Ideas for improving the 2LTE (1 Viewer)

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And how would I adjust it? I turned up my fuel by turning the max fuel screw and adjusting the idle back down. Im not sure if it was the right way but it worked. lol
 
Good read guys! I feel more smarter already ;) I am still working out some of the bugs in my 2l custom turbo setup. I am getting a some black smoke at low rpms and when I shift at higher rpms. I might have to fuel cranked up a little too high.

What is this spill control valve?

There are two main versions of the L series, one is pre 1990, and one post 1990. Yours is the pre 1990. It is mechanical injection and has a rocker head cam setup. This thread is mostly about the late model electronic injection engine (the 2LTE). They are totally different to tune.

With yours, you need whats called a boost compensator. This will only add fuel once your turbo is producing boost. This keeps it from over fueling in the low rpms. Really increases efficiency (fuel economy) and is much better for the engine. The boost compensator is part of a new lid that can bolt onto the top of your injection pump. Try to find yourself one from a factory 2LT or another denso rotary pump that was on a turbo engine (like one of the mitsubishi's for example). I do have a complete pump from a mitsubishi 4D55t. i was going to fix it up in case i ever scrapped my electronics and put on a mechanical pump on my motor. I might be willing to part with it for cheap if you can't find anything.
 
There are two main versions of the L series, one is pre 1990, and one post 1990. Yours is the pre 1990. It is mechanical injection and has a rocker head cam setup. This thread is mostly about the late model electronic injection engine (the 2LTE). They are totally different to tune.

With yours, you need whats called a boost compensator. This will only add fuel once your turbo is producing boost. This keeps it from over fueling in the low rpms. Really increases efficiency (fuel economy) and is much better for the engine. The boost compensator is part of a new lid that can bolt onto the top of your injection pump. Try to find yourself one from a factory 2LT or another denso rotary pump that was on a turbo engine (like one of the mitsubishi's for example). I do have a complete pump from a mitsubishi 4D55t. i was going to fix it up in case i ever scrapped my electronics and put on a mechanical pump on my motor. I might be willing to part with it for cheap if you can't find anything.

I have an extra engine and a volkswagon IP that has the pretty much exact same pump as the 2l rotary, it is setup for a boost compensator. I might rob the top of that IP and swap it on mine. I think I have it setup right but? I think i have to turn my fuel down a tad. I went to the beach to load a yard of wet seaweed. On my way home the boost hit 17 psi in 4th gear. I think it likes a load.
 
And once I turned the fuel up, it seems to be chugging the fuel a bit more.
 
Sorry about the hijack, I can seem to get any feed back on my thread.
 
I have an extra engine and a volkswagon IP that has the pretty much exact same pump as the 2l rotary, it is setup for a boost compensator. I might rob the top of that IP and swap it on mine. I think I have it setup right but? I think i have to turn my fuel down a tad. I went to the beach to load a yard of wet seaweed. On my way home the boost hit 17 psi in 4th gear. I think it likes a load.

Even though the Denso and Bosch pumps are nearly identical, I'm not sure if the boost compensator's can be swapped or not. You'll have to look into it.

Boost is load dependant usually. So if you are working the motor hard in high gears you'll definitely see the high boost. 17psi is what I max out at. Engine seems to like it and it makes great power there.

And once I turned the fuel up, it seems to be chugging the fuel a bit more.

Power isn't free. But definitely if it's over fueling low down there is room for improvement.

Sorry about the hijack, I can seem to get any feed back on my thread.

No worries.
 
Hi Nick!

Wow I haven't been on this thread in ages. Before anything else, Merry Christmas to you all!

I'd like to ask you and the guys, have you ever checked the resistance values of your IP Speed sensor, TCV and spill valve? These are the figures I got on mine using a multimeter.

My IP speed sensor 150ohms (normal accdg to the manual 205-255ohms)
My Spill control valve 3ohms (normal accdg to the manual - 1-2ohms)
My Timer control valve 18ohms (normal accdg to the manual 10-14ohms)

Hope any of you could give me some feedback! Thank you in advance!

Regards,
Touie
 
Hi Nick!

