Ignition switch broken...help?! (1 Viewer)

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scottm

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Mar 27, 2003
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Below the Mackinac bridge
When I put the key in, it turns freely through the normal range without doing anything. The door chime sounds with the door open, but no mechanical resistance and nothing turns on. The steering wheel lowers with the key in like normal. The steering wheel isn't locked from turning with the key out. Wife says she felt something snap when she turned the key in the ignition, then nothing.

Any thoughts on what this could be?

How hard is it to replace an ignition switch? Is this switch coded to the car, or can I just get another used switch, or a new one, without having a dealer program it?

I should be able to pull it home since the steering is free, so at least I don't need to flatbed it.
 
I'm seeing these plastic switches when I google, looks like this would be behind the key lock. I suspect this has the electronics, and maybe the detents for the different positions. It would be nice if this is it and not too hard to get to, but ignition switches are usually pretty well armored to protect from thieves.
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Yes that is the switch that controls the power at various positions. The flat pointy device that is at the end of the the key barrel is probably is not working with the key.

This switch is NOT coded so any switch (most toyota's got the same) should work. Remove the battery negative terminal before you do anything. If you want to check what is bad, have the key in the ignition for the transponder to work and then remove the switch unit and with a flat head screwdriver you should be able to turn the switch into different positions manually. If you attach the ground back to the battery, you should be able to start the car just by turning the switch to start mode.


The key is simply there to unlock the steering.
 
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And the definitive thread on repairing it:

busted ignition

and a picture of probably what broke

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If the broken off part does not come out easy then do yourself a favor and just drill out the security bolts and replace them with regular allen heads.
 
Most of the parts I'm seeing specify up to 2002, I have a 2003. Is there a place to find the correct part for a 2003?
 
@ranma21 has the steering column bracket assembly in stock. 03-2007 #45280-60610.

Not sure if you can buy the rod separately.
 
I'm trying to read that huge thread about this, running low on time tonight. The LC is a couple miles away at my son's school, it is dark and snowing and quite cold. I understand it is possible to start and drive with the ignition switch out and key in, and turning the innards with a screwdriver. If I can drive it home to my garage, maybe drive it like that for a few days until I get a part, that will have to do. Not looking forward to another repair in a snowy parking lot, but sounds better than a towtruck.

Hopefully somewhere in that thread is the part number for my '03.
 
@ranma21 has the steering column bracket assembly in stock. 03-2007 #45280-60610.

Not sure if you can buy the rod separately.

Thanks for referring me Keowee, yup have it in stock ready to ship. =)
 
I bought the whole assembly from camelback toyota just for the lock rod. That part on amazon appears to be a toyota part made in japan. I would be cautious about using anything else. Not sure about the 05 models but on my 2000 model, one thread said not to remove the plastic part at the end of the ignition housing in order to remove the broken piece. after dicking around trying to remove the piece, i decided to remove it. easy peasy and wish i had done so earlier. broken piece fell out and reinstalled plastic piece in about 30 seconds. wish I had done that earlier as it would have saved me a lot of time.
 
I bought the whole assembly from camelback toyota just for the lock rod. That part on amazon appears to be a toyota part made in japan. I would be cautious about using anything else. Not sure about the 05 models but on my 2000 model, one thread said not to remove the plastic part at the end of the ignition housing in order to remove the broken piece. after dicking around trying to remove the piece, i decided to remove it. easy peasy and wish i had done so earlier. broken piece fell out and reinstalled plastic piece in about 30 seconds. wish I had done that earlier as it would have saved me a lot of time.
The part (locking rod) description states it was removed from the lock assembly- FWIW
 
I bought the whole assembly from camelback toyota just for the lock rod. That part on amazon appears to be a toyota part made in japan. I would be cautious about using anything else. Not sure about the 05 models but on my 2000 model, one thread said not to remove the plastic part at the end of the ignition housing in order to remove the broken piece. after dicking around trying to remove the piece, i decided to remove it. easy peasy and wish i had done so earlier. broken piece fell out and reinstalled plastic piece in about 30 seconds. wish I had done that earlier as it would have saved me a lot of time.
Time a million! The very tip of the connecting rod broke off in the plastic part, so I ended up pulling that out after fishing out the bigger part. The screws aren't hard to get to, the plastic part came out simply with no drama, and now I'm starting my car with a screwdriver as a man properly should do. I could have dropped that plastic part at the beginning and driven home, instead of working till midnight in a freezing, snowy parking lot.

This is how I'm driving it for now, going to start making a steel connecting rod after work.
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Yes, i wish i had seen that before i bought the whole assembly. I believe there are inferior replicas out there that need to be avoided.
More inferior than the pot metal factory part?:hillbilly:
 
I fixed it, made a connecting rod out of 1/2" stainless. Wife says it feels more solid, less play than it ever did. I made the ends of the new part to fit snug in the plastic switch and the metal key-lock, and there probably isn't much flex going on with the stainless.

The rod is fat enough to keep the steering lock pawl out, so no more worry about that. Had to take the plastic switch off the end of the assembly, grab the end of the new part, and guide it into the key-lock as I slid the key-lock down into the barrel of the assembly. I posted this up at the end of the giant thread on this topic.
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