IFS travel gain

[subspd]

Please, I am not trying to start any wars with this post.
Are there any ways to fairly simply increase the travel on a IFS?
Could I trim my bumpstops? (thats what they are called right?) And still run 33's?

I understand that the standard diff drop and OME lift are the way to go but does that really increase travel? I understand that IFS is limited but can we gain an 1"?
I searched and came up with nothing...

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

It's a shame you should worry about starting a war.....I know where you're coming from though.

In the USA, I know of no such mod to add travel.

I have not tried to lessen the bump stop on my 100 because I can't with 35's.

The diff drop and OME don't add travel.

There's been some talk about another 0.5" in the Outback. Haven't seen details. IMO...adding a half an inch will result in very little added capabiity. Going to the N74L/863 combo will however.

 

[spressomon]

No (aside from John's .5" input from Aussie land). Do not grind or alter the down bump stop. You want to be very careful NOT to change the downward "bumpstop" to the A-Arms (in other words you DO NOT want the A-arm to be the down limiter in any circumstances)!

 

[subspd]

If you lift 2.5" and then add 2" (1" wheel spacers) of track width doesn't that mean that you have added some travel? because the wheel pivots further out? I could be smoking $#@! on this but I was looking at the Baja trucks and I understand that they all pivot much closer to center under the truck but the track is also very wide on the IFS is this a way to gain travel? (however little it may be)

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

If you lift 2.5" and then add 2" (1" wheel spacers) of track width doesn't that mean that you have added some travel? because the wheel pivots further out? I could be smoking $#@! on this but I was looking at the Baja trucks and I understand that they all pivot much closer to center under the truck but the track is also very wide on the IFS is this a way to gain travel? (however little it may be)

That works only on a live axle or an IFS that's doesn't keep the tire perpendicular to the road.

Our tires maintain their angle to the ground whether up or down and therefore having the tires out farther doesn't add to articulation.

 

[hoser]

Contact Total Chaos or one of the other custom suspension shops and wave money at them. They can build custom arms with high angle ball joints. Check out

http://www.chaosfab.com/

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Contact Total Chaos or one of the other custom suspension shops and wave money at them. They can build custom arms with high angle ball joints. Check out

http://www.chaosfab.com/

Ya, but is that a 100? It's got 6 lug nuts?

 

[FirstToy]

If you lift 2.5" and then add 2" (1" wheel spacers) of track width doesn't that mean that you have added some travel? because the wheel pivots further out? I could be smoking $#@! on this but I was looking at the Baja trucks and I understand that they all pivot much closer to center under the truck but the track is also very wide on the IFS is this a way to gain travel? (however little it may be)

You can gain travel on IFS this way. However, it would require alot of modification. It is called a IFS Long Travel Kit (unfortunately I have never seen anything avail for the 100).

This would require longer a-arms, cv's, etc... plus wider fenders to cover it. It is also a coilover application so there is alot involved there.

If there were a 100 series kit, it would be a viable alternative if you wanted to go big. Unfortunately, it's not there.

It is certainly possible (in the same way manned space flight is possible) but I'm sure this is way out of the realm of what you're thinking.

 

[FirstToy]

hoser, you read my mind

 

[hoser]

Ya, but is that a 100? It's got 6 lug nuts?

It's a Tundra. They also have kits for IFS Tacomas. Nothing for the 100 yet. Custom work welcomed.

 

[hoser]

This would require longer a-arms, cv's, etc... plus wider fenders to cover it. It is also a coilover application so there is alot involved there.

It seems to be the ball joint and then the shock as the next two limiting factors. We might be able to get by with just the custom upper A-arms (same length) and ball joints for a little better down travel but no added lift. The CV joints would only see those extreme angles occasionally... probably less angle than when the wheels are at full steering lock. Thoughts?

Sure it would be better to do the whole chebang but our pockets apparently aren't that deep.

 

[FirstToy]

hoser,

I think the CV's must be custom, longer pieces. Once you go w/ wider uca's and the TC lower control arm, the stock cv's will be too short to reach.

Also, you would know better than me, but I think the shock mount will have to be custom. You would be moving from torsion bar to coilover and need a new mount for the coilover.

Then, you will need to find the upper and lower limits (extension/droop) to find the appropriate coilover and bumpstop the limit for it.


edit- ok sorry hoser, re read your post. yes, if the uca was the same length as the 100's; the uniball could give you more articulation (meaning the ball joint would not be a limiting factor).

I don't know where the limitation ont he 100's suspension is, where the binding would occur but you certainly must becareful the CV's aren't the limiter!

 

[subspd]

Contact Total Chaos or one of the other custom suspension shops and wave money at them. They can build custom arms with high angle ball joints. Check out

http://www.chaosfab.com/

Yep that would do it! Awsome stuff there but out of my... wallet.
I wish I could just get an 1" more. Here in Mexico they have a love afair with speed bumps and the front take the brunt of the impact. And an 1" would go a long way to smoothing them out. Since I travel a lot I am trying to figure out how to make the suspension do more for me without making the ride any firmer. Roads here are crap.

 

[hoser]

I don't think you need more lift. You need better valved shocks and the least amount of unsprung weight. Stick with 16" wheels with tall and skinny tires. The skinny tires transmit less noise and road "imperfections." Go with the Bilsteins that everyone is ravin' about. I have Bilsteins on my other car... best damn ride of any sports car I've driven.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

That works only on a live axle or an IFS that's doesn't keep the tire perpendicular to the road.

Our tires maintain their angle to the ground whether up or down and therefore having the tires out farther doesn't add to articulation.

John, your wrong here, if you increase the A arm length by 10% travel will increase by 10%.

This is proved by the shock being aprox 50% out from the pivot point to the wheel, so it only moves 50% up and down of what the wheel moves.

The "unequal A arm" set up of the 100 also keeps the wheel closer to parellel, but the wheel does still chnage castor and camber as it travels up and down.

The A arm set up in the 100 can take a front shock 10mm longer, gaining aprox 20mm travel, but the ball joint tops out with any more, and this normally causes it to snap off when it does, which isnt good.

In the rear, we have for many years been using a shock which is alot longer than standard, which is a bolt in fit, with no bump stop mods, that increases travel by a couple of inches, and if you modify the top mount you can gain a couple more inches with spacer, and 4" longer shock.

How "easy" travel can be gained is dependent on the capabilities and skills you have to effect the chnages I guess.

 

[FirstToy]

darren, hoser, others,
If you used a uniball uca (effectively solving the problem of the OEM ball joint) and used a slightly longer shock, what would the limiting factor be? CV's? control arms hitting? or ??

I guess I'm asking if a uniball uca could give the orig. poster a bit more travel he is looking for.
and
what needs to be addressed to make it work

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

yes, you could, and with the diff drop, effectively the cv should handle another 1" of droop.

 

[FirstToy]

Well it sounds like throwing some scratch to Total Chaos for uca's would give the front end a nice articulation boost.

or if someone (Jasper) was micron-accurate w/ a cad mill, they could make some kick ass custom uniball uca's and get the front end of the 100 going. I can recommend a great test rig too

 

[subspd]

I love this forum! I swear someday I will add something of real value to this site... someday. What would it take to change the UCA to a uniball?

 

[FirstToy]

What would it take to change the UCA to a uniball?

It is a simple replacement of the stock uca w/ the Total Chaos (or other brand) uca. TC requires the mounting to be drilled out for a larger bolt.

Since anything for the 100 would be a custom project, you would have to contact TC for details.

If you had the 4R, Taco, FJC, Tundra than you could just buy it and slap it in. Unfortunately the 100 is unusual (torsion front susp, no uca's avail)

flesh out the details of what mods needs to be done while you're gaining info from TC. Cross the t's and dot the i's.