uHu
Bridgeburner
Commonly called the "Kick panel".
Early years have fuses at the left kick panel, later years also behind the right hand side kick panel.
Instrument Cluster Gauges All Dead Twice
- Thread starter CameraCruiser
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Early years have fuses at the left kick panel, later years also behind the right hand side kick panel.
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Toyota Land Cruiser (2000 – 2001) – fuse box diagram | Auto Geniusdiagrams thanks to Autogenius
I had this issue on my 100 series (HDJ100R) on the last trip and found this thread when trying to find the problem. I though I would share my findings and how I solved my particular problem.
Symptoms:
The instruments instrument lights were all dead,
The alternator was not charging,
The engine was cutting out when approaching intersections,
The reversing lights were not working,
I was unable to swicth to the sub tanks,
The fuse for the instrument panel was blown and would blow for random reasons if it was replaced,
There were no fault codes.
I was quickly running out of 15 Amp fuses and decided to try something different, I sildered two wires to a blown fuse and connected these to a rear indicator light globe that I had as a spare. I plugged this in in place of the fuse. This globe allowed enough current to make the instruments work provded I was not on the sub tanks or in reverse gear, the globe would light up brightly when the fault was present. It quickly became evident that the fault was present when I was in reverse gear.
My probelm turned out to be the reversing light switch which is mounted on the upper top left side of the gearbox (manual transmission) was shorting to earth when I was in reverse. I was able to unplug this swicth and replace the fuse and get home fom the trip.
The OP was having starting problems because the instrument cluster feeds power to the alternator regulator, without this the alternator does not work. I think OP's problem was a wiring fault in the reverse lights, hence the fire.
The instrument cluster fuse also powers the sub-fuel tank switch, the reversing lights, the alternator regulator and the instruments. I am not sure why the engine was cutting out but that problem righted itself once the probelm was fixed.
Cheers
Symptoms:
The instruments instrument lights were all dead,
The alternator was not charging,
The engine was cutting out when approaching intersections,
The reversing lights were not working,
I was unable to swicth to the sub tanks,
The fuse for the instrument panel was blown and would blow for random reasons if it was replaced,
There were no fault codes.
I was quickly running out of 15 Amp fuses and decided to try something different, I sildered two wires to a blown fuse and connected these to a rear indicator light globe that I had as a spare. I plugged this in in place of the fuse. This globe allowed enough current to make the instruments work provded I was not on the sub tanks or in reverse gear, the globe would light up brightly when the fault was present. It quickly became evident that the fault was present when I was in reverse gear.
My probelm turned out to be the reversing light switch which is mounted on the upper top left side of the gearbox (manual transmission) was shorting to earth when I was in reverse. I was able to unplug this swicth and replace the fuse and get home fom the trip.
The OP was having starting problems because the instrument cluster feeds power to the alternator regulator, without this the alternator does not work. I think OP's problem was a wiring fault in the reverse lights, hence the fire.
The instrument cluster fuse also powers the sub-fuel tank switch, the reversing lights, the alternator regulator and the instruments. I am not sure why the engine was cutting out but that problem righted itself once the probelm was fixed.
Cheers
Hi Folks,
I encountered the loss of cluster gauges recently. First noticed all out, then they came back on little by little .... lost again ... came back again etc. Now in the lost position. 15A "Gauges" fuse is good (tested using multi-meter). When the gauges last worked, the battery voltage gauge showed a very low voltage, but the battery and alternator are good, and the head lights work. I believe the rear vent switches don't work now, either. Turn signals, seatbag alarm and open door alarm work on the cluster.
I also had a little water (less than quarter cup in the worst episode) on the driver side floor every now and then when parked in rain (never when driving), and the driver side sunroof drain is, sure enough, clogged. I will work to clear that, but I am not sure if it is to blame for this.
Sounds like a loose connection? Mine is 1999 LC 100. Which of the connectors around the interior fuse box is for the cluster gauges, please?
Thanks in advance.
I encountered the loss of cluster gauges recently. First noticed all out, then they came back on little by little .... lost again ... came back again etc. Now in the lost position. 15A "Gauges" fuse is good (tested using multi-meter). When the gauges last worked, the battery voltage gauge showed a very low voltage, but the battery and alternator are good, and the head lights work. I believe the rear vent switches don't work now, either. Turn signals, seatbag alarm and open door alarm work on the cluster.
