installing new lines and bleeding 80 series brakes? (1 Viewer)

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legends,
any good vids on doing brakes? like i have "speed bleeders" that are going into the calipers but i'm still a little hazy on how i bleed lines? do i need two people? can i do it by gravity or by clamping lines?
and do i clamp body to axle lines to get the axle to caliper lines in? if so how do i get the body to axle lines in? is there a soft line below the MC?
also is there a way to torque a new rotor with it on the axle? toolman says to get someone to hold it when torquing the new rotor on but it seems like you could do it yourself if you were crafty?
THANKS
 
I would not clamp soft lines it could damage them. I would just change the lines/ calipers needed then bleed. Starting with rr - lr- rf - lf it is easier with 2 people but you can get a bleeding kit from parts store and do it by yourself easily.
 
Bleeding an 80 series can be a bit of a chore. I would recommend doing your homework on the bleeding process. In addition to the 4 calipers there you should bleed the LSPV. Then there is the issue that our rigs can get air trapped in the ABS module. There is no fancy way to bleed that, but lots of threads on how to overcome that as well.

Before you open it up to R&R the lines, read through the COPIOUS volume of threads on bleeding an 80. Its well discussed. But as far as I know there are not and good videos. Probably because mechanically its simple, but in practice it just seems to take some of us forever to get all the air out of the system.
 
I would not clamp soft lines it could damage them. I would just change the lines/ calipers needed then bleed. Starting with rr - lr- rf - lf it is easier with 2 people but you can get a bleeding kit from parts store and do it by yourself easily.
thanks man. starting to wonder if i can just follow the FSM.
do you know where LSPV fits in that order?
also aside from bleeding will the lines leak where i disconnect them? AND do i just basically remove lines and put the new ones in with the new parts or is there more to it?
 
Do Not allow the Reservoir to get Low else it Suck Air.
Try to run or suck (turkey baster) all the Fluid Out of the Reservoir so you have Fresh.
Brake Fluid Attracts Moisture and Moisture makes the Fluid Less Effective.
The 80 uses the Standard Process - see the Video attached.

 
i bleed LSPV first,
then pass. side rear
then driver side rear,
then pass. side front,
then driver side front. repeat as needed.
might try LSPV second after pass. side rear if bleeding it first doesn't work out.

also, if bleeding brakes without help and have a good used hood or trunk strut available you can place it between brake pedal & front of seat bottom to hold pressure on brake pedal after you pump it a few times.
adjust seat for length & pressure of strut. place lower end of rod on brake pedal & top end of strut against seat front.
place blanket or spare cushion in front of seat bottom to protect seat from strut end.
be sure it's positioned so doesn't slip (!)
i also use a bleeder kit for less mess and speed bleeders not needed when done this way.
TAKE CARE STRUT DOES NOT SLIP.
You can place a blanket over it when in position for extra safety.
Without a strut I've even used a 2x4 in-between brake pedal & seat bottom but constant pedal pressure then relies on adjustment and the pushin' from the cushion so a bit more effort that way.
cheers
 
legends,
any good vids on doing brakes? like i have "speed bleeders" that are going into the calipers but i'm still a little hazy on how i bleed lines? do i need two people? can i do it by gravity or by clamping lines?
and do i clamp body to axle lines to get the axle to caliper lines in? if so how do i get the body to axle lines in? is there a soft line below the MC?
also is there a way to torque a new rotor with it on the axle? toolman says to get someone to hold it when torquing the new rotor on but it seems like you could do it yourself if you were crafty?
THANKS
It may not be in your budget, but I had issues bleeding the brakes on my 80 a couple years back. I bought the truck with crappy brakes and it turns out my ABS module was full of trashy rusty fluid. The pressure bleeder got all of the air out of the system and lets you bleed it yourself in just a few minutes. It costed me $120 with the adapter on Amazon and has paid for itself many many times over and makes zero mess. Just a thought.
 
I have also purchased the pressure bleeder. like @ZetheGSD said the the powerbleeder is excelelnt for a one man show. The key is purchasing a proper fitting for the Master, or you will hate it. Figure it will cost you as much as the bleeder for a good one. I bought a Power Probe BA10 to use with a motive bleeder. I would avoid anything that pulls a vacuum, go for one that pressurizes the master. Bonus is that this setup fits my 1990 22-RE engine as well. I haven't tried it on the new Taco.

Another tip is to make sure you have a good 10mm wrench for the bleeders. They are very easy to round. Ideally you should by a 10mm bleeding wrench that is 6point--if only for the initial loosening. Depending on how old and neglected your system is and your location in the world you may need to hit them all with a little penetrating oil too. Like any job there are lots of ways to do it, but the older and crustier the truck the nicer it is to have good tools at your back, especially when you are working on a system your life depends on.

 
I have also purchased the pressure bleeder. like @ZetheGSD said the the powerbleeder is excelelnt for a one man show. The key is purchasing a proper fitting for the Master, or you will hate it. Figure it will cost you as much as the bleeder for a good one. I bought a Power Probe BA10 to use with a motive bleeder. I would avoid anything that pulls a vacuum, go for one that pressurizes the master. Bonus is that this setup fits my 1990 22-RE engine as well. I haven't tried it on the new Taco.

Another tip is to make sure you have a good 10mm wrench for the bleeders. They are very easy to round. Ideally you should by a 10mm bleeding wrench that is 6point--if only for the initial loosening. Depending on how old and neglected your system is and your location in the world you may need to hit them all with a little penetrating oil too. Like any job there are lots of ways to do it, but the older and crustier the truck the nicer it is to have good tools at your back, especially when you are working on a system your life depends on.

hey. have you got any links for a good pressure bleeder? i kind of would rather buy nicer tools than cheap tools. somehow i get satisfaction out of using nice tools but also if i sell to i don't have a hard time getting most of my money back.
but also - is there some brake line specific tool kit i can buy? someone mentioned picking one up but i didn't quite catch what i would use it for? do i get some kind of swage tool for brake lines? i mean i know i am not going to be making my own brake lines but is there some kind of tool that forms up the hard line or something to accept the new OEM runner lines?
lastly ANY ideas on where to find quality wrenches for the brake lines? i picked up a bunch at oriellys and was going to return whatever didn't fit but i'd love to have a quality wrench in my to go toolkit for the truck?
THANKS gents.
 
hey. have you got any links for a good pressure bleeder? i kind of would rather buy nicer tools than cheap tools. somehow i get satisfaction out of using nice tools but also if i sell to i don't have a hard time getting most of my money back.
but also - is there some brake line specific tool kit i can buy? someone mentioned picking one up but i didn't quite catch what i would use it for? do i get some kind of swage tool for brake lines? i mean i know i am not going to be making my own brake lines but is there some kind of tool that forms up the hard line or something to accept the new OEM runner lines?
lastly ANY ideas on where to find quality wrenches for the brake lines? i picked up a bunch at oriellys and was going to return whatever didn't fit but i'd love to have a quality wrench in my to go toolkit for the truck?
THANKS gents.
I picked up an ARES brand pressure brake bleeder kit off of Amazon. I’m would recommend the 2 liter size or bigger so you have plenty of room to replenish the master cylinder as you bleed fluid. Make sure to pick up the Toyota/Lexus adapter that clamps around the lid of the master cylinder. That gets you set for the bleeding.

As far as wrenches go I’d recommend a quality set of flare wrenches that will avoid rounding off your bleeder screws. No guarantee you won’t ruin a bleeder screw if things are rusty. Just be prepared for the worst and have backup transport when you tackle this job. With our cruisers being around 30 years old crap happens when you work on these.

I’m not sure of your question on brake lines.
 
I picked up an ARES brand pressure brake bleeder kit off of Amazon. I’m would recommend the 2 liter size or bigger so you have plenty of room to replenish the master cylinder as you bleed fluid. Make sure to pick up the Toyota/Lexus adapter that clamps around the lid of the master cylinder. That gets you set for the bleeding.

As far as wrenches go I’d recommend a quality set of flare wrenches that will avoid rounding off your bleeder screws. No guarantee you won’t ruin a bleeder screw if things are rusty. Just be prepared for the worst and have backup transport when you tackle this job. With our cruisers being around 30 years old crap happens when you work on these.

I’m not sure of your question on brake lines.
so like this thing? 3-Liter Vacuum Brake Fluid Bleeder - https://www.arestool.com/collections/brake-service/products/3-liter-vacuum-brake-fluid-bleeder
and this adapter kit?
 
I picked up an ARES brand pressure brake bleeder kit off of Amazon. I’m would recommend the 2 liter size or bigger so you have plenty of room to replenish the master cylinder as you bleed fluid. Make sure to pick up the Toyota/Lexus adapter that clamps around the lid of the master cylinder. That gets you set for the bleeding.

As far as wrenches go I’d recommend a quality set of flare wrenches that will avoid rounding off your bleeder screws. No guarantee you won’t ruin a bleeder screw if things are rusty. Just be prepared for the worst and have backup transport when you tackle this job. With our cruisers being around 30 years old crap happens when you work on these.

I’m not sure of your question on brake lines.
also please. i never understood why i would need a brake line flaring tool. its so i can make my own hard lines i guess? or so i can fix existing OEM brake lines if they have a problem?
 
also please. i never understood why i would need a brake line flaring tool. its so i can make my own hard lines i guess? or so i can fix existing OEM brake lines if they have a problem?
You wouldn’t need a brake line flaring tool unless you’re fabricating your own brake line from scratch. If you buy a line (which I believe they are all available) it will come ready to bolt in with fittings and flares already in place.
 
so like this thing? 3-Liter Vacuum Brake Fluid Bleeder - https://www.arestool.com/collections/brake-service/products/3-liter-vacuum-brake-fluid-bleeder
and this adapter kit?
You can use whatever kit fits your budget but I have two pics of what works well on Toyota below. You want the hand pump model as it works amazing and you don’t have to pump much at all to retain pressure. Also you don’t need shop air and can bleed brakes anywhere you like with that model. The fitting shown below is the Toyota Lexus model that fits our 80 and most other models.

IMG_1986.png


IMG_1985.png
 
Do Not allow the Reservoir to get Low else it Suck Air.
Try to run or suck (turkey baster) all the Fluid Out of the Reservoir so you have Fresh.
Brake Fluid Attracts Moisture and Moisture makes the Fluid Less Effective.
The 80 uses the Standard Process - see the Video attached.


thanks a ton gents.
so help me here. he seems to get all the fluid out first before replacing lines which i like. but it means you would do it twice i guess?
-
suck brake fluid out of MC. replace with new.
crack bleeder on lspv. pump brakes until clear. refill MC.
crack bleeder on left rear, right rear, front left, then front right.
then, then clamp 3 lines from frame to axle.
replace rotors and calipers, put in four new brake lines.
then cut 3 lines near axle. install 3 new brake lines. crack the other side of the cut line and have a towel underneath. then undo the line and replace each with the other end if the new lines?
them repeat bleed procedure starting with LSPV?
does that sound right?
THANKS 🙏
 
You can use whatever kit fits your budget but I have two pics of what works well on Toyota below. You want the hand pump model as it works amazing and you don’t have to pump much at all to retain pressure. Also you don’t need shop air and can bleed brakes anywhere you like with that model. The fitting shown below is the Toyota Lexus model that fits our 80 and most other models.

View attachment 3682523

View attachment 3682524
thanks a ton for this. so @Hornd posted a great video. he seems to do it manually and i posted what seems to me to be the cheat sheet version above.
with the hand pump version (or the compressor as i do have one) - i didn't quite catch how the brake fluid goes into the MC or how the brake fluid comes out of the caliper. otramms was kind of crappy for this. it didn't show how he did it he just looks something up to the MC
i mean what is the process with the hand pump or compressor method? i did have some kind of hand pump that sucked brake fluid out for my motorcycle but it was sort of crappy and i just gravity bleed them now.
 

Same process for most of these bleeder systems. Tank holds fluid and pressurizes it. Then you bleed at calipers like normal. This system cuts out the brake pedal pumping, effectively making it a one man job.
 
There's a better adapter that sorta screws into the reservoir top for a tight fit without a funky chain the Power Probe BA10 Toyota Master Cylinder adapter
IIRC one of the companies that sells the BA10 adapter also sells the push on connector with a short length of hose, read through the links below.

Motive Power Bleeder (pressure bottle) is well made IME. I purchased a couple of MOTIVE collection bottles but you can use anything to collect
the fluid coming out of the calipers. The Motive bottles made it easier to hang as they come with a short cable, but they don't have a one way valve
ie; not the same as a one-way bleeder bottle. But then a one-way bottle isn't needed if using the pressure bleeder as you aren't pumping the brake pedal,
there's continuous pressure on the fluid as you close the bleed screws.

Previous discussion with photos and links:





 
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There's a better adapter that screws onto the reservoir top for a tight fit without a funky chain the Power Probe BA10 Toyota Master Cylinder adapter
IIRC one of the companies that sells the BA10 adapter also sells the push on connector with a short length of hose, read through the links below.

Motive Power Bleeder (pressure bottles) is well made IME. I purchased a couple of MOTIVE collection bottles but you can use anything to collect
the fluid coming out of the calipers. The Motive bottles made it easier to hang as they come with a short cable, but they don't have a one way valve
ie; not the same as a one-way bleeder bottle. But then a one-way bottle isn't needed if using the pressure bleeder as you aren't pumping the brake pedal,
there's continuous pressure on the fluid as you close the bleed screws.

Previous discussion with photos and links:





hey! trying it to rely on you guys for everything but it's tricky first time with this.
i have a LC and an old tacoma.
it looks to me like if i measure outside to outside it is like 50mm on the LC MC? or if i go inside to inside (?) it's like 46mm?
then on the tacoma - well it's about the same.
50mm is 1.96" but that adapter seems like it fits smaller than the OD at least?
is there a way to be sure it fits aside from actually fitting it?

IMG_8265.jpeg


IMG_8263.jpeg


IMG_8268.png


IMG_8269.png
 
The BA10 adapter fits correctly on the OEM (size) FZJ80 Master cylinder (OD under the lip is ~1.85" or ~47mm).

If any doubt call the company that manufactures the BA10 to ask, but IME and that of others, the BA10 is the correct part.
Ask them about the quick connector part also, I forget but IIRC a separate company may make that, the advantage is that
it is known to fit the BA10 snugly without leaks so you don't have to try something else that might fit, or not.
 
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