Intake manifold / rookie !

[PistolPete]

It depends on how much money and time you have. When I get my rig out of the shop I know if will be at least $10,000 and I know I could have done a lot of the work myself, but for me anyway, it was worth the money to just leave my rig there and have them do a bunch of work in one fell swoop. All about time and money and money and time; both important to have with an Fj40. But, through all that, I LOVE my rig and I get it back this Saturday and will do any remaining work (mainly electrical) myself. Finally, like Sam said, this site is the BEST and there are lots of very smart folks who know the FJ40 inside and out--almost like museum curators some of them.

I have the time. My work schedule gives me half the week off. The part that pissed me off was seeing the fuel line wrapped in Duct tape, and I was thinking 'what else can kill me here?!'

 

[PistolPete]

I’ve been in the same boat, I know the feeling. I went ahead and had a shop work on it ($1100), it ran and ran good until it didn’t. I never bothered to go back there. Wish I had saved the money and ordered parts from vendors on here and did the work myself. At the time I didn’t have a garage or yard that I could leave the 40 in pieces, now I do and I love spending time working on the thing. I got mine running after a carb rebuild, and all new fuel lines and flushed fuel system. Very gratifying having the thing fire right up after a few years of being idle. Anyway, live and learn. The advice and information on this site is priceless. Good luck.

Hi Samatulich. I do have a similar situation. I'm renting a house, no garage. I got a canopy tent, and keep work noise quiet so as not to alert the owner lol.

 

[Martyt]

Duct tape is a great product; not ideal for that application (obviously). When I bought my rig, I brought it to the shop for a bunch of deferred maintenance. If seems like every time they touched something, some other issue would come up. Example, tank had leaking gasket near the filler. They removed my tank and then it leaked from the bottom (small rust spot). This lead to fixing tank, powder coating, etc--that whole thing cost me $500--heck I could have bought a new OEM tank for that. I can go on. With all that said, and except for the PTO work and adding in some mods, 80% of the work had to be done--brakes, parking brake, fluids, joints, front end rebuild, shocks, points, steering box, etc.

 

[wimberosa]

Find a decent machine shop. Take the manifolds off. Replace the gasket between
them (can be found at SOR). Connect both intake and exhaust manifold back together
after gasket replace (important! Don't get them honed separately).

Take them to the machine shop and they will tell
you how *off* it is and will put it (as one unit) on a belt sander. It costs about
$120 bucks to get the shop work. Then get you a new gasket (also from SOR)
to reattach to the head. The actual wrenching time to do what you want is
about 2 hours.

Here's what they look like when they've been honed down.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

 

[handcannon]

Everybody is spot on. A few busted knuckles are definitely worth the grins you will get afterwards. Wimberosa is correct on what he is saying about replacing the gasket between the manifolds and then planing the manifolds together. There is only one thing he doesn't cover, and I didn't think about it either. Have the areas where the bolts/studs on the head go through the manifolds spot surfaced. I ended up cutting washers into a C shape because the two manifolds weren't the same thickness. This created problems for me, until I added half washers in there so that I could torque the manifolds uniformly.

Don

 

[3_puppies]

another thought, don't just torque the manifold once. I will torque it down, start the engine to get warm then torque again. I will do it several times in a week until you get no more rotation to torque value.