Ideas for improving the 2LTE (5 Viewers)

[raboyto2]

That looks like Fletcher Creek forest service road near woodbury by ainsworth. Am I correct??

It was by Ainsworth I remember. Fletcher creek doesnt ring a bell though. We just found a gravel road and followed it for a long long time.

- For technically advanced owners, there are correction resistors on the fuel pump that effect injection timing and volume. Read the manual I posted above to understand how these work. I cut the wires for the resistors at my ECU, and installed my own resistors (1/4W) to effectively advance the injection timing.

I've been planning on doing this for a while. Even made my own little "tunning box". When it gets a little warmer outside I will see what happens.

Also would like to add that installing an intercooler has really dropped the EGT's immensely.

Here is my thread, its just on a different forum.

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31802

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I've been planning on doing this for a while. Even made my own little "tunning box". When it gets a little warmer outside I will see what happens.

Also would like to add that installing an intercooler has really dropped the EGT's immensely.

Here is my thread, its just on a different forum.

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31802

Hey raboyto2, nice work on your tuning box! I made something very similar when I played around with the resistance values, and it worked great. Once I found a good setting, I put in permanent resistors.

I found a good way to tune the timing resistor is go up a big summit at full power and adjust it for best power and less knock while driving. Too much advance and power will be lost, too much retard and power will be lost. You've got to search for the sweet spot. I did the adjustment coming up out of Osoyoos BC heading east on Highway 3 with my Prado fully loaded. I had my wife adjust a potentiometer while I watched instruments and listened carefully.

The volume resistor can be tuned easier just by watching black smoke and EGTs, as well as seat of the pants.

I was surprised in the end that my resistor values were pretty close to the stock values, with timing advanced two factory equivalent resistor values.

I saw your intercooler thread on the surf forums a while back. Very nice work! And thanks for posting your results there. Some have said that the intercooler mod has the single biggest effect on EGT's for the 2lte and 1kz, and I am beginning to believe them when I read threads like yours. Can't wait to get my intercooler in now. Just need time...

 

[hybric4x4diesel]

EFI ip swap out to manual.

well we are trying to swap out the old & tiered IP with a rebuilt one & will see how it goes & will post up later when we got the time to do so.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

well we are trying to swap out the old & tiered IP with a rebuilt one & will see how it goes & will post up later when we got the time to do so.

Is this on your 3lte Prado? Where did you get the rebuilt IP? I look forward to hearing how it goes; thanks for posting.

I'd love to know more about your Prado and see more pictures. Yours is undoubtedly the most successful setup in Canada.

 

[Johnny5]

Hi all, I quite glad I stumble upon this thread. I though I had done all I could to my 2lte but am excited to try some of these mods.
So far I've only blocked the EGR so maybe I'll try to completely remove it. Does the engine shut off roughly without the butterfly valve?
I've got a manual boost controller and had it set to 12psi but I keep blowing my intercooler connections apart. I finally picked up a mig welder and have been welding some of the connections to get rid of some silicone. Problem is i'm getting a lot of oil through the turbo and it makes everything greasy. Just bought a moroso oil/air separator so hopefully that will help.
I'd be interested to hear more about the resistance changes to the IP if you guys are willing to elaborate.
Also haven't taken out the throttle plate and never noticed it so i'll have to take a closer look. Sounds like it makes a significant change.
Oh i've also added a delay on de-energization relay to the glow timer which has made startups wonderful. It's adjustable so I currently add 7 seconds to every glow.
Here' some pics of my intercooler. I used a subaru wrx intercooler with 2'' going and 2.5'' aluminium coming from the intercooler. It's a pretty tight fit but I got it all going down the right side. The subaru intercooler has a lot of extra bends in it's piping so I think I will try to find a intercooler with both holes on one side.



