Ignition on overnight and now won't start (1 Viewer)

[laddfj]

I have been working on some TPMS issues and apparently left the ignition in the on position overnight which fully drained the battery. After charging to battery, it now won't start. Does anyone know if leaving the ignition on will fry anything?

The first time I tried to start it, it did, but it surged a few times and then went off. The next few times it just did a quick start attempt as it normally would but didn't start. Now it gives a long crank, acts like it wants to start, but doesn't and then stops.

It almost sounds as if it isn't getting fuel. I have checked all the fuses but they all seem fine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[sdnative]

Immobilizer? Is the immobilizer light in the dash flashing?

(this is for later model years, but may also apply to yours. Check your owner's manual.

 

[laddfj]

Good suggestion. I reset the immobilizer system according to my manual which matches what you posted. It has now gone back to a quick crank and no start rather than a long crank. Not sure if it's related but it did change.

 

[laddfj]

I have run through in my head the past few days leading up to the no start and wanted to provide additional details in case they are related.

On Saturday, I pulled the 200 away from the garage so I could paint a few items in the garage. We have noticed a bit of a musty smell and I decided to dig into that and see if any of my connectors had corrosion. The lowest connector on the passenger side footwell had a small amount of corrosion so there has been moisture there. Everywhere else was clean. We have a few of the indicators there might be issues such as flickering tail light and twitching side mirrors, both sides. Pulled it apart and cleaned it up as best I could including spraying CRC electrical cleaner in there. Also put a dab of CRC dielectric grease in each pin area that had any corrosion and put it back together. Didn't solve any of the twitching or flickering but the car started and I pulled it back in front of the garage. I played with the TPMS Carista app a bit that night as well as looked through the programmable bits in Carista. Only changed one setting which was whether or not to turn on A/C when you hit Auto on the hvac system.

On Sunday, my wife drove it to church and back without issue. That night, I had noticed in all my reading that you are supposed to be able to open and close the windows with the remote. I went out and pressed the unlock button and held it, and sure enough, all the windows and the sunroof opened. However, when I pressed the lock button and held it, multiple times, they would not close. I went out to the vehicle and hit the start button twice and closed all the windows. Thought it odd you couldn't close all the windows with the remote. This is when I thought I might have left the ignition on and drained the battery. But now thinking about it more, that isn't possible because I didn't leave the remote in the car so walking away would have turned off the ignition.

Monday we didn't do anything with the car. Just sat in the driveway.

Tuesday, yesterday, my wife went out to drive the car and there was nothing. No lights, no dash lights, no clicking, nothing. When I got home from work, I immediately figured I had left it in ignition mode, as mentioned above, and threw a charger on it. Charger registered 12.0 and 0% charged. I left it on, charging at 30 amps for about 45 minutes and went out and check it. It now said 82%, which is really fast charging but it didn't register at that time. This is when the fun began with the no start as detailed in my original post.

This morning I went back into the Carista app to make sure there wasn't anything I had done that might impact the starting. I didn't find anything. Battery was getting low from all the attempts and starting so I threw the charger on and this time noticed the negative cable was loose on the battery. Tightened it up and tried to start it, but no go. Took both cables off and put the charger on to slow charged today while I am at work. Battery is a Toyota batter from 11/22.

Again, not sure if any of the details are related to the no start but wanted to throw it all out there just in case. One thing I am guessing is that the appearance of the dead battery was more likely the slightly loose negative battery cable and my putting the charger on it probably moved it enough to get a connection.

Again, any help or ideas are welcome. Eventually I will have to throw it on my trailer and take it to the same dealer that told me that my TPMS sensors for my alloys won't work in my steel wheels because the steel wheels cause interference to the signal since they are steel. Not excited about that prospect as they have little experience with LC's here in Billings MT.

 

[lx200inAR]

I have run through in my head the past few days leading up to the no start and wanted to provide additional details in case they are related.

On Saturday, I pulled the 200 away from the garage so I could paint a few items in the garage. We have noticed a bit of a musty smell and I decided to dig into that and see if any of my connectors had corrosion. The lowest connector on the passenger side footwell had a small amount of corrosion so there has been moisture there. Everywhere else was clean. We have a few of the indicators there might be issues such as flickering tail light and twitching side mirrors, both sides. Pulled it apart and cleaned it up as best I could including spraying CRC electrical cleaner in there. Also put a dab of CRC dielectric grease in each pin area that had any corrosion and put it back together. Didn't solve any of the twitching or flickering but the car started and I pulled it back in front of the garage. I played with the TPMS Carista app a bit that night as well as looked through the programmable bits in Carista. Only changed one setting which was whether or not to turn on A/C when you hit Auto on the hvac system.

On Sunday, my wife drove it to church and back without issue. That night, I had noticed in all my reading that you are supposed to be able to open and close the windows with the remote. I went out and pressed the unlock button and held it, and sure enough, all the windows and the sunroof opened. However, when I pressed the lock button and held it, multiple times, they would not close. I went out to the vehicle and hit the start button twice and closed all the windows. Thought it odd you couldn't close all the windows with the remote. This is when I thought I might have left the ignition on and drained the battery. But now thinking about it more, that isn't possible because I didn't leave the remote in the car so walking away would have turned off the ignition.

Monday we didn't do anything with the car. Just sat in the driveway.

