Ideas for improving the 2LTE (1 Viewer)

[LunarOverlander]

I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I bought a 2LT-E swapped '91 Pickup last year and fell in love with it enough to build a modern take on a Chinook/Sunrader onto it. Halfway through the process I had a catastrophic failure (valve drop) and because the new Cummins 2.8ISF crate wasn't out yet, I decided to have Radd Cruisers on Vancouver Island build me a new (as close to it) 2LT-E. It was arguably a less-than-savvy financial move but it will certainly be a good experiment since if the head cracks I have no one to blame but myself and the engine design.

The following changes have been made:

- Large aluminum radiator
- No EGR/emissions control
- 2.5 inch exhaust throughout to help it breathe
- Runs Evans waterless coolant
- Boost increased to 12PSI (no intercooler)
- Drive it by EGT gauge, not speedometer (never let the EGT get above ~1000F)

Here's a photo of the rig:

I'll keep this thread updated with any developments.

 

[raevenzero]

That's a good looking setup you have there!

 

[advlars]

That thing looks awesome! Build thread??

 

[rlopes]

Nick, excelent topic and info, very well fundamented and explained

Despite having a 2L-T in my Hilux, these infos (or most of them) apply to my engine. Good thing that I did not give up on it for a 1KD-FTV, it seems that we can extract some good power out of the 2L-T.

However, having read a lot about the 2L-T, I see mine is a bit different from the majority - it is an european 2L-T from 05-1998 to 08-2001, according to the Toyota EPC. My Hilux is a LN165L-PRMSXW. One of the things that I saw that was different straight-up is the intake crossover pipe - the "normal" 2L-T has two rubber connections, one to the turbocharger and one to the intake manifold, but this one doesn't, and has the turbo pressure sensor attached directly to the crossover pipe on the right via 2 screws. I'll see if the design of your throttle plate fits my intake manifold, as I will go WAIC thanks to your feedback and inspiration.

I am also going to completely remove the EGR system, maybe I'll gain some room to hide the intercooler, win-win - vehicle inspections and police are very sensitive to non-OEM things here in Portugal, which can get you a ticket almost for nothing. Good thing that they are not all engine specialists... Comparing my EGR system to a "normal" 2L-T, I see a lot of difference in the vacuum piping and it seems I have more VSVs, to be confirmed.

The main question is: do you know about this specific version of the 2L-T, and does someone have any experience obtaining more power from this engine?

Here are some pics:

Thanks!

Rui

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Nick, excelent topic and info, very well fundamented and explained

Despite having a 2L-T in my Hilux, these infos (or most of them) apply to my engine. Good thing that I did not give up on it for a 1KD-FTV, it seems that we can extract some good power out of the 2L-T.

However, having read a lot about the 2L-T, I see mine is a bit different from the majority - it is an european 2L-T from 05-1998 to 08-2001, according to the Toyota EPC. My Hilux is a LN165L-PRMSXW. One of the things that I saw that was different straight-up is the intake crossover pipe - the "normal" 2L-T has two rubber connections, one to the turbocharger and one to the intake manifold, but this one doesn't, and has the turbo pressure sensor attached directly to the crossover pipe on the right via 2 screws. I'll see if the design of your throttle plate fits my intake manifold, as I will go WAIC thanks to your feedback and inspiration.

I am also going to completely remove the EGR system, maybe I'll gain some room to hide the intercooler, win-win - vehicle inspections and police are very sensitive to non-OEM things here in Portugal, which can get you a ticket almost for nothing. Good thing that they are not all engine specialists... Comparing my EGR system to a "normal" 2L-T, I see a lot of difference in the vacuum piping and it seems I have more VSVs, to be confirmed.

The main question is: do you know about this specific version of the 2L-T, and does someone have any experience obtaining more power from this engine?

Thanks!

Rui

Hi Rui, that is a very nice 2L-T!! Many people don't know that the 2L-T was produced this long. These late model 2L-T's came with the upgraded cylinder head. I think they had a few other improvements such as a better thermostat housing, better cooling fan, etc.

Yours I believe is a mechanical injection engine as well. Many people prefer this style compared to the electronic injection. So really, you have one of the best 2L series engines out there.

I believe that all the electronics on your motor is primarily for managing the emissions system. So you can remove much of that without impacting the motor in a negative way. But you should find a service manual for your vehicle to confirm this. There is likely an emissions computer that controls the EGR system.