Wow I haven't been on this thread in ages. Before anything else, Merry Christmas to you all!

I'd like to ask you and the guys, have you ever checked the resistance values of your IP Speed sensor, TCV and spill valve? These are the figures I got on mine using a multimeter.

My IP speed sensor 150ohms (normal accdg to the manual 205-255ohms)
My Spill control valve 3ohms (normal accdg to the manual - 1-2ohms)
My Timer control valve 18ohms (normal accdg to the manual 10-14ohms)

Hope any of you could give me some feedback! Thank you in advance!

Regards,
Touie

Hi Touie, Merry Christmas to you too! I've never checked those values on my injection pump to be honest! I'll see if I can dig up any info on them. Do you think there is something wrong with your pump? Although yours measure a bit out of spec, chances are they are actually fine. You will be getting 'check engine' codes if they are really out of line?

Cheers,
Nick
 
Hi Touie, Merry Christmas to you too! I've never checked those values on my injection pump to be honest! I'll see if I can dig up any info on them. Do you think there is something wrong with your pump? Although yours measure a bit out of spec, chances are they are actually fine. You will be getting 'check engine' codes if they are really out of line?

Cheers,
Nick

Thank you Nick for the response! Well The last bit issue i have is that the car's entire response slows down after 30mins or so after a cold start(right after a cold start the car feels like a V6). Some tell me that its possible that my speed sensor on the pump is acting up making the pump lean regardless of how much i turn up the spill valve. That is primarily why I went through the manual to check the resistances.

If it is indeed not my Injection Pump, I also plan to replace the speed and temp sensors of the transmission. Sourced those two parts from San Francisco as theyre not available here in Asia.(shared parts with a 1994 Gas previa).

I just noticed my speed sensor on my pump doesnt change resistance and is stuck at 150ohms regardless of engine temp which might not be normal? What do you think? I'm actually on the brink of gambling on a new IP... whew. Help! Haha.

Cheers,
Touie
 
About the drop in performance after 30 mins: I had a similar situation in my Hilux. (2L, not 2LTE.) It ended up being the vent in the fuel cap wasn't working. I noticed one day there was a "whoosh" sound when I would uncork the fuel cap. It might not be your problem but certainly could be something simple like this.
 
Thank you Nick for the response! Well The last bit issue i have is that the car's entire response slows down after 30mins or so after a cold start(right after a cold start the car feels like a V6). Some tell me that its possible that my speed sensor on the pump is acting up making the pump lean regardless of how much i turn up the spill valve. That is primarily why I went through the manual to check the resistances.

If it is indeed not my Injection Pump, I also plan to replace the speed and temp sensors of the transmission. Sourced those two parts from San Francisco as theyre not available here in Asia.(shared parts with a 1994 Gas previa).

I just noticed my speed sensor on my pump doesnt change resistance and is stuck at 150ohms regardless of engine temp which might not be normal? What do you think? I'm actually on the brink of gambling on a new IP... whew. Help! Haha.

Cheers,
Touie

My engine was a bit like that before I intercooled it. Basically the air from the turbo is very hot (especially if you have the boost turned up), and it starts to heat soak your motor as it warms up. This significantly reduces the efficiency and can feel like a power loss.

The other thing that could be happening, is if you are running boost near to the factory limit, the computer will start decreasing fuel. This starts happening even before the over boost engine light in the dash comes on. So sometimes by decreasing the boost a bit, you will actually get more consistent power. When your engine is hot, the air expands more and can cause the boost levels to be a little higher. It could be just enough that the computer starts reducing fuel. This is why I use a bleed off device on my boost sensor line. This way I can run much higher boost, but the computer thinks it is lower and ok.

The speed sensor of the pump is a digital sensor that compares the timing/position of the pump to that of the crankshaft sensor. It either works or it doesnt. It's a magnetic pick-up type sensor and has nothing to do with temperature. Your engine would not even run if the sensor was not working. It is fundamental to the operation of the engine.

If the speed sensor in your transmission was not working right, it would not even be shifting correctly. So I doubt that is a problem.

