Ignition switch broken...help?! (1 Viewer)

[onpoint01]

Wanted to share my experience with the broken ignition camshaft to hopefully save someone else the problems I ran into. First lesson learned was to read the entire thread and don't skim as I did.

The ignition shaft broke of course at the most inopportune time, why wouldn't it!!!

Saw some part numbers on this thread and then went to one of the many online toyota part retails to get the part number listed. The part number the site came up with for a 2001 cruiser was a 45280-60510 which I have seen on this thread. Purchased this ignition housing assembly from a local Toyota deal who could have it for me the next day. As mentioned you can not just buy the camshaft unless you try your luck on ebay.

So I purchased the 45280-60510 as the online search only provide this PN as an option. Went and picked up the part the next day from Toyota and came home to remove the camshaft as I didn't want to the mess with replacing the entire assembly. When I pulled the camshaft out of the assembly it did look a bit different in design from the removed broken unit, sorry didn't take a picture. Anyway, installed the new camshaft in the installed original housing and reinstalled the ignition switch. I proceeded to install the lock assembly and knew something was wrong because when I turned the ignition to start, nothing happening and the key wouldn't turn all the way off in order to removal of the key. So I pulled the camshaft back out and compared it against the broken one. The camshaft from the replacement assembly I just purchased for $280.00 appeared to have about a 1-2 degree rear shaft to ignition switch alignment difference from the broken one which doesn't indicate the correct position to the ignition switch.

So after fully reading this thread I see there was mention of a ignition housing assembly for a electronic tilt steering column and a manual steering column. The camshaft from PN housing assembly 45280-60510 (electronic tilt application) ignition housing assembly will not work in a manual tilt PN 45280-60460 ignition housing assembly. Not only are the camshafts different between the two assemblies, the housings themselves have different ignition switch index notches built into the metal housing. My guess is if you were to install the electronic tilt PN 45280-60510 into a manual tilt vehicle as well as change the plastic ignition switch, this should work although much more work than just replacing the camshaft.

Anyhow, two different assemblies- #1. for a electronic tilt steering column 45280-60510 and #2. for a manual tilt steering column 45280-60460. The Camshafts between the two are not interchangeable. Don't make the same mistake as I did and get the correct part for your application. If you don't know call your local Toyota dealer and provide them the VIN number when you order the part with them, I did not do this and gave the dealer the PN I though I knew to be correct.

 

[ranma21]

Wanted to share my experience with the broken ignition camshaft to hopefully save someone else the problems I ran into. First lesson learned was to read the entire thread and don't skim as I did.

The ignition shaft broke of course at the most inopportune time, why wouldn't it!!!

Saw some part numbers on this thread and then went to one of the many online toyota part retails to get the part number listed. The part number the site came up with for a 2001 cruiser was a 45280-60510 which I have seen on this thread. Purchased this ignition housing assembly from a local Toyota deal who could have it for me the next day. As mentioned you can not just buy the camshaft unless you try your luck on ebay.

So I purchased the 45280-60510 as the online search only provide this PN as an option. Went and picked up the part the next day from Toyota and came home to remove the camshaft as I didn't want to the mess with replacing the entire assembly. When I pulled the camshaft out of the assembly it did look a bit different in design from the removed broken unit, sorry didn't take a picture. Anyway, installed the new camshaft in the installed original housing and reinstalled the ignition switch. I proceeded to install the lock assembly and knew something was wrong because when I turned the ignition to start, nothing happening and the key wouldn't turn all the way off in order to removal of the key. So I pulled the camshaft back out and compared it against the broken one. The camshaft from the replacement assembly I just purchased for $280.00 appeared to have about a 1-2 degree rear shaft to ignition switch alignment difference from the broken one which doesn't indicate the correct position to the ignition switch.

So after fully reading this thread I see there was mention of a ignition housing assembly for a electronic tilt steering column and a manual steering column. The camshaft from PN housing assembly 45280-60510 (electronic tilt application) ignition housing assembly will not work in a manual tilt PN 45280-60460 ignition housing assembly. Not only are the camshafts different between the two assemblies, the housings themselves have different ignition switch index notches built into the metal housing. My guess is if you were to install the electronic tilt PN 45280-60510 into a manual tilt vehicle as well as change the plastic ignition switch, this should work although much more work than just replacing the camshaft.

Anyhow, two different assemblies- #1. for a electronic tilt steering column 45280-60510 and #2. for a manual tilt steering column 45280-60460. The Camshafts between the two are not interchangeable. Don't make the same mistake as I did and get the correct part for your application. If you don't know call your local Toyota dealer and provide them the VIN number when you order the part with them, I did not do this and gave the dealer the PN I though I knew to be correct.

View attachment 1922255

View attachment 1922256

Indeed there are 3 different part numbers for the 100. 98-02 LC and LX uses 2 different part number and 03 and up LC and LX uses another part number.

