Insulation - Attic and crawl space?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Threads
176
Messages
12,366
Location
Carson City, NV
So I was lucky enough to be accepted into an Energy Efficiency program by the state. An evaluator came out to my house today and spent about 2hrs going through everything from pressurizing the house to checking ducting for leaking, insulation, major appliance energy usage, windows, doors, etc.

I will have the full report in a few days but the guys gave me an idea of his findings....
Little background... Our house is 1368sqft and was built in 1963. We bought it from the children of the original owner after she had passed away and they had done a few improvements to it. For instance, the front windows and French doors to the sunroom were replaced with nice Anderson items, carpet was redone, oil furnace was replaced with a nearer 85% efficiency furnace, etc.

The house is still rocking the original single pane, aluminum framed windows everywhere else as well as the original stove, cooktop and refrigerator from 1987. We replace the waterheater in 2011 when the old one from 1979 died on us and the electrical has been upgraded at the sockets to the standard 3-prong receptacles and at the fuse box with an actual breaker box, not old socket style fuses.

So talking with the guys he said our insulation was definitely an issue. State guidelines say we need an R49 value for the attic and ours is rated at R11. On top of that the subflooring is NOT insulated at all in the crawlspace thus he said while we have some insulating factors in the house the cold from the crawlspace really isn't helping matters.

My question is, once I get the full evaluation from him we have the option to do nothing with it, or pick certain items that the state will then give a non-interest bearing loan to fix. We will have a maximum of $6k to take from the loan of which they will automatically take $100 out of each paycheck, pre-tax, as a state employee. We will PROBABLY spend the majority of the money on new windows for the rest of the house but I was wondering if the insulation is really something that I should have a contractor do OR is it something that I can do myself, easily?
 
The attic is easy with rolls from store. The crawl space is gonna suck to do as it is dirty, etc. But you can take the time to line it with plastic on floor, etc.
 
Insulate the attic first, it will give you the most bang for the buck. Very easy job for average homeowner. Don't block the eaves, the air flow is important, it helps to keep the ice dams down in the winter.
 
Honestly, when I’ve compared prices between getting the insulation from the local big box store or having it installed, it usually comes out about a wash. The pros buy it in such quantity that their cost for the insulation is low enough that their labor is covered by the time you figure in the profit of the big box store.

Get a couple estimates, but I’ll bet you find this to be the case.

The other thing is that the most “bang for your buck” is in air sealing. An actual draft is going to lose heat 100x faster than a sealed wall with even some insulation.
 
Honestly, when I’ve compared prices between getting the insulation from the local big box store or having it installed, it usually comes out about a wash. The pros buy it in such quantity that their cost for the insulation is low enough that their labor is covered by the time you figure in the profit of the big box store.

Get a couple estimates, but I’ll bet you find this to be the case.

The other thing is that the most “bang for your buck” is in air sealing. An actual draft is going to lose heat 100x faster than a sealed wall with even some insulation.

▲THIS▲

As far as quickest payback look at LED lamps. Being from NV heat is your problem and halogen burn at ~325°, incandescent burn at ~220°, and LED average temp is ~88°. Payback in terms of energy $$ saved is less than a year when a given light burns 6 hours a day.

Also put your electric water heater on a timer = big saving with a quick payback
 
Yeah the house has been switched over to LED everywhere that we can, water heater is new and not set high. I will post more when I get the actual report from the guy. Working with the efficiency company I get to dictate what the money will go towards and they work with a set group of vendors/contractors.
 
Well just got the report finally and now just need to figure out how I can attach here as we have restricted access to dropbox. Basic report came back stating everything we knew and talked about. His estimated costs for the window replacement was $4500 based on average of $40/sqft for windows which he stated as low. Also recommended another $1500 for Attic insulation and another $2000 for crawlspace insulation. Talking with my MIL, who sold us the house and has been a realtor in the area for 25yrs, she said that with the older houses a lot of the time they did not put insulation below because the contractors were attempting to keep out moisture and seeing as the floors are wood under the carpet this would warp and what not. So that makes sense.

Main thing we will be going for is the windows, from there the rest of the money will go towards a refrigerator seeing as ours uses 3x the amount of energy it should... Report also had things like upgrading our existing 80% efficiency/105k BTU oil fired furnace to a newer 95% efficiency/70k furnace but seeing as ours was in good condition and working well that was just a recommendation and we would only see cost savings in the reduction of fuel expenditure when in use.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom