Installing new H55F and rebuilding transfer case (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jawjatek
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
I did not, and kind of a moot point now...
Ready to start mating the case to the new H55F tranny:
Pressed output stack together with newly-bushed gears and new bearings. On the left side you can see my bearing pusher: I cut the inner race out of the old bearing with a ziz wheel, and cut a slit in it so it would slide on and off. Used it on the press with a piece of pipe to seat the bearings. A SST, indeed.
I take time to stay organized and follow the FSM. Drives my buddy crazy, but I like to know what and where everything is, and how it all works.
Case halves are degreased, if not perfectly stain free. Replaced all the bushings, installed the threaded plug in the unused center bolt hole that is required when changing H42 to H55F (didn't get a pic, there are many already. I tapped the hole with 1/4" Pipe tap, and used a stainless allen head pipe plug from McMaster-Carr and gray RTV on the thread to plug it).
Installed the oiler cup and front case half:
Stuffed the gears:
Used a thin schmear of gear-oil RTV on both sides of gasket, and carefully mated the cases. I used some sticky gasket spray to hold the rear thrust washer on.
Cases are carefully mated, making sure the H-N-L arm is in the right spot. Bolts went back in from the cardboard template, with thread sealant, and were torqued to spec.
That is enough for the night. Will hit it again in the AM. Preload felt pretty good, will check with a torque meter. Wish the rebuild kit had the preload shims, it doesn't. If it needs a different one, hopefully the local Toyota dealer (or my main man beno) will have them Monday.
More later, going to bed!
Ready to start mating the case to the new H55F tranny:
Pressed output stack together with newly-bushed gears and new bearings. On the left side you can see my bearing pusher: I cut the inner race out of the old bearing with a ziz wheel, and cut a slit in it so it would slide on and off. Used it on the press with a piece of pipe to seat the bearings. A SST, indeed.
I take time to stay organized and follow the FSM. Drives my buddy crazy, but I like to know what and where everything is, and how it all works.
Case halves are degreased, if not perfectly stain free. Replaced all the bushings, installed the threaded plug in the unused center bolt hole that is required when changing H42 to H55F (didn't get a pic, there are many already. I tapped the hole with 1/4" Pipe tap, and used a stainless allen head pipe plug from McMaster-Carr and gray RTV on the thread to plug it).
Installed the oiler cup and front case half:
Stuffed the gears:
Used a thin schmear of gear-oil RTV on both sides of gasket, and carefully mated the cases. I used some sticky gasket spray to hold the rear thrust washer on.
Cases are carefully mated, making sure the H-N-L arm is in the right spot. Bolts went back in from the cardboard template, with thread sealant, and were torqued to spec.
That is enough for the night. Will hit it again in the AM. Preload felt pretty good, will check with a torque meter. Wish the rebuild kit had the preload shims, it doesn't. If it needs a different one, hopefully the local Toyota dealer (or my main man beno) will have them Monday.
More later, going to bed!
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Nice work!!!!!!!!!
Fwiw, I've never seen a rebuild kit for a split case that includes shims although the kits for the early cases do. I have a lot of the shims on hand so I'll try to remember to send a few out with the kits when I sell them.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Fwiw, I've never seen a rebuild kit for a split case that includes shims although the kits for the early cases do. I have a lot of the shims on hand so I'll try to remember to send a few out with the kits when I sell them.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
- Thread starter
- #44
Not complaining, I could have measured my shim on tear-down, and picked up a few when I got other parts, but it slipped my mind. Adding the gaskets made the preload too light with the shim that was in there, 4 in-lbs, which is too low. So I just got everything else ready, cleaned, tidied up under the truck, and cleaned some more. This truck is filthy with leaked engine oil and maybe PS fluid.
Almost ready for install.
Max says it is hot in jawja. It is.
My new favorite tool.
Going to try and track down shims at local Toyota dealers in the AM and finish this tomorrow.
Almost ready for install.
Max says it is hot in jawja. It is.
My new favorite tool.
Going to try and track down shims at local Toyota dealers in the AM and finish this tomorrow.
They are not going to have them.
You are going to be waiting a bit on those Joe. Unless you know the sizes you need and contact Georg and have him get them for you from his stash.
You are going to be waiting a bit on those Joe. Unless you know the sizes you need and contact Georg and have him get them for you from his stash.
- Thread starter
- #47
Right now I think I have a Mark 4, 0.4mm or 0.016" shim. It actually measures about .35 mm or 0.013" to me. This gives me 4 in*lb preload. Per FSM we want 13" - 21.4" lb, so I am thinking I need the next two sizes up, a size 5 or 6, to try.
Didn't know they were so hard to get.
Are these the Toyota PN for the shims?
0.5mm = 90564-70003
0.6mm = 90564-70004
If anyone has them I'll pay for FedX. They will fit in a letter/document envelope easily. Onur, is there anyone it ATL I can call you thing might have the shim? Thx.
Didn't know they were so hard to get.
Are these the Toyota PN for the shims?