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[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi all, I quite glad I stumble upon this thread. I though I had done all I could to my 2lte but am excited to try some of these mods.
So far I've only blocked the EGR so maybe I'll try to completely remove it. Does the engine shut off roughly without the butterfly valve?
I've got a manual boost controller and had it set to 12psi but I keep blowing my intercooler connections apart. I finally picked up a mig welder and have been welding some of the connections to get rid of some silicone. Problem is i'm getting a lot of oil through the turbo and it makes everything greasy. Just bought a moroso oil/air separator so hopefully that will help.
I'd be interested to hear more about the resistance changes to the IP if you guys are willing to elaborate.
Also haven't taken out the throttle plate and never noticed it so i'll have to take a closer look. Sounds like it makes a significant change.
Oh i've also added a delay on de-energization relay to the glow timer which has made startups wonderful. It's adjustable so I currently add 7 seconds to every glow.
Here' some pics of my intercooler. I used a subaru wrx intercooler with 2'' going and 2.5'' aluminium coming from the intercooler. It's a pretty tight fit but I got it all going down the right side. The subaru intercooler has a lot of extra bends in it's piping so I think I will try to find a intercooler with both holes on one side.

Nice work! Thanks for posting here. Engine shut down does get a little rougher without the throttle plate, but personally it doesn't bother me at all. I don't even notice it now.

How did you add the 7 seconds to your glow timer? I'd like to do the same. I've got to cycle my timer a couple times in cold weather to get a smooth clean start. Would be nice to only have to do it once, and 7 seconds more is about right.

Good for you on the intercooler install. Did you find it made a big difference to EGT's? Big hills a lot easier now?

 

[Johnny5]

This is the timer module I used. http://www.aartech.ca/elk-960-elk-variable-delay-timer-module.html
I used a switched accessory power source for it's power and the tapped onto the hot control power going to the glow plug relay.

The intercooler made a huge difference on the EGT's. I would sometimes hit 1200 going uphill on the highway, now I might see 900.
What turbo are you going with?

Increase the boost to 12psi using an Ebay manual boost controller. More air means lower EGT's.

I'm pretty sure more PSI's will increase the air temperature. Compressed air creates heat and I read somewhere that for every 7psi you're adding 150 degrees F above ambient to the intake air.

 

[IanB]

I'm pretty sure more PSI's will increase the air temperature. Compressed air creates heat and I read somewhere that for every 7psi you're adding 150 degrees F above ambient to the intake air.

On a turbo diesel, a "rich" condition leads to high EGT's, by adding more air/boost, you lean the combustion charge out leading to cooler EGT's. While it's true that if you exceed the efficiency range of your turbo you are adding more heat needlessly, at the same time adding a bit more boost to the fuel you're already getting will bring down EGT's.

This applies to turbo diesel's only, gas engines blow up when they run lean, diesels blow up when they run rich.

 

[Johnny5]

Ok that makes sense.
Does anyone know where to find an adjustable bleed valve in Canada?
Or is that basically the same thing as the boost controller?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Ok that makes sense.
Does anyone know where to find an adjustable bleed valve in Canada?
Or is that basically the same thing as the boost controller?

I got mine used from one of the guys on the forum here. You could try calling around to industrial parts suppliers. You could also message pradocruzer on the forums here who was the one that developed this modification. The guy I bought mine from got his new as well, so he must know a source. He is yotahed on the forums. The part it's self is a Chelic ASC-150-02. Here is the spec on it: http://www.chelic.com/eng/products/SV/SC.php I'm sure there are other manufacturers that make the same sort of thing. If you don't mind spending a bit more, you could go to McMaster Carr and get something like 8642K12, or 8642K13 (enter in their search field). Seems like a similar part to the Chelic, but I can't confirm for sure.

This is the timer module I used. http://www.aartech.ca/elk-960-elk-variable-delay-timer-module.html
I used a switched accessory power source for it's power and the tapped onto the hot control power going to the glow plug relay.

The intercooler made a huge difference on the EGT's. I would sometimes hit 1200 going uphill on the highway, now I might see 900.
What turbo are you going with?

Thanks for the link to the timer module!

Nice to hear your experience with the Intercooler. It think if a person could rate the effect on EGT's of various modifications, a good intercooler has the single biggest impact.

I'm sticking with the stock turbo for now, as mine was rebuilt for big $$ just before I bought my LJ78, and is in excellent condition.

