller to slip that by without mentioning in their add. However, a close inspection of the photos does reveal this.
 
Congrats on the new vehicle. I mean, almost $30K for a FZJ80 and doesn't even have factory lockers...

Looks like the OP caught most things once he had the vehicle in hand. I won't repeat what OP found.

The left side paint does look wavy, which confirms the accident.

That external seal of the sunroof 🤪

Those seat leathers don't look original to me.

Depending on the photo, the carpet doesn't seem to match the carpet on the door. It is definitely an low buck aftermarket carpet...I have it as well. lol

1750709576940.png


I mean, ok...why not use a massive bolt to hold that on...

There is a picture of the speedometer at 14 mph, but no RPM, voltage, etc...

This looks like a basic FZJ80, without too many options, like auto climate.


1750710104284.png

Missing bolt

1750710131703.png


I believe gas release should be on the left..

1750710175880.png


I don't believe the tailgate stay is body matched..mine isn't.

Bad overspray everywhere.


1750710277478.png

Engine ground in the wrong location. That holds the engine harness, which it is not connected to. This usually means the engine, and/or the head has been pulled.

1750710336996.png

Missing clasp.

1750710467662.png


Missing all the fender seals/aprons...

I mean, that vehicle looks like it has 250K miles, not 100K.... If true, that is one hard 100K miles...
 
Check the comments on the listing.

Seller said this:
The carpet is original

Uhm, no.

This is the photo that gave it away as not original.

1750714222156.png

Those pads built into the carpet shows the carpet is aftermarket. They're cheap compared to OEM pads.

Photo of my aftermarket carpet...don't ask about the 2x4.. identical pads.
1750714322993.png


I have a photo of my original accelerator pad attached to the original carpet, barely visible.
1750714445235.png


To sum up my thoughts,

Yes, the engine/head has been pulled: ground wire to incorrect location.
Yes, the dash was probably pulled: fuel/hood release swapped
Yes, the door cards were pulled: incorrect fastener on door latch
The carpet replaced..

I mean, that is a ton of disassembling before 100K miles...

To confirm fuel release is indeed on the left:
1750712382943.png
 
Last edited:
It looks like a typical auction were they bid up the price just because it has low miles.

Is it me or does the undercarriage look funny too? Like some spots have a ton of surface rust and then spots right next to it look completely black in a very uneven fashion. Somebody paint it underneath too?
 
Ooof... tough audience. The buyer's remorse is palpable.

OP, if you want to ditch that thing and get a truck in better condition, I'll be selling my Sequoia soon. Deets in the sig. Probably looking for $45k, but I'll cut you a break since I feel bad and do ya $22.5k. Cats included.
 
In your FSM, scroll to the section that describes problems. Mr. T. provides a list - from 1-10 - of likely culprits for each issue. You'll find numerous idling issues described in that section of the FSM. Start going through them. Start with the simple things and work your way up.
Heard. No scrolling here, bought a used FSM on ebay, came with its own grease on the pages.

Welcome!

Post up some pics of your truck, including the engine bay. As a tiny aside, I'd wager that the wiring you've found running over the top of the tranny is the neutral safety switch.

Edit: clicked the link. Lots of pics. Got it.

Yeah not sure yet what it is, but it has some metal hold down clips that i'm guessing should have been screwed into something

good luck

looks clean but it's wild now what people spend on these

100% Agree.

Can you send it back to the seller? Does BAT take any responsibility for the seller posting inaccurate sales info? For $30k you should have basically a new(ish) 80 series, as I would assume everything serviceable on the truck would have been replaced and or fixed at that high of a price point.

I'm not sure but i'm going to wager they are of no help. At the end of the day its on me.

I’d pull that intake hose and check it for cracks. If it’s ok make sure it’s fully seated on the intake and maf side. The pics from the ad make me wonder if it’s installed all the way. Could be part of some issues.
I have checked that already. All good there. Along with that the throttle cable was routed stupidly and tried my best to get it back into proper position.
 
Two good resources that are easily accessible (and free) are the frequently asked questions at the top of the forum and the electronic copy of the factory service manual in the Resources section of this site. Virtually any question you have will have been asked and answered over and over in the last 30 years and much of it is on this forum. Searching (more effective using Google with the site keyword rather than the 'Mud built in search) will get tons of info on any topic, and people here will generally share an opinion or three if you post a question or ask for help. Welcome to 80 ownership. These days, most people will expect to spend upwards of $5k getting a typical 80 back to good condition, even without any major issues.
 
1) Caveat emptor on a used car bought sight unseen.
2) $30K is insane money for any 80. Full stop.
3) Do a full soup to nuts baseline. Don't assume anything. If you ensure everything is in spec and replace failed components, eventually you'll solve it.

1) I agree that I own it now, its my problem.
2) Agree. I expected to pay a premium, especially as these are like non-existent in the New England area.
3) Trying to go thru things. I think I need to pause and start with simple things just not throw parts at it.

Hey OP, I just spent my lunch break carefully studying the BAT pictures. A few things that jumped out.

What’s going on with the sunroof? The seal around it looks chewed up and it looks like a bunch of black caulk on the driver side of the sunroof over the paint? Same deal with the seal/black sealant on the passenger side lower corner of the windshield.

Also was the reported accident a front end collision? I see very inconsistent gaps around the lower front balance (the metal red piece that the turn signals mount to) and an inconsistent gap around the upper grill/headlight/hood. You see how the gap is significantly bigger as you go from driver to passenger side of the front end? And the front bumper doesn’t look like it’s sitting correctly. It looks tilted up. It should be level.!

Yeah the sunroof looks s***ty. I will get into it eventually.

As someone else commented, it was an old side-swipe on the carfax. Nothing reported about front-end. I do see what youre mentioning though. In person the bumper looks pretty level.

I blame the new money Patagonia-wearing fauxverlander bros for driving the prices up.

I bought some Wranglers from Wal-mart yesterday. They were on sale.

Accident was a side swipe according to BAT listing.

No catalytic converters? Holy smokes that was sneaky of the seller to slip that by without mentioning in their add. However, a close inspection of the photos does reveal this.

Yeah I don't know how I didn't notice it during the auction. It's on the list to fix.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom