Inside door handles

[ginmtb]

Are the padded handles stock? Need to do some research on that...

 

[handcannon]

Are the padded handles stock? Need to do some research on that...

By padded, do you mean with the plastic handle over the metal shaft? If so, yes. I have a 71 FJ40 that has remnants of the plastic still there.

Don

 

[ginmtb]

By padded, do you mean with the plastic handle over the metal shaft? If so, yes. I have a 71 FJ40 that has remnants of the plastic still there.

Don

Yes sorry I guess not padded but has that plastic handle you refer to. Thanks! Wonder if there is a close replacement out there. @Racer65 any potential for this?

 

[handcannon]

I'm not aware of any replacement handles. But, I have heard of some who have used short chunks of heater hose over the bare metal. Sounds kind of hillbilly, like me. I wonder if a bicycle hand grip could be made to fit over a piece of heater hose?

Don

 

[ginmtb]

I've been looking around for something that might work- it is tough since bike grips are for a round tube. I was thinking a chunk of plastic sculpted and drilled to fit that skinny lever might be the way to go. Seems like a lot of work for not much... But then again $75 for a set of non-OEM ones is a little crazy to get grips/handle covers.

 

[antFJ]

3d printer? Would work very well for this

 

[micdon]

http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/AcetalRod/Natural/12mm/

90 cents and you're more then halfway there

which ever option you choose.... post it

 

[ginmtb]

Can someone post some dimensions? I see it is somewhat triangular...

 

[antFJ]

You could get moldable plastic and form your own handle. It comes as little pellets and becomes moldable after you heat it up with a heat gun

 

[ginmtb]

Okay I did the fix works great:



I added a thin plastic washer between the handle and the plate to pick up the remaining slop and the plastic allows the handle to rotate smoothly.

Thanks again for posting this fix! Now I need to do the other one.

 

[handcannon]

I've been looking around for something that might work- it is tough since bike grips are for a round tube. I was thinking a chunk of plastic sculpted and drilled to fit that skinny lever might be the way to go. Seems like a lot of work for not much... But then again $75 for a set of non-OEM ones is a little crazy to get grips/handle covers.

I'm interested in whatever solution you come up with. I won't have time for a while to experiment with this, or do anything on the 40. Too many other projects that come first.

Don

 

[ginmtb]

I think I've come up with something that will work and look pretty good (and will probably have a bunch of leftover material to make a few additional sets). If I could get some measurements of existing grips that would help to confirm if what I'm thinking will be close...

 

[micdon]

if you can hang on till tomorrow, i'll get them for you.

 

[ginmtb]

Yup no worries just want to see if the material I'm thinking of using will work. Dimensions will determine that. Thanks a bunch!

 

[micdon]

As promised..

Not the nice AUTOCAD that some guys can create, but i think it'll do

The red bit is how the metal piece is situated in plastic bit. All the corners are seriously rounded off.

My handle was a bit thinner at the side of the door latch ( it tapered up, if that makes more sence) but i think that was due to normal wear

 

[ginmtb]

Wow is it that triangular? Here is an image of an OEM one.

Now this one is non-OEM (and for the back ambulance door but they sure look similar). I see some triangular shape there.

Can you please provide the top of the triangle width? It appears just a few mm's with rounded edges.

Thanks so much for that. So the question would be make it as close to OEM as possible or make it so it looks better than a piece of rubber hose? Is the original shape critical vs something that looks good but isn't the exact shape?

 

[micdon]

it's about 8 mm.

My drawing skills need attention...

 

[ginmtb]

Great thanks!

 

[ginmtb]

Okay so I still haven't started on the plastic handles, but I did do a modification on my fix above. The screw kept loosening with the turning of the handle so that wasn't going to work. At least how I wanted it to work. It was floppy like before.

Figured a nut and bolt would work but soon realized because of the little step in the rivet the handle could move side to side too much. So much so that it could miss the latching mechanism and not be able to open the door.

So stopped by my local hardware store and found the solution:

Works well and should not loosen up at all. Yes loses the stock look, but the firm handle is really nice.

Oh $0.26 for the spacer and $0.29 for the Mylar washer. M6 nut and bolt from my nut and bolt kit.

 

[cuencanolenny]

The aftermarket units most definitely rattle and it isn't just the piece noted above (I like the approach and have been considering something similar, but I don't have access to the plastic bushings down here), the plastic handle applied over the metal handle rattles also. I think I could mix up some epoxy and push it down into the joint and eliminate that rattle. Also on the aftermarket handle I have had to have a local machine shop fabricate a new catch bar. I don't know about the OEM units but the aftermarket is cast and it cracked in the relief where the actuator fits into it. The new one is machined from billet, is heavier and actually smoother. To the point where I think I will have him make me another one for the drivers door. For a quick and dirty rattle mitigator I have used the center of the cap on a coke bottle, the plastic screw on one. I drill a 5/16" hole in the center and then nibble off the cap to a flat washer. Then I snip a slot into not quite as wide as the hole and push it into place. There is a spring washer in there but it doesn't do much. Then again, there are a LOT of things that rattle in these old rigs. But I still keep chasing them.