 

[reznunt]

Is this the correct rod for ignition switch
These and key break because key is forced while tenson on steering wheel. Had to teach my kids to turn steering wheel to release tension before turning key.

Just another data point but mine just snapped with a normal turn of the key with no tension on the steering wheel. The steering wheel was not locked either. It was about 38 degrees outside if that matters at all. 98 LC with 130K mi.

 

[2001LC]

Just another data point but mine just snapped with a normal turn of the key with no tension on the steering wheel. The steering wheel was not locked either. It was about 38 degrees outside if that matters at all. 98 LC with 130K mi.

Interesting. Were you the only one that ever turn the IG switch in it's 22 years?

 

[reznunt]

Interesting. Were you the only one that ever turn the IG switch in it's 22 years?

I see what you are saying, but the point at which it broke involved no stress on the steering wheel. You said "These and key break because key is forced while tenson on steering wheel" which states at the time of breakage there is tension on the wheel. Your comment does not speak of years of fatigue. If that's what you actually meant, then please disregard my post.

 

[2001LC]

I see what you are saying, but the point at which it broke involved no stress on the steering wheel. You said "These and key break because key is forced while tenson on steering wheel" which states at the time of breakage there is tension on the wheel. Your comment does not speak of years of fatigue. If that's what you actually meant, then please disregard my post.

I did state "while", so yes was speaking of break while tension on.
Yes, I was now pointing to fact it may have been weekend previously.

I was/am simple trying to ring the bell! "Release tension off the steering wheel and don't force the key" or it will break weakest point.. It's how most key shell break, keys are bent and IG shaft break.

One other issue I'll ring the bell on, is to much weight hanging on key chain. It is costly, in some LX470 to the tune of $1,500 to have Dealer fix. The weight prematurely wears out the tumbler. 00-02 LX tumbler with 2 cut key is a $700 list price.

 

[KillerBox]

After reading these horror stories, I purchased a new cylinder with a new rod from Toyota (part #45280-60510).

So is it easier to replace the whole cylinder or just to take the rod out of the new cylinder and put it in my old cylinder? As far as I know nothing is wrong with my old cylinder, I just didn't want to be stranded anywhere. Any videos on how to change the complete cylinder?

 

[Cahabacruiser]

Okay, I got the replacement rod and placed the brass pieces in correctly, I think? What position donyou place the plastic switch before inserting the new rod?

 

[Cahabacruiser]

Okay, I got the replacement rod and placed the brass pieces in correctly, I think? What position donyou place the plastic switch before inserting the new rod?

 

[Cahabacruiser]

View attachment 2594168

View attachment 2594168

I seemed to have lined everything up correctly but when trying to start the car, it completely shuts down all power. Once I disconnect battery and reconnect it comes back on until I try to start again. After trying a number of times to fish the rod in another way (like the video to have the brass side facing to four) I cannot get it in place. After trying this a number of times, I am not able to get the key out of ignition while cylinder is in place. I believe I am close but might have to take it to a shop. Thanks for any input.

 

[Cahabacruiser]

I fixed it, made a connecting rod out of 1/2" stainless. Wife says it feels more solid, less play than it ever did. I made the ends of the new part to fit snug in the plastic switch and the metal key-lock, and there probably isn't much flex going on with the stainless.

The rod is fat enough to keep the steering lock pawl out, so no more worry about that. Had to take the plastic switch off the end of the assembly, grab the end of the new part, and guide it into the key-lock as I slid the key-lock down into the barrel of the assembly. I posted this up at the end of the giant thread on this topic.
.
View attachment 1629204 View attachment 1629205 View attachment 1629206

That stainless rod you made is genius. I will look for the full thread of that but how did you make the ends fit so nice?

 

[scottm]

That stainless rod you made is genius. I will look for the full thread of that but how did you make the ends fit so nice?

I turned the ends down to the diameter matching the width of the original end tabs, then belt-sanded the tips flat to make tabs. Gradually sanded them more while test fitting until they were snug fit in the ignition parts.
.

Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

Working on this repair now, in a dark snowy parking lot at 15°F. Hoping to get it to start with a long screwdriver and drive it home. Had to drive home to read the rest of this thread, now I see my '03 has everything upside-down. I pried the white sensor off looking for the hole in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Battleship]

I turned the ends down to the diameter matching the width of the original end tabs, then belt-sanded the tips flat to make tabs. Gradually sanded them more while test fitting until they were snug fit in the ignition parts.
.

Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

Working on this repair now, in a dark snowy parking lot at 15°F. Hoping to get it to start with a long screwdriver and drive it home. Had to drive home to read the rest of this thread, now I see my '03 has everything upside-down. I pried the white sensor off looking for the hole in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Group buy.

 

[scottm]

Group buy.

I hold no patent, have at it. A CNC mill could turn out dozens quick enough.