However, if I were to go with another turbo, I think I'd buy one of the modern Garrett turbochargers from a Mercedes or BMW diesel of around the same displacement (2.4-3.0l). Perhaps a GT2256V. There is a fellow on the forums with a 2lt making serious power with this family of turbo: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4458973&postcount=583 Not sure if he is talking wheel hp or crank hp. Lots of power either way though.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Got another PM that I thought I'd share here as there is some useful info for others:

These are much cheaper than the ones from McMaster. I think I might just get one of each and see if they work. How did you go about finding the "setting" for you valve?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sintered-Br...558?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item337766b7ee
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-ASC-06-...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item4850032703

I never even thought of good 'ol ebay, haha. Looks like you found a couple cheap units. Those will both probably work, however you might consider the 1/4" model, as that is the same as the Chelic one that we know works for sure: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pneumatic-A...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item484fff67b1 Also the nice thing about this model is the specs show it works from 0 pressure and up. Some of them appear to only work within a specific pressure range. Also it only flows in one direction which is what you want.

Basically the speed controller t's into the vacuum line right before the boost sensor. So the input to the speed controller goes to the vacuum line, and the output of the speed controller vents to atmosphere. Pradocruzer and I also installed a one way vacuum valve right before the speed controller, but I don't think it is totally necessary.

With the speed controller knob all the way clockwise, the valve is shut. To your boost sensor, this will look like factory operation. As you open the speed controller valve, you are allowing a little bit of boost to bleed off, thus the boost sensor sees less boost. This causes the EFI computer to add less fuel for a given amount of boost (air volume).

To tune properly, an EGT gauge helps. Also, make sure your engine is up to temp before doing this. Basically though, the goal is to have reasonable power with as low an EGT and as little smoke as possible. So just open up that valve a bit at a time while doing a test drive until you notice the engine losing power, then turn the valve back in a touch and you should be good. I played with mine for a couple of days before I was totally happy with it. The nice thing about this valve idea, is it only reduces EGT's from factory levels, it is impossible to actually increase the fuel this way. It is a totally safe way of tuning.

 

[jeamer]

Sorry about the late reply, I'm not much of a forum person (mostly just read them) so I didn't realize you replied!

I am at UVic as well (Geography) and have used the physics shop before too. What department are you in? I'd like to make the plates so I don't wreck the EGR system in case I need to pass aircare or something in the future!

Did you make templates (can I use em?) or just bring in your gaskets? Also, where did you get your aluminum from?

Finally, I'm curious about what you did on the intake side. It looks like you've got bolts on there. From what I remember when I did the head, there was only two nuts that went on threads that came off the intake manifold, and several other things slid on after the EGR pipe.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Sorry about the late reply, I'm not much of a forum person (mostly just read them) so I didn't realize you replied!

I am at UVic as well (Geography) and have used the physics shop before too. What department are you in? I'd like to make the plates so I don't wreck the EGR system in case I need to pass aircare or something in the future!

Did you make templates (can I use em?) or just bring in your gaskets? Also, where did you get your aluminum from?

Finally, I'm curious about what you did on the intake side. It looks like you've got bolts on there. From what I remember when I did the head, there was only two nuts that went on threads that came off the intake manifold, and several other things slid on after the EGR pipe.

Hey Jeamer. It's probably easiest if I just show you what I did. Call me at local 7714. I've got my LJ78 here today, but it'll be off the road the next couple weeks while I install an intercooler and new dump/exhaust. My name is Nick, I work in the Elliott building.

 

[raboyto2]

Sorry about the late reply, I'm not much of a forum person (mostly just read them) so I didn't realize you replied!

I am at UVic as well (Geography) and have used the physics shop before too. What department are you in? I'd like to make the plates so I don't wreck the EGR system in case I need to pass aircare or something in the future!

Did you make templates (can I use em?) or just bring in your gaskets? Also, where did you get your aluminum from?

Finally, I'm curious about what you did on the intake side. It looks like you've got bolts on there. From what I remember when I did the head, there was only two nuts that went on threads that came off the intake manifold, and several other things slid on after the EGR pipe.

If you like, I can email you DXF files of the block off plates.

