installing c channels (2 Viewers)

[g-man]

Things start moving along a lot faster after the last rivet is out! Thank you lord. Can someone give me a beer or three?

Tomorrow...I'll patch the bottom frame on the passenger side, blow everything off with compressed air gun, slap some naval rust gel on, prep and paint the c channels, wash and clean up the frames. Prime and paint. Hopefully bolt the C channels back in. Then next day put the shackles and springs back on. Maybe a few more welds for good luck, Little bit more paint and done.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Looks awesome!

 

[g-man]

Looks awesome!

Thanks, I eased into this project knowing it was going to be a pain. Last couple of days was very physical. Sleeping good these last couple of nights. All down hill now.

 

[g-man]

Today I managed to get the C channels in place. I used locktite rust dissolver, its similar to naval jelly..pink stuff, brush it on, wash off. Then more wire brushing. Finally wiped down with some solvent and primer then paint. Yesterday I made sure I widened out all the holes. Today when I put the C channels in place I was really impressed with how well the holes lined up. There are two tight areas. First is the front bottom hole of the shackle mount coming really close to the rear bottom hole of the body mount(Circled in red). For these two bolts I turned them around so the heads were inside the c channel. Also the top rear bolt of the body mount comes really close to the cross member (also circled in red 2nd pic). For this again I turned the bolt to face out. I had to drive it through the hole with a punch because it was right up against the cross member. All the rest of the bolts I had facing inward. Some I had to omit a washer to grab the bolt with the nut. When bolting the cross member I had to just bolt it up with nuts and no washer or cut washer, then go back after everything was snug and remove the nut and add a cut washer. Best to put both C channels in place and the cross member before putting any bolts in. Also don't forget the two small holes in the drivers side are threaded and are there for the exhaust mount. A few times I looked at those smaller holes and the matching holes in the new C channel and thought about drilling them out. Glad I didn't. Here are some images including the close quarters of some of the holes. For those I used open wrenches on both ends to snug up.

 

[g-man]

and some more, and yes I will repaint. Most of the inner C channel got scratched up putting in the cross member.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Looks so amazing! Congrats on a job well done!

 

[g-man]

Looks so amazing! Congrats on a job well done!

Thanks Fel, hope your cam project goes as well.

 

[brownbear]

My cruiser never got the spare tire cross bar re-installed or the bumper cross bar/angle thing put back in. I ended up making a rear bumper instead out of 2 x 6 1/4 inch thick. I took 3/4 bar and ran it into the c-channels and thru the bumper. I'll post a picture later.

 

[g-man]

My cruiser never got the spare tire cross bar re-installed or the bumper cross bar/angle thing put back in. I ended up making a rear bumper instead out of 2 x 6 1/4 inch thick. I took 3/4 bar and ran it into the c-channels and thru the bumper. I'll post a picture later.

Nice. I just put a new 31 inch spare tire on ...I had the old R78-15 bridgestone on it before. Wonder how old that was. But 31" fits doesn't hang down to bad. Probably 4" higher than the pumpkin.

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

Thanks for this thread! I thought I was doinf it wrong, but turns out this job just f**king sucks. I'm about 4 hrs into it and have about 1/2 of the first side out. Hopefully mine turns out as good as yours.

 

[micruz60]

My cruiser never got the spare tire cross bar re-installed or the bumper cross bar/angle thing put back in. I ended up making a rear bumper instead out of 2 x 6 1/4 inch thick. I took 3/4 bar and ran it into the c-channels and thru the bumper. I'll post a picture later.

Cool solution, would like to see a pic?

I am dreading this job... Delaminating steel is a mess.

 

[Ian Crawford]

Thanks, @g-man ! Tackling this job over Thanksgiving, hopefully my family gets to spend (at least) some time with me!

Have chisels, BFHs, air hammer, beers and plasma cutter at the ready.

I plan to drop the fuel tank for clearance and safety then blow a hole through the center of each rivet with the plasma cutter and drive them out with the air chisel. Hoping it goes smooth!

Will try to keep a pictorial journal and add to my thread.

 

[Jdog]

Any recommendations on a good air hammer?

 

[Ian Crawford]

Can't go wrong with Ingersoll Rand. I have an old Kobalt one from Lowe's thats been doing fine with limited use... I've heard mixed reviews on them so I bought a backup (another Kobalt) last week just in case the first one dies. I caught it on sale for something like ~$30.

 

[MarkBC]

I drilled holes through the rivers but they're still stuck. I'll try some more with the air chisel next time.

 

[brownbear]

Its such a crappy job. As I mentioned its a not really skillful job but needs a lot of force.
Im not a fan of grinding that close to the tank too. When I did it, it was in my attached garage to my house. All I could think of was I was going to burn down my house....

 

[Ian Crawford]

@brownbear You weren't kidding. That was an awful job but it's done. I think the plasma made the job easier but a lot of blood, sweat and beers!

I added some more photos and details in my build thread if you guys want to see it. (link in signature).

Take your time, enlist the help of a strong friend and remove the gas tank to do this job. I'm happy to answer specific questions.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I drilled holes through the rivers but they're still stuck. I'll try some more with the air chisel next time.

Yeah you can’t just drill into the rivet unless your bit is the same size as the core between the heads. I’ve found using my dremel w/ a metal grinding stone I can shave off the head to the point that I can see the outline of the core then I can punch it out or pry the piece I’m trying to remove off. All depends on location. Dremel might take longer but it’s small and easy to get in tight spots. And the stones actually last long enough that it’s not too much of a waste of $$. Probably could buy bigger packages online too.

 

[Willard]

Looking at mine and how much space you have when I had the tank out, I believe removing the gas tank is the way to go on this repair.
Mine were good enough for now.....meaning I am doing this in the next 3 years. When it is time, I will drain the tank (easy enough to do even with a stock tank) and pull it. You then have all the room you need.
Pulling a stock or LRA tank is dead easy as well.

Either way the job sucks, is loud, sparks everywhere and dirty as hell.

 

[Jdog]

Good thread, just did mine.
Got an Ingersol Rand 118 max air hammer and was well worth the $105 on Amazon! Here are my learnings:
- this air hammer will pop rivet heads off in about 20 seconds
- rivets that only go through the frame and inner C will easily drive out with the air punch
- rivets that go through a bracket (body mount/spring hanger) Frane and then inner C can be driven out with air punch after I drilled about 1/8” to 3/16”