Installing lift tomorrow... Quick TB question

[3D FJ]

Tomorrow, i will be installing my lift. I'm going over every bit of information before i head off to bed. I have a couple of questions though...

When i install my OME t-bars tomorrow, is there anything i should be aware of? Is it just a matter of putting the t-bar into the splines and just tightening things up/adjusting? I noticed that the OME t-bars have a marking on one end (a marking similar to one made if you were re-indexing the bars). Do these markings mean much for the initial install?

Also, when i install the t-bars, should i be applying step 5 from gunny's t-bar how-to instructions? I know his how-to is about re-indexing, but it seems to me that this might apply.

From the how-to:


STEP 5
5. What you now want to do is get a big cable tie and tie it nice and tight where you see the white line on the below picture, in doing so you are pushing the back housing for the torsion bar right up against the frame (white arrow). As a result the other end of the bracket will be pushed down all the way against the adjuster bolt (blue arrow). This is why you didn't take the adjuster bolt all the way out.

 

[paulbgardner]

Just read this thread a dozen times and do exactly what it says and you will be set.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/35588-100-ome-lift-write-up.html#post383741

I followed it word for word and it was a breeze. The most important part for me was identifying each component so I knew exactly what he was talking about. Spray some PB blaster or the like on there tonight so things come apart tomorrow a little easier.

Good luck!

 

[pfran42]

Hope you got the email I sent you. Don't freak out if both anchor arms are at different positions when you are through. This is perfectly normal!

 

[3D FJ]

Thanks for the link and thanks for the email. I've been pb blasting everything once or twice a week for the last 3/4 weeks. I think i'm ready. gonna read some more then off to bed.

I think paul's comment about the possible unevenness of the anchor arms is probably something i would have asked about tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[Gunney]

It’s much much easier than everyone thinks… trust me.

 

[2000UZJ]

It's much much easier than everyone thinks... trust me.

This is true. Except if your adjuster bolt seizes and crossthreaded itself and takes 8 hours to extract a 7" bolt that was cometely maxed out and making 2 people horribly sore and you can't budge it with a 4' breaker bar, and not to mention turning it .002MM every push with both legs , hitting it with everything you got and nothing... I will never forget that day.

9 days later I finished

 

[OregonLC]

If you're from NY, 90% of your project will be spent getting the old TB's off due to corrosion on the splines. Once off, the rest is a piece-o-pie. If you need to re-index you do it at the front end by sliding the mount toward the rear and rotating it a spline or two in the direction needed. Don't need to pull the whole bar out to re-index. Just make sure to grease up the splines really well before you put it back together. If you can get the parts to slide easily on the ground first it will hugely simplify the work under the truck.

As for getting the OEM ones out... heat and PB Blaster are your friend. Heat the mount, not the bar. You want the mount to expand. And if you haven't already been applying PB it might be a little late. Takes a while for the magic juice to penetrate.

 

[Layonnn]

Just to throw this out there for where i got stuck.

I had no idea how to get the rear bracket off of the torsion bar. I called up a couple of different shops (metal tech, Slee) and no one had a good answer. Finally, i just took a hammer and started tapping on it and this got it off pretty easily.

I'd highly recommend cleaning the splines and adding some grease to the splines before putting everything back together. This will aid in it fitting easier and prevent rust formation.

If you run into the problem 2000uzj had, since the bolt will be trashed anyways, i would just cut it in half with a sawzall, get everything removed and then work on getting that bolt out on a bench. Can get it out much easier that way (welding a new nut to it after cutting it off would be easiest if you have the means)

 

[3D FJ]

Just to throw this out there for where i got stuck.

I had no idea how to get the rear bracket off of the torsion bar. I called up a couple of different shops (metal tech, Slee) and no one had a good answer. Finally, i just took a hammer and started tapping on it and this got it off pretty easily.

I'd highly recommend cleaning the splines and adding some grease to the splines before putting everything back together. This will aid in it fitting easier and prevent rust formation.

If you run into the problem 2000uzj had, since the bolt will be trashed anyways, i would just cut it in half with a sawzall, get everything removed and then work on getting that bolt out on a bench. Can get it out much easier that way (welding a new nut to it after cutting it off would be easiest if you have the means)

You removed the rear bracket? The anchor arm? I thought that was supposed to stay on the truck. Even if you removed the anchor arm, there is still something that the t-bar passes through before the anchor arm so..... what am i missing?