Don't get a new injection pump!! I think you are just dealing with tuning issues. Throwing money at it is not the answer. You just need to understand how the system works and how you can tune it properly. Maybe I'll try to write a 2LTE Tuning thread to explain exactly how to get more power out of these motors reliably.

On the first page of this thread is a movie that explains how the injection system works. You should try watching it to learn what all the sensors do etc.

Merry Christmas!

Nick
 
My engine was a bit like that before I intercooled it. Basically the air from the turbo is very hot (especially if you have the boost turned up), and it starts to heat soak your motor as it warms up. This significantly reduces the efficiency and can feel like a power loss.

The other thing that could be happening, is if you are running boost near to the factory limit, the computer will start decreasing fuel. This starts happening even before the over boost engine light in the dash comes on. So sometimes by decreasing the boost a bit, you will actually get more consistent power. When your engine is hot, the air expands more and can cause the boost levels to be a little higher. It could be just enough that the computer starts reducing fuel. This is why I use a bleed off device on my boost sensor line. This way I can run much higher boost, but the computer thinks it is lower and ok.

The speed sensor of the pump is a digital sensor that compares the timing/position of the pump to that of the crankshaft sensor. It either works or it doesnt. It's a magnetic pick-up type sensor and has nothing to do with temperature. Your engine would not even run if the sensor was not working. It is fundamental to the operation of the engine.

If the speed sensor in your transmission was not working right, it would not even be shifting correctly. So I doubt that is a problem.

Don't get a new injection pump!! I think you are just dealing with tuning issues. Throwing money at it is not the answer. You just need to understand how the system works and how you can tune it properly. Maybe I'll try to write a 2LTE Tuning thread to explain exactly how to get more power out of these motors reliably.

On the first page of this thread is a movie that explains how the injection system works. You should try watching it to learn what all the sensors do etc.

Merry Christmas!

Nick

Thank you Nick! That answers alot of my questions! Actually it is very strange because I have tried driving it under 40kph at night where it is nice an cool and the same symptom comes out. The acceleration deteriorates.

My current boost now is only 9psi.

Good to know re - speed sensor. Well I did get a code 6, 9 and 12 a few days back and when I aligned the pump markings the codes were corrected. But I have a feeling some codes are back because of the following.

A.) i tried going 90kph and letting go of the throttle entirely and letting it freewheel back to 40kph and my OD OFF started to blink.

B.) When Im on the highway, shifting from 1st to 3rd seems to be smooth but a split second after 3rd it shifts again and rpm goes down and if the highway is on a slightest incline like 1pct gradient, the speed would go down. I would need to floor the pedal to get the rpm back up to 3000 then it would shift back to 3rd then split second after again it would shift to the next and rpm would go down again. I have ordered the 3rd and last solenoid and will see if that solves that part.

I also asked a buddy of mine here who has the same vehicle to test the resistance of his speed sensor and his figures were up to spec that is why Im a bit skeptical re my IP. Also, the WAIC is in my radar too as I really refuse to replace this with a 1kz. I kind of fell in love with the 2LTE since I put alot of time and effort in it already like you. I just need to figure out this last bit and I'll be extremely happy as if I bought a brand new rebirth 76 with a 1HZ engine haha!

As for the video, yes I have watched it(and read everything on this thread).

Merry Christmas!
Touie
 
Flashing OD light indicates a transmission code. The bit about it shifting to 3rd then quickly "shifting again" could be your torque convertor lockup. If your kickdown cable is out of adjustment it could be making your transmission not work with your engine's power band, leading to you being in too tall a gear and experiencing poor acceleration as a result.

On my HDJ81 there's a diagnostic port on the firewall, you have to jump 2 pins and the dash will flash a code to your via the OD light, something like 3 slow 2 fast or whatever. With the code you can figure out the problem and how to correct it.
 
Thank you Ian!

Well what do you know, my woes are pretty much gone. I had my Tranny get on a dialysis where in a machine pumps in fresh ATF to push out all the old ATF even in the torque converter and my my what a difference. I can go 130kph at 3000rpm and feels like theres more to be pushed. Didnt want to push it as my EGTs were at 400deg Celcius and just want to be on the safe side.