I also had a little water (less than quarter cup in the worst episode) on the driver side floor every now and then when parked in rain (never when driving), and the driver side sunroof drain is, sure enough, clogged. I will work to clear that, but I am not sure if it is to blame for this.
Sounds like a loose connection? Mine is 1999 LC 100. Which of the connectors around the interior fuse box is for the cluster gauges, please?
Thanks in advance.
ToyotaDon
I am here
It's the vertical one on the upper left in your picture (connector 2D) and the large one on the side of the fuse panel which is held together with a screw (connector 2P). If you think there is a problem caused by the water, look for any green corrosion on the terminals. You will only be able to get so far without factory service information, so check out the FAQ thread on how to get the FSM and EWD.
Thanks, Don, for identifying the connectors, but it is very difficult to work in that area while my car is parked uphill, so I didn't pull any of the connectors. Today, I decided to focus on an easier task - the instrument cluster. I took it out and inspected. It looks very good, with no rusted connectors, burnt components etc. I took the time to check the "D" gear indicator bulb, which was not lit previously. Turned out the bulb is good (tested using multimeter), so I put that back after cleaning the contact surfaces - cannot check function anyway, as the gauges remain dead.
Aside, while looking up from the driver side floor, I noticed a loose hanging 2-wire plug with one yellow wire near the OBD-II socket. That turned out to be the plug for the ventilation (temp?) sensor below the key/lock.
Original problem remains: gauges, gear indicator lamps (PRND..) and the set of alert signs (CEL etc) are out. Turn signals, instrument cluster illumination lamps, door open and airbag alerts and the buzzer function.
I am flying away for 4 weeks, so will have to continue work on this when I return around August. Thanks, again!
Aside, while looking up from the driver side floor, I noticed a loose hanging 2-wire plug with one yellow wire near the OBD-II socket. That turned out to be the plug for the ventilation (temp?) sensor below the key/lock.
Original problem remains: gauges, gear indicator lamps (PRND..) and the set of alert signs (CEL etc) are out. Turn signals, instrument cluster illumination lamps, door open and airbag alerts and the buzzer function.
I am flying away for 4 weeks, so will have to continue work on this when I return around August. Thanks, again!
Hi Folks,
I am back with this cruiser, and trying to figure this out.
Here are the developments since my previous post a month ago:
Instrument Cluster gauges have not functioned at all since then.
When this problem first occurred, actual battery voltage was normal (and above what the flickering battery gauge was indicating).
During my final drive 4 weeks ago, windshield wipers didn't work - which I now suspect, was due to low battery.
I parked the car, and went away for 4 weeks.
Three weeks after that, my friend found the battery dead, car would start on the jumper, but would die when jumper removed - indicating nonworking alternator.
Yesterday, I charged the battery to 12.5 V, and when engine started it dropped to 12.3 V. Drove 40 minutes to home, by when the voltage was 12.1 V.
I recharged the battery at home, and it is holding very well, so at least the battery is good.
The alternator is now the prime suspect, but how come no dash gauges even with a fully charged battery (with the engine running or not)?
When gauges flickered with the battery gauge showing less than the actual battery voltage, I suspected a loose connection, and there are a couple of things that I still have to check:
- I have never looked at the state of the negative wire from battery at the body; will remove the screw and clean tomorrow.
- 7.5 A Alt-S fuse is good (in the little fuse box next to the positive battery terminal)
- 100 A J/B No 2 fuse in that little box is a little loose. I believe it is supposed to be screwed down, so should not be loose. But how do you remove that fuse box's plastic covering to access the side screws that hold the fuse?
Finally can some loose electrical connection in the fusebox areas prevent the alternator from generating? Where should I look at, before taking the alternator out (it's a professionally rebuilt one installed by me about 15k miles ago to replace the original one which had become very noisy)?
Many thanks in advance!
I am back with this cruiser, and trying to figure this out.
Here are the developments since my previous post a month ago:
Instrument Cluster gauges have not functioned at all since then.
When this problem first occurred, actual battery voltage was normal (and above what the flickering battery gauge was indicating).
During my final drive 4 weeks ago, windshield wipers didn't work - which I now suspect, was due to low battery.
I parked the car, and went away for 4 weeks.
Three weeks after that, my friend found the battery dead, car would start on the jumper, but would die when jumper removed - indicating nonworking alternator.
Yesterday, I charged the battery to 12.5 V, and when engine started it dropped to 12.3 V. Drove 40 minutes to home, by when the voltage was 12.1 V.