Tuesday, yesterday, my wife went out to drive the car and there was nothing. No lights, no dash lights, no clicking, nothing. When I got home from work, I immediately figured I had left it in ignition mode, as mentioned above, and threw a charger on it. Charger registered 12.0 and 0% charged. I left it on, charging at 30 amps for about 45 minutes and went out and check it. It now said 82%, which is really fast charging but it didn't register at that time. This is when the fun began with the no start as detailed in my original post.

This morning I went back into the Carista app to make sure there wasn't anything I had done that might impact the starting. I didn't find anything. Battery was getting low from all the attempts and starting so I threw the charger on and this time noticed the negative cable was loose on the battery. Tightened it up and tried to start it, but no go. Took both cables off and put the charger on to slow charged today while I am at work. Battery is a Toyota batter from 11/22.

Again, not sure if any of the details are related to the no start but wanted to throw it all out there just in case. One thing I am guessing is that the appearance of the dead battery was more likely the slightly loose negative battery cable and my putting the charger on it probably moved it enough to get a connection.

Again, any help or ideas are welcome. Eventually I will have to throw it on my trailer and take it to the same dealer that told me that my TPMS sensors for my alloys won't work in my steel wheels because the steel wheels cause interference to the signal since they are steel. Not excited about that prospect as they have little experience with LC's here in Billings MT.

I would try a new battery or a jump start before i went crazy tracing anything else down. You might have ruined that battery and the 200 is very sensitive to faulty batteries.

 

[TeCKis300]

How many miles and what year is the cruiser?

There's so many electronics on 200-series, some of which are vulnerable to weak batts. It very well could be that the batteries low state of charge, or terminal, or both, precipitated another issue with the vehicle.

The ignition systems on these seem robust and I have yet to hear of a failure in that subsystem.

The fueling system has a couple vulnerabilities and based on your symptoms, I'd probably look the fuel pump and fuel pump ECU. I'd suspect the latter as these have been known to burn out. A low voltage situation further exascerbates it as electric motors are induction loads, which means they'll pull more amps if the voltage is not there to do the job. Potentially upwards of 30-50% more amps and associated heat, which is stressful on electronics.

As an aside, I replace the batteries on cars at the first sign of weakness as there are so many motors/inductive loads in these cars that it will stress electronics.

The quick start and fail attempt after resetting the ECU is normal.

On the long start attempts, do you smell fuel at the tail-pipe.

There's at least a few threads on fuel ECU driver failures on these boards. I can try to find later.

Might be worth trying to jump start with charger in place per @lx200inAR .

 

[laddfj]

Thanks for the replies. It will try a jump start tonight and see. If that doesnt work I will check exhaust for fuel smell.

2008 with 76,400 miles out of Los Angeles. One owner, old couple driven around town. Zero offroad.

 

[ace10]

When you say you "charged the battery," what did you do, specifically?

Do you have access to a voltmeter to get a read on the battery in its present state?

 

[laddfj]

The first time I put it on the charger, I set it to the 30amp charge and was surprised when it was at 82% in 45 min. I didn't charge it beyond that at that point as that was plenty to get it to crank. Leads me to believe it wasn't fully decharged but rather the negative terminal was not clamped down. Since I cranked it a number of times, it was getting low again.

Today I have it on a 3 amp charge until it goes to 100%. I do have a voltmeter and will check when I get home. After the first charge I was showing 12.6V after letting it sit for 20 minutes. Haven't checked the current state since I am at work and it is slow charging.

 

[KLF]

Just FYi...

You can only put the windows down from the remote. Not up. I think this may be a US thing.

And walking away from the truck with the fob in your pocket will not shut off the ignition.

Carry on, good luck.

 

[laddfj]

Doesn't seem to be the battery. Full charge. 12.74V. Tried to start with no help; jumper cables to my truck; charger and jumper cables. No difference with any attempts.

Can smell gas when trying to start, out of the exhaust.

Guess I will be driving my truck on our trip instead of the new 200. Bummer.

 

[sdnative]

Doesn't sound like a battery issue if you are getting solid cranking. I would be looking at fuel, ignition or possibly the EVAP system?

 

[laddfj]

Does anyone know if there is a way to test the immobiliser system? I have gone through the reset process but since I am smelling gas from the exhaust, I am leaning toward spark issues.

I am getting conflicting information about whether the immobiliser cuts the fuel or not and there is little information out there about the 200's immobiliser system specifically.

 

[Zill]

It’s a long shot, but during the process of cleaning up the electrical connections and applying some dielectric grease, you may have inadvertently created some pesky electrical gremlins. Would you be able to disconnect and reconnect the connections you touched in order to verify a solid connection is being made?

 

[laddfj]

Good suggestion Zill. I checked all the connections and they are good.

There is one other variable I am wondering about. As mentioned earlier, I have having TPMS issues including the TPMS light AND the warning code. Is there a chance the warning has disabled the car?

At this point I am calling a tow truck today and sending it to the dealer. Hopefully they can sort it out.

 

[sdnative]

Check all the fuses? Especially the ones in the engine bay (EFI?)

 

[laddfj]

Update. Finally got it back from the dealer. Cause of the no start was a bad fuel pump. I pushed back a bit before letting them charge me $1300 to replace it since I know I was smelling fuel when I cranked the motor but in the end I gave them the green light and it fixed it. They said it was very possible leaving the ignition on caused the issue.

Thanks again for all the input and things to try.