Intake Manifold removal and clean and EGR delete (4 Viewers)

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Lenny33

Lenny33

Joined
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Conifer, Co
I am about ready to embark on the task of removing my intake manifold in order to clean it, and then do an EGR delete. As somebody that doesn’t have the mechanical knowledge base as most of the guys on the board, I find myself very reliant on detailed instructions (preferably, with a lot of pretty pics). I found a decent write up on Landcruiserclub.net, but I just wondered if any of you have done a write up I could refer to or know of a very comprehensive write up that I can follow? Thanks a bunch!
 
You’ll have to indicate engine and truck. Also, have you looked in the search feature?
 
i can take some pics for you of the deleted system this weekend if you like,
I didnt bother cleaning anything when i blocked/removed the egr stuff plus i ripped out the butterflys as well to help flow
 
Thanks! I think it will be fine- like I said, I do have a write up, just looking for a better one. Usually, things start to make sense as I get into it.
I am doing the manifold clean (depending on how gunked up it is) in an attempt to keep this engine cool. I just don’t understand why it keeps getting so dang hot! This evening I am driving from Denver 5280’ elevation to 8600’ elevation and the temp outside is about 70F. I am grandma driving up the hill at about 65 KPH, shifted down, and I am seeing EGTs approach 1200F and coolant temps at 203F. I have an aluminum radiator, new fan clutch, 3” down pipe and 3” exhaust.
Going crazy here!!
 
Last edited:
Lenny33 said:
Thanks! I think it will be fine- like I said, I do have a write up, just looking for a better one. Usually, things start to make sense as I get into it.
I am doing the manifold clean (depending on how gunked up it is) in an attempt to keep this engine cool. I just don’t understand why it keeps getting so dang hot! This evening I am driving from Denver 5280’ elevation to 8600’ elevation and the temp outside is about 70F. I am grandma driving up the hill at about 65 KPH, shifted down, and I am seeing EGTs approach 1200F and coolant temps at 203F. I have an aluminum radiator, new fan clutch, 3” down pipe and 3” exhaust.
Going crazy here!!
Click to expand...

Hey in my old FJ55, 2F and 35's I could only pull 35mph up that hill, so you've got me beat by 5mph! 🤣

I can tell you in my 2000 TDI Jetta, the EGR is terrible and gunks the intakes up completely. You have to do the Italian tuneup almost daily to make sure those cars clean out the gunk. I don't know if the 1KZ suffers the same issue, but cleaning the intake can't hurt. Anytime they add more emissions stuff, things just run worse, more complicated and hotter IMO.

You are pushing an over 4200lb brick, with oversize tires and 120hp rating at new up a 6% grade at altitude. :D Add a roof rack or any other bumpers and you are looking at more weight/drag.

Thats a decent hill to pull so I'm not surprised temps are higher. Are you running like 33's on stock gearing? If so thats working that small 4 cylinder harder and will cause EGT's to go up. Intercooler would help, that exhaust will help a ton as well.

Have you flushed the whole cooling system?
What is your flat ground EGT/temp running say at like 60mph?
 
I am running 33s with stock gearing.
Flat ground at around 55 or 60 mph had EGTs fluctuating between 8K to 10K I would say. I guess that I am surprised the dump pipe and exhaust didn’t help more. Maybe it did help a lot and temps were getting gcrazy high but I wasn’t aware of it. If I am seeing temps like this after exhaust and new fan clutch I can’t even imagine how hot I must have been getting it pre-gauges! How did I not already crack the head?!
 
It is crazy how hot these engines run stock. It's not a wonder they crack cylinder heads.

Some more tuning should get your EGT's under control. Running more boost helps a huge amount, as will an intercooler.

Water temps are another thing. I think you've already taken most of the right steps there. The problem is IDI turbo diesels dump tons of heat into the coolant via the pre-combustion chamber in the cylinder head. That is the cause of all the problems. Generally speaking, IDI's do much better without a turbo (like the 3B, 1HZ for example). You could put a bigger fan in still, as well as tweak your fan clutch to turn on earlier and use heavier silicone oil. Also, I HIGHLY recommend using a Tridon Australia Hi-Flo T-stat. These make a big difference and are an easy install.
 
Thanks for chiming I’m on this - I know you have a ton of knowledge on these engines. How closely do coolant temps and EGTs follow each other? You just mentioned the tri-don thermostat (ordered it yesterday) and fan (after ordering a replacement clutch a month ago, I now think I might drain that and change to a heavier fluid), which address engine temps, or coolant temps.... but how closely do they interact? Obviously, they are related, but just because I address engine temps via coolant, do I necessarily address my EGT?
 
The coolant temps/EGT/Oil temps are just an indication of how warm the engine is overall.

High EGT's don't necessarily mean high water temp and vice versa.
When all of your temps start getting high, then thats when you know the engine overall is probably working too hard or has some issues. I know the 1KZ and such tend to run hotter, (diesels like hot and with emissions they usually run them hotter as well) but you should be able to keep it plenty cool.

Complete cooling system flush, different coolant, water wetter/waterless for summer months
New fan clutch/fan or fluid
Radiator clean/boil (you might have some plugging which doesn't allow cooling) local shops can do this
Shroud, you haven't said so I'll assume the factory shroud is still in place, sometimes people remove these who knows why
High flow water pump and correct thermostat.
You could try a pusher electric fan as well, but the above should have your system running cool enough.


EGT will be the following:
Larger free flowing exhaust
Intercooler
boost, more helps lower within reason, a CT26 starts blowing hot air around 15psi
timing - lean timing causes higher EGT
There are probably chips for these, I don't know about these to help that much
 
Radiator is a new aluminum (came to me this way) and fluid looks good, but I guess that it wouldn’t hurt to flush when I add new fluid along with my new t-stat. New fan clutch, but I should probably change out fluid to a higher viscosity. Shroud is in place. I feel like once I change out the t-stat I will have done everything that I should have to do in regards to the cooling system.

I have not yet cleaned intake manifold, or done EGR delete, and it is without an Intercooler. I have backed off my spill control a bit with mild results.

I really hope that I can get this thing to run cool enough to drive in the mountains of Colorado. At this point, putting a camper behind it seems like a complete pipe dream.
 
Tired and frustrated- going to bed for tonight. In the morning I will be able to get that stupid electrical plug undone and I will figure out how I ever get to the back of the manifold to remove...
2009591
1561174379575.jpeg
 
Sometimes they need some persuasion with a small screwdriver. They get old and stiff. And, a bit brittle. Just be careful with that one. It's a little more important than some you will encounter.
 
It definitely runs cooler and stronger and the turbo seems to spin up better after this!
 
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