I recharged the battery at home, and it is holding very well, so at least the battery is good.
The alternator is now the prime suspect, but how come no dash gauges even with a fully charged battery (with the engine running or not)?
When gauges flickered with the battery gauge showing less than the actual battery voltage, I suspected a loose connection, and there are a couple of things that I still have to check:
- I have never looked at the state of the negative wire from battery at the body; will remove the screw and clean tomorrow.
- 7.5 A Alt-S fuse is good (in the little fuse box next to the positive battery terminal)
- 100 A J/B No 2 fuse in that little box is a little loose. I believe it is supposed to be screwed down, so should not be loose. But how do you remove that fuse box's plastic covering to access the side screws that hold the fuse?
Finally can some loose electrical connection in the fusebox areas prevent the alternator from generating? Where should I look at, before taking the alternator out (it's a professionally rebuilt one installed by me about 15k miles ago to replace the original one which had become very noisy)?
Many thanks in advance!
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Hi All,
I found the answer to one of my questions:
The cover (sides) of the small fuse box next to the positive battery terminal drops down after you release the clip (tab) on the driver side and the two clips on the passenger side end. Yesterday, I was trying to lift up the top!
Please see photo attached.
Now I am going to check the fuses there.
My biggest question remains: how come no dash gauges even with a fully charged battery (with the engine running or not)?
Maybe the alternator is the victim, not the culprit?
I am going to test the alternator by identifying connecting wires at the above fuse box and the other fuse/relay boxes in the engine bay. Any help identifying the wires connecting the alternator to the engine bay electricals would be much appreciated! Thanks!
I found the answer to one of my questions:
The cover (sides) of the small fuse box next to the positive battery terminal drops down after you release the clip (tab) on the driver side and the two clips on the passenger side end. Yesterday, I was trying to lift up the top!
Please see photo attached.
Now I am going to check the fuses there.
My biggest question remains: how come no dash gauges even with a fully charged battery (with the engine running or not)?
Maybe the alternator is the victim, not the culprit?
I am going to test the alternator by identifying connecting wires at the above fuse box and the other fuse/relay boxes in the engine bay. Any help identifying the wires connecting the alternator to the engine bay electricals would be much appreciated! Thanks!
Is that right?
Anyway, in my case, I have not found any blown fuses. Still a possible connection between the instrument cluster and the alternator is seen.
ALT-S, ALT and J/B No 2 fuses are ok.
I found (by measuring) that no current passes through the 7.5 A ALT-S fuse (to the alternator's field coil) - whether ignition is off, on, or engine running. The full battery voltage appears across it. So no wonder there is no alternator output.
Since this fuse box webpage: Toyota Land Cruiser (1998 - 1999) - fuse box diagram - Auto Genius - https://www.autogenius.info/toyota-land-cruiser-1998-1999-fuse-box-diagram/
mentions that the fuse # 51 affects Charging system, Gauges, Wipers etc, I checked it, but that's also good.
I tried my good old OBD code reader: while it turns on automatically upon plugging in, it's not establishing connection. Does that mean a bad "computer", or is this another weird outcomes of alternator malfunction?
Thanks for any information, ideas or suggestions!
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ToyotaDon
I am here
How did you measure current at the fuse? When you say full battery voltage appears across it, that sounds like you did a voltage drop test across the fuse and read battery voltage, which would indicate an open fuse. Please clarify how you made this measurement as well.
You already know there is a wiring problem, so don't blame the alternator until you've fixed the root issue. Not sure if I mentioned this before, but I have had to replace an entire underhood fuse box for an intermittent engine stalling concern. It finally got bad enough that I could test for power in but no power out and, even then, it still felt like a roll of the dice to spend the coin for a new fuse box (just mentioning it as a possibility).
Thanks, Don!
Your comments are really helpful.
I measured current at the ALT-S fuse by removing the fuse, and plugging in multimeter in the Amp mode across the fuse holder posts.
I was not going to replace the alternator, as I had just put it (bought directly from a professional rebuilder) 15k miles ago. I had just ordered a set of brushes, and the alternator plug replacement (mine wasn't totally fragile when I worked on it a few years ago, but it had become warped, and I was suspecting that maybe it broke apart or came loose).
But rethinking why the alternator field coil is not getting a current, together with other issues (no dash and no computer connection on OBD II port), I am now leaning back towards a wiring issue. Possibly the alternator field coil is not getting a current because the circuit is not getting completed at the ignition key end.
