LOL, I thought you were running one of my original MAFs, not some some ghetto POS. Why do you hate your engine?
Injector Swap 1FZE to WRX
- Thread starter sknyfrnchguy
- Start date
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I don't hate it, I quite like my 4.6l Robbie built engine that has taken me all over the western US for many many years.... Hence why I turbo'd it instead of LS'ing it. Love the 1FZ platform.
I'm not using the ghetto housing, you do realize there are other company's that make MAF tubes right and iirc you had several iterations of "POS" housings that made quite a stir here on mud before landing on gen IV. I was referring to the ghetto MAF thread as proof that the 21010 should be a sensor that works in our trucks in a tube that is 2.89" ID. That has been proven to work with factory injectors and I've tried it with the wrx blues and it isn't working. I haven't exhausted all options diagnosing what's going on with that sensor yet. I do not believe that with the repinned connector for 21010 that on the torque app it should be showing 100% load at idle regardless of factory vs WRX injectors hence why I was asking if anyone had seen that before. I'm thinking a pin may have poor contact.
Thanks for the reply @frankenyota my fpr very well may be one of the issues I'm running into as I do have a wideband and see less than 10:1 at wot. I was trying to run the larger WRX blue injectors with a housing that has a 2.89" ID with sensor 22204-21010, I didn't just "throw them in there and hope for the best". 2.89" was the best I could find after digging around on mud and decided to give it a go. I'm going to dive more into the voltage and resistance across each pin tomorrow and see if there is anything blatantly wrong.
An engine with stock MAF, stock injectors and stock fuel pump when boosted runs really rich and pulls timing.
So you decided to not only increase the size of the injectors but mate them to an un-calibrated MAF housing.
So this delivers so much over fueling that the closed loop trim levels have to lean out the mixture by almost 40%.
This situation also skews the fuel trims used in open loop.
But hey, whats needed here is more fuel in the way of over whelming the fuel pressure regulator with a high output fuel pump.
Don't be surprised if you wash out the cylinder walls and burn up your engine.
So you decided to not only increase the size of the injectors but mate them to an un-calibrated MAF housing.
So this delivers so much over fueling that the closed loop trim levels have to lean out the mixture by almost 40%.
This situation also skews the fuel trims used in open loop.
But hey, whats needed here is more fuel in the way of over whelming the fuel pressure regulator with a high output fuel pump.
Don't be surprised if you wash out the cylinder walls and burn up your engine.
Good thing I kept all the factory bits! C'mon Rick where's the explorer attitude of finding more power out of these things, quite the pessimist today I see.
For anyone else trying to run larger wrx injectors I'm going to keep plugging away at this and see what I find and perhaps Rick is right and turbo, larger injectors and going down this route was stupid and everything should just stay stock forever because it wasn't designed to be messed with.... But where's the fun in that. I know it can be done and Rick clearly doesn't want to share anything helpful but I will when I find it!
The bandaids don’t seem to work very well. It may be time to do it right and put in a haltec
You're local, come drive it when it's happy
My wideband readings were at 10.1 which is as rich as it will read when l had the standard FPR and that’s why l went to adjustable reg, didn’t want to damage the engine. Fuel pressure was around 60 psi. The 1FZ seem to run very rich and is the reason you can turbo and get away with it up to a point. I also monitor fuel pressure, AFR’s, boost and coolant temp via a JRP gauge to pick up any issues. Maybe check your fuel pressure? I know l checked my AFM recently looking for an issue and priced a replacement which is very expensive here in Aus and liked the idea of going to the later sensor but for the cost for me to convert it to a land tank and postage from US it may be worth putting the money towards an ecu. The sensor is a lot cheaper than the factory AFM, what MAF housing are you using?
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Please post a picture of your adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
It has nothing to do with running a turbo or supercharger or what ever, its about properly metering the fuel delivery. Your torque app is telling you that the system is rich by 40% and your CEL is stating you are rich. Do you honestly think this is some kind of conspiracy?
No clearly its rich, my whole question which you have failed to understand because you didnt read my first post in this thread is why the maf was showing 100% load at idle and I was wondering if anyone else had seen this because you have to run an updated maf or a standalone to run the injectors. Today I confirmed it was do to poor pin connection with the new maf. Repinned it today and made sure I had good connection and load is closer to where it should be
Which FPR are you using now? I checked my fuel pressure when I first installed the turbo and pump and was right between the factory spec.
So the stumbling with your ghetto MAF has been resolved.
Turbo smart FPR800
All MAF tubes not made by landtank = ghetto
Thank you for clearing that up
Truck is drive able unlike before. Check your pins anyone that tries this in the future
Fuel trims still not quite right but I think I've got that sorted too... Will get to it hopefully in a week or so
@frankenyota thanks for posting that up, seems to be a popular choice down under
That was your label to distinguish between the factory MAF and the MAF tube that wasn’t working properly.
I tagged a thread that is titled "ghetto Fzj80 MAF housing upgrade!". Mine is not the same as the ghetto maf housing from that thread and never said it was, maybe read the full post?