Getting more power out of your motor will be the same as for the other mechanical injection diesel engines with rotary injection pumps. Basically getting more air into the motor (boost controller), and then adjusting the boost compensator on the top of the injection pump accordingly. You should be able to gain some good power out of the motor. Especially if you intercool it. Really, a good intercooler is the key to more power. Otherwise more boost/fuel will just cause the motor to be stressed and run too hot.

Can you see the injection pump on your motor? Does it look like this? If so, it is definitely a mechanical injection setup. Which it should be if it's a 2L-T. The throttle sensor (and other sensors on the motor like the boost sensor) is used by the emissions computer only.

 

[rlopes]

That was the main reason for buying this specific truck - the less electronics, the better, easier to tamper with

I didn't take a picture of the pump (those pics are 2 weeks old), I'll try to take a decent one. But yes, I expect it to be mechanical.

Speaking about the service manual, I've searched and searched, and all I could find is the one for the previous 2L-T. Like that it's kinda hard to understand the function of each VSV. If you happen to find a decent manual, I guess I'll have to pay someone a beer someday Right now, the only source I have is the Toyota EPC, which has schematic drawings of my specific motor and the part numbers (and maybe names) - I may be able to trace all vacuum lines too understand what they are used for.

My objective right now is to completely remove the EGR system and make some blanking plates - kinda simplify the engine bay. Also, I'll need to investigate further if my motor has the small butterfly that is vacuum-controlled to soften engine shutdown - if possible, I'd like to maintain that.

I'll report back in a bit with some better pics.

Thanks!

Rui

 

[rlopes]

And here they are:

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

That was the main reason for buying this specific truck - the less electronics, the better, easier to tamper with

I didn't take a picture of the pump (those pics are 2 weeks old), I'll try to take a decent one. But yes, I expect it to be mechanical.

Speaking about the service manual, I've searched and searched, and all I could find is the one for the previous 2L-T. Like that it's kinda hard to understand the function of each VSV. If you happen to find a decent manual, I guess I'll have to pay someone a beer someday Right now, the only source I have is the Toyota EPC, which has schematic drawings of my specific motor and the part numbers (and maybe names) - I may be able to trace all vacuum lines too understand what they are used for.

My objective right now is to completely remove the EGR system and make some blanking plates - kinda simplify the engine bay. Also, I'll need to investigate further if my motor has the small butterfly that is vacuum-controlled to soften engine shutdown - if possible, I'd like to maintain that.

I'll report back in a bit with some better pics.

Thanks!

Rui

I think I might have come across the manual. I may even have it on my computer. I'll take a look when I get some time. Will let you know.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

@rlopes As it turns out, the engine manuals linked at the start of this thread are applicable to the LN165. Specifically RM582E. I noticed it does not cover the electronic emission system though. Perhaps that is part of the service manual for the whole vehicle.

 

[rlopes]

I've downloaded these manuals too but didn't find anything specific on the EGR subject. The RM582E has indeed some pages on the fuel pump that are specific for my engine. Back to the search then.

Also, I don't see from the outside anything restricting airflow or blocking the intake manifold, and my throttle cable connects directly to the injection pump, it actuates the TPS directly via the shaft that can be seen in my first pic of the pump. I thought I had the throttle plate to remove, maybe it's 2L-TE specific?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I've downloaded these manuals too but didn't find anything specific on the EGR subject. The RM582E has indeed some pages on the fuel pump that are specific for my engine. Back to the search then.

Also, I don't see from the outside anything restricting airflow or blocking the intake manifold, and my throttle cable connects directly to the injection pump, it actuates the TPS directly via the shaft that can be seen in my first pic of the pump. I thought I had the throttle plate to remove, maybe it's 2L-TE specific?

Yes, I believe the throttle plate thing is just for the 2LTE. Another plus for the 2LT!!

I'll search more for a manual with the emissions stuff. Will let you know what I find. I know I've come across it before.

 

[rlopes]

Thanks for your help

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for your help

No Prob. OK, so I found the site where the manuals for your truck used to be, but the site is down. Did some more searching, and I did come across the electrical schematics for your vehicle. Here is the link: ELECTRICAL.zip

Here is the page that I believe shows your emissions electrical schematic (from the EWD378F document):

I will keep hunting for more. But having the electrical schematic is a nice start.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

@rlopes Found the Chassis and Body Manuals for you too! CHASSIS&BODY.zip

Probably nothing on the emissions system there, but never hurts having manuals for your vehicle...