0.5mm = 90564-70003
0.6mm = 90564-70004
If anyone has them I'll pay for FedX. They will fit in a letter/document envelope easily. Onur, is there anyone it ATL I can call you thing might have the shim? Thx.
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Call me in the morning and I will advise. My old store might have them in stock. I can also tell you if the depot has it.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Nice!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #52
So I had to drive a hundred miles round trip to get the shims, but that sure beats waiting days. I took my BMW and traffic was light.
Ended up using the #6 shim, .024", two sizes up from the #4 that was in there. Preload was measured 17 in*lb, after everything was torqued down.
I finished a couple things to complete the assembly: installed speedo gear, torqued and staked rear flange, then double checked everything - made sure I had yellow highlighter on all steps in the FSM.
Install time! I rolled the unit under the truck on the transmission jack:
I finished up by greasing the splines, clutch splines and pilot, and got the clutch fork in there with new boot. Then I began raising it up and getting it lined up.
The rest of the afternoon was a lesson in frustration trying to get the line right and get it to mate up. Finally, with some bold shoving and wiggling, it slid in all the way. I torqued in the 4 main bolts and started putting it all back together... slowly the parts and organized piles of nuts n/ bolts dwindled down. I didn't take any more pics as everything was straightforward. Tried to put the shifter in the H55F but it does not feel right and won't shift. I gave up, took it out, and will look at everything tomorrow. Probably something stupid. I called it quits around 11PM. I will finish the job tomorrow night after work.
To do: fill GL-4 in both units, re-install the drive shafts, get the H55F shifter in properly (I did the t-case shift and it shifts correctly) and reinstall the interior boots and knobs. This was a lot of work. Hope everything works perfectly so I don't have to fool with it for a loooong time.
Ended up using the #6 shim, .024", two sizes up from the #4 that was in there. Preload was measured 17 in*lb, after everything was torqued down.
I finished a couple things to complete the assembly: installed speedo gear, torqued and staked rear flange, then double checked everything - made sure I had yellow highlighter on all steps in the FSM.
Install time! I rolled the unit under the truck on the transmission jack:
I finished up by greasing the splines, clutch splines and pilot, and got the clutch fork in there with new boot. Then I began raising it up and getting it lined up.
The rest of the afternoon was a lesson in frustration trying to get the line right and get it to mate up. Finally, with some bold shoving and wiggling, it slid in all the way. I torqued in the 4 main bolts and started putting it all back together... slowly the parts and organized piles of nuts n/ bolts dwindled down. I didn't take any more pics as everything was straightforward. Tried to put the shifter in the H55F but it does not feel right and won't shift. I gave up, took it out, and will look at everything tomorrow. Probably something stupid. I called it quits around 11PM. I will finish the job tomorrow night after work.
To do: fill GL-4 in both units, re-install the drive shafts, get the H55F shifter in properly (I did the t-case shift and it shifts correctly) and reinstall the interior boots and knobs. This was a lot of work. Hope everything works perfectly so I don't have to fool with it for a loooong time.
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Good going!!!!!
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Pull it back out. Make sure the trans is in neutral. Then make sure the nylon cup at the end of the lever is "level" and not off to one side. It should slip right in.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Use a large screw driver and a flashlight.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
- Thread starter
- #59
The GA skies gave me a break for the last evening of this project, and a cool storm breeze was blowing for a nice change from the oppressive heat we have had for weeks in the South. Finished last few items, drive shafts, and filled the case and H55F with sta-lube GL-4 for now. Will probably run Red Line MT-90 after a break-in.
Finessed the shifter in place after a little poking around. Finally I tidied up, and took the truck down off the jack stands. Started her up and all felt good, pulled out of the garage, but I could only do a minimal test tonight. I was in my Tacoma, and have to be at work pretty early, so the plan is to get a ride back to my buddy's garage early tomorrow morning and take the 60 to work from there as a test drive.
I did go up to the dirt road and back real quick, in 4WD, and everything worked fine and felt butter-smooth. 4WD indicator and reverse lights worked fine. I think this job is in the bag!
Thanks to Georg at Valley Hybrids, beno for nearly all the parts, and all who posted. I'll let you know how the drive goes tomorrow.
Finessed the shifter in place after a little poking around. Finally I tidied up, and took the truck down off the jack stands. Started her up and all felt good, pulled out of the garage, but I could only do a minimal test tonight. I was in my Tacoma, and have to be at work pretty early, so the plan is to get a ride back to my buddy's garage early tomorrow morning and take the 60 to work from there as a test drive.
I did go up to the dirt road and back real quick, in 4WD, and everything worked fine and felt butter-smooth. 4WD indicator and reverse lights worked fine. I think this job is in the bag!
Thanks to Georg at Valley Hybrids, beno for nearly all the parts, and all who posted. I'll let you know how the drive goes tomorrow.
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- Thread starter
- #60
Drove the cruiser home this morning and it worked fine. I still had the boots out so it was loud on the road. Didn't hear any expensive sounds!
Guess I'm all done here. Thanks for reading!
PS In search of old style 5-speed knob.
Guess I'm all done here. Thanks for reading!
PS In search of old style 5-speed knob.
