Rolling rebuild and dumb questions (2 Viewers)

[micdon]

Good morning to all mudders,

after having raised some questions(AM I AN IDIOT?) and doing some soulsearching, I've bit the bullit and started the frame repair on the sponge.

The plan is to strip down to bare frame, weld and replace where required then send to be mediablasted and powdercoated. I thought about galvenising or "schoperen" bur the costs were what held me back. BTW schoperen is a dutch word for the proces wherby they shoot molten pellets of aluminium on the frame thus coating it in aluminium.

By creating this thread I hope to keep track and get a solid platform questions I am undoubtly going to have

"The shop"...thank you ED en LOEKI

How it sits after a day of hard work

And because we all like dogs. His name is frits and is the family guarddog

Rust repair on the body is going to have to wait until next year. First i'm going to have to restock the piggybank.
I'm hoping I can refit the frond fenders and the front grill, but most of it just fell to pieces by tapping it with a hammer. But I'm sure that most of you have been here before

 

[watrob]

Cost me $425.00 to get my chassis hot dipped in gal and that included all strip back of paint & rust remove via chemical clean first.

 

[micdon]

I had a couple of quote's but the best 1 was 280 $ for stripping and powder and 510$ incl the aluminium layer.

But the way I figure, as long as the frame outlives me it will be ok. Galvanizing is for if you want your grandkids to enjoy the cruiser as you did

 

[watrob]

My problem is the 40 lives up at the beach house, so gal gives me a equal footing to every other 40 series that gets used as a DD.

 

[micdon]

I agree that it does. And I would have liked to gal my frame also, but for now I can't justify(afford) the extra expence. Especially now that I need to source new fenders.

Sunday the teardown fun continues...

 

[micdon]

Okay,

first problem dismanteling the cruiser..
I'm down to disconnecting the parkingbrake, but I cant get the outputshaft nut off to remove the parking brake drum. The nut looks completely buggered. I'll post a picture next time I'm up there. But it looks banged on cut into and then staked with a tool. I unstaked it, but I can't get it to budge. Even with 4 wheel engaged, parkingbrake set and wheels choked I keep rolling the truck forward instead of loosening the nut.

Is it nescessary to remove the drum to disconnect the cables?
Is there anybody with tips or tricks how to get this done?

 

[Pighead]

Put the nuts back on the parking brake studs, lay a pry-bar on the nuts so that the end of the pry bar bumps into the frame or body as you turn the big nut...

 

[chappohj47]

That is what I had to do as we'll put a breaker bar through the studs to stop it turning over the engine

 

[micdon]

Put the nuts back on the parking brake studs, lay a pry-bar on the nuts so that the end of the pry bar bumps into the frame or body as you turn the big nut...

That is what I had to do as we'll put a breaker bar through the studs to stop it turning over the engine

Thank you both. I'm up there again on thursday together with a mate. Will try this next

 

[micdon]

Thanks to the tip, I got the nut off. Her's what it looks like

also note the LH shoe retainer....yes that is half a cotterpin. And I think I'm missing a spring??

 

[micdon]

So here is where I stand after 3 days..

The body is off the chassis

 

[micdon]

The engine is off chassis

Even the hoist we used is period correct

 

[micdon]

Here is the chassis cancer

The rest doesn't seem all bad. I'm guessing i need to replace the lower part of the rear bumper and both gussets. The rest of the chassis is still about 4mm thick but I need to take a closer look.
So far the bill isn't too bad:
-both front indicators (because I'm not drilling holes in my new fenders for those ugly things that are on there now)
-both tail lights, because they're rusted to sh*t
-parking brake internals and outputshaft nut
-both fenders
-a cr*p load of bolts.nuts and washers
-bodymountkit
-engine mounts

Time to start sourcing....

 

[micdon]

QUESTION:

Is there a difference in the parking brake assembly ftween the pre 1980's and post 1980's ???

 

[Pighead]

Yup..

Thanks to the tip, I got the nut off. Her's what it looks like

also note the LH shoe retainer....yes that is half a cotterpin. And I think I'm missing a spring??

 

[chappohj47]

Here's is a pic of my rebuilt parking brake

 

[watrob]

Have you replaced the seal yet?

 

[micdon]

Have you replaced the seal yet?

I thought about that. but since I haven't noticed a leak before I removed the drum and the haynes manual says to drain the t-case, I figured it was normal to have some oil come out after you've loosened the outputshaft nut. Ow and I didn't drain the case because I'm a smart-ass-know-it-all, who should more often listen to what he's told

 

[micdon]

View attachment 884592 Here's is a pic of my rebuilt parking brake

thanks for the picture. It does illustrate some issues nicely and explains why my p-brake doesn't function properly as well as brings up some other issues.

Does anyone know the deal on the bottom adjustment? Is it a manual adjustment? Or is it maxed out because my shoes are too worn?

 

[Pighead]

Replace that seal and put a LITTLE rtv (or similar) along the splines...