Inspection Advice for Used 200 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 31, 2019
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Location
Macon, GA
I'm currently searching for a used 200 series as an upgrade to my 100. I'm looking at 2009 model with 120k miles and in very good shape. Is there anything I should look for (other than the normal rust, maintenance records, etc) that is specific to the 200 series? I've owned three 100s but this will be my first 200. Any help is appreciated.
 
If you run a search here on Mud with your question, one thing that will come up is to check the square raised block on the radiator top for signs of a crack. Also, check to see if the windshield has been replaced. Bad jobs on that can cause electrical problems.
 
KDSS hex bolt rust on Land Cruiser. Should be OK if Carfax doesn't show significant years in rust belt areas.
 
Doesn't Toyota.com have a dealer maintenance log for vin #'s on line like Lexus?
 
The last one I bought (the one I have now), I just asked the servicing dealer to print out the service records. That might have been different since they were the original selling dealer and they took it back in trade, so they knew it's entire history?
 
The last one I bought (the one I have now), I just asked the servicing dealer to print out the service records. That might have been different since they were the original selling dealer and they took it back in trade, so they knew it's entire history?
Yes, not all dealers will do this, some citing privacy or other BS policies probably out of laziness.
Adding the VIN to your toyota or Lexus owners profile will get it done.

To the OP, this has been covered literally hundreds of times. Budget a few hours for some searching and browsing in this section.

My #1 piece of advice is avoid rust and major accidents. Literally everything else can be dealt with if it ends up being a problem.
 
In my search (I only looked at LXs) I looked at 2008-2013s. I looked at 4 or 5.

Expect some minor issues. Test everything you can. Everything.

My experience is based on LXs....

2011 - was from Canada, 120k miles (well, roughly, was in KMs). Had everything in KM and C... that I saw the gauges could not be easily reconfigured. Minot frame/suspension rust. Brakimg caused vehicle to pull to the right. Had a repetitive 'tick' u see load while driving. One rear seat would not fold back up. The drivers side center armrest didn't stay attached when sliding forward.

2013 - 90k miles. Dry rotted tires in back, good new tires in front. Missing 3rd row seats. Driver heated seat didnt work (they knew but didnt disclose until after I mentioned- they had attempt to fix and yanked all seat wiring out then just stuffed back in). Odd fading across front seats and 1 headlight (not a major issue, but had definitely sat in the sun in CA). Had what I can best describe as a "warble" going down the road. Guessing due to tires, but couldn't verify. There were a lot of wear marks and small gouges in the interior. Only 1 key.

2008 - 155k miles and total trash. They wanted a lot for it. Poorly painted black Toyota rims on all 4 bald tires. Interior was worn. Dents and scratches everywhere. AHC seriously struggled. Didn't even test drive or plug in Techstream. No idea about anything else.

2011 - needed tires (technically only the front, but I wanted all new matching). Passenger heated lower seat non functioning. Heated steering non functioning. Missing the rear entertainment remote. Only 1 key. 12v sliding cover wont stay closed. This is the one I purchased.



My point here is - there's going to be a variety of issues with the vehicles you look at and most likely nothing will be 100% unless fetching a higher price. Prices of the vehicles above were $22k-33k asking in Washington where going rates on landcruisers is higher.

Test drive and test everything you can. Know the vehicle better than the dealer when you go to negotiate.
 

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