I have to say, though, that there is a funny alternator connection to other functions, as some others had also observed; but this maybe due to a wiring fault. For example, with the Alt-S and Alt fuses (by the battery + end) removed, the radio doesn't work!
At my place I am not supposed to repair cars, plus I am parked uphill, and the door closes by itself on me, so can't work on the driver side under-the-dash fusebox first. Fortunately, I can drive the car on a fully charged battery to a friend's place to check it, and I hope to do that sometime next week. I will keep you posted.
THANKS AGAIN!
Hi Folks,
I finally got around to the fuse box by the driver side kick panel.
No firm signs of water damage, except for little green oxide on a few pins on one plug on bottom left. But that's enough to make me want to remove the entire fusebox and check the rear side too.
I disconnected almost all the connectors.
Top left plug has not come out yet - apparently welded (possibly from arcing), and this may well be the source of the problem. Since there are only 5 wires going into it, i might decide to cut the wires to remove the fusebox.
There is one other plug, the yellow one seen on the top right of the following photo, that I couldn't figure out how to remove. I turned the latch to the left, and tried to lift up the plug, without success. How does this yellow plug come out?
Thanks in advance!
I finally got around to the fuse box by the driver side kick panel.
No firm signs of water damage, except for little green oxide on a few pins on one plug on bottom left. But that's enough to make me want to remove the entire fusebox and check the rear side too.
I disconnected almost all the connectors.
Top left plug has not come out yet - apparently welded (possibly from arcing), and this may well be the source of the problem. Since there are only 5 wires going into it, i might decide to cut the wires to remove the fusebox.
There is one other plug, the yellow one seen on the top right of the following photo, that I couldn't figure out how to remove. I turned the latch to the left, and tried to lift up the plug, without success. How does this yellow plug come out?
Thanks in advance!
ToyotaDon
I am here
Your PM said you got the yellow (air bag system) connector out, but here's a little clarification. The latch piece you lifted up should just be to hold the wires and terminals in the connector. Releasing the connector is done by pressing in the tab which is visible in the center of the side of the connector (usually done by prying with a small screwdriver). That said, air bag connectors always have a secondary lock, so the latch piece may have needed removal anyway.
This looks like a great learning experience!
This looks like a great learning experience!
Thanks, again, Donal!
Yes, I managed to take out the fusebox. Green corrosion is mainly in the top left connector, and to a much lesser (and probably insignificant) extent in bottom left and the left middle/side connectors. To fix the top left connector, I will need to split open the fusebox, as at least one of the pins in that connector is almost detached. Trying to do open this module now; looks like several plastic rivets need to be broken in addition to unlatching clips/tabs along the sides of the clamshells.
I will write a separate post when I am done with this project.
Following website has the fusebox diagrams: Toyota Land Cruiser 100 (1998-2003) Fuse Diagram • FuseCheck.com - https://fusecheck.com/toyota/toyota-land-cruiser-100-1998-2003-fuse-diagram
Best Regards!
Yes, I managed to take out the fusebox. Green corrosion is mainly in the top left connector, and to a much lesser (and probably insignificant) extent in bottom left and the left middle/side connectors. To fix the top left connector, I will need to split open the fusebox, as at least one of the pins in that connector is almost detached. Trying to do open this module now; looks like several plastic rivets need to be broken in addition to unlatching clips/tabs along the sides of the clamshells.
I will write a separate post when I am done with this project.
Following website has the fusebox diagrams: Toyota Land Cruiser 100 (1998-2003) Fuse Diagram • FuseCheck.com - https://fusecheck.com/toyota/toyota-land-cruiser-100-1998-2003-fuse-diagram
Best Regards!
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ToyotaDon
I am here
What you see as rivets are more like plastic spot welds. They can either be drilled or melted carefully. Plastic rivets could probably be used during assembly, but I have never personally done this.
Belated good news on my cruiser; it’s working well now.
I finished the interior (US driver side) fuse box restoration the same day as I opened it (Aug 9th). The opened fuse box showed some surface oxidation films on connecting metal strips, but more severe corrosion was found in the top left plug and the connector. One almost-broken connector pin was repaired by soldering a piece of copper strip. Put everything back; no improvement. But that was good preventive maintenance, considering the corroded wire could have broken at any time.
Next, I figured that I need to trace the wiring to pinpoint this. While I had some EWD docs (at least for a different model year), I was busy with other things … until yesterday evening.