I scanned them and had the plates cut out out of 3/8" mild steel on a water jet. You could also cut these out yourself, or take them somewhere where they have a plasma, or water jet etc.

 

[monke south]

Just got my EGT and boost gauges so now I can play with with the boost and increase the fuel a little and tune my LJ78 just right. But first all the instelation.

Chad Wells

 

[Kevin Rutherford]

Love B.C.

I love that valley. Cousin lives in Riondel, get there as often as I can.

I have also been using Redlines WaterWetter since I changed the head. I use it because it lowers the surface tension in the coolant, which reduces hot spots on the head by not allowing vapor bubbles to form as easy (vapor obviously doesn't transfer heat like coolant does).

Does it reduce overall coolant temperature? I dont see how as it should be at a specific temperature anyways, its just makes it more effective at removing heat from the metal surface. I hardly ever see my coolant temperature rise more than 88C (192F). There were a few times where under heavy load for extended periods it would rise to about 205-210F. I remember this one logging road in BC we drove up the side of a mountain for 2.5 hours to get to the top. It was about +32C that day, and we had it pretty weighed down. Even pushing it hard, it wouldnt go any higher than 210F. The view was worth it though.




I like the idea of Evans Coolant but two things made me not want to use it. One, it doesnt mix with anything else. On a road trip if you were to loose some coolant , you would need to flush it all out and go back to normal stuff (as its not available in many places). Its very very expensive so that would make me mad. The other thing that concerns me is its lower specific heat capacity. Water has the best cooling capacity as it can absorb the most heat per volume. Plain water is 4.2 J/kgK, but when its mixed 50/50 with ethylene glycol its about 3.7. Evans Coolant has a much lower heat capacity. When I was looking in the past I couldnt find a specific number. It means you need more of the coolant flowing over a certain spot to remove the same amount of heat.

One thing that I should add is that Evans coolant has such a high boiling point, you can run a pressure less system.

 

[Kevin Rutherford]

Ainsworth?

I was following the trails north of Ainsworth a few years ago & stopped to look at an abandoned mine. about a minute later a shot went off over my head. Lots of Grow-Ops there...
I now have a Surf with that engine, will be doing some of these mods soon...

It was by Ainsworth I remember. Fletcher creek doesnt ring a bell though. We just found a gravel road and followed it for a long long time.



I've been planning on doing this for a while. Even made my own little "tunning box". When it gets a little warmer outside I will see what happens.





Also would like to add that installing an intercooler has really dropped the EGT's immensely.

Here is my thread, its just on a different forum.

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31802

 

[Johnny5]

Just did this mod the other day. Used two 5kohm cermet pot resistors and a terminal strip. The resistors posts fit perfectly into the strip.
Went with 2.5v VRT and 2.0v VRP. Stock was 1.8v and 1.3v.
At first I didn't think much had happened but once the engine warmed up the performance increase is pretty incredible. Never thought my little 2.4 would have that much pull.

For anyone doing this on a 2L-TE the wire colors are blue with black, and black with red. I only used two post on the resistor but secured all three using the terminal strip.

 

[5A1618R]

Hi Everyone,

I just purchased a 91 hiace van with this engine and I have been researching the over-heating issue. Very happy to find this thread and will look into some of the easier mods. I'll post a few pics of the rig feel free to give me suggestions.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi Everyone,

I just purchased a 91 hiace van with this engine and I have been researching the over-heating issue. Very happy to find this thread and will look into some of the easier mods. I'll post a few pics of the rig feel free to give me suggestions.

Welcome to Ih8mud. Good luck with getting your engine to run cooler, and feel free to share if you discover any secrets.

I just finished putting a 2.5" mandrel exhaust right from the turbo dump pipe on my LJ78. I used a 2.5" aeroturbine muffler. I also honed out the dump pipe to maximize flow. This made a big difference in dropping EGT's (and indirectly water temp) on the highway. I have so much more head room before getting into the danger zone now.

I'm nearly finished a water/air intercooler system, and will report on it when I'm done. I anticipate it'll drop EGT's so much that I'll be able to turn the boost and fuel up significantly to actually make some more power. But only time will tell.