Installing new H55F and rebuilding transfer case

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Georg:

I called and left a message. The low side does show more wear but is right at the max, I measure one at 1.576, and one at 1.575.

The bushing was not stuck on the shaft. It came off easily by hand, as it was split down one side.

The only way I can get this rebuilt this weekend is if I get those bushings and maybe a new shaft by Friday.
 
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Thanks! Does this fork look ***d to you?
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Tonight I got in a few more hours, cleaning parts, and replaced rear main engine seal, cleaned sludge from bell, installed machined flywheel and new Aisin Clutch kit. My fingernails are so black, it is gross. Sore, too. My cruiser is filthy! Every time I take something apart, I find more broken neglected things to fix. :clap: Slow and steady. Looks like my parts all won't be here this weekend, but there is lots of stuff to clean in the meantime. I am lucky to have a rust-free 60, and part of the reason is the heavy coat of leaked fluids on the bottom! :grinpimp:
 
My fork looks like that, drives fine though.
 
Looks like one leg of the retaining clip on your fork broke off. They're spring steel and that can happen. In a pinch you could run the fork but if you have access to another one, I'd replace it. I've got a good used fork for $25 plus shipping if you need it.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
Georg, I'll take it. Send it on. You should still have my info from yesterday. I need a new clutch fork boot as well if you have one. Shoot me a message or call.

Now I know that is why the fork fell out on the ground by itself when I yanked the tranny. The clip is supposed to hold it on the ball. Too bad I can't just fix the clip.
 
One could get a supply of that size of spring steel and bend it to fit, right?
 
I'll let you know the next time I pull my transmission ;)
 
Got my new bushings and output shaft from Georg today. Also my 2 Father's Day presents: Horror Fright 20 ton shop press, and new Milwaukee M18 3/8" cordless right angle impact wrench.

So tonight I'll be pressing together the new output stack. Need to go pick up some scrap metal, pipe pieces etc for press use from a friend's metal shop business, and some jack oil; HF jack was pretty low on fluid right out of the box. Then I'll be reassembling the transfer/tranny proper this weekend.

Still waiting on some misc parts so I prob won't get back on the road until next weekend.
 
Aw crap. Another problem. So the new bushings and rear output shaft came in today lickety split from Georg. I was pumped I was going to get the case assembled on the H55F this weekend, and took Monday off from work as well.

When I pressed one of the new bushings into the High gear, I noticed it stuck up into the two oil grooves (?) on the face of the gears. I compared a new one with the old. Should have done this first, but anyway they are significantly different. Hmmm...

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Looks like they are about 3/16" longer.
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So then I checked the fit on the new shaft - not going on, no friggin way. Too tight! I tried a little assertive tapping with a wooden hammer. This resulted in a gouged bushing. :bang:
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This prompted work stoppage and long distance calls.

My FJ60 is a Jan 1987 on the plate on door frame.
The transfer case facts:
serno 7A4478 (Jan "87)
38mm idler shaft
Input shaft: 19 spline
Input Gear: 32 tooth
Primary Idler: 43 tooth
Secondary Idler: 24 tooth
Hi-Speed Output Gear: 32 tooth
Low-Speed Output Gear: 41 tooth

Its possible, like I said before, that spider monkeys have rebuilt this case in the past. When I disassembled it, for example, I found it had no gaskets in the entire case, just black RTV on every seam, splines, and a lot of the bolts. But AFAIK there are no differences in the hi and low gears or bushings in this date range split case, so I'm thinking the gears are stock. Anyway, I need to figure out something fast, as I need to be out of my buddy's garage asap.

Edit: after exchanging texts with Georg, I am off to buy a brake hone in the AM. It seems you have to hone these (hopefully that gouge is not too bad and will hone out). So I learned something new. BTW the split in my old bushing was not a damage split - they are made that way. He also mentioned the bushing length was increased in replacements to address "canter" whatever that is. So I think if I hone these to the min oil clearance (?) I'll be good to go.
 
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Ok so the bushings are in and ready to hone in the AM. Georg says to use a brake hone and lube with ATF to keep from taking too much material off. The bushing material is relatively soft. I used a 36mm socket, carefully, to press them in, and split the extra length evenly between the gear end faces.
"Split the difference". Get it? :rimshot:

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Back on track, just need to borrow a hone. I've bought way too many new tools on this job, and felt like a tool once or twice myself.
 
Dang you're good...the hole in the old bush looks offset, while the new bush seems to have a centered hole.
 
jawjatek said:
Its possible, like I said before, that spider monkeys have rebuilt this case in the past. When I disassembled it, for example, I found it had no gaskets in the entire case,
Click to expand...

Yep, a spider monkey had already been inside your case. Toyota only used gaskets on the TFR. And that being the (case)... nothing can be taken for granted.
 
Went to NAPA and bought a brake hone kit that had 2" stones, and some ATF. Honed a bit at a time using a drill, cleaning stones often, until the gear slid on nicely. Then I wrapped 600 wet-dry paper around the hone and polished the bushings to a shine. I think I did ok. I sprayed well with degreaser to remove all traces of grit, and lubed up the shaft and gears. Ready to go in!

Thanks for your help Georg, and have fun at Rubicon!

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I think this completes all the parts work, so I am starting the re-assembly proper now. Happy! :clap:

PS I know the hi gear is on backwards - this was just a quick pose for a picture.
 
Those old bushings hang like sleeve of wizard. :grinpimp:

The old shaft will make a nice trot-line weight.

:beer::beer::beer:
 
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