Found all that stuff here (FYI): Hilux Manual

 

[rlopes]

Knowledge is power. Thanks man!

Well, worst case scenario I'll just remove the main EGR components (need the space behind the engine for the WAIC) and leave the electronics alone. I guess those won't get in the way of some extra boost

 

[rlopes]

I've been studying those manuals, and I've found this:

After some time with a mechanic that is a good friend of mine, we found the VSV that supplies vacuum to the EGR system:

I've decided to go with just two blanking plates in the intake and exhaust - he told me that in annual vehicle inspections they do not hate intercoolers, so that leaves me with the option to fit something bigger, I'll look into the FrozenBoost ones, they have some interesting designs. I don't need to remove the EGR system, I'll put the WAIC to the left of the battery. Disabling the EGR will be the first step.

The second step will be a 65mm exhaust, routed where the OEM one is with the same bends. The objective will be something quiet to de not draw too much attention and preserve my hearing capabilities without sacrificing EGTs After some googling, I've found that the Aeroturbine AT2525XL might do the job. Nick, I see that you have one as well (maybe we ended up with the same feedback in search results?). What's your feedback on the resonated muffler? If you can upload a video that'd be great

The third step will be EGT and boost sensors and digital gauges. I'll go with Zada Tech ones, they have a nice controller box that connects to a 2-din radio (Kenwood Sat-Nav, yet to be bought), no need to drill holes in the truck. I'll order the controller prepared for IAT pre and post intercooler as well, to fit the sensors while installing the WAIC.

The fourth step will be a boost controller. With EGT and boost readings and a good flowing exhaust I can begin cranking up the boost.

The fifth step will be the WAIC system, something with the appropriate size to withstand 1 bar from the turbocharger as a final boost setting (or maybe a bit less, to do not destroy the CT20 too soon) and cool the air effectively, with a Bosch pump controlled by a relay that activates only when the engine is running (I did not search for such an electric feed yet). I want to keep my A/C system, so I don't know yet where to put the WAIC radiator.

The last step will be, if needed, fiddling with the boost compensator in the injection pump. Maybe reducing the top cover inner volume to cause faster diaphragm response. The objective is zero smoke. I'll have to study more for this one.

Sorry for the long post, but I may need to post some questions about the steps where I am least experienced - I see we have some pros here It will take some time, all these mods will cost some hundreds of euros, so I'll stick to this plan and do the mods in a logical order. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks,

Rui

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I've been studying those manuals, and I've found this:

After some time with a mechanic that is a good friend of mine, we found the VSV that supplies vacuum to the EGR system:

I've decided to go with just two blanking plates in the intake and exhaust - he told me that in annual vehicle inspections they do not hate intercoolers, so that leaves me with the option to fit something bigger, I'll look into the FrozenBoost ones, they have some interesting designs. I don't need to remove the EGR system, I'll put the WAIC to the left of the battery. Disabling the EGR will be the first step.

The second step will be a 65mm exhaust, routed where the OEM one is with the same bends. The objective will be something quiet to de not draw too much attention and preserve my hearing capabilities without sacrificing EGTs After some googling, I've found that the Aeroturbine AT2525XL might do the job. Nick, I see that you have one as well (maybe we ended up with the same feedback in search results?). What's your feedback on the resonated muffler? If you can upload a video that'd be great

The third step will be EGT and boost sensors and digital gauges. I'll go with Zada Tech ones, they have a nice controller box that connects to a 2-din radio (Kenwood Sat-Nav, yet to be bought), no need to drill holes in the truck. I'll order the controller prepared for IAT pre and post intercooler as well, to fit the sensors while installing the WAIC.

The fourth step will be a boost controller. With EGT and boost readings and a good flowing exhaust I can begin cranking up the boost.

The fifth step will be the WAIC system, something with the appropriate size to withstand 1 bar from the turbocharger as a final boost setting (or maybe a bit less, to do not destroy the CT20 too soon) and cool the air effectively, with a Bosch pump controlled by a relay that activates only when the engine is running (I did not search for such an electric feed yet). I want to keep my A/C system, so I don't know yet where to put the WAIC radiator.

The last step will be, if needed, fiddling with the boost compensator in the injection pump. Maybe reducing the top cover inner volume to cause faster diaphragm response. The objective is zero smoke. I'll have to study more for this one.