Realizing that all the systems that were not functioning (dash gauges, alternator, wipers etc) would normally energize only when the key is in ignition position, I decided to check the ignition-related relays in the engine bay junction box. Voila! The relay IG1 was the cause of the problem!
Thanks to Donal and everyone who helped! Hope this helps someone else who might be encountering similar problems. While my engine bay relay box has been clean and dry for the last 10 years, I think the age is showing on the relays.
I finished the interior (US driver side) fuse box restoration the same day as I opened it (Aug 9th). The opened fuse box showed some surface oxidation films on connecting metal strips, but more severe corrosion was found in the top left plug and the connector. One almost-broken connector pin was repaired by soldering a piece of copper strip. Put everything back; no improvement. But that was good preventive maintenance, considering the corroded wire could have broken at any time.
Next, I figured that I need to trace the wiring to pinpoint this. While I had some EWD docs (at least for a different model year), I was busy with other things … until yesterday evening.
Realizing that all the systems that were not functioning (dash gauges, alternator, wipers etc) would normally energize only when the key is in ignition position, I decided to check the ignition-related relays in the engine bay junction box. Voila! The relay IG1 was the cause of the problem!
Thanks to Donal and everyone who helped! Hope this helps someone else who might be encountering similar problems. While my engine bay relay box has been clean and dry for the last 10 years, I think the age is showing on the relays.
Hello everybody and thanks. This thread has been a godsend. Decades long reader first time typer.
I just thought that I would share my experience and maybe shed some more light on this. After weeks of similar symptoms that 15 amp instrument panel fuse is the key to it all, at least for me. I'm not 100% confident but it seems to be a very integral part of this somewhat simple charging system.
I have a fabbed a coastal off-road front bumper and the blinkers are now LED in that. Because the wife and I were getting frustrated with the blinkers blinking fast I bought off Amazon a LED flasher relay and all bulbs for the rear blinkers, backup, and tail lights.
The LX 470 came with the AHC already deleted. After perusing around on YouTube I came across Tim and the toolman AHC delete video and at the end of that video he shows how to unplug three connectors on the right side underneath the dash that will help the light not flash at you telling you that the system is off. That did work no issues until I messed with the blinkers.
Right after I did all the stuff with the blinkers we're driving about 4 miles from the house and the dash goes completely dead no lights no gauges same as listed above in others experience. I immediately go to alternator replacement thoughts. The truck seemingly drove normal after the dash went out. Drove another 5 miles to the in-laws for dinner. And before we left I let the truck run in their driveway to warm up the heater for the kids for about 15 minutes All the headlights on heater blowing full blast defrosters mirror and back window on. Go back on the highway drove about 4 miles and the whole thing dies. Brother-in-law was behind me jumped the car and that got us about another 500 yards. Jump the car again to get off the highway yet we let the cars sit there and charge via jumper cables for about 10 minutes at that point. Got another mile down the road and it died for the third time. At that point we were only about 2 miles from our house so I went home got the two batteries out of our camper trailer wired them in series and ran the jumper cable to the battery in the truck and was able to get it back home. High school shot class taught me that if your alternator is bad get the car running and disconnect the positive battery terminal. Did that car dies immediately. Go to the our local O'Reilly Auto parts store have them test the charging system their tester says bad voltage regulator within the alternator. New alternator is cheaper than the voltage regulator with less work for me, so I buy a new alternator. Install that. See that the dash has not come back on start going into finding the fuse. Replace the 15 amp instrument panel fuse on the left kick panel. Think all is great. This is not the case. Leave in a snowy blizzard on Christmas Eve and the instrument panel immediately goes out... Blown 15 amp fuse. Luckily I had about 10 spares in the truck. And have since replaced every single one of those 15 amp fuses. The fuse will last between 4 seconds and 30 minutes of driving.
After reading this I am curious as it looks like we have a leaky windshield seal on the sides. I don't seem to have any corrosion but I have not pulled the whole fuse panel out. The system charges when that fuse is good dash lights and all gauges work great other lights in the console work the operation for the rear vent windows work mirrors move. When that fuse is blown nothing works including the charging system.
I saw in two of the wiring diagrams that a brown and orange wire goes to the auto height control ECU so I did plug all that stuff back in.