Unless i cut out the metal below the t-bar in this pic, i don't see how removing the anchor arm will help if it is still attached the t-bar.

I've been pb blasting for the past three weeks. I didn't get to do the rear spring/shocks, the t-bars, or the diff drop yet. I was able to get the UCA's and the front shocks on so far. Today is when i actually try the t-bars.

 

[Supra88]

Anchor arm is attached to your front suspension. Remove both nuts and one bolt - the other bolt is captive. Slide the anchor arm off the splines towards the back of the rig so that it is on the TB shaft. Next, tap off the adjustment arm (what's in your picture) and voila the TB is out. There is no cutting required unless the splines are seized up ( ask me how I know).

 

[3D FJ]

Anchor arm is attached to your front suspension. Remove both nuts and one bolt - the other bolt is captive. Slide the anchor arm off the splines towards the back of the rig so that it is on the TB shaft. Next, tap off the adjustment arm (what's in your picture) and voila the TB is out. There is no cutting required unless the splines are seized up ( ask me how I know).

WOAH!!!. So This in the picture:

The anchor arm gets removed? In reading the how-to by gunny, i was under the impression that the adjusting bolt gets unscrewed til almost the end, but not all the way. What i'm reading now is that all the pieces associated with the t-bar (torque arm in front, t-bar, anchor arm swivel, anchor arm, anchor arm adjusting seat and bolt get removed? Please correct me if i'm wrong. I'm finishing work up early and i'm going to try and tackle this in a few hours.

Thanks to everyone here for their tips and advice.

 

[OregonLC]

WOAH!!!. So This in the picture:

The anchor arm gets removed? In reading the how-to by gunny, i was under the impression that the adjusting bolt gets unscrewed til almost the end, but not all the way. What i'm reading now is that all the pieces associated with the t-bar (torque arm in front, t-bar, anchor arm swivel, anchor arm, anchor arm adjusting seat and bolt get removed? Please correct me if i'm wrong. I'm finishing work up early and i'm going to try and tackle this in a few hours.

Thanks to everyone here for their tips and advice.

Just loosen B and once all the torque is off the t-bar a non-rusted spline will be allowed to slide back and forth. Slide first to the rear to disengage the front then let it drop below the LCA and slide forward and out.

 

[Supra88]

WOAH!!!. So This in the picture:

The anchor arm gets removed? In reading the how-to by gunny, i was under the impression that the adjusting bolt gets unscrewed til almost the end, but not all the way. What i'm reading now is that all the pieces associated with the t-bar (torque arm in front, t-bar, anchor arm swivel, anchor arm, anchor arm adjusting seat and bolt get removed? Please correct me if i'm wrong. I'm finishing work up early and i'm going to try and tackle this in a few hours.

Thanks to everyone here for their tips and advice.

In the case of reindexing you do not remove the adjustment arm. You are replacing, therefore you must remove. Not a big deal, unless you have corrosion. Yours look very clean.

 

[Supra88]

Here's what seized one looks like!

 

[3D FJ]

In the case of reindexing you do not remove the adjustment arm. You are replacing, therefore you must remove. Not a big deal, unless you have corrosion. Yours look very clean.

OH NO! hahaha. That's gunny's pic. Mine looks a bit similar though. well... Thanks everyone. Going home in a bit and will try to tackle this in about an hour. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

quick question though.... in the event that mine are rusted, can i cut the t-bar then hammer it one way then remove it the opposite way?

Another thing.... to loosen the adjusting bolt, can i use an impact wrench? I've heard no. Why?

 

[Supra88]

Yes - you can cut the TB if you have to. I had to. I used a cutting wheel on an angle grinder. I still couldn't separate them, nor could the machine shop I took it to. I ended up buying a new one. My rig lived in the salt belt for 11 years and I was still able to get 3 out of 4 splines out, so you should have no problem.

The FSM emphasizes to not use an impact. I wouldn't. You don't want to cross thread this bolt. Enjoy the work out with a 1/2" ratchet and possibly a breaker bar!

 

[3D FJ]

I'm in the process now. I was able to get the torque arm off and onto the thinner part of the t-bar. How the heck do i get the anchor arm and the t-bar separated? I can't exactly use a back action.... hmmm....... Help...

 

[3D FJ]

Brute FORCE!

 

[Supra88]

Back over the splines where it came from.

 

[3D FJ]

Whats the best thing to put on the splines before re-installing? Fluid film? grease?