Sorry for the long post, but I may need to post some questions about the steps where I am least experienced - I see we have some pros here It will take some time, all these mods will cost some hundreds of euros, so I'll stick to this plan and do the mods in a logical order. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks,

Rui

Sounds like you have an excellent plan for it and are doing all the right things. Should improve longevity and power.

The blanking plates are all you really need for disabling the EGR. Removing the VSV's is not necessary, except that it can make the engine bay cleaner and easier to work in. With the vehicle inspections in your country, it sounds best to leave all these things in place however.

A properly setup intercooler makes such a huge difference to these motors. Really cools down the EGT's, and allows more power production by raising boost and adding more fuel. Definitely the key to more power for these motors. You can make significantly more power and still have cooler than OEM EGT temperatures.

65mm exhaust is a good investment. The 2525XL muffler will be quiet enough for you; especially if you follow the original exhaust route with your new pipe. A longer exhaust with more bends is always quieter. This is what I've done, and the exhaust is comfortably quiet. It does sound a bit deeper and more like a 'truck' than it did when I first bought it. I like this however. When I'm driving on the highway I cannot even hear the exhaust over the wind noise. I have a small crack in my exhaust near the tail pipe right now, so should fix that before making any videos.

Gauges are an excellent idea, especially before tuning for more boost/fuel down the road. The earlier you install them the better. It is a good idea to have an idea of how your engine has been running before you modify it. Then you'll have a before/after comparison as well.

CT20's are very tough little turbos. I've been running mine at 17-18psi for 5 years now with no problems. I hit 19psi sometimes also. There are a number of people who have run them at these levels with no issues that I've heard of. The turbo is a little large for the engine, which means the turbo is not working as hard as a smaller one would be. Usually the problems come from people not allowing sufficient cool down time before shutting off the engine. This can cause coking in the turbo journal as the oil there gets too hot. Always allow time for the turbo to cool down before shutting off the motor. This can be a couple minutes or more if you've just gone up a mountain pass for example. In the city 20-30 seconds is enough.

Learning how to tune the boost compensator is a bit tricky. I've helped my friend do this on his 1HDT. There are some good articles out there that explain how it works and what to do however. Just a matter of reading and carefully experimenting.

Good luck and let us know how it goes! Maybe start a project thread in the diesel section of the forum?

Cheers!

 

[rlopes]

Hi Nick,

About the project thread, I've thought about it, and was just looking to decide myself on some details, such as the muffler and WAIC positioning in the engina bay. Removing the EGR was only an option if I was forced to hide the WAIC, but I'll try my luck and put it where I have the most space and need the less intake routing possible, shorter intake pipes mean less distance for the air to travel and heat up again. Like this the EGR hardware stays and I'll just use the blanking plates.

A properly setup intercooler makes such a huge difference to these motors. Really cools down the EGT's, and allows more power production by raising boost and adding more fuel. Definitely the key to more power for these motors. You can make significantly more power and still have cooler than OEM EGT temperatures.

Exactly my line of thinking, and like you said, the sooner I put the gauges in, the better - I'll likely put them in before the larger exhaust, to see the stock EGTs I have and compare them after each mod. I'll need the gauges to determine the turbo cool down time too. I'll document everything properly in that to-do project thread.

Anyway, with your post you confirmed what I thought about the muffler, I'll try and go with the 2525XL, thanks again for your help So now I have decided on all the parts to buy and their order, next is making the build thread, when I have something to show you already. I'll definitely need your help in the fuel adjusting part, it's the only subject not yet clear in my head

Thanks,

Rui

 

[LN106]

I'm planning on adding a Turbo kit to my 3L shortly. I'm running water wetter in the coolant now and plan to move to waterless coolant when I change my timing belt next year. I noticed the intake manifold on my engine seems to be the same as the 2LTE rather than 3L's in Australia which intakes enter on the same side as the airbox. I'm guessing black cap on the intake manifold is covering something that was used with the Turbo system that isn't needed on the 3L. Wasn't sure if it was for a filter, sensor, EGR, or connected to the injector pump.

Would I need to address this capped line before adding a turbo kit? Right now there is a vacuum but I would assume any boost would blow the cap right off. Wasn't sure if it it needs to be sealed, routed somewhere, or I could use it for a boost gauge line.

 

[rlopes]

It's actually a good spot to connect a boost gauge