 

[blinder52]

Wanted to share my experience with the broken ignition camshaft to hopefully save someone else the problems I ran into. First lesson learned was to read the entire thread and don't skim as I did.

The ignition shaft broke of course at the most inopportune time, why wouldn't it!!!

Saw some part numbers on this thread and then went to one of the many online toyota part retails to get the part number listed. The part number the site came up with for a 2001 cruiser was a 45280-60510 which I have seen on this thread. Purchased this ignition housing assembly from a local Toyota deal who could have it for me the next day. As mentioned you can not just buy the camshaft unless you try your luck on ebay.

So I purchased the 45280-60510 as the online search only provide this PN as an option. Went and picked up the part the next day from Toyota and came home to remove the camshaft as I didn't want to the mess with replacing the entire assembly. When I pulled the camshaft out of the assembly it did look a bit different in design from the removed broken unit, sorry didn't take a picture. Anyway, installed the new camshaft in the installed original housing and reinstalled the ignition switch. I proceeded to install the lock assembly and knew something was wrong because when I turned the ignition to start, nothing happening and the key wouldn't turn all the way off in order to removal of the key. So I pulled the camshaft back out and compared it against the broken one. The camshaft from the replacement assembly I just purchased for $280.00 appeared to have about a 1-2 degree rear shaft to ignition switch alignment difference from the broken one which doesn't indicate the correct position to the ignition switch.

So after fully reading this thread I see there was mention of a ignition housing assembly for a electronic tilt steering column and a manual steering column. The camshaft from PN housing assembly 45280-60510 (electronic tilt application) ignition housing assembly will not work in a manual tilt PN 45280-60460 ignition housing assembly. Not only are the camshafts different between the two assemblies, the housings themselves have different ignition switch index notches built into the metal housing. My guess is if you were to install the electronic tilt PN 45280-60510 into a manual tilt vehicle as well as change the plastic ignition switch, this should work although much more work than just replacing the camshaft.

Anyhow, two different assemblies- #1. for a electronic tilt steering column 45280-60510 and #2. for a manual tilt steering column 45280-60460. The Camshafts between the two are not interchangeable. Don't make the same mistake as I did and get the correct part for your application. If you don't know call your local Toyota dealer and provide them the VIN number when you order the part with them, I did not do this and gave the dealer the PN I though I knew to be correct.

View attachment 1922255

View attachment 1922256

I’m trying to determine if I have snapped my ignition rod or there is some other issue. Besides not starting the car, did the key feel any different? Mine feels/looks normal up through the ACC mode and has the resistance on the spring when you turn on to start but nothing more lights up and starter does connect.

 

[2001LC]

I’m trying to determine if I have snapped my ignition rod or there is some other issue. Besides not starting the car, did the key feel any different? Mine feels/looks normal up through the ACC mode and has the resistance on the spring when you turn on to start but nothing more lights up and starter does connect.

IG SW is not broken rod, if resistance felt while try to start.

If your dash lights light up, but dim as you turn IG SW to start. Then it "may" be the starter going bad. A week battery will act much the same.

If dash lights do not dim, it's most likely immobilizer, or transmission neutral lock-out. Try starting in Neural.

 

[blinder52]

Thank you!

 

[GoLakers]

I was finally able to complete the replacement of the ignition lock shaft today after many weeks of trying and waiting for the correct part from overseas. Removing the broken shaft was much easier after completely removing the plastic ignition switch at the back end of the shaft. No parts or ball fell off the plastic ignition switch. This switch is where the ignition shaft is inserted to engage the starter to start. I used angled picks to both push aside the springed lock mechanism in the cylinder and remove the shaft piece.

 

[dclc]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this post, I was able to fix this problem on my truck yesterday.

I used a lighted pick up tool/grabber to fetch the remaining piece of the shaft, maybe that would work for someone else. I didn't have much luck with an angle pick. I was able to pull the piece past the steering lock gate, the grip was good enough that it could push its own way through without using a screw driver to push it out of the way.

Cruiser Parts beat the lowest price I could find online, the whole unit from them was $179.00 and they shipped it overnight. Awesome service! shop.cruiserparts.net

Hope this helps someone else!

 

[cplstevendiaz]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this post, I was able to fix this problem on my truck yesterday.

I used a lighted pick up tool/grabber to fetch the remaining piece of the shaft, maybe that would work for someone else. I didn't have much luck with an angle pick. I was able to pull the piece past the steering lock gate, the grip was good enough that it could push its own way through without using a screw driver to push it out of the way.

Cruiser Parts beat the lowest price I could find online, the whole unit from them was $179.00 and they shipped it overnight. Awesome service! shop.cruiserparts.net

Hope this helps someone else!

Yes this is the part I’m stuck at. I ordered a grabber tool and hopefully that will help get it out. Angler tools wasn’t working for me either.