Quick question about the spill valve - turning it in(counter clockwise) adds fuel? Or is it the other way around? Getting confused as
 
*continuation*

Nick said "in" in his how to setup a WAIC and clockwise in the Surf forum.

Thanks guys! Just prepping as I'm about to embark on the WAIC journey!

Cheers,
Touie
 
Thank you Ian!

Well what do you know, my woes are pretty much gone. I had my Tranny get on a dialysis where in a machine pumps in fresh ATF to push out all the old ATF even in the torque converter and my my what a difference. I can go 130kph at 3000rpm and feels like theres more to be pushed. Didnt want to push it as my EGTs were at 400deg Celcius and just want to be on the safe side.

Quick question about the spill valve - turning it in(counter clockwise) adds fuel? Or is it the other way around? Getting confused as

Great news!! Many of these poor transmissions don't see new ATF as often as they should, and I'm glad that fixed your problems. They are pretty tough though, so can take a beating and keep on going. There is a way to do a flush yourself also if you ever want to in the future. I did a write up in another thread; can copy and paste here if I can find it.

Mark your spill control valve before turning up the fuel so that you can return it to stock if you want. Only turn it 1/8th turn at a time. Be very very careful with your EGT's. I did not touch my fueling until after I'd intercooled and added a lot more air (boost). And beware, do NOT turn that screw in more than 3/4 turn, or you will get a run away diesel. I pushed the limits and it happened at 1 full turn. I had to reach down in there with the engine red-lined to turn it back out to be able to shut the motor off. Not fun. Yes, I believe in (clockwise) is more and out (counter clockwise) is less fuel. Makes an immense difference in power output. But can also wreck your engine if you are not careful. There is a little cap over the screw which you will have to pry off. The screw has a lock-nut which must be loosened off, and then tightened again once the adjustment is done.

Yes, please! Id read the s*** out of that thread :)

On holidays now, but I will do this write-up in the next week or two.
 
Hi Nick!

Here's another substantial update, so TT And E1 checks the transmission codes and not W and E1(basing it on a post in the surf forum).

So anyway, my OD OFF blinks 4 times then 2 times. That means code 42 correct? According to Toyota Generic OBD1 codes list it points to Vehicle Speed Sensor. I ordered the "speed sensor no. 2" which is the MAIN speed sensor that the 2LTE relies on which is attached to the tranny housing. But of course if you have a different interpretation of those codes please do go and shoot. Btw I also ordered a tranny temp sensor(dont worry am not throwing money at the 2LTE haha its just that Im stocking on these parts from the US as they are not available in Asia).

Regarding the spill valve, i believe i have turned it 1 full turn already at one point and I feel like its not doing anything. I did get a dyno last year and the reading did say i was running way too lean and thats why I dont know if it is safe for me to assume that a mechanic before probably turned it down? That I dont know. Again, its best for me to take it one step at a time and that is to correct this particular tranny code and address the acceleration issue as it still persists but again erratic.

Happy Holidays!

Touie
 
Hi Nick!

Here's another substantial update, so TT And E1 checks the transmission codes and not W and E1(basing it on a post in the surf forum).

So anyway, my OD OFF blinks 4 times then 2 times. That means code 42 correct? According to Toyota Generic OBD1 codes list it points to Vehicle Speed Sensor. I ordered the "speed sensor no. 2" which is the MAIN speed sensor that the 2LTE relies on which is attached to the tranny housing. But of course if you have a different interpretation of those codes please do go and shoot. Btw I also ordered a tranny temp sensor(dont worry am not throwing money at the 2LTE haha its just that Im stocking on these parts from the US as they are not available in Asia).

Regarding the spill valve, i believe i have turned it 1 full turn already at one point and I feel like its not doing anything. I did get a dyno last year and the reading did say i was running way too lean and thats why I dont know if it is safe for me to assume that a mechanic before probably turned it down? That I dont know. Again, its best for me to take it one step at a time and that is to correct this particular tranny code and address the acceleration issue as it still persists but again erratic.

Happy Holidays!

Touie

Sounds like you're tracking down your issues, one by one! Keep at it!
 

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