Icon install - 2005 LX470 (1 Viewer)

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I saw those, but was under the impression you were running slightly different 100-specific coils.

Nope.
The Slinky's are not really specific to the 80-series, other than the actual lifted height is probably a wee bit smaller when you put the same coils on a 100-series.
 
Slinkys: very interested in these. Reminds me of the parabolic springs for the 60's, but with better vendor support:beer:

Question: can one run airbags with the slinkys?

Sure can !

We find running the 2" lift bags they will be off te diff seat at ride height unloaded so dont effect ride quality on road, but work well as they become part of the compression spring rate as the car travels, and as it gets loaded.
 
Compression damping is adjustable on the stage 3's. 1 through 10 settings, soft to firm. Factory default equivalent to their non adjustables is 4. For daily driving I've settled on 5 up front and 4 in the rear. That's how I left it for this last Moab trip. It worked great. I imagine that running a heavier load (say full expo setup), one could benefit from running a higher setting. Also, if you were really getting after the high speed whoops you'd want to turn it up.
Well - You sold me on them, ordered the same setup from Drew at Just Differentials. Everything showed up by Friday! Will now need to go back thru your thread and get pointers on the install. Sweet!
 
I have just ordered stage 4 for my 100 series diesel here in Aus. This includes rear sway bar extensions and extended brake lines. The rears are piggy back style and the fronts remote reservoir.

Any further updates and some photos of fitment would be awesome.
 
In my 8 month experience, everything is great with the shocks. My only issue is they are a little soft when I am fully loaded and they are in the most firm position. But this is only when very loaded for a road trip. I also ordered a set of air bags for the rear to help with the heavy loads, I have them sitting here, just need to make a little time to install and test.
 
I have only fitted the rears at the moment. I have the stage 4 rears with the slinky coils for when I tow the camper trailer. The height at the rear guard has come up 40mm over ARB864s. I have now fitted the front UCAs and the car steers straight.
Waiting on the arrival of the front remote reservoirs.

For those that have fitted them previously, how hard is it to get that top washer on and then the nut! Right side I just used a standard washer, as I couldn't get the nut on when using the thick Icon washer.Wish the shaft was about 5mm longer.
 
Quick update on the Icons:

Late last week I discovered that my DS front shock was leaking, as evidenced by oily grime at the bottom of the shock boot. A closer look showed the inside of the boot and bottom of the shaft were oily. Definitely leaking. After pulling the shock I found that I was able to manually compress the shock by hand. This is after 10 months and ~10,000 miles, mostly daily driving in town, but with a couple off road excursions.
Icon was easy to contact on the phone, and they immediately recognized the failure as a warranty claim. The timing is pretty bad however, and it will be almost impossible to get the shock to Icon for a rebuild, back to me and back on the truck, before Cruise Moab. I've decided to have the shock locally rebuilt at my cost, with Icon shipping the service parts and oil to my local rebuilder on their dime.

I'm giving Icon a thumbs up for service here, although it would be nice for them to have a wider network of "official service reps" so that warranty work could be easily covered with better turn-around time. Despite them giving a fully covered (less one-way shippying) warranty rebuild, it's 100% my choice to pay for the quicker turn-around because I couldn't bring myself to show up at Cruise Moab with 3 Icons and one Old Man Emu on my rig. ;)

I will follow up with any notable details post-rebuild.
One minor note: The guy doing the rebuild remarked at how nice the shock shaft looked after 10k miles and a Utah winter. Benefit of running the shock booted.
 
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A couple of things. The rear shocks use the original Toyota locating washers top and bottom of the body mount. The fronts use no metal washers between the body mounts, just the Nolathane above and below.
The threads on the rear could be about 5 mm longer.
I used nyloc nuts instead of the two supplied nuts each side.
 
Re shock boot: I have heard (back in the day) that boots are not beneficial due to the fact that they do not let water drain away, thus increasing corrosion possibility.
 
After rebuilding all 4 x 2.5's after 60k, I found the first one takes a while (alright half-a day) and by the third it's an hour a shock. That included a full rebuild with lower mount spherical bearings (PITA). Tools required are a nitrogen pres gauge (Fox is easiest to use) , nitrogen bottle with hose & reg, spanner and homemade 1/4" t-handle for remote resi. I think tools were around $500 not including a vice. To drain, replace the shaft seal and assemble would take about an hour with the rebuild kit and shock oil on hand. Highly recommend having the tools because I don't know how anyone pulls and reinstalls one of these shocks without bleeding nitrogen. Always paying someone to change oil or replace a seal can get expensive fast. Or, at least here it's $200 a shock minimum.
 
Re shock boot: I have heard (back in the day) that boots are not beneficial due to the fact that they do not let water drain away, thus increasing corrosion possibility.
Yes, it's true you may get minor pitting. But if one flying a****** rock scores the shaft, you're loosing oil. Happened to me on the freeway (!) with Fox 2.0's. So which is worse? Icon does make a nice SS cover that solves both problems if your not on a budget.
 
I plan on equipping myself for diy shock rebuilds. This time around I'm paying to have it done. Going rate around here is $75 to $100 per shock. This one is $50 because Icon is providing parts and oil.


After rebuilding all 4 x 2.5's after 60k, I found the first one takes a while (alright half-a day) and by the third it's an hour a shock. That included a full rebuild with lower mount spherical bearings (PITA). Tools required are a nitrogen pres gauge (Fox is easiest to use) , nitrogen bottle with hose & reg, spanner and homemade 1/4" t-handle for remote resi. I think tools were around $500 not including a vice. To drain, replace the shaft seal and assemble would take about an hour with the rebuild kit and shock oil on hand. Highly recommend having the tools because I don't know how anyone pulls and reinstalls one of these shocks without bleeding nitrogen. Always paying someone to change oil or replace a seal can get expensive fast. Or, at least here it's $200 a shock minimum.
 

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