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Sorry I've gone quiet for a bit. Been really busy. I'll try to finalize a set of plans for a wood version. If I can I'll also draw a set of canvas parts. Using off the shelf parts is a great idea. I think the VW van canvas will be too small. Also it doesn't have a door in it. But it may be possible to find something pre-made that works - even if it's just half of a small tent that you cut apart. I'd have to start looking at some tents to see what's out there. If you have a sewing machine and some experience this isn't probably all that difficult to make yourself as an alternative.
I managed to score a pair of prinsu side rails, so i have been slowly considering how to do this. I bought them specifically to goof around with this idea. What I have come up with so far (ideas) is to basically make a front nose cone to fit the profile of the windshield and mate to the sides and front edge of the rack. I have an Alucab awning so I would like to be able to mount it on the side still. Using aluminum angle like 2x2 inch, .25 wall, you could make a frame for the top, and have a surface that would allow for the bulbseal to mate with. If you are not cutting a hole in the roof, then you would make basically a shallow box that would fit the matress.
On my particular setup the crossbars are 51 inches wide. But it would be possible to make the main box for the matress narrower to fit smaller racks. The front leading edge of the rack would need to be a bit wider to allow for room to have the hinge, and still be able to have a bulb seal.
View attachment 1784771
I just drew this up here while sitting at a bar in NV.
The blue piece is the angle that would be used as the mating surface for the bulbseal, as well as the place to rivet or bolt the tent material to.
The orange piece would be the box, or if the roof is to be cut, it would be the support surface for the matress platform which would either be a hinged or sectional design, (maybe a 3x3" .25 wall, angle frame)
The purple is the top, this could be thinner walled, maybe .125, and for simplicity, angle stock welded to a solid upper sheet. Unless you had access to a big ole brake. You could also have a small lip on the inside maybe 1 inch, and then stick the bulb seal on that, this would stiffen the upper lid more, but would be more labor intensive if bending the material.
Ive had other ideas, to have a double bulb seal mating on two different surfaces, but that adds more complexity, material and weight.
The black piece is supposed to be the side rail, either prinsu or bowfin.
I like the idea of having the side rails have he blue piece protruding over the top on the sides and back, because that would allow to flush mount some lights and even slightly recess certain items like smaller awnings.
They just need a slide and a ball pit and it would be complete.Where is this bar with that assortment of crayons? Im jealous
Yeah, I see what you mean about having it be more of an accessory. I am trying to make mine more permanent since I wouldnt mind cutting the roof if I had to.
Another thing I consider, is the abrasion of the aluminum. I have not read about any issues with any of the campteqs or AT Habitats. But being in the trucking industry, I see the damage it will do over time. On my trailer, the aluminum boxes will wear themselves out overtime from the dust and grit that gets between them and the bulb seals. As well and any rubbing with other or similar metals. But because my stuff gets alot more miles put on it, I think about these things.
Its also the reason I dont mind bolted together stuff vs welded. My Reitnouer Trailer is all bolted together, and is Rated for 105,000 spread out over the deck. Although Aluminum will fatigue over time, if properly engineered it will last a very long time. You just have to battle certain issues, like the abrasion, or the reaction between it and other metals.Good point. And it seems like nearly everthing in the freight hauling world is aluminum. The tech on the newer trailers I see coming to my powder coat shop to haul product is amazing
Ive strong interest. Happy to pay half to get started...and the balance for the finished product.1 Prototype - Telluride
2 1st production - Az (originally BC), Northern Ca
4 2nd production - Mr CampTeq, Texas? (Originally Wa sold in 1/2 hr on MUD) , Tenn., LCP
All have cut their roof but 1
On the 2nd production very little interest received
Featured at Overland Expo with a cut roof and non cut roof - no orders
With STRONG interest production run may be available ~$6500 pick up in AZ.
No need to cut your roof
Bump for a good price on a campteq. They are being made again but price has gone up! I wish you posted this a few weeks ago...Putting my Campteq up for sale. Used about ten times. My daughter, that I camped with, is livin the vanlife now so I just sleep inside and don't need this beast anymore. Wear and tear are pretty much zero on this thing. There are a couple bolts missing on the handles so your time and money replacing those could be $100 if you value your time pretty high. It's just the top with a 100w panel on top and some L-track mounted during construction. Inside is empty with a rail to mount your bed solution. I drive from the Stockton CA area down to LA once a month as well as SF on a different day every month. Haven't made a for sale ad yet, will get on it later today.
$6000 is where I'm starting out. Paid $6300. I think is a fair starting place since these things don't really wear out and they are pretty rare. Email is best Danielmwbg@live.com
Oh! At the time I got mine Yoteq was starting a colab with Campteq that never went anywhere. They slapped their stickers on there and that was the extent of their contribution.
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Bump for a good price on a campteq. They are being made again but price has gone up! I wish you posted this a few weeks ago...