After reading all this and hopefully continuing to get to the bottom of the fuse blowing.It's very curious to me that all this is contingent on the one fuse. I will continue to watch this thread and offer any help as I try to get to the bottom of it. As listed above the fuse is not fixing the issue there has to be some sort of electrical short or possibly corrosion maybe even just moisture. We have received about 2 ft of snow in the past 3 days and this car is very wet and soggy on the inside.
Again thank you and I love you all for sharing!
I just thought that I would share my experience and maybe shed some more light on this. After weeks of similar symptoms that 15 amp instrument panel fuse is the key to it all, at least for me. I'm not 100% confident but it seems to be a very integral part of this somewhat simple charging system.
I have a fabbed a coastal off-road front bumper and the blinkers are now LED in that. Because the wife and I were getting frustrated with the blinkers blinking fast I bought off Amazon a LED flasher relay and all bulbs for the rear blinkers, backup, and tail lights.
The LX 470 came with the AHC already deleted. After perusing around on YouTube I came across Tim and the toolman AHC delete video and at the end of that video he shows how to unplug three connectors on the right side underneath the dash that will help the light not flash at you telling you that the system is off. That did work no issues until I messed with the blinkers.
Right after I did all the stuff with the blinkers we're driving about 4 miles from the house and the dash goes completely dead no lights no gauges same as listed above in others experience. I immediately go to alternator replacement thoughts. The truck seemingly drove normal after the dash went out. Drove another 5 miles to the in-laws for dinner. And before we left I let the truck run in their driveway to warm up the heater for the kids for about 15 minutes All the headlights on heater blowing full blast defrosters mirror and back window on. Go back on the highway drove about 4 miles and the whole thing dies. Brother-in-law was behind me jumped the car and that got us about another 500 yards. Jump the car again to get off the highway yet we let the cars sit there and charge via jumper cables for about 10 minutes at that point. Got another mile down the road and it died for the third time. At that point we were only about 2 miles from our house so I went home got the two batteries out of our camper trailer wired them in series and ran the jumper cable to the battery in the truck and was able to get it back home. High school shot class taught me that if your alternator is bad get the car running and disconnect the positive battery terminal. Did that car dies immediately. Go to the our local O'Reilly Auto parts store have them test the charging system their tester says bad voltage regulator within the alternator. New alternator is cheaper than the voltage regulator with less work for me, so I buy a new alternator. Install that. See that the dash has not come back on start going into finding the fuse. Replace the 15 amp instrument panel fuse on the left kick panel. Think all is great. This is not the case. Leave in a snowy blizzard on Christmas Eve and the instrument panel immediately goes out... Blown 15 amp fuse. Luckily I had about 10 spares in the truck. And have since replaced every single one of those 15 amp fuses. The fuse will last between 4 seconds and 30 minutes of driving.
After reading this I am curious as it looks like we have a leaky windshield seal on the sides. I don't seem to have any corrosion but I have not pulled the whole fuse panel out. The system charges when that fuse is good dash lights and all gauges work great other lights in the console work the operation for the rear vent windows work mirrors move. When that fuse is blown nothing works including the charging system.
I saw in two of the wiring diagrams that a brown and orange wire goes to the auto height control ECU so I did plug all that stuff back in.
After reading all this and hopefully continuing to get to the bottom of the fuse blowing.It's very curious to me that all this is contingent on the one fuse. I will continue to watch this thread and offer any help as I try to get to the bottom of it. As listed above the fuse is not fixing the issue there has to be some sort of electrical short or possibly corrosion maybe even just moisture. We have received about 2 ft of snow in the past 3 days and this car is very wet and soggy on the inside.
Again thank you and I love you all for sharing!
Quick update 2 hours after last post. 15 amp fuse will hold in garage idling revving loading the car up with all the light bars, flood lights, heater seat heaters. Even plugged the fridge in. Try to add as much load to the car as possible. 12.4 volts across battery terminals. Without a load the battery is charging at 13.8 volts. I can disconnect both negative and positive from the battery and the truck will continue to run. If I go into reverse that fuse pops immediately. Sitting in the garage idling everything is perfect! Attached is the charging wiring diagram I've been working off of. Upper right is the 15 amp gauge fuse that keeps blowing and killing the entire charging system. All other systems seem to be operable when the fuse goes except for the rear vents the mirror adjustment, and obviously all of the instrument cluster.
Any ideas please help.
Any ideas please help.
Someone posted about a short on their shifter I read in another post? But he stated if recall as soon as he put it into reverse the fuse would pop. Fixed the grounding in the reverse shifting area and it resolved itself. Ymmv
